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Everything posted by primeval

  1. Good points about the kilt - I was hoping for the slit to win out as that would be easier to do! I will be sure to post the finished result - still unsure about the runes on the horn, but maybe around the base they would fit well. Thanks for the input so far!
  2. I have seen a couple people mention using a white glaze over steel nmm - anybody use a yellow ink glaze over gold nmm? I am making my first attempt at gold NMM using Anne's recipe, and was just wondering how that would look.
  3. This is very early in the converison process - all I have done is replace his swords with the axe and shield (sculpting on a shield strap in the process). His legs were chopped off and will be repositioned so that he is gripping the rhino with his knees. His torso has been pinned to the rhino for stability. The rhino still needs to be cleaned up - lots of flash. Anyway, what I am after here is advice on the chainmail kilt I plan to sculpt for him. Should I make it all one piece and just have it kind of bunched up in front of him, or should I put a slit down the front so it falls to either side of the rhino's back? Also, I am toying with the idea of a light covering of greenstuff over the horn which I can then carve runes into, but I think the horn might be too slim for that to come across well. Any input would be appreciated!
  4. I like Reaper Burnt Orange, it is a more subdued orange. Gives a nice auburn look. I have a barbarian I am finishing up that uses this - should be in the show off section in a few days.
  5. Good point - I plan on going with NMM on this; I think you are right about just leaving it as is in that case. Not too worried about historical accuracy - I paint figures to fit into the mythos of Robert E. Howard (with some personal embellishments). Thanks for the reminder about the horns though - not sure if alot of people know that!
  6. This is a barbarian from The Island of Lost Minis - I cut off his axe and gave him a spiked mace from a Reaper weapons pack and sculpted the helm. I am just not sure if it looks ok as is or if I should try to add horns, antlers, or even just studs to the raised areas. Figured I would try to get some input while I am finishing the skin so I can make any additions before going much further if they are warranted. Thanks for looking!
  7. A Cat's Tounge is sort of a flat brush, but it has a rounded tip instead of straight. Gives more control when used. It works really well for basecoating as well as overbrushing, because the semi-point lets you get into nooks and cranies, and paint against edges that wouldn't work as well with a flat. Brights kind of work like in between a cat's tounge and a flat. Brights have a flat shape but shorter bristles, giving greater control. As far as the amount of paint and consistancy, it's kind of yes to both. You don't want your paint too thin, and you don't want too much on it, either. A little more than drybrushing, but less than for basecoating. Consistancy is kind of between right-out-of-the-bottle and thinned enough for basecoating. If it seems too runny, let it sit on your pallet for a little while, mix well and try again. The paint that wouldn't do what you wanted may work better after it "rests". The big thing here is just to practice. You will get a feel for how to load your brush, what consistancy to use, how best to stroke it on, etc., as you do it. Hey, anything worth doing is worth screwing up a few times until you can get it right. Oh, and Damon: Brush lickers, indeed. What, the chemicals going to your head? Shorter bristles sounds good - better control for this technique. Looks like I will be at Michael's after work today! Thanks for the info!
  8. Well, this is a reason I prefer doing it with a flat brush. It seems easier to keep the paint where I want it, as long as I use light strokes and give the brush a light wipe across a napkin or cloth first to lessen the amount of paint on the brush. It took some practice to get the brush control, but I do this for hair, fur, and even woodgrains and get a much cleaner look than drybrushing could give. I still go back to a fine detail brush for the final highlights though.
  9. Good technique (especially for hair) but I prefer to use flat brushes for this - they are pretty cheap at Michael's and I get good life out of them since I don't use them as heavily.
  10. Vallejo has a white glaze. I quite like it for smoothing out blends on white Hi Jenova - Do you have an example of a figure you used the white ink on?
  11. I have found several different Pelikan white ink products - which one do you use? Thanks! Oops - it would seem the "other products" were not inks. The drawing ink is what you use? Sounds like the white ink would be nice to glaze over NMM.
  12. OK, so I have looked through this thread but I can't see anything that leads to what your talking about here.......am I simply looking in the wrong place? Cheers, Julie http://www3.sympatico.ca/jleblanc012/etape-nmm.jpg This has a graphic of Arkaal's NMM recipe.
  13. So along the lines of miniatures for Conan, who would you like to see sculpt them? I would love to see Mark Copplestone, Kev White, Bobby Jackson, or David Soderquist do them. Marek on CMON is also quite good at barbarians and has done one barbarian miniature for Assassin that he based on an Estaban Maroto drawing that is quite good.
  14. Queen of the Black Coast is my favorite Conan story, and Belit is a favorite character too. Interestingly, if you pay close attention, you will realize that she is never described as wielding a weapon at all. Even when she returns from beyond death to protect Conan, she is described as simply thrusting toward the beast (I love the illustration in the book for that, but the sword is never mentioned).
  15. Well, the game isn't meant for people who want to play dwarves and elves :). The only time I was ever able to enjoy a Conan RPG campaign in the past was a small group that played GURPS and everyone had an appreciation for Conan. Once we let some others play that didn't have any knowledge of Conan, it was ruined.
  16. I agree - that's why I waited for the paperback of The Coming Of Conan. I think the Bran Mak Morn paperback is due in 2005. I hope they do a Kull one as well, but I do have the old Donald Grant Kull that is the original unedited texts anyway. More on the subject of the RPG, it would be nice to see an official line of Conan miniatures using characters from Howard's stories.
  17. The Bran Mak Morn book is going to eventually be put out as a paperback like The Coming Of Conan, but there is a version of the hardback that also comes with a cd with a dramatic reading of Worms of the Earth - I think it is over $100 though. Amazon.com lists the Conan RPG at around $35, but I like to suppport the local shop, so I may fork over the full $50.
  18. Ok, I was wrong - the book is shipping now and should be available next week according to this post by Mongoose on their forums. It also contains an overview of the book. Now if I can find anyone who doesn't equate Conan with Arnold and Milius I might try roleplaying again... http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/phpBB2/v...opic.php?t=1039
  19. I know I read somewhere in the last few days that the Mongoose D20 Conan is supposed to be released on January 28th, but now I can't find where I read that, so perhaps it is wishful thinking.
  20. Well, one example that springs to mind of a change that seems pointless is the changing of the capitol of Aquilonia from Howard's Tamar to DeCamp's Tarantia. I believe I read somewhere that DeCamp would often change names if he thought they were too close to other names; in this case a city that borders Ophir is named Shamar, so I guess he decided he knew better than Howard what to name Hyborian cities.
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