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Lars Porsenna

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About Lars Porsenna

  • Rank
    Godlike
  • Birthday 05/19/1977

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clusium, Etruria
  • Interests
    Historical Wargames, History in general, fantasy & SF RPGs and literature, space sciences, model building, and monkeying around...

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  1. The Tamiya paints are not the same kind of acrylics as FREX Testors Acryl or the Reaper stuff we all love. Its some sort of hybrid that I'm not really aware of why it is. But it works. I'm not sure I would really want to use lacquer in other acrylic paints unless they are specifically called out for (Tamiya has its own house brand of lacquer thinner). That being said, I hear Tamiya glosses thinned with lacquer go down really glossy, but as a military modeler I don't use those very often, so haven't tried yet. There's a lot of different paints out there & I've tried a number of them (recently pushed Mission Models new paint through my airbrush, Soviet Armor Green...though the color is suspect in my eyes), so part of it is trying out different paints until you come across one you like. Most have their advantages & disadvantages. For me Tamiya is pure pleasure to airbrush & rarely have clogs or tip build up. So stays my favorite. With lacquer thinning it just got that much better... Damon.
  2. So I did the experiment last night on a bit of Bones sprue left over from the vegepygmies set. So far results loom good. I got the advantages of lacquer thinner (smoooooth coat, sprays very well, dried very fast), but no tackiness so far. But I need to give it a few days to see if it occurs or if the lacquer thinner (which is a "hot" thinner in that it can chemically react with certain plastics) has a an adverse reaction with Bonesium... Damon.
  3. I didn't back the last Bones campaign... Family issues & the like. But I do have the sprue from the Vegepygmies on my workdesk & am gearing up to paint another tank. So I'll do a test run sometime this week (I hope) & see what happens... Damon.
  4. Title says it all. I build scale models (1/35 armor mostly) & use Tamiya extensively with my airbrush. I also prime my Bones figures with Tamiya so I don't have to develop different techniques when painting (KISS principle!). Lately for scale modeling I've been thinning Tamiya Acrylic paints with Tamiya-branded lacquer thinner (yes, sounds weird but it works; Also supposedly works for Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color as well). We all know what happens when you prime Bones with many Enamel based primers. Has anyone tried painting with Tamiya acrylics thinned with lacquer, & did that have an adverse effect? Sure I can experiment, & will do so if I get no answers, but I want to see if someone thought of this first! Damon.
  5. Lars Porsenna

    Unpainted Minis from Wizkids

    Have to say I don't like that Wizkids stone giant at all. Proportions seem wrong. I like the Reaper one better! Also don't care for the Cloud Giant either, for aesthetic reasons. Damon.
  6. Lars Porsenna

    Warlord Games General Historical Discussion

    I LOVE Perry metals, but I'm pretty luke-warm about their plastic sets. I don't have any of the WWII stuff, but I have the 15th C Infantry set & the Agincourt foot knights sets. I like the designs & attention to detail of the armor the figures have, but the sculpting leaves me cold. I'm going to stick to Perry metals from now on (which are top notch, if the castings are a little "rough"). Damon.
  7. Lars Porsenna

    Kings of War

    I knew of a Sergeant in the US Army that would have gaming sessions in the back of an M577 Command Vehicle during exercizes when all the officers went home to their beds (leaving the enlisted & NCOs out in the field). Even described how he could fit a DMG, PHB & dice bag in a rucksack! The M577s were ideal because of the map boards they had... Damon, has a model of an M577. Now considering showing a bunch of soldiers playing D&D in it...
  8. Lars Porsenna

    Warlord Games General Historical Discussion

    StuGs, like any piece of WWII equipment, is a study of evolution. The G model entered production in December 1942, though this kit is not that model (this very early G had the fighting compartment ventilator on the compartment roof, rather than the rear wall), so this would be a spring '43 production. Some of the features to look for include the smoke grenade launchers on the fighting compartment sides (which were discontinued in later production models, when they were replaced with an internal grenade launcher that could fire both close-in Apers grenades as well as smoke grenades IIRC). The external smoke grenade launchers tended to catch on fire when damaged in combat. The other distinguishing feature is what appears to be applique armor on the hull nose. Early Gs were produced with 50mm armor in these areas, just like the preceding F model. Bolt-on 30mm plates were added to make the frontal armor 80mm. Later production runs had the base armor built at 80mm. This model also is remarkable in that it lacks Zimmerit, which was added late summer '43 until September 1944. So out of the box it wouldn't be a vehicle produced later than around August 1943. Some other distinguishing features: the kit has skirt armor, which was not implemented until March 1943, so assuming this is not a rebuild, the vehicle would have to be a post-March '43 production. So it would ONLY be painted in Dark Yellow (No grey Gs with skirt armor...even if a rebuild this would have happened during an overhaul & would get a fresh coat of paint). All of this IIRC. I'm working from memory. Tanks are my specific & particular interest. Ask me questions! Another note: the block mantlet was kept in production till the end of the war. Late model Gs with the remote weapon station in the loaders position, travel lock & coaxial MG-34 had a hole drilled in the block mantlet for the coax. The block mantlet was available for both the StuG IIIG & the StuH 42. I like the StuG IIIGs, but I like the StuG IV much better (I build 1/35 scale armor models; I have 3 StuG IVs & only one StuG IIIG, though I do have a StuG IIIF L/43 & a StuG IIIC rebuild with an L/48 that I haven't started yet). I'm ambivalent about WWII skirmish games because a lot of the figures are suspect (as some of the comments in this thread indicate). My pet peeve is German infantry without bread bags! A distinctive piece of kit for the German army, that is noticeable in its absence. Some companies sculpt them on, others don't. But admittedly I haven't been looking very hard recently. Damon.
  9. Lars Porsenna

    Warlord Games General Historical Discussion

    What was the issue with the Warlord Pz IV Exhaust? I went & looked at the pictures & the exhaust looks pretty typical for this tank. The bigger issue seems to be that, like a lot of historical models, it doesn't build into a quite accurate model of anything (the PSC Pz IVs in 15mm suffer from the same issue). The F version lacks the smoke grenade mount on the hull rear, & the H version still has the split commander's hatch (one-piece hatches were incorporated in the late-G models), the turret would need to remove the side visors & the auxiliary turret face visor in order to make an accurate G or H, etc. I don't know if the instructions specify these differences, but usually wargamers just don't care enough about those details. The Warlord StuG IIIG is, to be fair, an early G produced in early to mid '43, so lack of a saukopf isn't as much as an issue if you build it as it comes in the box (assuming of course accuracy is at all a concern for you). One note: the promo pictures show the MG shield up with an MG mounted. IIRC the shield could only be deployed when the loader hatches were open... there was a hook on the forward hatch that engaged the shield to act as a support to keep it up. I see a lot of models built that show this deployed but it could not stand up on its own... the hatches MUST be open to model accurately. FYI. Damon.
  10. Lars Porsenna

    Anyone else digging the new Oathmark plastics as much as I am

    Depending on how the heads are sculpted, the heavy Dwarf infantry spares might be a good upgrade for the regular Dwarfs. I have a pet peeve against figures wearing armor but NOT a helmet! Damon.
  11. Lars Porsenna

    Sci fi game universe

    Also consider cultural reasons too! Perhaps the aliens evolved from burrowing animals, & have a cultural preference for underground structures! The base environment the aliens evolved for before uplift to full sentience is going to have a big impact on their cultural & behavioral outlook. Damon.
  12. Lars Porsenna

    Sci fi game universe

    I think one thing to think about is why are these ruins or dungeons here, what purpose did they serve, & why are our adventurers exploring? Also this is SF so sometimes it pays to think BIG! I had a Fading Suns campaign many years ago. If you're not familiar with it, its sort of like The Middle Ages meets Dune in Space. With Lovecraftian complications. Its great! I ran an adventure in which the party had to explore some pre-contact alien ruins. I called it the Mega-sewers of Saiwhun. I sort of got the idea from a David Brin book about the Mulch Spider, a bio-artificial construct dedicated to "recycling" planets. I wanted a more dungeon thing going on, so I thought: what sort of massive planetary scale recycling system would an advanced (but gone) alien race develop to be caretakers of their world? In the novel, the Mulch Spider (IIRC) achieved this by sending materials into the mantle of the planet. In my adventure I did the same: pollutants & other materials that could not be easily (or worthwile) recycled would be shunted through a massive complex of tubes, tunnels & the like directly into the mantle of the planet for recycling, but on the scale of millions of years rather than weeks, months or decades. This created a huge complex that could be explored, filled with mysterious tech, cultural artifacts. And oh yeah, dinosaurs, because I fluffed that there was a big game park on the planet with genetically re-created dinosaurs, who got loose into the sewers, just because... Damon.
  13. Lars Porsenna

    Bones Black Questions

    I went ahead & primed my Bones Black owlbear. So far so good, but I'm giving it a few days/week to see how it goes. The old formula bones could take a couple days before going "tacky." Damon.
  14. Lars Porsenna

    Bones Black Questions

    Any word on what sort of media these things can be primed with? I got the owlbear & it looks good. The plastic feels different from the original bones or the more "solid" grey bones material, so I'm wondering if these can be primed with the more normal spray primers, like Krylon? Damon.
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