Jump to content


Bones Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation


About JoshTheStampede

  • Rank
  1. My paints are all on wall-mounted nail polish racks, and they are grouped by broad color - all the reds together, all the greens, etc. The only exceptions are one shelf of all metallics, one for off-whites and off-blacks, and a separate one for skin tones. Beyond that I don't bother separating brand or having any particular order, its enough for me to know what shelf to look at when I need, say, an orange.
  2. Not at all - I was actually looking at that in the store, but wasn't sure, and decided to ask opinions before I ordered. I love Bloodstain Red, its one of my favorite reds, though I admit I have never used it to make actual bloodstains. It's a very dark but still pretty saturated red, not brownish. It's similar to old GW Red Gore, maybe a bit darker like Scab Red.
  3. Probably something like P3 Sanguine Base. Also, this sounds facetious, but try... Bloodstain Red.
  4. The Vampiric Skin triad isn't really green to my eye - they're pretty neutral ever so slightly warm greys, not dissimilar to Dheneb Stone actually. The Undead Skin triad (Ghoul Skin, Bloodless Skin, and I forget the other one) are definitely green though.
  5. Even new, modern books aren't going to be pure white. Hold a new book up to a snowbank or white bathroom tile and you'll see what i mean, it's much dingier and not as bright or bleached looking. I'd say maybe Linen White or Leather White or something like VMC Deck Tan.
  6. that is why i dont like their videos i dont need to see the painters face, i prefer mentor videos where all i see is the mini they work on I don't need to see their face exactly but I do like to see the palette, and I do like seeing the painter in general because there's times when the brush leaves frame for a bit and you want to know what is going on - is he washing it, getting more paint, licking the brush, or what? Without a camera on the painter and palette its just dead air and you don't know why. It also gives a human touch where there's banter and conversation - as much as I love the Jen Haley video there's long stretches where its just music and no words and she's silently blending a leg for 20 minutes and that is sort of mind numbing to watch.
  7. That's a few people mentioning highlights, shading and contrast now - at present I only have the 6 colours (one blue, one grey, one flesh, one silver, one white and ... something else that I forget off-hand. Maybe a darker grey, or a green?), so I'm just wondering how I'd go about getting shading/highlights without any extra colours? I guess highlights I can mix white into the colours, and I can also do some drybrushing (thanks Dr Faust!) if I get a larger brush, but is there any way to get darker colours? As a sub-question to that, is that the normal way to do shading, or would you typically have a few different shades of paint which you can use? If I was going to get some different paints, I know Dr Faust mentions Vallejo paints - would something like the Game Color Intro Set be worth getting, or would something else be a better starting point? Again, thanks for all the positive feedback :) I'm not going to get much time in the next couple of days to do any painting, but I'll hopefully get some done at the weekend and report back on my progress :-) Different painters do it different ways - some like to use very limited palettes and mix all their shades/highlights from a small pool of colors, others like to have separate bottled colors for each step, some do a mix of the two. Theoretically you could make any color you want from just having red, yellow, blue, black, and white, but in practice that wastes a lot of paint and the realities of paint production make it not work out like it does in your head. Plus some people are paint addicts - I enjoy mixing colors and yet I still have 200+ bottles of paint laying around. As for brands, Vallejo is good - I prefer the Model Color to Game Color but that is a personal preference. Reaper, P3, and Scale75 are all good brands as well, and I use some of the GW stuff (shades, mostly) while avoiding the rest. Its hard to suggest one over another because I have a couple go-to paints from every range. You'll discover your own preferences over time, but the Game Color starter set is not a bad starting point at all. To what you say you have, I would say its important to add a good red, a good yellow, black, a darkish brown, and a good off-white or bone color.
  8. Angel didn't design the paints for the Vallejo set. They're all existing VMC colors, he just did the box art model and the step by step that comes with the set. And in the time since the "official" color scheme for that model's faction has changed from the grey-steel-blue to a brighter blue. Also I actually found it nice that he didn't use the same colors here that he did in the NMM set because it highlights that those exact colors arent important, its the technique and the awareness of how light works.
  9. Yeah, agreed. If I'm using Linen White or other RMS paint for eyes, I don't thin it. If I'm using P3 Menoth White Highlight I do thin it a bit.
  10. Less paint on your brush. If you're flooding, that's the problem.
  11. All my minis are for gaming so sealing is important. I gloss coat with Future and then matte coat with Liquitex Varnish, both through an airbrush.
  12. What's different about Wargames Foundry? I'm not familiar with their paints.
  13. I've watched hours of NASCAR and I still don't know how to drive! :) Painting videos and tutorials are great but you still have to put the brush to the mini and practice. Brush control and hand steadiness and such are just learned muscle memory, just like it feels super alien to write left handed but you eventually get used to it. Hand shakiness can be overcome with creative ways of bracing your arms and hands while you paint. You just need to do it and stop worrying about doing it. The absolute worst case is a mini looks bad and you strip it. And yeah, drybrushing is a crutch. It's a perfect technique for heavy texture areas like fur or hair or chainmail, but if you use it for your only method of highlighting you'll quickly hit a plateau.
  14. I don't believe this is correct. Also if they aren't ground what does "super fine" mean anyway? Edit: unless you mean HOBBY paints are all made with liquid, which I have no idea about. Actual artists paints are most definitely made with ground pigments.
  15. I have a Master TC-20 (I think) compressor and it was about 80 dollars, and came with a cheapo airbrush as well. It works fine, though I did need to get some adapters to make it fit my Badger airbrushes. Those were about 5 dollars though so no biggie. It's not silent but it's quieter than my HVAC when it kicks on, so it's quiet enough. If you get the kind with a tank, it'll be more expensive (maybe 150 bucks) but even quieter since it only runs to fill the tank and then runs silent until the tank empties.
  • Create New...