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BLZeebub

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About BLZeebub

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    Godlike

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boone, NC
  • Interests
    painting minis, slowly updating forum profiles. . .

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  1. A simple fade from dark at the edges to light in the middle of the focus looks nice. Be careful of getting too detailed or contrasting with backdrops as cameras may try to focus on the background details. Not sure how to look for them, but I have several backdrops I've painted and posted on the forum. Most are fairly neutral in color (dirty gold, one is dark and cloudy, another is forest colors...). Maybe try themes, rather than actual images--blue and white for a snow background, tan and brown for a desert background, etc.
  2. Reminds me of Kain (of Legacy fame)! Great work on that armour and everything.
  3. Just glue and sand work wonderfully. You can apply glue, then sprinkle sand (or dip the base in it), or you can mix the sand and glue and apply that for more volume. Wood filler (not putty) works great too if you have some around. It's basically sawdust in a glue-like material.
  4. Do you mean mangrove swamp? Those are pretty awesome. Do a search for "jungle floor" and "swamp ground," for starters. First image I get from swamp is actually a terrain piece. For the jungle, think shadows, moss, decay, extensive roots, maybe vines. Little light typically hits the understory. For the swamp, consider learning to use resin or even just a gloss finish in parts to create puddles. Again, decay--very dark on the basecoat. But also add in some rangy grasses/sedges, cattails, rotten stumps, vines clinging to anything tall enough.
  5. Most impressive. I can see cyber-execs tapping the juice in that thing on the way to shady meetings.
  6. No experience glazing with white. But I am not sure it's the best idea. The outcome I foresee is tinting or making your other colors look dim and cloudy, rather than subdued. You may want to do a basecoat of the white, wash with your vibrants, and just highlight with white over that. With a thin wash, the colors shouldn't be too intense. You could even mix them to more subdued tone--mix blues with darker blues or a medium grey, yellows with a light, warm brown, pinks are probably safe as they are. Just my thoughts.
  7. I don't see why it would be an issue. Almost anything besides water (ed: even water is fine, but it also thins and can evaporate out pretty quickly sometimes) seems to make an effective flow medium (floor polish, glycerin, actual flow improver, etc). If you're worried, try it on one bottle, give it a couple weeks to make sure it doesn't act weird, and then do the rest. I would assume glaze and flow media are nearly the same as far as drying time, especially if you already add the glaze regularly. Edit: Clarified water statement
  8. As above, plain ol' acrylics work pretty well. You just need to mix really well to avoid bubbles of paint (unless you want them!). You can start with very little, and depending on the set time (resin doesn't have a huge working time) add paint until the tone/hue is what you want. For general reference, I'd say the above pool with the wizard beside it is less than a full drop of paint, maybe a large drop or two for the well. Doesn't take much.
  9. Cool idea. The song was the first thing I thought of when I read the title. I agree a little vignette would be cool--even if Eddie is removable. Either way, this sounds like a blast of a project (From research to execution).
  10. Pick your poison mate. Real G's come in all the colors you mentioned and others. You could do them as silverbacks or entirely grey even. White with purple/bluish flesh like yetis or samsquanches. Blackest black like the shade in the jungle. A blonde G would be neat too.
  11. Yep, probably possibly legit. This page has a pic of the card (careful clicking strange links, but feel free to search for "2nd Stimulus Check" to see what it looks like if you don't want to click it). https://wgntv.com/news/second-stimulus-check-irs-urges-people-to-watch-mail-for-these-envelopes/ You got yours FAST though! Thought that hadn't gone through Congress yet. Looks like it was yesterday.
  12. I'll reiterate what Glitterwolf said: no flash. Indirect lighting as others have said, but a camera flash creates shadows and hotspots--even on the blackest of backgrounds.
  13. I'll throw in on this. $200 is fair for a $100 Core Set. Remember, they paid $100, at some (negligible, granted) risk and investment cost, then waited upwards of 2 years to get it. Then shipping/packaging is pushing $20. So that's a very fair markup. On the other hand, most sellers would take $160 probably. Plus to buy it all retail you're looking at closer to $300, if all the models are even available for purchase yet. Edit: Also, you can pick up the entire Core and sell off what you don't want. Subsidizes your hobby and helps someone else get specific minis.
  14. Here's a neat option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru0rEyVia2Y You can just search for "miniature marble painting" techniques. If you have an airbrush it expands your options, and this video can be useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLVE1q0fGDA
  15. White glue...could work. It dries clear, so it sort of depends on the size of the chain links. Too small and you get a knobby rope! If you have extra chain material, you can experiment with it. I like TGP's suggestion too. Superglue could be used at attachments for drooping chains, or maybe soak the thing (superglue tends to pull away from openings). I think superglue would be quite brittle in that function though.
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