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Everything posted by BLZeebub

  1. BLZeebub

    Ebay core sets?

    I'll throw in on this. $200 is fair for a $100 Core Set. Remember, they paid $100, at some (negligible, granted) risk and investment cost, then waited upwards of 2 years to get it. Then shipping/packaging is pushing $20. So that's a very fair markup. On the other hand, most sellers would take $160 probably. Plus to buy it all retail you're looking at closer to $300, if all the models are even available for purchase yet. Edit: Also, you can pick up the entire Core and sell off what you don't want. Subsidizes your hobby and helps someone else get specific minis.
  2. Here's a neat option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru0rEyVia2Y You can just search for "miniature marble painting" techniques. If you have an airbrush it expands your options, and this video can be useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLVE1q0fGDA
  3. White glue...could work. It dries clear, so it sort of depends on the size of the chain links. Too small and you get a knobby rope! If you have extra chain material, you can experiment with it. I like TGP's suggestion too. Superglue could be used at attachments for drooping chains, or maybe soak the thing (superglue tends to pull away from openings). I think superglue would be quite brittle in that function though.
  4. Depending on how long, you could use plastic jewelry chains and simply glue each link together. That would work for shorter or supported chains. For longer/bigger you could use a scaffold made of stiffer wire and either attach the chain with glue or thread wire through it at intervals, then glue. Use curves in the chain to hide the wire itself.
  5. What IS that guy!? I think I need one!
  6. I think you mean "owlriginal" idea... @Mini That is truly hoowonderful! It's so cool it makes my head spin! Very simple and elegant. Just superbly executed all around.
  7. You are in the wrong correct forum. Did you check any other posts FAQs? This is a miniature painting and modeling forum. But And welcome just the same! This is definitely the place to ask about airbrushes! Edit: Woops! Reaper makes an airbrush!?
  8. Could be over-thinned, could just be the nature of reds. If you're looking for a vibrant red in the end you can even prime in a pink or bright orange. Otherwise, as stated, use a tan, medium brown, or darker orange depending on the finished tone you're after.
  9. I'm sure there's something else in the pics, but I can't see anything besides that hair! It's fabulous and perfect!
  10. Cool. If you're using less durable materials you could always snatch the cardboard tube from a roll of cling wrap or foil. Otherwise, you can find pvc pipe of the right diameter for a couple of dollars. Either drill a hole and plug it with the mast or attach some kind of tab or pin as you did with the figurehead. edit: or just a section of wood dowel if you're actually buying things!
  11. I don't know how much of it is intentional maligning. But it was definitely not indicated for COVID, then it was maybe (I forgot if that was before or after Trump started spouting its virtues), then it was off the table again (at least as recently as June, 2020) for COVID due to the rarer side effects. The side effects are real, if fairly uncommon, and I've taken it for 27 days as an anti-malarial--no side effects that I could tell. When is the study you're referring to, relative to the most recent *news* update on HQC's use? Another reason for maligning is simply that it hasn't been thoroughly tested for the new use. It's usually prescribed as an anti-malarial (and maybe as an anti-clotting agent? Not sure of all the uses), but prescribing it for symptoms of a completely unknown disease is kind of bonkers without rigorous testing. We're still finding new symptoms and complications that may make this the wrong drug for some patients. Too many variables!
  12. Agreed on disagreement with experts. Hydroxychoroquin is, and has been doubly determined, NOT to be a safe way to treat or prevent COVID 19 and there are pretty nasty side effects that aren't worth the risk. Doc not get the memo?
  13. Yeah... Gah, that's a some kind of "good mornin," huh... RIP
  14. Good luck. Good news is you're probably fine. On average it's more of a boogieman than a burglar (one's imaginary or over-feared, one is real/dangerous), BUT I keep reading about other longer-lasting symptoms (like heart damage) that even mild cases can show. Rest, hydrate, don't touch anyone!
  15. Testors Dullcote is one of (if not THE) the strongest miniature level sealers. It's meant to seal/degloss enamels. One coat should be great. It is a thinner-based sealer though, so I wouldn't use anything by Reaper on top of that, as it won't stick. You'll need either a spray sealer (Krylon, Rustoleum, whatever) to stick to the Dullcote. Then you could use Reaper/waterborne sealers on top.
  16. Looks pretty excellent, especially for a first try. Second pic is really convincing. If anything (at least for the method you're using), maybe make the lighter green more of a crescent shape so the black is a larger proportion of the gem. Something roughly like 60% black/30% strong green/9% brighter green in the strong green/1%white. Or break the black up into a green so dark it's indistinguishable from black. On gems a lot of time less is more with the gem color--the dark, the highlights (yours are great, btw), and the contrast between them are what really sell the gem image. Great work!
  17. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/68026-totally-unofficial-replacement-paint-labels/ You mean this?
  18. Carbon would be fine. On blacks, don't be too afraid to go lighter than you think you should on the highlights/drybrushing. You can get away with a pretty pale grey (like the area around the white text boxes in the fora!) without it looking shiny (if you want it to look like slick black vinyl or leather, use pure white at the top).
  19. You didn't mention washing him before priming--to remove any residual mold-release. That can cause flaking/beading sometimes.
  20. Super easy if it's bones. Nice hobby blade'll make short work of it.
  21. Here we go, in order by tone and color/hue. Satisfaction. The left one contains neutrals, fleshes, metallics, and things like flow improver. The right is the rainbow (plus pinks and other mysteries).
  22. Plain ol' super glue--cyanoacrylic glue--is best. You can find various brands and options. Krazy glue, Loctite, Gorilla, Zap-a-Gap, for examples. Gel, precision tip, et al. Another thing to consider is using greenstuff or some kind of two-part sculpting putty. I've never found it necessary, but it apparently holds really well to bones and even metal. Bonesium and resins should react the same to the above.
  23. Meh, they'd have me over a chair if they offered a complete dice set, but I resist just the d20, freaking awesome as they are.
  24. Well, somehow I've only got around 180 at the moment (some doubles), and hope to keep some oddballs with the other styles of bottles (anti-shine, things I don't need to see for them to be useful). Plus, I can always make more... ugh!
  25. So after too many years of painting with my bottles just in boxes or standing around on my shelf of shame or in various drawers, I have finally at much cost of labor made paint organizers! BEHOLD! I made these to hold up to 204 Reaper dropper sized bottles (Army Painter and Vallejo fit too). They aren't the only ones I use by any means, but they're the bulk of my paint collection. Wasn't the hardest thing in the world, but honestly I might try another method if I do this again. Right now the units are loose, probably going to lean them on the wall--eventually I would put supports on the backs so they can stand up at an angle (think picture frames). The insane super duper bonus feature is that I can put the two together and transport, or more importantly, SHAKE all my paints at once! The main purpose was organization though and being able to see each of my paints and, when I've organized and sorted them, see the spectrum at a glance rather than digging through a drawer as I have been doing. For the chromophiles out there I'll post pics when they're sorted and in their proper places. To make them, I sized the bottles and figured out the hole size and spacing (bottles are about 1" diameter, I used a 1 1/8" hole saw (paddle bit blew out the back side) and drilled 102 holes (sandwiched the 3/4" boards together). It took hours as my drills' batteries kept dying and the saw lost its good edge by the 60th holes or so. I used the "holes" I drilled out as supports (had to chisel the middle supports in half) between the silver parts and the 5mm (yes, civilized world, in the US we know how to use proper/metric, and certain sizes of wood are specified in metric!) plywood base (black, not really visible). I carefully glued and screwed these together. Decided to use up some spray paint I had lying around. Enjoy and be inspired!
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