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BLZeebub

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Posts posted by BLZeebub

  1. I have a few of those.  I recommend a relatively large, smooth surface area, preferably convex or multiplanar--otherwise the effect is lost.  You may want to experiment with different base colors too--on cardboard or sacrificial minis.  I've used black or white to decent effect, or even green or purple (for violet green shift).  It always takes me several coats to make the effect noticeable, and I find it...effortful to get a smooth coat, so use the largest brush you can (kind of normal painting advice).

    • Like 2
  2. Hello and welcome!  There aren't official guides that I know of for non-kit minis, no.  You can kind of experiment and look around for recipes and try to match things you like though.

     

    If you're still building up your paint collection you can get more Learn to Paint kits and get guided practice with different colors, different techniques, and just generally broaden your paint-sense at the same time. 

     

    Finally, find painting videos, where someone paints a mini from start to finish, or at least tells their recipe, and look for colors you want to imitate.

     

    Good luck!

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  3. A simple fade from dark at the edges to light in the middle of the focus looks nice.  Be careful of getting too detailed or contrasting with backdrops as cameras may try to focus on the background details.

     

    Not sure how to look for them, but I have several backdrops I've painted and posted on the forum.  Most are fairly neutral in color (dirty gold, one is dark and cloudy, another is forest colors...). 

     

    Maybe try themes, rather than actual images--blue and white for a snow background, tan and brown for a desert background, etc.

    • Like 2
  4. Just glue and sand work wonderfully.  You can apply glue, then sprinkle sand (or dip the base in it), or you can mix the sand and glue and apply that for more volume.

    Wood filler (not putty) works great too if you have some around.  It's basically sawdust in a glue-like material.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  5. Do you mean mangrove swamp?  Those are pretty awesome.

     

    Do a search for "jungle floor" and "swamp ground," for starters.  First image I get from swamp is actually a terrain piece. 

     

    For the jungle, think shadows, moss, decay, extensive roots, maybe vines.  Little light typically hits the understory. 

     

    For the swamp, consider learning to use resin or even just a gloss finish in parts to create puddles.  Again, decay--very dark on the basecoat.  But also add in some rangy grasses/sedges, cattails, rotten stumps, vines clinging to anything tall enough.

     

    You can use dried herbs (oregano, parsley, basil), coarse ground black pepper, normal dried leaves, crumbled and glued on and painted.  Vines can be almost anything string-like.  Roots can be made from string or thin wire.  Bulk it out with greenstuff or air-dry clay or paper towel soaked in glue.  Same with dead trees and stumps.

    • Like 4
  6. No experience glazing with white.  But I am not sure it's the best idea.  The outcome I foresee is tinting or making your other colors look dim and cloudy, rather than subdued.  You may want to do a basecoat of the white, wash with your vibrants, and just highlight with white over that.  With a thin wash, the colors shouldn't be too intense.  You could even mix them to more subdued tone--mix blues with darker blues or a medium grey, yellows with a light, warm brown, pinks are probably safe as they are.

     

    Just my thoughts.

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  7. I don't see why it would be an issue.  Almost anything besides water (ed:  even water is fine, but it also thins and can evaporate out pretty quickly sometimes) seems to make an effective flow medium (floor polish, glycerin, actual flow improver, etc).  If you're worried, try it on one bottle, give it a couple weeks to make sure it doesn't act weird, and then do the rest.  I would assume glaze and flow media are nearly the same as far as drying time, especially if you already add the glaze regularly.

     

    Edit:  Clarified water statement

  8. As above, plain ol' acrylics work pretty well.  You just need to mix really well to avoid bubbles of paint (unless you want them!).  You can start with very little, and depending on the set time (resin doesn't have a huge working time) add paint until the tone/hue is what you want.  For general reference, I'd say the above pool with the wizard beside it is less than a full drop of paint, maybe a large drop or two for the well.  Doesn't take much.

    • Like 3
  9. Pick your poison mate.  Real G's come in all the colors you mentioned and others.  You could do them as silverbacks or entirely grey even.  White with purple/bluish flesh like yetis or samsquanches.  Blackest black like the shade in the jungle.  A blonde G would be neat too.

    • Like 1
  10. Yep, probably  possibly legit.  This page has a pic of the card (careful clicking strange links, but feel free to search for "2nd Stimulus Check" to see what it looks like if you don't want to click it).  https://wgntv.com/news/second-stimulus-check-irs-urges-people-to-watch-mail-for-these-envelopes/

    You got yours FAST though!  Thought that hadn't gone through Congress yet.  Looks like it was yesterday.

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  11. I'll throw in on this.  $200 is fair for a $100 Core Set.  Remember, they paid $100, at some (negligible, granted) risk and investment cost, then waited upwards of 2 years to get it.  Then shipping/packaging is pushing $20.  So that's a very fair markup.  On the other hand, most sellers would take $160 probably.  Plus to buy it all retail you're looking at closer to $300, if all the models are even available for purchase yet.

    10 hours ago, R2ED said:

    Just figured it's a better deal in bulk to snag a Core than pick and choose.  I'm sure just getting the ones i want is less expensive, but i like getting some that are outside my normal zone to push me to paint different types.  Also, with that many, i was thinking painting and gifting them.  Good call though, and thank you. 

    Edit:  Also, you can pick up the entire Core and sell off what you don't want.  Subsidizes your hobby and helps someone else get specific minis.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  12. 4 hours ago, haldir said:

    Would white glue work (aka more scenery glue then plain Elmer's glue)?

     

    Well it appears I did get rid of the chain weapon pack by Reaper. I must have thought I'd never convert something to be using a chain weapon. So DiY it is!!!

    White glue...could work.  It dries clear, so it sort of depends on the size of the chain links.  Too small and you get a knobby rope!  If you have extra chain material, you can experiment with it.  I like TGP's suggestion too.  Superglue could be used at attachments for drooping chains, or maybe soak the thing (superglue tends to pull away from openings).  I think superglue would be quite brittle in that function though.

    • Like 1
  13. Depending on how long, you could use plastic jewelry chains and simply glue each link together.  That would work for shorter or supported chains.  For longer/bigger you could use a scaffold made of stiffer wire and either attach the chain with glue or thread wire through it at intervals, then glue.  Use curves in the chain to hide the wire itself.

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  14. 7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

    That's awesome!

    Original idea, well executed.

    I think you mean "owlriginal" idea...

     

    @Mini

    That is truly hoowonderful!  It's so cool it makes my head spin!

    Very simple and elegant.  Just superbly executed all around.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
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