Cerridwyn1st

humph, I try to start a serious topic, and I get bad filking and silly stuff about ketchup.

You would field the canon as a Generic Siege engine - and loose all faction abilities. But who know what future releases will bring?

I've run two demos so far this weekend. It's the first time I've run having my own fully painted dragon. I have to say, the big guy really pulls people in. Aparantly everyone loves a dragon hunt.

I recognize some of the castle pieces - styrofoam, right? Where can you get those?

I've tried a couple of different ways of putting my troops together, but so far what I like best is Selwyn with an accuracy upgrade, Caerwyn and as many Archer grungs as I can get away with. Need at least four to balance the inclusion of Caerwyn. Then I've got another troup with Arnise (usually give her Minor Magical Armor), Lysette and as many fighters as I've got the points to field. Make sure Lysette has Dispell and Fireball, among other things. It works pretty well. With the Archers dropping volleys and Lysette slinging spells, it gets real nasty. Since Caerwyn has Blazer, other archers in her troop with contiguous contact don't need to see what they are shooting at. As long as Caerwyn can see the target, they can all volley it at a range of 36". Very nasty, believe me!

What does defense have to do with using Volley? Trust me, Volleys are very offensive - especially if you are playing elves.

So very true. I needed one last blister pack to complete my Ral Partha Ravenloft collection; one that hadn't shown up on ebay for over two years. When one showed up recently, the high bider paid over $50 US for a pack that cost $7 when it was released. I just wouldn't pay that high. Turned out, the very next week, the same seller put another one up. That one went for $45, and again I was not high bidder. The next week, the seller put up another, and I did get it for $25. Finally, he had one more the week after that went for $12. Must have just been the three of us that were actively looking for it and when the insane collector demand was met, the price went way down. If that were me with four blisters to unload, I'd have done Second Chance Offers to the highest three loosing bidders on the first offering. Why pay three more listing fees? Probably got greedy and thought he'd (or she'd) get another $45.00 sale. Probably lost money by not making the offer to people on that first auction. The people who bid high on the first auction may have either missed subsequent listings or been ticked-off enough by the "hold and sell" tactics that they decided they didn't need that package that badly after all.

Yeah, pretty much the point of Fusion is that it bonds directly to plastic, which many paints will not do. A friend who is a historical modeler and diorama builder suggested I get Fusion so that I could use plastic aquarium plants for scenery and paint them to match what I'm doing in the rest of the diorama. Can't say I've actually gotten that far, but at least I know what to use. While not a primer per se, according to the directions it will bond with metal as well as plastic, and could be used in place of a primer.

You'll have fun, Jay. The Reptus are awesome Melee fighters, not too bad as archers, and their faction abilities really nerf opposing spellcasters (imposes -2 to casting power of spells aimed at Reptus). They are one of the more popular factions with my gaming group.

I've been through several packs of skellies, plus a couple of replacements that were sent. There is one sculpt in particular that breaks very easily. He has a kite shield (shaped like a kite, duh) and a Roman-styled Gladius. His posture is supposed to be with the sword pointed upward and his arm bent in front of him. In packaging, every single one I've gotten (I've had five) has been flattened so the sword points downward. If you bend the arm so the sword is in the "proper" pose, the skelly will break. Not might, WILL. If you leave it in that goofy pose, then it will be OK. Or at least I haven't broken the two that I left alone, but I've broken all three that I posed. Thank goodness for two-part epoxy, though the Skellies look like they just pulled thier right arms out of a Gelatenous Cube.

I really don't like Dull Cote. Maybe I put it on too heavy. Maybe it's Florida's humidity. Maybe I don't wait long enough between my two shiney coats and my dullcoat. Whatever the reason, I find Dull Cote dulls down my metals and wipes out layering. Krylon Satin, on the otherhand, does neither. GW Matt does pretty well too. I have a brush on Matt sealer that I like. But Dull Cote? Bleh.

thats why I will have 6 elf grunts (and probobaly some proxies) in my group shoot em down then when they finally get to you beat em up with other sweet grunts from;crusaders,reptus & nefsocar stuff best from each faction & all very good at melee! The higher DV of other faction models does not make up for the loss of Elven faction archer abilities, IMO. Just use the Warriors as speedbumps and pick off the opposition before they can close with your archers. Oh, and make SURE you have Caerwyn in your Archer troop. Boy, they sure nerfed the Elves by making Caerwyn a Hero instead of a Leader and giving Selwyn a RAV of 2. Means you HAVE to give Selwyn a Minor Accuracy Upgrade or she diminishes the effective RAV of your entire troop when used in a Volley. Of course, you could just leave her out of Volley actions. That works too.

If you are playing a Freelance Company, that means you can use minis from any faction. The only limitation is that you cannot run Evil characters in the same Fighting Company as Good Characters. Many of the monsters are Neutral (for example, the Griffon of the Dwarves). So they could be used with companies that have Good or Evil members. Another limitation on Unique Solos, which applies to all Solo models - you cannot have more Solo models on the field than you have Leadership Models. For example, if I'm running a Fighting Company that has Selwyn and Arnise as the Leadership Models, I can have up to two Solo Models. These might be Mossbeard the Treeman and a Giant Eagle. Hope this helps.

Ya kiddin me, Lars? I got a can of Satin, dark green a couple of weeks ago - figured it would be cool for the Lizardmen; put on a dark green primer then drybrush lighter shades of green I did that with Citadel Dark Angels green paint; didn't realize it's PAINT, not PRIMER, stuff is chipping. Of course, I've been going to a Super Walmart - I guess the regular stores don't have as much stuff.

Now this is cool - a bunch of people are chiming in and saying when and where their local painting group meets. Mine is at War Dogs, Jacksonville, Florida, Sunday afternoon, 3pm to ?. Ya'll clock in, if you've got a local, there is nothing like hanging out with other painters to help improve your skills.

Hey, you can also get Floquil primer at Gaming Stores, if the shop owner is savy. I've tried Floquil and I like it a lot, but it is kind of pricey. Still cheaper than Tamiya and a little easier to find. Tamiya is wonderful stuff. Sometimes it's almost too smooth; I've had thinned paint shimmey on the surface. Had to put down a less-thinned base coat before the paint would adhere. In addition, Tamiya Fine white primer is for plastics, and while it works just fine on metal, I would think that it wouldn't damage plastics like they Krylon you used. As someone already mentioned, Krylon has a paint called Fusion that is specifically for plastics, though it says it will work on a wide variety of surfaces, including wood. I have the stuff but haven't used it. My new fave, both white and black, is Duplicolor Sandable Primer. Wonderfully smooth, goes on nice even in Florida's horrendous humidity (primed a bunch of stuff during one of the hurricanes, if you can believe that.) It's also inexpensive and not too hard to find. Black is available at Walmart, while automotive stores carry both black and white. If you don't like spray primers, Reaper and Vallejo Game Color have brush on. The Vallejo needs to be thinned. Reaper seems thin enough out of the bottle, but it's a pain to use the little screw-top pot. I got one of those flip-top Citadel pots for mine. Reaper must be OK; Anne kept bumming mine at Origins because she didn't have any.

The Testors website has this product: clear coat. You might take a look at the website and see if they still have what you are looking for.

Aw, gee thanks. I have won an award now. I placed third at the Adiken Painting Contest at Origins.

God bless you Flynn; the world could use a few more Lead Junkies like you. As someone who's painted a LOT of grunts in the past few months, I'm very thankful that so many of them are not difficult to paint. I could do a troop of Necropolis, Nefsokar or Crusader grunts on my lunchbreak. Orks and Reptus are a little more difficult, but not bad. Can't wait to get Elf grunts. OK, so maybe they won't be quite as easy to paint as the others, but for sculpts that cool, who cares?

Caerwyn rocks. An archery troop isn't the same without her. Blazer - "You don't need to see it, just shut up and shoot where I tell you." Critical Shot - "Just let me hold still a minute, and watch while I part that guy's hair...." All that and she can cast spells. OK, so maybe not very powerful or very many, but a well-timed Bandage or Bless can be all you need.

Erm, well, just because you can't go to the Asylum and get to hang out with a great painter doesn't mean you can't do something like that yourself. I've been running a weekly painting clinic for close to a year now. True, I don't have a world-famous painter in residence, but who knows? It's starting to attact some really talented people- maybe some day.

Chastity, by using a natural hair brush and wetting it before you apply paint, you thin just a little bit on your brush. I do that myself; sometimes I'll dip the loaded brush in water as well. The drying on the brush thing happens when you use a very small synthetic brush that's dry and then load with full-thickness paint. Even putting your paint on a wet pallet will add a little moisture.

I put the Dragon Lion on a 2" square base so it could be used as a Warlord Generic Flying Monster. I'd love it if the female Centaur was an "official" Warlord miniature. I'm converting my own at the moment.

Hey, you're Black Lighning - wanting all of them isn't a problem. Just do lots and lots of demos. I don't see a problem with an AO having a lot of different faction's Fighting Companies that he or she can field, since the idea is to give other people a chance to try stuff out, find what they like and then spend big bucks getting into the hobby. Of the eight factions I currently have models for, I personally field Elves. Love archery. Might play some other factions, since the only ones I don't have a Fighting Company for are Darkspawn and Mercanaries. I've got a few models for those two, but not a complete troop. If I were going to field a troop for a Convention Tournament, I'd probably do Reven, Mercs or Crusaders, for the simple reason they are the ones with the most complete selections of models in print. Wouldn't have to worry about doing a lot of work on stand-ins that would later be superceded by as-yet unprinted models.

Ditto - nice to know I'm not the only one.