Cerridwyn1st

I've been using the graphic files available here to do just as you discribe. The cards in the draw deck to not represent a specific unit. I was confused about that on my first reading of the rules. Instead, the cards indicate it is the player's turn to activate the unit of his or her choice. I like having a draw deck with the name of the players, their faction and the faction symbol on it. It makes game play much quicker and smoother; I'm not trying to remember who had the Ace of Spades in this match. If you (or anyone else, for that matter) would like the Excel file I have for creating a draw deck, I'd be glad to send it. You may need to add some of the symbols to it, since currently I neither use nor have all the factions. But it would give you a great place to start in creating your own draw deck. Just PM me with your email address.

Caerwyn: Ready ... and Volley! Thup thup thup thup thup thup Ah, blessed silence.

I don't know about the Vale Archers, but the card for Caerwyn has been corrected to show her "real" casting power - 3, 2, 1, instead of 1, 1, 1. The data card also has the casting power for Ombur, the Reven Shaman, where the OLE did not. Aparently there are still some errors in the data cards, so you might want to check them against the book (when it comes out) if something on your cards looks off. Errors on the first run of the data cards are being fixed as these are reported to Reaper. I guess the incorrect cards will become collector's items.

Oh ho, so the discussion about what models and how many for demo games has degenerated into "my troups are better than your troups". Let's see how big your mouth is with a cloth-yard shaft sticking out of it. ELVES RULE!

Hey, I resemble that... or at least I used to. I used to just be into painting the miniatures; I didn't really play any tabletop games. I started painting because the minis I used in D&D were boring and hard to distinguish as just bare metal. Eventually I became very enthusiastic about painting. I tried Warhammer 40K once, but it was kind of confusing to me, so I didn't really enjoy it. Then I tried playing Warlord. Talk about addicting! I love playing my elves - Feathered Sky is such an awesome ability. (With Feathered Sky, elves can create more effective vollies with a smaller party of archers than other factions.) One of the cool things about Warlord is what it takes to build your first fighting company. With as few as eight models, you can have a playable unit. That's the beauty of a skirmish based game. Enjoy your book when you get it. If you have any questions about game play, come back and ask us. You might also see if there is someone in your area playing already and get a game together with him or her. Good luck!

Hey, as far as CMON is concerned, there is a fee for a FEATURED auction. You can add an Ebay link to your posting for free; it just won't come up on the Featured Auction sidebar. You can also post sales info in the Forum section. As for this board, I have an ebay link in my knickname, and I leave it at that. EDIT: OK, it didn't have my Ebay stuff, but I fixed that. If you are looking to buy for "regulars", why not add them to your "favorites sellers" list on ebay? It might make checking for specific people easier for you. There is a tread in this section where many regulars have posted their ebay knicknames. Often they are the same as what they use here.

I ran my first tournament over the last three weekends. Saturday was the last of three rounds for the tournament. I gave the tournament a progression, so people would gradually learn what they needed to about the game. Round one: 500 points, simplified rules (no faction abilities, missile fire or spells). Round two: 750 points, full rules Round three: 1,000 points, full rules.

There was something I did when I first started paiting that helped me a lot with seeing - and painting - light and shadow on a mini. I'd prime the mini black then drybrush with white. This is simiar to the "grayscale" fuzzyizmet was talking about. Then I'd paint the mini with thin layers of color. The "underpainting" would take care of the highlight and shadow for me. This technique helped build a "foundation" for later work with layering and blending. It also helps to make all the little details "pop" so you can see and paint them.

Kevin: You're right; Crusaders and Necropolis are natural enemies. Actually, every faction seems to dislike the Necropolis for one reason or other; just some moreso than others. Each faction will fight each other faction, given the right circumstances. But there are some that are particularly antagonistic to each other. Crusaders and Necopolis REALLY hate each other. Actually, the Crusaders dislike the Overlords even more. Dwarves and Reven (orcs) will duke it out over anything. The Elves dislike the Necropolis and Darkspawn the most. Etc., etc. Casketworks 14 (Spring 2004) has the opinions that each faction has for the others; the article is reprinted in the book.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I was working on elves, reven and reptus at the same time. Between the green skin & scales on reven/reptus and the green clothes on the elves, I was getting greened out. Cheryl, thanks for listing it all out like that. While there may not be any "absolute" color schemes, when painting something for demo armies, I'd like them to to at least be consistant with each other and distinct from other factions.

I was wondering if anyone knows the color schemes for the different factions. Do you have an idea of specific colors? From what I've seen so far, Crusaders are Slate Blue and White, elves use green, and Necropolis has a lot of red and black. I've seen Darkspawn done with a lot of purple, but I'm not sure if that is a faction thing or the artist's preference. Any help would be much appreciated.

Perhaps we should start a thread of "known bugs" for the cards. That way, people who have the cards that have already been released can correct the stats on the cards they have. Cheryl has a point; if you want the problem FIXED, in needs to be addressed to the right people. But for the information of people who already have the product, IMO it's also good to publicize known bugs where all can get the info. Thanks Cheryl, for posting the email address so when problems are found, they can be sent to the right people. I had an idea about the cards. If you use an upgrade item, then the stats on the printed card are no longer correct. What I'm going to do is get some of the Post-it correction tape and put it in my box. I can put the correction tape in the appropriate places on the card, and write in equipment and stat changes. That way I can make adjustments without changing the card. Another idea would be to put the card in a clear sleeve, then generate cards with corrected stats and equipment and place those facing outward on the back side of the card. That way, I'd have the printed picture on the front and the corrected stats on the back. This would also work to correct misprints on the stat side of the cards.

I haven't sent a lot of unpainted minis. I'd be more likely to opt for a box, though I've used padded mailers, too. For painted minis, I'm REALLY concerned about damage. Generally speaking, I take two pieces of foam and cut a mini-sized depression in each side. The mini fits between the two pieces of foam, so it's perfectly protected. I wrap this in bubblewrap or pad it with plastic shopping bags and ship it in a crush-resitant card box from a gaming store. I'm wary of bubble wrap on the minis, since it is too easy for them to shift in shipment and be damaged by the packaging. Archeon On Foot was a special one. It has lots of delicate pieces hanging off. For him, I wired the base to a piece of cardboard and constructed the box around it so nothing was touching the sides of the box. Then I put that box inside a larger one and padded the whole thing. I have a couple of minis I ordered from Thierry Husser. You should have seen HIS packing! The minis were "sandwiched" in pieces of foam as I discribed, with a small piece of chamios wrapped around so they didn't touch the foam. The "mini sandwiches" as he called them were wrapped in bubble wrap and packed in a small lidded box. This in turn was packed in a large box filled with packing peanuts. All this was for two Rackham familiars. I wonder what it looks like when he sends something big?

1) Make sure you put key words in your title, like Reaper or Painted. 2) If you intend on doing auctions long term, you might consider consistantly adding part of your knick to the title. 3) Includes something discriptive of the mini, like its name. 4) Include anything interesting, like if it's a new sculpt For example, if I was selling the new baby dragons, I'd list them this: *NEW* Reaper Baby Dragons, Painted by Cerri To get the most bang for my buck, I'd use the free hosting for one picture, link to other pix on my own site and pop the extra $.25 for a gallery photo. Don't get discouraged. My first ebay sale, I think I got $2.50. My most recent one, I sold a GW Archaon on Foot for $51 and a Werner Klocke Fairy for $36. It will take time before you are recognized. Even then, your prices will reflect the demand for the piece and the quality of the paintjob. I had a couple hastily done familiars in the same sale that went for between $2.50 and $6 apiece. One familiar from the lot was bought by a fan for $10 before I could even post it on ebay. Oh, and NEW stuff, especially GW limited edition figs, will get you the most $$, all other things being equal. One of my first sales to do well was the newest Tox sculpt, only a few weeks after it had come out. Archeon sold for more than any fig I've done, ever.

Woo-hoo, I just got the data cards in the mail. Yup, it's Caerwyn, all right. Gonna confuse everyone when I start saying, "No, that's Caerwyn; the Lorielle is a stand-in for Selwyn." I'll just have to get Selwyn now. I actually have two of this model in progress. I wonder about the quote on the card, "Straight shot; modest range. I thought you needed a professoinal?" That sounds more like something you'd expect from Lorielle Silverrain. Caerwynn would say, "YOU don't need to see it; just shoot where I tell you." Or "See that orc on the ridge? Watch me part his hair." I see pictures in the same gallery Flynn pointed out for the Vale Archers. When can we get those? Could my FLGS order some now?

What's the model number? I have the figurine labled as "Selwyn, Vale Archer Captain". Sometimes my FLGS doesn't have the "latest" stuff, and of course the website is a few weeks behind that. Thanks for the tip, Flynn. I'll get Caerwyn in the next few days, one way or another. Any chance the Vale Archers or Warriors are also "out", just not on the online store?

Hey, get 1" (or thicker) foam at JoAnn's Fabrics. Cut inserts to the proper sizes (I've been using the inserts from my grey plastic boxes as a pattern) and then hot glue closed cell foam to the bottom. They sell the stuff in sheets as some kind of foam craft thing. That's what I've been doing for the trays in my rolly cart. I've also put corrigated plastic (like cardboard, but made from plastic sheets) between the trays for extra stability when I lift them out. So far the trays are working great. I have five in my rolly cart, and four of them are cut. I have Reven, Necropolis, and Crusader in their own trays. Most of my lizardfolk are in the fourth tray, with a few Nefsokar (just starting that group). The last tray is still uncut. I could use some thin foam rubber, like what Reaper uses in the boxed sets, to go between the trays. Other than that the whole thing is working great. I'm using old t-shirt material for that purpose now. The "personal armies" for my son and myself are still in one of the aformentioned plastic tubs; they are a lot easier to manage when you know there's only two factions in them. He plays Dwarves, I have Elves. By the way, the factions that seem to work best for these trays are Dwarves and Crusaders. Even the Warlords will fit in this type of tray. I'm thinking I'll have similar luck with the Nefsokar. I won't put Judas Bloodspire in one of these packs; I'm afraid I'll break off his sword or cape. And getting the Wraith Harvesters into the pack is a true pain in the rear. That's something to keep in mind when picking your forces - transporting them. If you want something that's easy to pack, definately take a look at Dwarves and Crusaders. Easy to pack and the minis themselves are pretty sturdy. Reven take up a lot of space and the skellies in the Necropolis are very fragile. Judas is a pain to pack. There are no grunts for the elves or darkspawn. Of the elves, several models have bows that could very easily get snapped off in transportation. I only have a few Nefsokar. I could talk about them later, when I've got a few more and see how they pack. The Awakened (mummies) are easy to paint, easy to pack, and sturdy; even if I didn't work on the rest of the force, they'd have a place as "random monsters" for campaign or demos.

I noticed when I was ordering cards that you had one for Caerwyn. Oh, when will she be available? An elf archery team just isn't the same without her. I'm currently using Lorrielle Silverrain as a stand in, but I can't wait to get the real thing.

Oh, sorry. If someone has it and can send it to you, then you might be able to get it. Otherwise, you'll just have to wait for the book. Like I said, the online Beta version is no longer available. Maybe there is someone nearby who can get together with you for a friendly game. I hadn't played any miniatures games, and the rules were pretty much Greek to me until I had a chance to play the game and learn some of the mechanics first hand. Also, asking questions here helped a lot.

The beta testing is over; new rule book will hit the shelves in about three weeks. The beta rules were removed for download weeks ago. They're quite a few changes from the Beta to the regular rulebook; you really should just wait a few weeks and get the hardbound rule book.

I haven't had the chance to finish all my Warlord stuff to the degree I'd like to. So for now if the spellcaster has a familiar, I just stick it to the base with poster tack and then remove it after the game. I may keep this for the future, since a spellcaster may not always have a familiar. According to the manual, the preferred method is to attach the familiar to the spellcaster's base. And yes, the size of the base DOES matter, a lot. For one thing, the bigger the base, the more enemies can be in base-to-base contact with that model, increasing their chance to hit him/her. Not something you want in a spellcaster, to be sure.

Thanks for the info, guys. I've been trying to model the demos I run off my experience at GenCon and Origins. For starter groups, I give them about 500 points, with a printed sheet that tells them what the stats are for the models they are using. Basic games do not include spells, missile combat or faction abilities. Pretty much, give them a leader and some grunts and let them have at. As far as number of players, the max I've had to run outside a convention at once was five. I have trained them slowly, over several weeks, so there isn't much I need to do in a given game. I've had as many as nine at a convention. Those were very small units, with limited abilities, so they were easy to run. If I had six or more players, I'd probably break them into two groups and have my son or another experienced player run the second table. I'll vary the points asignments, adding spell casters and archers, plus playing faction abilities, in higher-up games. So, what would you guys recommend a beginning GM buy to start running demos? That's the big question, since hopefully there are some new Assault Officers out there getting ready to run Warlord demos. Myself, I'd suggest a couple of the starter packs, plus some archers and maybe a couple of sergeants to fill out the rosters. Later, add some grunts with the reach ability. That's what I've been doing, and it's worked so far. I really haven't done much, as far as working Breakers into the mix. I've got some Breaker models, but haven't really played them as such yet.

It's probably more like a logical evolution of the previous system, rather than a complete departure. Warlord uses some of the same mechanics, like damage tracks and the like, but because it doesn't use opposed rolls for attacks and such, it's easier and quicker to play. Of course, it is kind of fun to roll against the other guy for stuff, but it gets cumbersome if you have more than a few models on the board.

Just currious, what do the Powers That Be at Reaper consider an "adequate" demo force for Warlord? How many models, how many factions? Of course, I'm a nutcase. I just moved my demo forces into one of those little rolly bags. Five trays of up to 45 models each in one easy little bag. When you have most, if not all of the models for a faction on a single tray, it makes assembling a skirmish group SO much easier. I have another rolly bag with two 2.5" trays that can be used for big monsters like dragons and such. Ye-ha! If any AOs will be running Warlord Demos for the first time in the coming weeks, I'd suggest that you practice first. Line up some victims, er, friends, for casual games and get your pattern "down" before you run for strangers. Don't forget to find tune your scenarios before the game. If you need help with scenarios, look to the list of active AOs on the Black Lightning page and contact a few people with green status. For those with experience, if you'd be willing to give scenario help, etc., to newer Game Masters, post a message here so they know who to call on. I know you guys already, but I hate to "volunteer" anyone without their permission.

ixminis: I understand your comments about organization. I'm in the process of redoing how I store my factions, as it is currently very difficult to know what's what. I've had them in these big plastic tubs with different types of foam storage trays. Problem is, I can't SEE what is available for each faction, especially grunts, all in one place. Having been to several conventions, I've had a chance to see the big rolling cases that Reaper uses for a lot of its figs. They are similar to the airline carry-on rolly bags, but much bigger. I've taken smaller cases and 1" foam, and I'm making trays for it. Each tray holds 45 - 50 miniatures. I've got one tray set up for Reven and another for Crusader at this writing. It sure is nice to see everything in one place! It will be much easier to get skirmish groups on the table with this arrangement.