Cerridwyn1st

A year ago, I would have said exactly what you are saying. But I went ahead and did it anyway, starting a painting group. I was just so darned bored with painting by myself, and I wasn't getting anywhere in improving. You will never know if you don't try. By the way, I was on the other side of the Paint and Take table. A year ago I'd never have imagined being one of the ones TEACHING instead of just slapping paint. So many good things can happen for you if you are willing to reach out to others.

If I understand correctly, first the creature has to make a successful melee attack to pick up the opponent. The throw is a follow-up free action than can be directed at another target, as long as it is within the creature's toss radius. You do not replace the melee attack with a less effective ranged attack; the toss is an adjunct to the melee attack. If I'm doing this wrong and allowing something to be too powerful, please let me know. But the way I read the rules, Toss is an addition to a melee attack, not something that goes on by itself and replaces normal melee. Or is it one of those things where the Stunt action takes the place of the Attack action, so one Stunt to pick up and toss and opponent replaces what would otherwise be two normal melee attacks? In that case, Toss would be most useful to intentionally break Base-to-base contact of a non-horrid creature with a horrid one. If the non-horrid survives, the loss of a damage track would also lower its discipline check, making it harder for it to re-establish base contact and melee the horrid creature.

Could one of you guys provide a link to the original discussion for those of us who missed it?

Hex: I don't know about you, but I'm built more like a barge than a ship... Just get your Warlord army together, and maybe we can have a go next year. I will show you the might of the elven archers, and you will come to fear my laser pointer. Ha ha! Bryan, I've got a few things I want to ask about Toss. Is throwing another model a free action, or does it count as an additional attack? I mean, if a Dragon picks up another model on an attack, does throwing away that model soak up one of his three attacks? If not, then theoretically, a dragon could make six attacks - three to pick up other models, three more when he tosses them at other models. Man, that is just sick. Since the model that is tossed has broken base to base contact, would it have to make another discipline check to overcome the dragon's Horrid special ability and re-engage for melee attack? Not that too many creatures will survive the point of toss damage, but if they did...

Ya'll shoulda seen when we all went to breakfast at IHOP. Rob said we should all order "Rooty-tootie Fresh and Fruity Breakfast". For grins and giggles, I had Thane (FreeFall) sign mine. Mine almost had some silver tie-dye- dumped a whole pot of the stuff on myself in the Speed Paint. Fortunately, it washed out. I was wearing mine in Paint and Take and someone asked how he could get one. I told him they were made especially for the Reaper BL people, so they weren't otherwise available, and mine was signed by the artist.

No way, dude! it's not my fault, (well, at least I don't think it's my fault...)! We were playing Necropolis, dude, we were destined to lose... I noticed this when I was playing demos at Origins - equal numbers of Skellies are far outclassed by Crusaders. When I run Warlord demos, I give Necro and Elf players 8 grunts, while Reven, Crusaders and Reptus get 6. Evens things out a bit. Has anyone else had GW Fanboy crossovers for Warlord? About half my play group at my home store have ditched Warhammer in favor of Warlord.

What are you using for primer? Stuff that isn't properly primed is more apt to chip than those that are. Suggestions: Floquil or Tamiya Fine if you are REALLY finiky. Plaid Glass Mediuim topped off with Reaper Brush-on primer if humidity is an issue; it also doesn't obsure detail. Krylon white primer if you want to go on the cheap. Duplicolor Black Sandable Auto Primer if you want something inexpensive, easy to use and quick to paint on top of (black creates its own shading). I personally avoid Citadel primer like the plague. Some people will tell you to clean your minis in advance. Others say they don't bother. Just to be on the safe side, I wipe mine down with a cloth that has been dampened with rubbing alcohol. Removes surface dust, skin oil and mold release agent, but won't take forever to dry like soap and water.

If you are using Citadel colors, try adding Goblin Green to your Dark Angels, then add Bad Moon Yellow for the final highlight. I've been using either Reaper Elven Green or Vallejo Black green for a base, then adding in Light German Camo Green (or something similar) and finishing with Yellow/green. It is a very nice transition. Adding white to green is a bad idea. In general, start with a nice shade of green and add blue/black for your shadow and yellow for your highlight. If you are in Indiana, make plans to attend the next GenCon and go to the Paint and Take. There are many great painters there, and they are very nice about sharing their ideas. One last suggestion. Pick a day that is good for you, go to the game store, hang out and paint. Do this about the same time/day for a couple more weeks. You might be surprised what you can get started like this. Just don't be discouraged and quit until you've done it at least three weeks in a row.

I kinda thought ghouls from the DHL pack would make good broken fodder for a Dark Spawn army. They look like some poor sot who's been tortured until he's gone mad, don't they? It looks like it will be a while until the Warlord Broken Fodder will be released, so you could get some serious table time with them before they are phased out.

If you've got some spare models, run a couple of demos yourself. Once people have a "taste", they will be eager to play more. Entry for Warlord is about $40, as opposed to nearly $400 for a starter Warhammer set. With a game that is easy and quick to play and cheap to get into, it should be simple to attract people to play with you, as long as you take the effort to show a few people how.

So get them re-based and lets get ready to rumble!

See, the whole "Warlord only models for official events" thing annoys me. 1) I'd like to have an "all chick" Elven force, just for the fun of it, including a Centaur 2) Spending time converting and painting models so I have elven grunts to play Warlord now, when they will all be USELESS when the grunts DO come out (Yes, Cheryl, I know you warned me...) 3) You are publishing new models in the DHL line that would be great for Warlord - it seems crazy to me NOT to allow those models to be used in Warlord, especially if it will be months before the Warlord equivalents will be available. and most annoying of all: 4) Often the Warlord models are made more to look cool than to be easy to assemble into "units" with base to base contact. I challenge you to use Judas Bloodspire in a formation. Why are so many of the models for the tabletop game LESS useful for unit formations than DHL models? If the DHL models themselves work better for the game, why not use them?

So, Hexxen, now is the time to purchase your armies and get them painted and assembled, so you will be ready to go when the book its the shelf. I'm nuts about this game, I love to play! My only regret about running a tournament is I'll be running the game, not playing. But I'll have a good group of butts to kick once the trourney is over and we can start having regular weekly play.

In my Saturday group, one of my players is driving the rest nuts by using Uru's ability to pick up and throw most grunts. Look out! Dwarf bowling!

Data cards... did he say data cards? Whoo-hoo, they do exsist! Any chance you will make additional "packs" available to use BL people who have already bought starters? That way, we can drop the cards, dice, etc., and say, "look what comes in this geat kit!"

Unfortunately, No. Nord's stores will not be receiving enough additional copies of the Book to trade in the OLE's. You will have to mail it in, but you get the "cool swag stuff" for your trouble. And if 4 days without your Wrlord book is too long, buy a copy of the HB from Nords, then send in your OLE for a second copy. Then you have one to play with, and one to frame! Actually, in my case, it's one copy for me, one for my son. I'm not mailing in my OLE until I've got a hardback in my hot little hands. Then I'll send in the OLE. It would be tough for a Mall store to have gaming space. The prices per square foot in those places are outrageous. They might get away with putting tables up outside the store for occasional demos or tournaments, but full-time gaming space is almost out of the question. Independent gaming stores in strip malls are going to be your best bet for full-time gaming space. If you have one in your area, make sure you frequent it and buy stuff, since really good stores of this type are a precious resource. I'm blessed to have three such stores in my local area.

Well, everyone, I made it to GenCon Indy and spent most of my time split between the Paint and Take area and the Reaper Demo area. I met Victoria, Haley and Lilli Troy, plus loads of others. Wren stopped by and said "Hi" (I have your picture of Lorrielle Silverrain - PM your address and I'll mail it). A fellow named Matt dropped and showed me the Monk he'd painted since I talked to him at Origins. I was deathly embarassed that I couldn't remember him, and I'd have apologized but he took off before I had much chance to talk to him. I had the chance to attend one of Haley's classes (it was AWESOME) and even look at one of her pieces up close. I met a guy named Steve who beat me in the Origins Adiken Painting Contest (he was first, I was third). Steve was also teaching some classes. Another person in the P&T area was David, a Golden Demon Medalist. It was cool talking to him and listening to him instruct other painters. Saturday morning Stephen treated most of the Reaper Demo crew to breakfast at IHOP. Well, more accurately, Reaper treated us to breakfast; Stephen had the plastic. Rob suggested we all get the "Rooty-Tooty Fresh and Fruity Breakfast." If you're wondering how that suggestion came up, imagine ten people in tie-dyed Reaper t-shirts, and you'll understand why. Paint and Take gave me a great chance to work on teaching basic painting. I must have explained "sidebrushing" 100 times over the course of the weekend. I dropped an entire bottle of silver paint on my tie-dyed shirt and jeans in the final minutes of the Speed Painting. Two things were fortunate - I had another shirt on under my Reaper, so I took off the tie-dye and kept painting. And when I ran to the bathroom, the paint came out of my shirt. I gave the pants up for lost; besides, I wasn't taking them off in a public bathroom to wash them out. Later on, the guy who won the round and one of his friends showed up and played Warlord. He was like, "Oh, were you the one who yelled 'elf!' at the end of the contest?" Then he killed my dragon. Oh, well, the Dragon is supposed to loose.... I don't know if they'll let me back in the Paint and Take ever again. The people I talked to stayed longer and kept coming back. Skewed there numbers for the weekend. I don't think I was totally responsible for that, though. It seemed a lot of people were trying to get in as much detail as possible and soak up as much painting instruction as they could. With so many great painters around (trust me, I was the runt of the litter on the other side of THAT table), who could resist? In the Reaper Demo area, I had the chance to play a big stompy dragon in the Warlord demos. Really freaked people out when the dragon started THROWING their Orcs. ORC BOWLING! Whoo-Hoo! I told the Freefal what I was doing, and he walked away shaking his head like, "You're sick woman, SICK!" All in all, I had a great weekend. It was a blast seeing Wren, Mengu, PaintMinion, Niceman, etc., etc. Being with the great Reaper BL folks again, like Stephen, LadyStorm, Freefall, Alex, Lord B, Tim, Rob, Jeremy, Jason - all you guys were wonderful. Especially helping poor carless me get back and forth from Motel 6. Hope we can do it again next year!

Cool, Bob, glad you had a good time and are ready to play the game. I don't know if you remember meeting me or not, my name IRL is Melanie.

I see your point, Froggy, but the book is a lot more than a collection of Stat cards. Having access to stat cards would make things easier and more convenient, but it doesn't replace having the book for knowing the rules of the game. If you could replace the book with stat cards, then it would be equally unethical to set up Warlord for Armybuilder, wouldn't it? That would have all the data on the models, not just their point costs. As far as an "unscrupulous" BL putting the info on line, well, for the data to available to other AO, it would have to be online somewhere so a link could be published on the BL resource page. A player who really wanted to could find - and hack - these resources anyway.

Having, say, an Excel file with all the appropriate stats, including updates, available to AOs would be a great boon. 1) Less data entry errors (my son has a great time finding these on the cards I've created) 2) The most recent versions of all published models would be available to the OAs for demos 3) It would make it easier and quicker for AOs to generate Play Lists for demos and tournaments. I've made some sample cards that fit easily into a standard gaming card sleeve for Magic Items and Equipment. I've started setting them up for the models, but if I had something I could use for a Cut and Paste, it would be a lot more accurate and much faster. Many of the model cards can be copied from the exsisting Demo Sheets; the only problem with those being that the leadership models are modified from the originals, and an AO might want to use the "pure" models for a starter event.

It seems to me that using the tactician abilty to pass an action and take a later one is NOT the same as holding to activate with another unit. You would still activate one unit with one card, not two or more with one card. The Coordinate special ability would work more like what I discribed, allowing separate units to activate at the same time. Maybe this could be an addition that could be purchased. Basically, the troups you wish to coordinate would buy a talisman that would allow them to communicate with each other and activate at the same time. Units with the Talisman of Cooperation would hold their actions when their card came up, and activate in concert with another unit. The Talisman would have to be bought by each unit that wished to cooperate, and would be held by the unit Leadership model. If the leader was destroyed, the Talisman would be lost. This could also be used to coordinate Solo models, like the Elven Centaurs or Dwarven Bear Cavalry. Each model would have a Talisman. This would provide a mechanic for unit activation on separate units or solo models. Models posessing Talismans could sacrifice having a card in the draw deck under the assumption that they would always activate together, negating the need for separate cards.

Were you at Origins? I remember talking to someone at Origins who was going to use Thunder Mountain figs to build a Warlord army. I also talked to a sculptor about learning to sculpt minis and paint. She went to the Paint and Take and did her first figurine at Origins. I think she was with the fellow who wanted to do make a TM Elf army. Her name was Terry or something like that. I'm terrible with names sometimes, so I could be wrong about that part. If you are the same guy, please say so. I hope you were able to get an OLE Warlord book if you are the same person.

Mounted knights, Whoo-Hoo! There are a couple of Lancers in the DHL line, and Vanessa Redstorm on horseback. These figs would make a great Cavalry unit for the crusaders. There's also a mounted skeleton, and a couple of Undead horses from the old Four Horsemen set. You could convert one of the Undead faction to mount it on an undead horse, and away you go! Elven Cavalry comprised of Centaur units. Man, the creative posibilites...

House rules are fine, unless you are doing a tournament. So I guess in official play you CAN'T hold actions, since it is NOT in the official rules?

OK, so the player chooses whichever unit he or she perceives to give the best advantage and activates THAT one when a significator comes up. Got it. Whether the significator is a NUMBER or a SUIT doesn't matter as much as making sure that play will flow smoothly and there's no confusion. Can a unit HOLD its action and activate in concert with another troup? Example: I've got a Centaur (a solo model) and a group of elves commanded by Selwyn. A card of my suit comes up. I declare that I'm assigning the movement to the Centaur, but he will hold his action until Selwyn's unit activates. My significator comes up again; now I activate Selwyn's unit and the Centaur to initiate a volley attack. Since none of my units has moved, I can use the Marksman ability to increase the AOE of my attack. The group makes its attack on a troup of Reven. Alternately, the Centaur holds his action for Selwyn's archers to activate. Instead of firing with the Elves, the Centaur takes his movement last so he can run up and loot the bodies of the fallen Reven.