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Posts posted by Cerridwyn1st

  1. The "too humid" problem applies to anything that you normally might spray on minis: primer, paint, and varnish (aka sealer).


    The tolerance of sprays to humidity varies. I've found that I'm generally okay with priming and varnishing up to about 65% humidity (Duplicolor primer and Krylon varnish) though the Krylon UV Resistant Matte goes on more satiny if the humidity is higher (I think).




    Humidity of 65%? In Florida? Doesn't happen. That's why I like using Tamiya and Duplicolor. The work even with Florida's beastly humidity. I primed minis in the middle of a hurricane with Duplicolor (what can I say, I was bored) and they were fine.

  2. Thanks Cerridwyn1st I was kinda thinking that and you pushed me over the top I still have a week to get him into batle condition for the tourney.

    Matsumoto we will definetly need to get together again and have a warlord only day I'll PM you some time.


    Thanks, Feanor. I love the wings. The color fade is beautiful. I also agree with EB that some brownlining on the belly scales would be nice. If you really want to go nuts, thin Scortched Metal to wash consistency. Use the thinned mixture on the belly scales. Apply a couple of layers, starting with the deepest recesses and working outwards with later layers. It would accentuate the scales and give a bit of depth.


    I like the green eyes. It really gives the dragon some character.

  3. The reference to getting your greens reminds me of a story I overheard in the classrooms at Gen Con. Apparently, one would-be sculptor advocated chewing the blue and yellow Kneadatite to get the proper blend. Yuck. I think I'll stick with using my fingers.


    The only thing I can think of that would be nastier than chewing Greenstuff would be trying the same thing with Apoxysculpt. That stuff is water soluble...

  4. You can still see a little of the blueish tinge in the lip color. Will you bring that up? A blueish tinge to the lips would really make her look like she's wearing some funky lipstick.


    Ummm, Mel, her lips are blue already...oh wait, you probably only saw the first pic. Heh. Yeah, I did it already, look at the most recent pic. ::): It's Blue Liner roughed up with a couple of highlights of Blue Liner and Pure White. ::):




    I saw both. I love the way you are bringing up the blue on the lips. Really cool. I wouldn't have thought blue lips would work, but on her it's great. It does look like she's wearing one of those funky lipstick colors.

  5. Welcome to the forums! Your examples remind me of my own first efforts. My friends encouraged me to keep going, because what I was doing was pretty good for the amount of time I'd been painting.


    Sounds like you are already light years ahead of the competition when it comes to prepping your minis. You know to clip, file, and wash before priming. Your minis look nice and clean in part because you've learned how to get a nice base to begin working from.


    You might make a screen print of what Vaitallia said. She has extensive experience with teaching. Hearing her teach a class at Gen Con was my inspiration for begining to teach classes myself.


    Primers do make a difference. For my "really good" stuff I use Tamiya or Floquil White. For everthing else (army stuff and Paint and Take figs) I use either Duplicolor Sandable White or Rustoleum Painter's Touch Sandable White. I rarely use black or gray primers.


    Since you are just getting started and only painting a few minis, I'd pop for the good stuff. Having a good base for your minis makes it much easier to paint. Tamiya can be bought at a store that sells modeling supplies for railroad and other hobbies. Just don't loose it when you see all the toys those railroad guys play with. You'll have to hang on to your wallet with both hands... ::):


    If there isn't a Railroad or Model hobby shop convenient to you, your friend in the store can order Floquil White for you from one of his suppliers. Both primers are expensive, but with the number of figures you are painting even a small can will last you a while.


    A couple of tips on priming:


    1) Warm the can about 15 minutes in hot tap water, then shake well.

    2) For now, it would be best to prime one mini at a time. Using cheap superglue to stick them on a bottlecap works pretty well. You can hold the bottle with the mini on top to help you prime.

    3) It's best to prime in two or more thin layers.

    4) Stroke the spray across the mini from a distance of about 8 inches. Use short bursts from a couple of different angles.

    5) If the primer looks really thick and glossy, you're spraying too long and too close. If it looks more like dust than paint, you're spraying from too far away.


    Don't stress about how well you are painting. You're doing just fine, and you'll get better as you go. Keep a couple of your first attempts to remind yourself of how far you've come.

  6. VMCs? Oh well. They look great, but I have all Reaper Masters. I will just have to try and find similar colors withthe RMS.


    It can be a real pain in the behind to get your hands on VMC. Most stores either don't carry it at all or have a limited selection, such as the boxed sets. Stores that have the entire line available are rare. There aren't any in easy driving distance of where I live. I only have so many VMC because I've been collecting a long time and aquired them either online or at conventions like Gen Con.


    Before the RMS line came out and early in its development, I talked with Anne about suggested colors. There are colors Anne suggested I try from the Vallejo Model Color series that have close analogs in the RMS set. The liner colors, for example. The German Camo Black Brown has a close analog in the Reaper Liner Brown. I can't say that Mahogany Sand has an exact duplicate, perhaps Anne can say. Maybe 9109 Ruddy Leather would do. The Reaper Line has an Orange Brown, and I think that either Faded Khaki or Palomino Gold would do for Brown Ochre.


    I'll look through my Reapers and see which colors of what I'm using have an RMS analog.

  7. I really like the bronze-esque look to the skin you have going on. I've noted that a lot of times Werner's sculpts could be done with African American skin tones and they look great. The high cheekbones, full lips and almond shaped eyes really imply that. I'm loving seeing her skin tones done with dark bronze.


    You can still see a little of the blueish tinge in the lip color. Will you bring that up? A blueish tinge to the lips would really make her look like she's wearing some funky lipstick.


    I get a kick out of hearing about people using Tamiya Fine White. I started talking about the stuff about three years ago. I think I mentioned it to you at the Origins where I met you. The reaction then was, "What's that?"


    It's cool to hear so many painters say they wouldn't use anything else on their top-end models.

  8. I completed the Gun Moll, VV. I keep meaning to set up my camera rig and take "good" pictures of her. Even a week and a half after getting back from Gen Con, my paint room is still in chaos. I take most of my WIP shots these days with my cell phone.


    I'm hoping I can get some good pix of the Gun Moll over the weekend and maybe post them online Monday evening.


    I like the way the shading is coming up on the Elf Lord's cloak.




    Shading is VMC Mahogany Brown mixed with VMC German Camo Black Brown. Highlights are Mahogany Sand with first VMC Orange Brown added in two stages and then VMC Brown Ochre and RMS Linen White.


    There is additional work on the hair as well. After more highlights with RMS Chestnut Gold, start highlighting RMS Palomino Gold. Mix RMS Pal Gold and RMS Linen White for more highlights. Wash again with the Muddy Brown/Sepia ink mix to tone and even the highlights.


    I'm not using any burgundy on this model. I think it would clash too much with the other colors. Burgundy and cream with maybe a little rose would be pretty, but bugundy with that russet color would look aweful, IMHO. The only other color I plan on using with this model would be bronze demi-metalics on the filegre. I'll use a steel color for the spear head but bronze for the guard and filegre running down the haft.


    I guess in the first post the un-highlighted cloak looks a little like burgundy, but after some highlights you can see it is more of a russet color.

  9. Funny you should mention that. On my return from Gen Con, I realized that I was missing one of my recipie cards. I saw some pretty blank books in an airport gift shop and bought one. The cool thing about this blank book is that it has a flap with a magnet that goes around the end of the book. This securely closes the book when it isn't in use.


    The book also has archival quality acid-free paper, so the paper itself will last a long time without degrading.


    I've been using the book to keep notes of the colors I'm using. The skin you see in the picture started with a base of VMC Brown Sand. Then I started layering with 50/50 Brown Sand and VMC Base Skintone. I've used Base Skintone in the past but thought it too reddish. I like the way Brown Sand tones it down and gives it a more realistic color.


    The brown cloak that you see is VMC Mahogany Sand. This was before any layering was done. I'll interject the colors I used for the shadow and highlights when I post updates. The off-white is 50/50 VMC Tan Earth and RMS Stained Ivory.


    The progression for the hair in this picture:


    Wash primed model with thinned VGC Sepia Ink. Layer RMS Chestnut Gold. Wash again with RMS Muddy Brown and Sepia Ink (50/50 mix). Continue layering RMS Chestnut Gold, then go to RMS Palomino Gold.

  10. If it makes you feel any better, I think Vallejo Model Color does have a color called "Fieldgrau", though it sounds like there is a lot of room for variance in this. It's a cool model with a nice paint job. Is this a game that Reaper is working on producing? Just curious as you did say you got the fig at ReaperCon.

  11. This is a bit off-topic, but it looks like you are using brush-on primer. I'd suggest a light coat of Dull Cote before you begin painting. It will make the primer less likely to rub off and will also form a layer between the primer and paint. I've had problems with brush-on primer sucking up paint so that it looks kind of dull after it dries a bit.

  12. I'll go with Hesler on this. When painting a pattern, be it camo or some other concept, the best thing to do is paint the pattern, then shade with glazes. Keep in mind that camoflague tends to be very flat; it won't reflect light much, if at all. You would see the general color with the shadow areas being darker.


    Your guys do look a little flat. You might want to work on shading the recesses a bit more so that the highlights will seem brighter. Do you have a real life example of the camo pattern? The pattern as you have it painted seems a bit odd, more like a patchwork than the mottled colors I'm used to seeing in cammo.

  13. I don't know about an art store, but have you tried a model hobby shop? For example, a place that sells train modeling supplies or the like. You can get Testor's Dull Cote in either spray or liquid. You can also get MicroScale Micro Flat matte sealer.


    If thinned with water and applied in two coats, you can't get much more matte than Micro Flat.


    Do NOT mix this stuff with your paint, however. The results are ugly.

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