Cerridwyn1st
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Posts posted by Cerridwyn1st
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Hey, Meg, what are you planning on doing with the skulls? The look a bit flat.
Glad your car is in the shop. Rentals can be such a drag. The whole thing with getting rear-ended has to suck.
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Maybe it's just my monitor, but the skin doesn't look quite right to me. I'm thinking you could use a wash to even out the skin tone, tie the layers together, and make the highlights look less abrupt.
I do like the way you've accentuated the top of the decollage' and breastbone.
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I like all the liners for darkening colors. Sometimes there isn't as much difference between the colors in a triad as I'd like. I want the shade just a touch darker and the highlight just a touch lighter. The liner colors often work better than black because they are a very dark shade of the color I'm using.
I like the Reaper off-whites for the same reason. Linen white is the color most often mentioned, but I like Ghost White for blues and Leather White for things that have more of a greyish hue.
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I would want to use a paint-on primer to preserve the texture, and just use it in the model. It would probably look pretty cool when it was done. If it didn't then I'd strip and start over.
As eastman said, if you really want to get rid of the texture, Apoxysculpt can work wonders.
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Could we get a picture from the side? All of these seem to be from above the mini.
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Angorak, you output never ceases to impress me. Those are some fantastic looking undead minis.
I love the bases as well, very simple but very cool.
Just so everyone knows...practically everything I paint is destined for the gaming table. Whether it be Roleplaying or Miniature Gaming. Therefore the basing will be simple and sometimes even basic...lol
To date I haven't ever done any "Showcase" minis.
If those are tabletop, I'd REALLY like to see what it looks like when you pull out all the stops.
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The only thing they both share, is we never got either of them declawed, so they are dangerous when mad
Have fun with three kittens at once, get them collars with bells so you know where they are, then learn to dread the sound of bells running at you (spoken from experience).My cats aren't declawed either. The other thing to dread is the crash in the middle of the night. At least now I have a dog, so if it was a bugler and not one of the cats, I'd hear the dog start barking.
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Who paints their minis' eyes, and who uses micron pens - or some other method. Is micron a brand or type and any suggestions on where to get them. Thanks.
I'm definitely thinking of going that way. Save me a step since I won't have to whittle down toothpicks :-D
Toothpicks? Oy! Gonna have to show you a thing or two... Take some time off the RPG table and learn to paint.
What? It works. One precise black dot exactly where I want it, no muss, no fuss. :)
I used toothpicks a long time ago. Since my brush skills have gotten better, I haven't used a toothpick in a very long time. Though maybe in those gods-aweful poorly lit convention halls I should...
It's really just a matter of practice. Good brush, good paint consistency, good technique. When it all comes together eyes are not that bad.
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Well, Orcsoul, I'm glad you came to the demo on Saturday. It was good to meet you. I like to sit down and paint with other people. Yeah, I like to teach, but it is great when you can get together a group of people to paint together and share ideas. I hope you will continue to join us.
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FYI, you should hold the can about 8 - 10 inches from the mini and lightly stroke the can across while you spray. This will leave a light coating but won't allow the stuff to "air dry" before it hits the mini. A couple light coats from a proper distance is better than one heavy coat.
I've used the GW matte. It is not as matte as Dull Cote, but I've never had the results you mention. I think the problem is that you are holding the model too far from the spray.
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I frequently use the MSP paints to teach drybrushing. While they may not be the best suited to the technique, they work well enough that I've been pretty successful teaching new painters.
OK, here's my two cents on drybrushing, after finally mastering the technique and teaching it to may others. First, don't thin the paint. I'm sure that will cause some discord right there, but I'll paraphrase Anne on this one, "if you are going to thin the paint, you might as well be layering."
Second, be VERY picky about the brush you are using. For my money, the best is a Floquil #3 sable flat. It really is more of a "bright" than a flat, in that it has shorter bristles. If you don't have one of these, then a synthetic bright from Michaels is also a good choice. The Reaper synthetic flats are really good too. If you have a "trashed" synthetic round that's fairly large, you can cut down the bristles and that will work too.
DON'T use a nice sable round to try to drybrush. It will wreck the brush and the results will look like crap.
Be careful about the color transistions. If the look is chalky, one of your problems is that you've made two abrupt of a color change. A good technique is to paint your base coat, apply your wash with a darker color, and then begin drybrushing with the base coat. Make sure that the previous layers are completely dry before you begin to drybrush or you will rub off the earlier layers of paint.
The other reason to have a chalky result is that you are over doing it. You are applying a brush with too much paint. Load just the very tip of the bristles with paint, then blot the brush on a towel, spounge or cloth before applying it to the mini. Brush in one direction from light source to shadow, do not rub back and forth. It should feel like you are dusting a delicate object.
Thirdly, use progressive layers of lighter color. DO NOT RINSE the brush between layers. After your base and wash have dried, first apply your original base coat color as a light drybrush. Blend in a lighter color (just a little) and drybrush again. With each layer, blot the brush more agressively and touch the mini more lightly.
Also keep in mind that you don't want to overpaint. If you are highligthing fur, keep in mind that the same rules for light and shadow will apply. Your lightest color should be applied sparingly, and only to the areas closest to the light source.
Good luck with your painting. I hope this helps.
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VL, your stuff gets better and better all the time. You work full-time as a miniature artist, correct?
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Oops, didn't realize I was signed in a Sivrel.
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I dunno if I'll move as fast as either of you, but I'll try to keep up
I'm ordering my Monique in the next week or two, so I should have it by the time GenCon's over and done with. It'll be my first 54mm figure so I'm kinda excited, bigger figure means more room to play!I'll be working on my exchange minis (one for Meg and one for the summer exchange) between now and then. Heh... Mel we could do a 'Painting for Fieldarchy' WiP so she can keep an eye on the pair of us
I doubt you'll have any trouble keeping up. I'm not that fast of a painter unless it's tabletop.
"Painting for Fieldarchy" - that sounds like fun. Knowing Meg, she'll post WIP of her own. What mini are you working on for the exchange? Meg and I are exchanging the High Elf King by W. Klocke.
Umm... well I'm sending Meg a Waggamaeph to paint for me and I'm still kind of undecided on what to paint for her, since it's going to be sort of an assessment type swap. I get a really cool wagga and she gets a mini that will give her an idea of what I need to improve on. I bought a CW mini that looked fun, but I've also got a couple of elves I'd like to paint, and my best mini yet has been Turanil so... I'm indecisive as ever :)
Think about the things that give you trouble when you paint, then pick a piece with lots of that. Paint and send it. That way, she has an evaluation piece that will help her address where you need the most help. That make sense?
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Yes I know where wardogs is at, however at present I still don't have any actual paints as I ran into that damnable financial barrier, but I wasn't aware they had anything like that.. I"ll definately make it a point to attend. What time is it supposed to begin? Is 2pm the official start time, or the time you manage to show up more or less? However don't want to hijack or derail this thread any further either, so might take this privately?
You don't need paints, a mini, brushes, or anything else. I have all of that for people to use at the P&T. Yes to both - 2pm is the official start time and more or less when I wander in.
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Who paints their minis' eyes, and who uses micron pens - or some other method. Is micron a brand or type and any suggestions on where to get them. Thanks.
I'm definitely thinking of going that way. Save me a step since I won't have to whittle down toothpicks :-D
Toothpicks? Oy! Gonna have to show you a thing or two... Take some time off the RPG table and learn to paint.
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For the most part, I use a brush. The trick is to get a sable brush with a really sharp point, not necessarily one with very little hair. If anything, the fabled "one hair brush" is impractical. The paint will dry on the brush before you can apply it to the figure. The paint must be the right consistency, so it will go onto the mini but not flood.
I needed to add pupils to the eyes of a Reaper cat familiar recently. I used a micron pen at .005 for that.
The ink in micron pens is water-soluble. It would be a very good idea to seal the mini right after you apply the micron pen, if that's what you want to do. A light dusting of Dull Cote would do the trick if you intend to continue working on the mini after painting the eyes. -
I too am in jacksonville... gonna be attending the paint and takes both mornings at rapier (hopefully.. 9am.. egads!)
What exactly is a BL?
Cool, Orc. I plan on running a class, not just P&T, on Sunday. I'd love to have you attend. Please introduce yourself when you get to Rapier. As for what's a BL. looks like DD beat me to it.
Do you have any plans for Saturday afternoon? There is a monthly painting clinic at War Dogs. You're welcome to join me. I get there sometime around 2pm. Don't be surprised if I'm late...
If you are not familiar with War Dogs, it is located in the strip mall next to Rowe's at the corner of Beach and University on the South Side.
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I use cheap superglue for the bottlecap mount. It will hold as long as I want it to. I haven't had much success with other adhesives.
The Flow Improver that others refer to as part of their "gunk" mixtures would be one from Golden, Liquitex or Windsor Newton. These formulas are NOT pre thinned, which is why it is crucial to thin them as part of the mix. The Reaper Flow Improver is pre-thinned for use with RMS paints. If all you use is the Flow Improver, then you might want to stick with the pre-thinned RMS one. Much easier that way. I'd also suggest getting an extra dropper or two for use with distilled water.
My personal "gunk" mix is 20% Matte Medium, 10% Golden Flow Release and 70% distilled water. I will also use a similar recipe with Gloss Sealer instead of Matte Medium for metallic paints and a cheap version that uses Modge Podge Matte instead of Matte Medium.
Delver, whereabouts in Florida are you? It would probably do you a world of good to attend a painting instruction with one of the BL's in Florida. I'm in Jacksonville. I recruited about 75% of the active BL's in the state, so I can put you in touch with someone if you would like.
There are active BL's in Jacksonville, Orlando, Avon Park, and I think there's at least one in South Florida.
There will be Paint and Take set up at the following conventions: Rapier 2007, Hurricon, RECON, Necronomicon, and Megacon. Megacon will have guest teachers (myself included). Last year our guest was Jeff Wilhelm and AFAIK he'll be back.
Yeah, I make sure to hit the P&Ts if for nothing else than free minis ;) no, srsly, I'm pretty actively involved in the HMGS so I "do" AD&D RP events at their shows so I'm usually tied up at those...I'm in Orlando, BTW.
Do you know Kamal Batemon? He's a buddy of mine.
It's not a huge deal, the painting, I mean...tonight when I logged in to the boards up there in the upper right corner in the Reaper logo was someone's rendition of the "Naughty Fairy". I'm a father of one (soon to be two), stay-at-home dad - I won't be painting anything like that, ever. No time! I'm just happy that I've found an acceptable medium between "so good I'm barred from the Golden Demon compo" and "zomg awful." levels of painting.
That's what the three colors plus ink gives me, really.
Don't get me wrong - I'd LIKE to be able to paint like that, but...
Of course I know Kamal. I met him at Hurricon, recruited him into Black Lightning, and he's helped at RECON and MegaCon. I look forward to seeing you at Hurricon. Hoping my money will allow me to attend.
Maybe I should put out a tip jar so I can afford to eat while I'm there.What has Kamal been up to lately? I haven't heard from him in a while. Please ask him to drop me a line.
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I hope some of you guys have signed up for classes with Anne at Gen Con. She is an awesome teacher and was my inspiration to begin teaching myself.
See ya in Indy, Anne!
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I use cheap superglue for the bottlecap mount. It will hold as long as I want it to. I haven't had much success with other adhesives.
The Flow Improver that others refer to as part of their "gunk" mixtures would be one from Golden, Liquitex or Windsor Newton. These formulas are NOT pre thinned, which is why it is crucial to thin them as part of the mix. The Reaper Flow Improver is pre-thinned for use with RMS paints. If all you use is the Flow Improver, then you might want to stick with the pre-thinned RMS one. Much easier that way. I'd also suggest getting an extra dropper or two for use with distilled water.
My personal "gunk" mix is 20% Matte Medium, 10% Golden Flow Release and 70% distilled water. I will also use a similar recipe with Gloss Sealer instead of Matte Medium for metallic paints and a cheap version that uses Modge Podge Matte instead of Matte Medium.
Delver, whereabouts in Florida are you? It would probably do you a world of good to attend a painting instruction with one of the BL's in Florida. I'm in Jacksonville. I recruited about 75% of the active BL's in the state, so I can put you in touch with someone if you would like.
There are active BL's in Jacksonville, Orlando, Avon Park, and I think there's at least one in South Florida.
There will be Paint and Take set up at the following conventions: Rapier 2007, Hurricon, RECON, Necronomicon, and Megacon. Megacon will have guest teachers (myself included). Last year our guest was Jeff Wilhelm and AFAIK he'll be back.
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It looks like there is a pattern on the Necromancer's cloak. Is that part of the sculpt, something you painted in, or do my eyes deceive me?
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Whiz, I hope you won't get insulted and quit posting. I like reading what you have to say.
Nah. I'm here. Anne and I had a lovely conversation about the subject. And I agree things can get out of control... and, yes... I can be part of the off-topic problem, too. I just got a little devil in me
That said, I like a mix, too, Cerri. But Anne's right... joking's good as long as there's substance accompanying the humor. We should all bear that in mind.Now then... LW... Glad to hear that all that succubus mounting worked out for you. No innuendo there, Anne. Really.
Life is about balance, Phil. Too much of anything is bad. Except maybe chocolate...
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Sue:
Is that anything like the method Richard was showing us last year? The one he used with the Necrons? That looked really awesome. Seeing that was why I've started with a base for metalics of ink/paint/gloss sealant and layering up from that.
What did you use for the white? White paint with metal mixed in, or a white metalic like RMS Pearl White?
Mel
I don't know what Rich did. And I do use the metallic medium as my "silver" sometimes, and then mixed regular white with that.
He starts with a base that is usually ink or a dark paint, with only a little metal added. He layers up, progressively lightening the mix with his metalic. Hearing him talk about his method lead me to start using a "mix" as my base for metals and laying up. I have a black mix for silver/steel and a dark brown mix for gold/brass.
Quick and dirty method is to use Adimantine Black (for silver/steele) or Scorched Metal (for glold/brass) thinned to wash consistency and layering up from that.
Me Time
in Show Off: Painting
Posted
I saw these while you were waiting to enter them. I remember commenting that I thought the dragon was cool, but the blending on the wings could be a little better. I thought the diorama was vey humorous.
Congrats on your win with the diorama. It was a wonderful piece.