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Splurch

Bones Supporter
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About Splurch

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  1. Lost a lot of respect for them as a company after TGG2 and figured they might be trying to turn a different leaf for this campaign. After the big deal they made in the promotional material about how inexpensive this would be and it's wide array of uses... for it to be so overpriced and really single use just shows they haven't learned anything. This KS seems more like they simply want to make the terrain for themselves and are trying to lower costs by offering it on KS.
  2. Their last answer about Jessica and a weapon arm seems a little confusing, " @Bogdan Papuse In this exclusive version for the KS is not possible, we are sorry. We already have a version with the arm of the weapon. Thank you for your comments." It sounds like the KS exclusive busts will be released later with different arms? Or is this just a translation error on their part.
  3. I've done only the barest testing with non sealed bones, it seemed to hold up well, but I still want the protection of varnish. For bones, part of it is definitely a peace of mind thing. Having that extra layer of protection makes me a lot more comfortable with using them on the table ;) Up until the recent tacky issue, there was also no reason not to seal them, so no downside to that protection.
  4. I'm using the red label high gloss varnish, well aware of the difference between their varnish and medium/varnish.
  5. I don't have any experience with testors brush on, but Liquitex matte works better the thinner coat you use. Putting it through an airbrush and barely putting any on at all and it does an amazing job of killing the shine. It is much harder to put on this small amount using a brush. You might have better luck if you try vallejo's matte varnish. It is pretty much identical to liquitex for killing the shine but seems to be a little more forgiving for brush application (and a little harder for good airbrush application.) The big key though is just use much less matte sealer. Most gloss sealer
  6. In regards to not varnishing, the two big reasons I varnish are to protect against scratches (which may be rare, but varnish does a great job protecting against) and because the wash I use has a gloss sheen. I would have to use a different wash, which I could live with. Without varnish though I'd just be very concerned about damage from scratches. Even if they are rare, I want protection against them for peace of mind at the least.
  7. Yeah, I have too, but eventually sorted them out. It seems 100% fine on non bones material, and was fine for a while after it was applied to bones. I really like the way their varnishes flow through an airbrush and provide a solid seal, at least up until now. What do you currently use? At the moment I finish my minis with a quite thin coat of Golden High Solid Gel (Gloss) and after a day's drying a thin coat of Golden Soft Gel (Matte). Neither of these are intended as final varnishes (but then that's true of most mediums which we use as varnishes), and I am contemplating experimenting with oth
  8. Well that is massively disappointing but good to know I'm not the only one who has encountered it. Do you know of any varnish that can be applied through an airbrush that don't have this issue? Any idea if I apply my liquitex matte varnish at this point if the reaction will simply continue?
  9. Yeah, that was pretty much my reaction. I've never had a varnish become tacky after it had completely cured. My initial thoughts was that it was the wash just taking a while to react, but the fact that the metal/resin/plastic are just fine eliminates that as the sole cause. I will probably just matte one this week, see if it fixes the problem and if it does, just keep periodically checking it for a while to see if it turns tacky again. I'm kind of at a loss for why it is happening and somewhat worried about my other bones now. So how long did you allow your paint to cure before applying t
  10. Yeah, that was pretty much my reaction. I've never had a varnish become tacky after it had completely cured. My initial thoughts was that it was the wash just taking a while to react, but the fact that the metal/resin/plastic are just fine eliminates that as the sole cause. I will probably just matte one this week, see if it fixes the problem and if it does, just keep periodically checking it for a while to see if it turns tacky again. I'm kind of at a loss for why it is happening and somewhat worried about my other bones now. So how long did you allow your paint to cure before applying th
  11. Yeah, that was pretty much my reaction. I've never had a varnish become tacky after it had completely cured. My initial thoughts was that it was the wash just taking a while to react, but the fact that the metal/resin/plastic are just fine eliminates that as the sole cause. I will probably just matte one this week, see if it fixes the problem and if it does, just keep periodically checking it for a while to see if it turns tacky again. I'm kind of at a loss for why it is happening and somewhat worried about my other bones now.
  12. I seal my miniatures with Liquitex High Gloss Varnish through an airbrush and then do a matte coat. Last year, I put a number of figures away sealed with gloss but did not get around to putting a matte coat on them. Figures were primed with Badger Stynylrez, had several paint brands used on them and washed with an ink/liquitex medium/flow improver/slow dri home made mix. Some of these figures were Reaper Bones, some were not. They were all kept in a display case that, while not airproof, does keep dust out and is not in direct sunlight. The metal, resin and hard plastic figures have cured just
  13. The Alea Tools markers are really great, only ever have an issues if you have a large stack of them under a mini with another mini that has some, the fields start to push them apart. I managed to get in on their kickstarter and am quite happy with how they function, problems aside.
  14. Litko makes magnetic bottoms that, while not deep enough, work well. They have two types, flex steel and magnetic. Magnetic is as you would expect and acts as a magnet. Flex steel does not have a magnetic field but is magnetic. I have some alea tools magnetic markers and they work well when I use flex steel under a reaper base. I don't have any experience with the actual magnetic bottoms so I don't know if it is strong enough to hold for transport. Both types are rather thin, so may not be adequate for what you are after. If the magnets you have are strong enough though you can probably get th
  15. Liquitex makes a gloss varnish that works very well. I spray it undiluted in a .5 needle at about 15psi and as long as you put enough on for a smooth wet surface to form it works fantastically and dries to the touch within a few minutes. Even if you accidentally apply too much it will dry clear. It is also quite good for using on bones and other flexible minis as while it is strong when dried it is still flexible and won't crack from being bent. One of the larger advantages of Liquitex is that it is also availabe in sizes from 4 oz to a gallon, so if you plan on buying a lot you can save quite
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