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Splurch

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Splurch

  1. Lost a lot of respect for them as a company after TGG2 and figured they might be trying to turn a different leaf for this campaign. After the big deal they made in the promotional material about how inexpensive this would be and it's wide array of uses... for it to be so overpriced and really single use just shows they haven't learned anything. This KS seems more like they simply want to make the terrain for themselves and are trying to lower costs by offering it on KS.
  2. Their last answer about Jessica and a weapon arm seems a little confusing, " @Bogdan Papuse In this exclusive version for the KS is not possible, we are sorry. We already have a version with the arm of the weapon. Thank you for your comments." It sounds like the KS exclusive busts will be released later with different arms? Or is this just a translation error on their part.
  3. I've done only the barest testing with non sealed bones, it seemed to hold up well, but I still want the protection of varnish. For bones, part of it is definitely a peace of mind thing. Having that extra layer of protection makes me a lot more comfortable with using them on the table ;) Up until the recent tacky issue, there was also no reason not to seal them, so no downside to that protection.
  4. I'm using the red label high gloss varnish, well aware of the difference between their varnish and medium/varnish.
  5. I don't have any experience with testors brush on, but Liquitex matte works better the thinner coat you use. Putting it through an airbrush and barely putting any on at all and it does an amazing job of killing the shine. It is much harder to put on this small amount using a brush. You might have better luck if you try vallejo's matte varnish. It is pretty much identical to liquitex for killing the shine but seems to be a little more forgiving for brush application (and a little harder for good airbrush application.) The big key though is just use much less matte sealer. Most gloss sealer can be slathered on with abandon and will turn out still being clear (although it won't protect as well as multiple, thin coats would.) Applying matte in the same way, as you've seen, can end up with all sorts of poor results, with either a semi-gloss sheen with a matte sealer or kind of a hazy look being the biggest two issues if too much is used. Your first images of the matte applied show these problems :( The druid on the left has a very thin layer of liquitex matte applied through an airbrush over a gloss coat, the troll on the right just has a gloss coat.
  6. In regards to not varnishing, the two big reasons I varnish are to protect against scratches (which may be rare, but varnish does a great job protecting against) and because the wash I use has a gloss sheen. I would have to use a different wash, which I could live with. Without varnish though I'd just be very concerned about damage from scratches. Even if they are rare, I want protection against them for peace of mind at the least.
  7. Yeah, I have too, but eventually sorted them out. It seems 100% fine on non bones material, and was fine for a while after it was applied to bones. I really like the way their varnishes flow through an airbrush and provide a solid seal, at least up until now. What do you currently use? At the moment I finish my minis with a quite thin coat of Golden High Solid Gel (Gloss) and after a day's drying a thin coat of Golden Soft Gel (Matte). Neither of these are intended as final varnishes (but then that's true of most mediums which we use as varnishes), and I am contemplating experimenting with other finishes. I have found that even with these my Bones have a slightly waxy feel under the fingers, not quite sticky but perhaps just a touch rubbery compared to the dry feeling my painted pewter and hard plastic minis have. A touch rubbery is a good description for how bones feel after varnish.
  8. Well that is massively disappointing but good to know I'm not the only one who has encountered it. Do you know of any varnish that can be applied through an airbrush that don't have this issue? Any idea if I apply my liquitex matte varnish at this point if the reaction will simply continue?
  9. Yeah, that was pretty much my reaction. I've never had a varnish become tacky after it had completely cured. My initial thoughts was that it was the wash just taking a while to react, but the fact that the metal/resin/plastic are just fine eliminates that as the sole cause. I will probably just matte one this week, see if it fixes the problem and if it does, just keep periodically checking it for a while to see if it turns tacky again. I'm kind of at a loss for why it is happening and somewhat worried about my other bones now. So how long did you allow your paint to cure before applying the varnish? Did you shake up your varnish gently and apply in a thin coat? What kind of Matte are you using? Spray or brush on? Paint cure time varies, but its a minimum of days. Some were sitting for weeks before I varnished them. Varnish was shaken a bit, nothing too vigorous but also not all that gently. I know I apply it in slightly thicker coat then I probably should, essentially I slowly apply it until it forms a consistent wet coat. Matte will be liquitex matte (brush on) through an airbrush and has not yet been applied. A trick people have done when their figures have primer that is tacky is to hit it with some matte coat which seems to stop that tackiness. Perhaps try this and see if it does the same for your problem. I'm thinking either you have a bad batch of varnish or it's reacting to the bones material. Yeah, I think it's reacting to the bones material rather then a bad batch as the non bones are fine, and if that is the case, it is doing so through primer/paint. The length of time to react just seems odd, especially since it had cured. I plan to use liquitex matte varnish on it, just wanted to make a post before I proceeded and risked making the problem worse. I've seen the posts about matte fixing a tacky mini, but none of them about a mini that had turned tacky after being fine, so I want to proceed with a bit of caution ;)
  10. Yeah, that was pretty much my reaction. I've never had a varnish become tacky after it had completely cured. My initial thoughts was that it was the wash just taking a while to react, but the fact that the metal/resin/plastic are just fine eliminates that as the sole cause. I will probably just matte one this week, see if it fixes the problem and if it does, just keep periodically checking it for a while to see if it turns tacky again. I'm kind of at a loss for why it is happening and somewhat worried about my other bones now. So how long did you allow your paint to cure before applying the varnish? Did you shake up your varnish gently and apply in a thin coat? What kind of Matte are you using? Spray or brush on? Paint cure time varies, but its a minimum of days. Some were sitting for weeks before I varnished them. Varnish was shaken a bit, nothing too vigorous but also not all that gently. I know I apply it in slightly thicker coat then I probably should, essentially I slowly apply it until it forms a consistent wet coat. Matte will be liquitex matte (brush on) through an airbrush and has not yet been applied. Yeah, I have too, but eventually sorted them out. It seems 100% fine on non bones material, and was fine for a while after it was applied to bones. I really like the way their varnishes flow through an airbrush and provide a solid seal, at least up until now. What do you currently use?
  11. Yeah, that was pretty much my reaction. I've never had a varnish become tacky after it had completely cured. My initial thoughts was that it was the wash just taking a while to react, but the fact that the metal/resin/plastic are just fine eliminates that as the sole cause. I will probably just matte one this week, see if it fixes the problem and if it does, just keep periodically checking it for a while to see if it turns tacky again. I'm kind of at a loss for why it is happening and somewhat worried about my other bones now.
  12. I seal my miniatures with Liquitex High Gloss Varnish through an airbrush and then do a matte coat. Last year, I put a number of figures away sealed with gloss but did not get around to putting a matte coat on them. Figures were primed with Badger Stynylrez, had several paint brands used on them and washed with an ink/liquitex medium/flow improver/slow dri home made mix. Some of these figures were Reaper Bones, some were not. They were all kept in a display case that, while not airproof, does keep dust out and is not in direct sunlight. The metal, resin and hard plastic figures have cured just fine and are not sticky at all. Even the bases of the bones figures, which are green stuff or plastic are not sticky. Only the bones figures themselves have become tacky. Some are barely sticky, some are so sticky I can press my finger to them and life the figure up without fear of it falling. I don't know when the problem happened, but the figures were sealed at various points last year and some had no issues for at least weeks after being sealed. Other bones painted at the time that were not sealed do not have this issue. The problem seems to be some kind of reaction with the bones material and the liquitex high gloss varnish that happens through the primer/paint. I've only read up on issues with them becoming tacky when aerosols that react with the bones material. I'm concerned if I matte them, the tackyness will just come through again. I had some issues with the same problem with Liquitex High Gloss and bones a few years ago when I started using it. After some change in application/use I eventually got it to work without issue (or at least with no immediate issue.) Has anyone else experienced your bones becoming tacky months after being sealed with no issues beforehand? Any idea why it is happening or if there is something I can do to fix and/or prevent it?
  13. The Alea Tools markers are really great, only ever have an issues if you have a large stack of them under a mini with another mini that has some, the fields start to push them apart. I managed to get in on their kickstarter and am quite happy with how they function, problems aside.
  14. Litko makes magnetic bottoms that, while not deep enough, work well. They have two types, flex steel and magnetic. Magnetic is as you would expect and acts as a magnet. Flex steel does not have a magnetic field but is magnetic. I have some alea tools magnetic markers and they work well when I use flex steel under a reaper base. I don't have any experience with the actual magnetic bottoms so I don't know if it is strong enough to hold for transport. Both types are rather thin, so may not be adequate for what you are after. If the magnets you have are strong enough though you can probably get the flex steel, put those on the bottom of your bases and attach the current magnets to whatever transport you use. This should provide a strong bond when you are moving them but since the flex steel has no magnetic field itself would not interfere in using the mini's at all.
  15. Liquitex makes a gloss varnish that works very well. I spray it undiluted in a .5 needle at about 15psi and as long as you put enough on for a smooth wet surface to form it works fantastically and dries to the touch within a few minutes. Even if you accidentally apply too much it will dry clear. It is also quite good for using on bones and other flexible minis as while it is strong when dried it is still flexible and won't crack from being bent. One of the larger advantages of Liquitex is that it is also availabe in sizes from 4 oz to a gallon, so if you plan on buying a lot you can save quite a bit of money from volume. Liquitex also make a matte that works quite well but can be problematic if you over spray, although that tends to happen with mattes. Apply it after the gloss for a matte finish and the two combined provide a great deal of protection and has the advantage that if the matte coat starts to wear off from handling/time it is easy to figure out and reapply. Know that any dilution of any gloss coat will create weaker protection. Frankly I'm not entirely sure how much dilution it takes to weaken enough to actually matter, just know that it is a concern.
  16. That person is wrong, Dullcote is a protective layer. The difference between protection from gloss/matt is very, very minor. The important part about protecting miniatures is to do multiple thin layers, especially when it comes to metal. The general accepted way is to do a layer of gloss, then a layer of matte. Besides putting 2 coats on a mini, one of the biggest advantages of doing it this way is you can tell when the matte is wearing off as the gloss will shine through. I don't use it myself but I've read that dullcoat can reactivate oil based gloss when applied so use an acryllic based gloss (duplicolor, krylon, pretty much all miniature brands, etc) underneath.
  17. I actually looked into this a bit ago as I had the same opinion about matte coats in that I couldn't find a good flat and what people claimed was flat was really satin. Most varnishes I've encountered claiming to be matte are really just low satin. The exception I have found is Vallejo Matte Varnish and Golden Matte Varnish. Both of these will give you a dead flat (although Golden says on the bottle not for handling or something equivalent.) The biggest problem I've encountered using either of them is that when handled they eventually turn glossy. Not from wearing the coat off, but just from being touched a lot. If you don't plan on handling and just want a protective coat use Vallejo (it's particularly good through an airbrush as well). If you do plan on handling then you're probably going to have to settle for a satin. I am still searching for a matt that can withstand handling or some way to make Vallejo hold up to it, but have had no luck so far.
  18. It's on their Gel & Medium Review page where they discuss the difference between varnishes and medium/gel. They do mention GAC 500 specifically there for being particularly suited as an isolation coat.
  19. Reading up on their site they recommend using their mediums as a isolation coat between the paint and varnish at most as the medium's aren't designed to be a top coat and won't protect as effectively. As the paint itself isn't having a tacky problem do you think using it as an isolation layer is likely to help?
  20. It's definitely not a drying thing as some of the test pieces I've left a week between painting/sealing etc. So it's somewhat normal for the gloss to be minorly sticky? I've been trying a lot of different varnishes as well, I've actually found Liquitex Satin to be the best to kill shine for a mini to be used (currently testing Vallejo's Satin as well). The Liquitex Satin isn't all that flat, but it is a far cry from gloss and more importantly doesn't change its sheen all that much with handling. Vallejo and Golden both make a matte that is absolutely flat after being applied, but after use they almost becomes glossy in sheen. Good if I wanted to protect a show mini, but just not useful for something that will see play. I may check out the Golden medium you suggested. The paint itself isn't having any tack issues but I have been trying to find a way to make a harder surface (at least for non bones minis). My old mini's were sealed with games workshop spray sealer, which I have to say is the hardest stuff I have encountered so far (can't even get the paint off my old stuff with a fingernail) and I just haven't been able to find anything that comes close to that durability. I'd honestly still be using it if it didn't randomly decide to frost every so often and just destroy hours of work. Think there would be any issues with putting a drop of GAC 200 into the brush on varnish? Definitely for more experimentation. I've been trying many different sealers for months now trying to find out something I'm satisfied with. I've now got a decent number of mini's that are painted and just sitting there unprotected waiting for me to sort out the varnish issues ;)
  21. I've been encountering some problems in a search for a new varnish. Mostly on leftover sprues that I've painted up just to test varnish. I started painting off and on again last year and eventually decided I had enough of spray sealers and wanted to go brush on/airbrush. I haven't moved on to the airbrush stage yet as I've been having problems actually finding a varnish. I've got two that seem to work well for the gloss coat, Liquitex High Gloss Varnish and Vallejo Gloss Varnish. Occasionally a coat will stay very slightly tacky after it has dried (multiple days). Sometimes (but very rarely) it dries just fine. At first I thought it might be my wash, as I'm following instructions to make Lester Bursley's washes. After some testing I did realize that with too much brushing the ink can reactivate, but doesn't always cause the tacky problem. I give the paint multiple days to dry before sealing. I've tried very thin layers, thick layers, watered down layers, multiple layers etc and all have the same, occasional problem. The gloss coat is just occasionally slightly tacky. Now this isn't super tacky, just to the point that when I press down with a finger it will stick to it for a second or two then fall off (longer when it happens with bones, due to their lightness). Even the ones that don't end up tacky exhibit this, but fall off almost instantly. Also, after they have cured, if I leave a piece touching another piece for a few days they will stick to each other slightly. I never had this problem with sprays. I haven't been able to find any problem like this online. Is this something inherent in the formula of gloss brush ons that sprays don't exhibit? Is it likely to stop if I airbrush it on? Putting a satin/matt coat (also liquitex/vallejo brush on) over the gloss does reduce this stickyness drastically, especially in the ones that are particularly bad. It only completely eliminates it in some of them.
  22. Ah, that sounds more accurate as the paint on them adheres better then anything else I've seen. Thanks for the input :)
  23. So I've been looking for a good sealer for a while and while I've found one I'm happy with the thought crossed my mind that prepainted miniatures (D&D, Mechwarrior, Mage Knight etc) have a rather amazing sealer. I've tried to scrape paint off of several in the past and have had no effect. Anyone know if it's just the sealer? Some combo of the paint they use that interacts with the plastic? Have any theories?
  24. I'd recommend getting a Porcelain Palette, they are actually pretty inexpensive. http://www.dickblick.com/products/rectangular-porcelain-palette/ is what I use and I love it. Cleaning them is a matter of letting it soak for a few minutes and wiping off with a paper tower and is ridiculously easy. For plastic you really need to clean it asap otherwise it's a nightmare. If you're really attached to using the plastic one what you can do is put aluminum foil over it and then discard the foil after use. You get the shape of the palette and can just discard the foil.
  25. Did some further testing with rubbing with a cloth/finger. Reaper, Vallejo and Golden mattes all encounter this turn to satin/gloss effect. Liquitex matte does as well, but it resists much better, although that may be because its initial stage is more of a satin already.
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