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About Gamgan

  • Birthday 03/14/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Puerto Rico
  • Interests
    Diving, Heroscape, Modding and Painting Minis

Gamgan's Achievements


Instigator (4/8)



  1. Been a while since I update! I had been planning on doing this ever since I got the game a few months ago but when I saw Bum Kim's Zombicide thread, and his videos, it kickstarted my interest in doing mine. I had started with some random items but didn't start on the walls until this week. Take a look at Bum Kim's great looking board over at his thread here: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1606395/3d-walls-cmon-games Make sure to watch the videos, they are worth it. I had already done stuff like make hammers for the Hammer Quest, and replaced my exploration tokens with mega blok treasure chest and made potions with polymer clay. (First few post) This is what our game board looked like with just a few added "upgrades" Nothing special. First I laid out a few blocks to try and figure out how many walls I would need and what type. Then just started casting, and casting and casting. These are Hirst arts rubble and field stone molds. Organized them to see how many I would need and what kind. Dice landing all over the place so also started building a dice tower from the tutorial over at Hirst Arts. Lots of little parts but was pretty easy to do following the online guide. At first didn't know I would need 20!!!! Door ways. Ouch. Tried to make one that looked like the Mino and Spearmen could fit into. 20 of these... Started putting together the dice tower. Few stones are leaving gaps, will rip those out and re-glue. Tower looks pretty neat, need to make the inside chutes next. When I double checked what I would need of each section, I used a few blocks as guides. Then I did a mock up of the last 4 maps to get an idea of what I would need. It seems 22 Corner sections, 4 double, 12 single, and 20 door ways would be enough to make all the maps in the core game. And to make sure they didn't over lap to badly, I measured out how long each section should be to fit with each other: Test fitting an unfinished door. To speed up setting up the board and to calculate what I would need with each, I did a cheat sheet for each map. Using the Pokorny paints I purchased to paint my dwarven forge. I did the first 3 colors on these walls as a test. I want these wall sections to match my dwarven forge pieces so it was only fitting to paint them the same. ( If not I would have done a light brown to look more like outside walls instead of underground dungeon walls) This only has the black primer, first wet brush of the base color, then a few stones painted differently. Missing 2 more dry brushes then a very strong sealing. Maybe a mix of Army painter dip ( or the home depo generic version) and then a testers dull coat spray. Took these over to visit my inlaws, I sat on their kitchen floor and painted these while we chatted away. That was before they sent me outside to cut the grass............. Wanted to break up a few walls with skulls. I glued this one on early to see what it would look like but will end up painting it a bright white to keep it cartoony and chibi looking. Washed my 20 treasure chest and will base coat them and paint them all to look the same. Still have a ton to go but trying to get all these ready before the next game day. I didn't want to make floor tiles as I want to lay these on top of the original board to help with the spacing and keep my group from getting confused if they cant see each square they are standing on. Still lots go and I have not even painted half the original minis yet although I have painted another 10 or so, will post pictures of these soon.
  2. I think its pretty cool, but I don't know why my unpainted Diva now has a pink (blush) on her nose and cheeks and it also showed up as highlights in her hair. I had read elsewhere that some figures got a pink also but don't remember why it was. My figures where primed first yet developed the pink hue after they where used for a game ( several hours and every one had pizza greasy hands). Looks kinda cute though.... This actually happened to several figures. No idea why. ( Maybe a pepperoni allergy? ) For the first quest, 2 hammers, I made 2 hammers with polymer clay to hide inside the chest. I only spent 5 minutes on it but when I baked it the handles got bent. I might try it again some time. These have the initials of all the players that where present for this game. Made one of the hammers look like an eagles head. Again made them from polymer clay, baked them, then did a really quick silver highlight. Spent about 5-10 minutes on them. These are the props I used to replace the tokens. I had enough treasure chest for all the potions, gold chest, traps and everything else. My friend would go to another table, close his eyes, and load up all the chest then mix them up and bring them to our table. This was the end effect. But my luck, this is what I kept finding. I must have gotten one trap each game... Need to paint some dried blood or cartoony looking bright red splatter on the "teeth". These are the treasure chest that go inside the larger chest to represent gold coins. I thought about painting them all the same, but so far our system of blind loading them has worked and people don't know whats inside what when they are placed in the table. I have a few doors to bring to the table, but for now these props where just to spruce up the visual rewards of the game a little bit. Might make some nobles, eagles, orc blood stones ect ect for the quest on each scenario with some goofy looking effect on the polymer clay. ( Goofy because I cant sculpt :P )
  3. Update # Something rather.... Not sure any more :D I had not noticed that the bodies and heads could be swapped around on some of the models. Here is my GreenDiva and Zazu Kardashian... The white primer that I used from masters paints ( brush on) does not really keep the paint on that well. Might be that its old or I did a crappy job cleaning and washing the minis first, but I can pretty much rub the paint off just by holding the minis. I do seal it several times when I'm done ( once with the Army Painter quickshade then 2 coats or so of Vallejo Matte brush on clear) Its been raining often and I have not dared to use the spray on primer. Close up pictures have a way to pointing out all of your flaws and mistakes..... I wanted to make some replacement magic potions to replace the exploration tokens in the game. Instead of flipped over exploration tokens I got 14 treasure chest from Pirates of the Caribbean Mega Bloks and placed the "upgraded " items inside. To make labels for these potions I made some "old" looking paper by first brushing on some coffee over a regular piece of printer paper, then 20 minutes at 200 degrees in the oven. I made too much coffee so decided to just drink it all, for the next 4 hours I felt my heart would explode as I bounced off the walls.. that was at least 6 cups of coffee and I normally drink coffee like once a week... I got the bottles, I think 1ML bottles off ebay for about $3 for 10 or so. Only need 6 for the game ( 2 healing, 2 extra turns, and 2 refresh) I used some of her polymer clay to fill them up then backed at 275 for 15-20 minutes ( like it said in the package) For the gold coins, I used these mini plastic treasure chest that fit inside the larger ones, I filled them up with black polymer clay and did little disk of gold inside to represent if they where 2 gold, 4 gold ect ect. They didn't fare too well in the baking oven and sort of warped but are still functional but Ill replace them later. I also made the 2 traps out of thin cardboard and painted them ( cereal box ) I sprinkled some instant coffee on the paper to see what would happen and it was a little messy, next time Ill make sure to brush it off first. Did get a lot of usable "old parchment" for my potion labels" And here are my unpainted traps. I'll take more pictures later tonight of the completed props. Let me know what you think or if you have any ideas what I can use to replace some of these :)
  4. I am a 100% sure this is not the best way to do this but I decided I wanted to give it a try. I was going to clean out the mold lines on my 13 heroes, but the brand new scalpel kit I purchased for $5 is just trash, feels like Im cleaning with a butter knife. I ordered 100 replacement blades on amazon for my xacto hobby knife and cant wait for them to arrive. I dipped the figures into very hot water initialy just to straiten out swords and a few spears but ended up tearing off their wigs ( hair) heads and other bits an bobs to speed up cleaning mold lines. Might as well leave them off to paint them faster for some parts too. Again, not a good idea but why not?... The carnage : This one looks creepy I was also washing them as I took them apart All these pictures are pretty much before I cleaned out the mold lines They where very easy to take apart, I also trimmed down the stumps to make sure they fit back together snuggly. I did not know Kim Kardashian was one of the heroes....
  5. Ub3r and XHerman, thank you both! Bowie Update #... I have no idea :) Any how, waited a full day for the greenstuff to dry up. I first used a new xacto blade to clean up a few bumps and lumps, then I hit it with some sandpaper from a kit I got in Hobby lobby for $4, it had 600 grit, 400, 300, 200 and 150. I am not sure those are the exact number of grit but they work really well and you end up with a nice clean smooth surface. I shaved off a little from the front of the hood and I removed the large lump behind the shoulders. Using the sand paper I tried to get that V shape behind the shoulder blades. Still have to smooth some more and will use some liquid green stuff to hide some of these sharp edges. Paint on white primer, then a heavy coat of black wash. This was my first try at a base coat, but I am unhappy with the colors. The purple just doesnt seem to match the brown leather armor. I know I can tone down the purple by a ton and lighten it up, not sure if this will work though. I want to do the eyes a bright neon color, to sort of get the Jawa eyes look. Storage!!! I have an old Games workshop plastic suitcase that was a gift from my Mom a while ago. It was an overpriced hobby set with files, brushes, tiny vice, saw ect... I tried using the foam inserts inside but there was a lot of dead space. I made my own inserts with high density foam from a cloth shop, I got the one used to fill out chairs and seats. I spent at least 2 hours cutting out the shapes but decided I didnt like how much space the foam used and I wanted to fit a lot more into a smaller space. I ended up making 2 trays and dividers using a combination of Corrugated plastic board ( its like plastic card board). 3mm foamboard, strips of highdensity foam and 1 yard of blue, black and purple felt. I did a sort of hack/slash job and just covered everything as I build it and re-enforced the parts together using cloth pins + glue. 90% of this was stuck together with a hot glue gun. I got lazy / tired at the end and this last tray just had strips of high density foam with out the felt cover and the 3 big mobs in the corner I still have to do dividers for, the troll, mino and Frank. That V shape is temporary only. First tray, the black one is removed to show a second layer under it, colored purple. Goblins up in the corner are elevated. The Big skeleton from Beyond the Grave was taller then the first and second tray so I made a additional space for him and placed the goblins on top of that. First layer, heroes only with the exeption of the big Skeleton. I see I missed one edge of Purple, Ill add some felt later. Since all the heroes are kind of short I added a tiny bit of foam in each slot to lift the heroes up a little, if they are larger then normal I can just remove that little square of foam. This is the first level, the blue level. In total there are 2 big trays and 1 smaller black tray. This set up first all the heroes and monsters from the base set, guildmaster pledge, nameless campaing, and beyond the grave. And this is what it looks like all closed up. Side ways nothing falls out and everything has padding on all 6 sides. Bowie! Ok now back to Bowie. First his armor got a hit of brown and black wash. Just wanted to see if the details I carved into his armor would show. Next I tried to give his warlock purple cape a purple wash. Not sure if this was the correct choice, but it did make sort of shadows plus a really glossy look I need to get rid off. I still need to hit his quiver with blue ( the one in his hip), and add a dagger maybe. I am open to any suggestions on how to fix this guys paint scheme as it doesnt seem to be working very well.
  6. Thank you Sir, I will be updating this thread soon, need to finish finding where I put all the parts for the ships !!
  7. I was looking for sort of a Assasins Creed look with a fully hidden face. I still have a lot to learn about Chibi/comic style of painting, I keep going back to Warhammer / gritty dirty look. I want to do the clean chirpy happy go lucky colors and schemes.. I think I can shave back a little of the hood with a clean xacto blade or files, but before that Ill try giving him some bright eyes, like a neon color or something, was hoping for a Jawa effect. Still stuck with his colors, cant really figure out how to make the purple cape work. Might change his mask to match. I took a few days to build my own inserts for all the minis into an old games workshop suitcase. Now back to finishing my Monsters.
  8. One of my things on my wishlist is I will be making a light box. It will be a simple one with just some white cloth around a cut up cardboard box with 2 lamps pointed inwards and a large piece of white paper or contact paper angled in the inside. Never made one before but I got google so I should know what I'm talking about...... or not. :) These are my two victims. And they are TINY. First thing I noticed is all my scalpels and xacto blades are really dull. I know I have at least 4-5 packs of replacement blades, each one should have like 12 in them all brand new. Un-used. Super sharp... just no idea where the hell they are so I keep using the same 4 dull blades... until I actually take time to find my blades or end up in the Emergency Room. I always use way to much greenstuff then leave a bunch to waste. This time Ill do a tiny bit at a time. It actually worked and I only had a pea sizes piece of wasted greenstuff. I was lucky and the head popped off when I dropped the mini in very hot water. I was hopping the reposition the arm but this plastic felt more rubbery and didn't bend or keep its shape like the other goblin models did. Not sure if this is a different casting as this was the goblin in the Guildmaster box and not the one inside the arcadia game. Might be the same but didn't feel like it. Ended up cutting off his arm with my butterknife xacto blade. I used a hand drill to pin a piece of paperclip into the arm and shoulder, then filled up the gap with greenstuff. I was messy because I figured the cloak and shoulder armor would cover it up. I did a nice job of making that leather sleeve. Then lost it under the cloak... Not really knowing what I'm doing I started from the legs up. I first made tiny wraps around the legs to show pants, then tiny strips for the leather straps for the feet, then a small triangle that wrapped around the waist as part of the tunic, I didn't mind cutting it as I would cover it in a belt. Then I did 2 shoulders / short sleeves. Took me a while to make them pretty ( Also I used this chance to fill out the huge gap made by cutting and moving Bowies arm. The sleeves came out pretty neat, later they got covered in the cloak and about 30 minutes of details got lost :) I made his chin and lower jaw more or less so that I could keep the shape when I made his bandit mask. I used that picture of the cartoony goblin to get an idea of the armor and how it would look. I made a new quiver and hanged it on his hit, its just under his hand and looks in the wrong spot but its the only place I could fit it. If he tries to draw a arrow from that side it would be uncomfortable but I'm hoping no one can tell. Also I didn't do the dagger, might do it or might not, not sure yet. Also I made his belt and might do a gold pouch for him later. My crazy glue BLEW UP when I tried to squeeze a very tiny drop into the waist where the belt would go. It got EVERY where. Took me a while to try and do damage control. Next time Ill do the squeezing far away from my mini. I wanted the Ninja / bandit mask, and I thought it wouldn be simple and it sort of was. Just flattened out some greenstuff on my glass desk ( used water because I didn't have any water based gel) trimmed it into a sort of really wide triangle, really wide, and then started from the nose down. Made several mistakes: First, when I pressed down I got an imprint of the mouth and teeth. No matter how soft I did it. So I ripped off the mask and did it a second time. Teeth and mouth imprinted. That's when I realized I should have greenstuffed the mouth first to give it a smooth shape for the VERY thin greenstuff mask to sit on. Third try. Came out a lot prettier then about 3 minutes later I touched it with my thumb and left fingerprints on it..... Still playing with the hood, going to smooth it out a little more and shorten the front just a tad bit. Also need to trim off a little lump on the middle top but cant touch it right now. Wonder if I can hit my greenstuff with a heat gun to speed it up? It came out no where near all those really pretty capes and hoods I saw on youtube either by hand or using some precut press on templates. All I know is I'm going to be doing some damage control to smooth it out with really thin liquid greenstuff, then hit it either with some of those hobby files I got last month in hobby lobby or with some different fine grit sand paper I got from Michaels. Im sure I can smooth it out and clean up those crevices. Oh and replace the bow string that I had to remove for some reason. Will use some black dental floss or maybe white floss dyed tan.
  9. I want to finish painting the monsters in my arcadia quest game before I start on the 12 heroes. The last 5 seem easy enough and I will just take the colors I plan on using and paint them at work this week after duty hours. But there are 2 figures that I know I want to try and change up. There are 2 Kickstarter reward "heroes" that are recycled Orc and Goblin figures turned into heroes with a new color scheme to distinguish them. The Goblin, called Bowie, has a sneaky ability where he can attack then he can move away before the victim can retaliate. This is the goblin model unpainted I would like to try my first cloak and hood with this guy. I saw a lot of really cool green stuff modifications on Space marines and decided why not. I am thinking of removing his lower jaw to make room for a bandit mask like this. Then removing most of his hair to make sure the hood has that neat assassin look. I would like to give his front side some leather armor, since the original is naked except a lion cloth. ( Only the front will show as I want to try a draping cloak that covers most of him) So for now these are the changes I will try to do on him
  10. I want to change the *Hero* Goblin for this game, hes supposed to be just a repaint of one of the many goblins in the game but for the kickstarter package you got a rebranded hero goblin that your supposed to paint a little different to make him stand out. I was hoping to do something else with him.
  11. Round 5 is it? I wanted bright colors so everything was primed white ( this is still from the batch of wrongly primed minis.) On this batch I screwed up and used Off -white colored SATIN primer. The semi gloss on it helps the paint just slide off, totally the opposite of what I wanted in a primer. First thing I will do on any future orcs will be to start them differently on how I did these. This batch I primed white, painted nose , mouth and eyes black, did eyes first then teeth then did skin colors and weapons and armor. Next time I will prime white, paint skin then do the dark areas like eyes and mouth. Less work to paint skin then do tiny eye sockets and nostrils then to paint tiny black areas then have to carefully paint skin around them, end up messing up a line and having to redo the black any way. These guys are 95% don't, need to give them another coat of matte varnish and finish their bases. Elysia I really would like to get my hands on a official Elysia but since I cant I ordered a Impact Miniatures Medusa. Looked pretty neat online and its only $5. I'll do side by side pictures later, the body is really tiny and very tiny brittle arms. I did notice that the casting has a lot of bubbles. I can fix this easy but wonder if I just got a bad cast or are they all like this? Again, a lot of details for just a $5 figure. I read a tip online about doing a black wash on a white primed mini. It not only makes the details stand out ( not really needed on this exaggerated features of a chibi) but the best part it gives shadows and depth to areas harder to paint like under cloaks or between the legs if there is a loincloth in the way. Also I don't have to bring the paint all the way to the edge of the armor or skin as the dark color works as a nice transition. It might seem silly but at least for me it felt like it helped speed things up a bit. Just like the orc captian, I wanted to give this guy a nice scar like his card has. I used a scalpel and carved a groove then messed it up a little so it didn't look like a clean cut. I used a darker red first inside the scar then a very thin line of bright red in the middle and then some darker skin tones around the wound to look like scar tissue. Here are the first few base coats I really wish, I had a working wet pallet. My paper hasn't arrived yet from my online order so for now I am just mixing drops of water into my paint and using a disposable dish. Here are the mixes of colors I have used on the Mino so far. I am using headset that has lenses on it to magnify the miniature. Each time I bring the brush up to focus on the miniature that is only about 3 inches from my nose I see the brush has too much paint on it. Instead of looking down and brushing the extra paint on a paper towel I brush it off on my hand. I know its lazy but it works fine and I can wash my hands afterwards. Also great way to check for drybrushing... I painted this guy slowly in about an hour and a half. I didn't worry about getting the paint perfect on the edges of the armor and skin as I figured the Army painter Strong quickshade would hide that. And after the dip ( brushed on) I could touch up anything I missed. It was hard to see so many white spots sticking out in the corners and ignored it but I really wanted to see if this would work. My OCD was killing me each time I ignored a slip of the paint that touched areas it shouldn't. I might have spent another hour trying to clean up all my errors. I just want table top pretty miniatures especially if there is going to be another hundred on the way in a few months. I need to learn how to do a happy medium. Plus each time I do a touch up I keep adding layers of paint that start to become noticeable. That's happened on my bases as I try to learn how to do cracks. I might in the future buy or make a ton of bases and just swap them out with textured bases. This mini is missing a few details but after the wash almost all of the tiny mistakes where hidden. Wood, bracers and inner ears can use a little more shading, might touch them up with some brown wash and a little highlight. Plus the Vallejo matte varnish to hide that gloss.
  12. Round 4 After I had done 1 Orc all the way to the quickshade I had an idea what to do with the other 7. First painted their nose, eyes, and mouth black. Although I kept playing around with the round chibi eyeball I ended up doing Red triangle's for the rest of the orcs It has to be because I was taking so long to do these but they felt like 20 orcs instead of 7. I kept staring at them in line wishing I was done and doing a hero character or anything else that's not in multiples.. On each orc I would do a single item like the nose ring, or the wrist band or belt then move to the next until I had done 7 nose rings or 7 arm bands. Felt like they kept multiplying!! This is what they looked like before the wash. The weapon isn't don't yet as its missing its highlights. I also used black ink to give my orcs dark rings under their eyes. The quickshade will smooth it out but it will give them deeper sunken eyes ( I hope). This Orc captian suffered a terrible papercut.. Also known as .. this is why I take so long ... And this is the squad just before their dip in a very diluted army quickshade strong dip And since tomorrow Ill be doing these guys I saw a tip for white primed models and it was to use black wash to give them shadows and when I paint them I wont have to take all my colors to the very edge as there will be shadows there to help speed up the process by not having to paint on all the edges ( or something like that. will see what happens)
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