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Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Starminer

  1. The cleaning method you use really depends on the paint that you were using. If it's acrylic paint, then a simple green soak will do a majority of the grunt work. It's much less harsh to elastomers, like the O-Rings, and so less likely to harm them. If you can disassemble it first, then soak for an hour at a time and just work off the crusties. If you can't disassemble it, you can try soaking it first and then disassemble after it's soaked and the paint has softened. Isopropyl Alcohol also works for this, but is harsher and will damage the O-Rings the longer it's soaked. If, however, you've used enamels, then you need something that will strip enamel, like acetone, as mentioned above. Unfortunately these are harsh by nature and soaking will definitely damage the O-Rings. Also, if you know the paint brand, even better. Use the same brand thinner/cleaner and it will generally work very well as it's formulated for that specific brand. Sometimes cross brand cleaners don't work as well due to different chemistries. I think your optimal solution is to invest in a new airbrush (mentioned on sale earlier) with the extra needles and hose, and two quick connectors. This will give you an immediate tool, and extra needles. Then work on cleaning the older brush and try it with one of the other needles. If it works, then you will have lots of flexibility with two airbrushes set up with different needle sizes for different tasks (large spray vs fine spray) and can go back and forth more easily as a result. If it doesn't work, then you are only out the cost of the extra quick connector, which is only a few dollars, and the time it took to try to save it. Good luck with this!
  2. Looks great, Rowan. And you did a great homage for Silver. She was an awesome cat. Nick
  3. I plan to use a low temp hot glue with a clear glue stick by drizzling the glue on and avoiding contact with the tip, it will be safe enough for the plastic, since the melt point of hot glue is much lower than that of the plastic. Plus while it's still hot, it can be spread around a bit with a tool to make it look oozy and blend the seam in better.
  4. Shipping Update: Got home today after helping my mom deal with insurance and police after she was involved in a collision, and wasn't even thinking about this until I got home and found a massive box sitting in front of my computer desk. Wifey was ready to rip a strip off me, but saw the original invoice date of December 2013, and realised this was something I told her about over a year ago and NO I did not spend all this money now that I'm unemployed...and she also remembered me telling her about this Kickstarter and that I was backing...as I always tell her when I'm backing a KS. So good communication with the Wife (And a secret present that should be inside the box for her which she doesn't know about yet) surely helped! As for the tracker, mine updated today with the following multiple lines: Canada 02/26/2015 7:29 A.M. Package arrived at international carrier Canada 02/24/2015 6:38 P.M. Package cleared by foreign customs office 02/24/2015 6:30 P.M. Package arrived at foreign customs office 02/24/2015 6:30 P.M. Package arrived at international carrier Canada 02/22/2015 8:06 A.M. Package departed international carrier facility But still doesn't show as delivered even though I've already got it. Based on the information lag (4 days, really? If they were actually updating those I wouldn't have had a concern in the world), it probably won't be updated for a couple more days. As for brokerage. It's true, there were no UPS associated customs brokerage fees. I think most people know this, but just a reminder, brokerage fees are not the same as taxes and duties. You may not have to pay brokerage fees, or this fee may vary by carrier, but you are always responsible for paying the taxes, and duties where applicable. In Canada, there are no duties applicable to toys, but you are responsible for paying the sales tax for your province. If you are not charged sales tax by the carrier who delivers it to you, you are still responsible to pay it by self filing the import paper with a copy of the invoice and the receipt (for foreign exchange vs declared cost).
  5. I got a security warning. Looks like a bad link... Yep. Should be https://ups-mi.net/packageid/ And incidentally, the tracking number does not work on that tracker, but works on UPS.com. No wonder they don't know what's going on...
  6. Update: I just got off the phone from UPS MI...after being transferred 8 times back and forth to different UPS divisions (not just departments but entire business subdivisions with different call centers), who all passed the buck back and forth to each other. Finally I was able to talk to somebody who told me that the package is in the USPS system now, and that is their tracking number, but when I use the tracking number on the USPS system, it's invalid. It's also invalid in the Canada Post tracking system. They suggested I then contact Reaper to have them call UPS to figure it out... to which I replied, "If you aren't able to figure it for me, what makes you think having the original shipper call will change the fact you can't figure it out?" I swear sometimes it feels like UPS customer service is designed to completely give you the run around all the time. This is the reason I dislike UPS.
  7. Calgary here. Ditto. My message is "Package received for Processing by UPS Mail Innovations" -- Bensenville, IL, Feb 19th It's been there for six days now with no status updates. I'm presuming that they're waiting for USPS to pick it up so that they can hand it off to Canada Post. My hope is that UPSMI only updates their status once per week, because the only prior update was on the 12th. That would mean they're due for a status update on the 26th. If I don't hear from UPS by tomorrow I'm going to call. Having said that, I ordered a package from Amazon on the 20th and it's scheduled to arrive tomorrow having been shipped from California - 5 days, UPS the whole way. Reaper ships by UPSMI and it's been 2 weeks, and it still hasn't even crossed the border. Yeah. Mine originally said that for a week, then on the 19th it changed to: Canada 02/19/2015 1:46 P.M. Shipment Acceptance at international carrier With the In Transit progress bar at the top. The tracking number doesn't work for Canada Post, so I've no real idea where it's hung up, probably in customs as was mentioned. But at least Canada Post details if it's waiting in Customs when you have a valid tracking number from them. I think the UPSMI will simply remain like this until they get a delivered confirmation. Frankly, this is pretty lowsy service from UPS not even providing a valid tracking number.
  8. If that was meant to be an interlocking tab/slot arrangement, it would require a more complicated mould with a sliding mechanism to allow the undercut of the slot in the wall of the lower section. This would increase the expense of the mould and was possibly dropped, but not corrected in the other mould. If it was retained, then the more likely and simple explanation is that the mechanism is either disabled on purpose because it wasn't working properly, or was never set up properly, or failed during the manufacturing process due to accumulated material inside the slide causing it to jam. Reaper should be aware of this so they can feed back to the factory and get it corrected if it's a manufacturing issue.
  9. Still waiting for my Wave 2 shipment to arrive to Toronto. Getting frustrated that the UPS update has shown received at Canada Post since Feb 19th, with no movement since, or valid tracking number that can be used with Canada Post.
  10. Ditto, but for wave 2 to Canada. And I read through the last few days to see if there's something there about UPS vs USPS/Canada Post but am only confused. Is it being transferred from UPS to USPS for Canada, or not? If not, I will want to self declare this so I don't pay the UPS extortion fee... which requires a complete packing slip and declared value, so I need that email even more.
  11. Ding. Just got my shipping notification. Tracking is now live.
  12. Yeah, about contaminating the pot. Anyone else notice white spots that wont scrub off easily on their pot after boiling bones? This is why I just boil water in a kettle and then pour it into a container dedicated only for bending plastic or resin models.
  13. That's an inspiring amount of dungeon tiles. Wish I could have gotten in on that one, but I was in the middle of a trip, followed by a layoff... so had to miss out on it.
  14. You are welcome. It just occurred to me the other day when I was actively searching for types of miniatures and kept getting bogged down with bones miniatures. I figured the standard internet search protocols probably apply, and it worked.
  15. You can add this to your search tag -bones and it removes all bones miniatures. I do it all the time.
  16. This is basically what allowed me to pledge without guilt. Smart thinking Reaper!
  17. I have the great fortune of knowing Heather, and have enjoyed her music for many years. Ironically, we live only minutes apart, yet I have never seen her play in our home town - though I have seen her half way across the country on numerous occasions.
  18. Generally when machining moulds for small detail parts, the scanning/rotoscoping is done with a much larger master, which then scales the size down either through mechanical means, as with rotoscope, or digital means via scanning. These masters are often 3x larger than final size. It's much easier to make very highly detailed moulds when scaling down like this because you are not losing the detail that exists on the master model. Since no such upsized masters exist for these miniatures, and they are probably being scanned, there is a lot of detail that is already very small, that it can get lost in the scanning, especially if using mechanical means. I suspect these were all digitally scanned, and for some of the one piece models were actually slightly reposed to reduce under cuts. Similarly, detail would be softened to reduce undercuts. There is actually another factor at work with plastics, that being shrinkage. All plastics exhibit a % of shrinkage when they freeze. If the mould is not full enough, this can lead to problems with the final finish as the miniature shrinks away and you get odd deformities, and detail loss. In the plastic injection industry, that is known as a "short shot". Usually they are obvious because an extremity is completely missing. But sometimes less obvious, and only noticeable in the final solid volume of the part. I'm actually surprised with how well some of the super fine detail actually translated, and that there were as few "Uglies" as there were. So now the question is, will Reaper start commissioning masters that are larger, for scanning purposes? Will they start introducing virtual sculpting to their toolbox? Now that they have taken this step towards a huge range of plastic, they should be able to begin taking those next steps to creating even better masters, and as a result finish moulds that provide the best possible detail for the chosen material. I look forward to seeing more excellent stuff.
  19. So yeah.... I guess I better actually go through my order to make sure it's complete. Too busy dealing with real life...
  20. Yep. You are experiencing a classic case of unprimed miniature. I highly recommend, if you can afford it, getting an airbrush and using some of the primers available from Vallejo, or HK Interactive. I prefer the Vallejo, but everybody's taste will vary. Do a light coat that fully covers the model. These primers shrink as they cure, so you won't lose detail, so long as you don't glob it on. You shouldn't need to thin the primer, but may need a higher pressure on your compressor. Alternately, if you aren't in a situation to get an airbrush, you can brush these primers on. Use a larger brush. Don't coat the miniature too thickly. It may take a couple of coats, but it will work out better in the long run. Also, always wash your miniatures (plastic or metal) with warm soapy water. This will remove any mould release agent that might be sticking to the surface of the model. It will also remove any oils from your hands that get deposited on the mini with prep and general handling. Then mount the model to some sort of handle so you can hold it without touching the surface, or the freshly laid paint. I know that we're told Reaper paint will bond to this plastic well, and that was part of the selection criteria, but even if you switch to reaper paints, I still recommend a good primer coat to start.
  21. This! I think you've hit the nail on the head. Distributors, instead of trying to sabotage companies who do well with kickstarters, might want to use some of the synergy of what they offer (a wide and capable inventory and distribution system) to help successful kickstarter projects get distributed instead of those small companies getting overwhelmed with inventory, and management of distribution. I believe some of the bigger companies out there who have had successful kickstarter results and on time shipments have done just that, using distributor networks to get products into the hands of the customers, and giving the distributors a cut, and keeping a solid relationship for future distribution. I think it takes a savvy marketting team and a savvy distributor to recognise that synergy and utilize it to the max, but first they need to broach the subject with each other.
  22. Be careful of fumes. Baking the plastic will set off fumes. Accumulation of which can be toxic. Since we don't know the chemical composition of the plastic made for bones, we can't know for sure what will come out of them. So, be careful.
  23. Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate) Gel works really well for these as it fills gaps and cures better as a result. But Super Glue tends to be brittle, especially if accelerated, and for this bendy plastic, might crack and break over time. As a result, I tend to pin my models, with about 4-10mm long pins on each side. Longer if possible is better. If the model is mishandled, or impacted, the pin will absorb more of the load, so the glue does not have to. It will reduce the likelihood of the glue cracking over time, and ruining a paint job. Alternately, you can use 2 part epoxy. This works very well as it will fill gaps. You need a little more patience as it takes about 5 to 10 minutes to set depending on the brand, and you might have to hold it. Again, pinning is helpful here for the same reason, though epoxy is far tougher than CA, and requires less of the stress relief. The other benefit of pinning models is that if you do it well enough, you don't have to sit there and hold the model together while it cures. You spend a little time up front doing the pinning, but you claim some of it back while the glues cure.
  24. Kneadatite A/B is also known as "Greystuff". This can be used for more structural work, but not as nice to work with. It does cure faster though, so if speed is your thing, then this is worth considering. Indeed. "Greenstuff" is made by Kneadatite, and branded Kneadatite Blue/Yellow, and sold as a plumbing epoxy for sealing leaks, and fitting non-standard fittings. It is available in tape form, where one half of the strip is blue, the other half is yellow. This is sold for the immediate use application in most home DIY stores or plumbing stores. The problem is when it goes off and you get a solidified strip in the middle, leaving hard chunks that make sculpting problematic. As such, it has a limited shelf life, and it is why it's sold in very small packets...though I have seen it available in meter long and longer strips. It is also available in tube form, one tube in blue, the other in yellow, and they are phsycially separated. This eliminates the issue with the center of the strip curing before use, and thus has a longer shelf life. It's also a bit of a bulk package, so your getting more bang for your buck. Perfect for sculptors and people who don't like wasting material because it goes bad/cures in the package. This stuff does have a shelf life, but it's much longer, and can be extended by refrigeration.
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