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Everything posted by scorpio616

  1. What glue? Epoxy should not have any issue with water
  2. I like the DC Behemoth a bit more than Khanjira, but sadly I already bought the Reaper fig so that slot in my collection is filled.
  3. Well, the experiment was mostly successful, the minwax worked as expected and did not trigger a chemical reaction as I feared it might. Look good, but I think I'll base colour the other 4 sprues, then minwax them.
  4. Bah. You say mistake, I say hookup! Hookup? It made the figure FAR less useful as a titanic dragon skeleton will far less often be a viable foe over a merely huge one in an RPG. And the inflation made the details FAR less crisp as they bloated up like those cheap "grow in water" figurines. And then Reaper decided to SHRINK Nethyrmaul to compensate for Kaladrax's size increase! I can only guess Reaper were afraid to lay the blame with the Chinese manufacturer for that mistake along with the noseless masses.
  5. Yes, the material composition of the figures is definity of concern to the buyer. I've had enough of there companies acting like it's a trade secret. The material is something the buyer needs and deserves to know as it changes what paints will react with the plastic and what paint stripping agents won't melt the miniature.
  6. 5 headed dragon. Froghemoth Most of the other dragons Shub Dagon
  7. Just got a pack of The Red Box 1/72 Dark Alliance Orcs:set 2 that I plan to use for goblins. The plastic is kind of rubbery, maybe a PVC material, unlike the styrene like plastic I was expecting. It is for the best to be honest, main sprue can be bent in half and returns to original shape with nearly no trouble and only a tiny bit of discoloration. That will at least keep the tiny weapons from breaking easily. The plastic seems a bit like Bones, so filing does not seem too effective. Plan is to clean and wash them on the sprues then pin the sprue itself to some sort of anchor for painting. Probably give them each a paperclip shortbow or a couple javelins from hammered paperclips.. Since I kinda like the base colour of the plastic, first thing is to start with a wash of Minwax polyshades Antique Walnut and see what happens.
  8. I've been happy with 4 parts water, 1 part future floor finish as a base 'magic wash'. I'll second this. One thing I'd recommend is take a few pre painted figures from wherever you can find them cheap, clearance bins, toys, whatever as long as the surface is paintable and has colours to work over. Clean and dry them. Then just practice with various washes and glazes to your hearts content to see the consistencies you like working with.
  9. Wayyyy better model than concept art. Nice painting. Great work on the skin and eyes.
  10. So anybody have a guess how many Ma'al Drakar will be in each cardboard factory box? I'm kinda curious. It was 4 DDSII per box, so maybe 2 or 3 per box for Ma'al Drakar. Harrek, on 24 Jul 2015 - 8:37 PM, said: 10k pieces? Is that of the same figure?!? I'd hope not! There were at minimum 8352 Dragons Don't Share II produced. 4 units per box, 2088 boxes.
  11. Has any consideration been given to producing pill shaped bases? A 2" x 4" pill base would fit many of the larger dragon minis out there.
  12. If you are particular about anatomy, I'm not sure what to recommend... Mage knight 2.0 had a cool Skull Golem back in the day, might be worth tracking down. Hot glue carefully squirted into cold water might be able to make ill defined spirits. Mcfarlane toys had a really cool bone titan named Scourge. Wargames Factory has skeletons box.
  13. They eyes look like they are clear, how did you do that?
  14. Well, making one's own cloth backdrop isn't very hard, cloth, paint and a chunk of rough sponge ( cheap kitchen sponge works just fine ). Hobby is expensive enough as it is.
  15. Wouldn't a dusting of dullcoat help with that?
  16. What brands of the cheap paint did/do you use? Apple barrel is really random and usually crappy, like terrain only crappy. But Folk Art I've been very happy with.
  17. Anything that fights scale creep is great in my book. Since 5E goblins look all roided up, I'm going to see how some of the Alliance Orcs (set 2) work for goblins. Also grabbing some Alliance wargs to see if they work well with the scrunched up Moria orcs from the old LOTR intro box.
  18. Pretty good. I find using multiple contrasting colours of metallics helps enhance the level of iridescent chitin look
  19. Uhg, that they are still negotiating the contracts puts my vote at "No Confidence".
  20. Oh hell no, they are using Norse Foundry dice. My buddy got 3 sets of those dice and they are not up to anyone's standards at the table. My group is only using the dice so the person who bought them doesn't feel bad about being out the money the dice cost..
  21. And I betcha with the way minimum orders work, if they don't hit a certain amount of unpainted pledges, they'll just "upgrade" the backer to the painted at no charge.
  22. Too long of a drive for me to wait in line for a badge that's twice what it should cost.
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