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willmontgomery

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Everything posted by willmontgomery

  1. It seems that the orcs of this setting are rather primitive, in that evidently they have not yet developed shirt technology. However, the female is wearing a bandeau, so she must be the innovator / engineer of the bunch.
  2. Even the individual unit of troops clocks in at $40/10. Add in exchange and shipping, and it gets pricy again (though still less than resin). Exchange is already built into that $40 amount (except that it is a little low). Shipping would increase it further, though. I'm figuring 6 USD per human-sized figure (pro-rated for a unit of troops, including shipping). That seems like a perfectly good deal to me. And I should have mentioned that shipping does not scale up with the size of the order. So unless you want each thing shipped as it becomes available -- in which case you'll have to pay for multiple shipments -- that same shipping charge covers everything from one unit of 10 human-sized figures (the basis for estimating ~6 USD per figure) to entire armies of metal and/or resin. And as Cash has mentioned, KS backers can expect to get access (discounted) to nearly all of Mierce's line, specifically including models from previous KS projects. The only exceptions are items that are being produced _right now_ for backers of previous projects, but have not yet been added to the store for general sale. So anything available for general sale, as well as anything that is still open (i.e., not yet locked) for backers of previous KS projects, is fair game to select as pledge rewards (or at least this is the way it has worked for their previous KS projects, and there's no reason to expect anything different this time around). And since they do this, they will also be happy to accept more of your money at fulfillment (the equivalent of adding more funds to a pledge manager, although there is no actual pledge manager per se). Oh, and items do not lock until after the models are sculpted, because the only reason for locking is that they are about to go into production. Since the models can be costly, being able to see the actual sculpts is an important consideration. Their resin is expensive, boutique-y stuff, but Mierce also delivers boutique-y service.
  3. That is also my understanding. Nothing above 60mm (base diameter) will be in metal, but I don't expect anything above 60mm to appear in this KS project. Of course, you can select all kinds of things during pledge management...
  4. Even the individual unit of troops clocks in at $40/10. Add in exchange and shipping, and it gets pricy again (though still less than resin). Exchange is already built into that $40 amount (except that it is a little low). Shipping would increase it further, though. I'm figuring 6 USD per human-sized figure (pro-rated for a unit of troops, including shipping). That seems like a perfectly good deal to me.
  5. If you are also new to Kickstarter, be advised that some projects are popular enough at certain times -- notably the very beginning or the very end -- that the flood of people overwhelms the Kickstarter system. If that happens this time, don't worry -- it's not you, it's Kickstarter. And it doesn't happen all the time on any project, and it doesn't happen ever on most projects, and even when it does happen, it does eventually clear up. With that said, there will be a small benefit to pledging early, because that means that your pledge -- when it is finally ready after months and months of waiting -- would be shipped earlier (by a few days or a week).
  6. That would be fitting, but for some reason logic tells me that is too early in the Kickstarter. I hate logic. I was thinking along the line of $555,555. Could be 5x $555,555 = $2,777,775.
  7. I've seen the sig banners. Did any Bones III Kickstarter Avatars appear yet? Bryan posted a set of three of them a few pages back in this thread. I'm assuming Scorpio made his own. Maybe I misunderstand, but I think "sig banners" are not the same as "Kickstarter Avatars".
  8. I've seen the sig banners. Did any Bones III Kickstarter Avatars appear yet?
  9. I guess these sinkers are what they call "split shot"? What size do you use? Here I am not asking about diameter, but rather the shot size (since trying to find a standard equivalence between shot size and diameter -- which can then be applied to the products from a particular vendor -- has been surprisingly problematic). Yes, Wikipedia has a chart (of course), but everyone's actual products seem to conflict with that chart in some way or another. Since I'm neither an angler nor a shooter, I find myself out of my depth. I use Water Gremlin round split shot 3/0 (tin). Thanks.
  10. I guess these sinkers are what they call "split shot"? What size do you use? Here I am not asking about diameter, but rather the shot size (since trying to find a standard equivalence between shot size and diameter -- which can then be applied to the products from a particular vendor -- has been surprisingly problematic). Yes, Wikipedia has a chart (of course), but everyone's actual products seem to conflict with that chart in some way or another. Since I'm neither an angler nor a shooter, I find myself out of my depth.
  11. All my device does is "vortex". So when you turn it on, that's just what it does. You can then turn up the speed at which it vortexes. ... So if you have a vortex shaker, I don't think you can do it wrong. It just vortexes. Mine has no other settings other than to turn it on / off and to crank the speed up and down. Excellent. Thanks again. On my speed dial (Vortex Genie 2), the low speeds are labeled "Shake", while the higher speeds are labeled "Vortex". But I guess none of the speeds are wrong.
  12. Thanks for your reply. Is "vortexing the paints" different / more specific than "the device is turned on and operating"? I hope I am not being too obtuse here, but: 1) I have one of these things. 2) I have the attachment/insert that can accept 8 bottles. 3) When I tested it out, I could not tell what was happening inside the bottles. I have no lab experience, but it did occur to me that simply spinning ("centrifuging", I guess) and actually mixing would be two different things. Then someone else mentioned that here. Maybe what I'm really asking is: "Is there any way that I could actually do it wrong?" Or is it newbie-proof (even though I got my device used -- like everyone else -- and therefore have no manual, to go along with my complete lack of lab experience)?
  13. I always leave mine plugged in and ready to go. But I've got the attachment on mine that let's you put up to 8 bottles in it at once and then I just flip the toggle switch. When I pull some new paint out, I just put them in there first and they are shaken, not stirred. Is there a recommended setting? Or does it just work whatever you do?
  14. Besides Egyptian gods, I'm amiss at figuring out which other mythological gods I can recognize and identify on sight. Hmmm... Very big viking with an even bigger hammer = Thor. Older viking dude with one eye and two ravens = Odin. Big bruiser wearing a lion pelt = Hercules. Sprinter with winged helm and ankles = Mercury I'm probably missing some easy ones. Scantily clad human female = Aphrodite. There seem to be a lot of Aphrodite minis.
  15. Thanks, everyone, for answering my questions.
  16. Please forgive my ignorance, but this seems like an oxymoron. Depends on what style you are talking about.. Cabaret style tends to be smaller outfits, as does American Tribal like these: There are also more traditional styles like Egyptian which have dresses more inline with this (The dress in question): My only experiences with belly dance -- strictly as a member of an audience -- were in Turkey. The first time was a single dancer, costumed more-or-less like the left-hand photo under your spoiler. The second time -- although more recent -- I do not remember the costumes as well, presumably because the performers were a troupe of girls -- maybe middle-school age -- and I didn't know how to process that. I think I lacked the cultural context. I had presumed that the first performance was more-or-less "traditional", but even in that case there were some hints that it might not be entirely traditional (since the performer seemd to be soliciting -- and was certainly accepting -- tips, which seemed like a modern twist).
  17. As someone who has never attended ReaperCon, I wonder how one obtains the limited paints? I know that some come in the ordinary swag bag (or three did this year, anyway). What about the other paints? Are they for sale at the con? Or do they accrue as possible bonuses, like door prizes at the banquets, perhaps prizes for competitions, etc? This thread led me to believe that there were different "levels" of swag bag. How that works may be perfectly clear to attendees, but what qualifies one for different levels? What does a "secret shopper" do? Would that be circumventing the letter of any rules -- even if tacitly tolerated by Reaper -- or is it not really a secret?
  18. Please forgive my ignorance, but this seems like an oxymoron.
  19. Well, my package won't be delivered until Monday -- meaning actually Tuesday -- but at this point I find myself hoping that.. just maybe... I might get... two?
  20. Is there any valid way to score ReaperCon swag that does not necessitate attending in person? I think I read that at one point buying a ticket entitled the purchaser to a certain level of swag, regardless of actual attendance. But I think I also read that approach ended up being a problem for Reaper. So what is the current state of play in this regard? Or where can I read about this?
  21. And thanks to everyone for the kind words. I confess that I had lurked around the boards enough -- before I posted the photos -- to know that I probably wouldn't get roasted, which certainly made it easier to forge ahead with something as presumptuous (for a first-timer) as "Show Off".
  22. Actually, this is part of the reason that I skipped some of the dry-brushing discussed in the LTPK instructions. 1) All of my attempts to dry-brush with the Round #0 brush from the LTPK were abject failures, and that's what I would have needed for smaller spaces, and 2) Using only the Flat #2 for dry-brushing -- which I found to be way easier anyway, due to stiffer bristles, all of roughly equal length -- allowed me to specialize my brush use. This shortened the whole basecoat-wash-drybrush-repeat cycle mentioned above, because I could switch brushes when it came time to re-do stuff -- as was often required -- and I found that my go-to brush for my next dry-brush attempt was more likely to be ready for me when I was ready for it. It didn't make me a better dry-brusher, but it made it much more efficient to re-do everything when I messed up. So there's that.
  23. Wow, now that I look at the photo of my own work, I realize that apparently I didn't wash around the front of the right shoulder -- where that second skull is located, and the right arm is bent at the "elbone" -- at all. Funny how one can simply miss spots...
  24. But Wren didn't cover that. Maybe we can prevail on Reaper for a LTPK 2?
  25. As anyone who has the new Bones LTPK will know, this is the first figure covered there. In my case, it's my first mini ever. 1) Everything I've learned so far, I've learned from Wren. I'm also trying to learn from Laszlo ("Hot Lead"), but Wren was my first instructor ("LTPK"). 2) It feels like the main thing that I've learned is that I'm not exactly a natural at dry-brushing. I cannot seem to find the middle ground between too wet -- sometimes too much paint, but at times (as I realized later) I also didn't dry off the brush well enough before "loading" it in the first place -- and too dry (sometimes meaning too little paint, but at times the paint seemed to dry while on the brush). Where there's visible texture on the surface, then generally I can "dust" just the high points. But where there is no visible texture... suffice it to say that certain areas of this project had multiple cycles of base-wash-drybrush (too heavily)-repeat. After a while I became gun-shy about dry-brushing and -- with all due respect to Wren's instructions -- I just skipped that step in some areas (confined spaces, or where there was no visible texture to work with).
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