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revloc02

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Posts posted by revloc02

  1. I have a dedicated area that is already set up, so I paint almost every day. But I've got a lot going on right now and so that means I am only painting for about 20-30 min a day.

     

    Although, even under ideal circumstances where I had less on my plate I'd probably paint about 30-60 min a day--not that much more. When it is like that it's more satisfying, 20-30 min a day doesn't quite feel like enough.

    • Like 7
  2. And the pose is quite different - in the concept art, his weight is settled back on the rear leg quite a bit, and he's crouched slightly. His shoulders also seem to be rotated slightly from the hips - it's a very realistic fighting pose. The actual sculpted mini has a very boring straight-upright stance that makes the arm positions look less like someone in the middle of a fight and more like... someone randomly flexing, maybe? Hard to tell what he's doing. Even aside from whether it matches the concept art, the stiff-legged, straight up and down body posture just doesn't work with the arm pose. It's dull and lifeless, and unnatural in the wrong ways. Combined with all the other subtle changes, it went from really fantastic concept art to a very "meh" figure. ::(:  Overall I'm still happy with Stoneskull, but this particular model just doesn't achieve what it should.

    Well said.

     

    The concept art only had me mildly interested. The sculpt leaves me completely uninterested.

    • Like 1
  3. I would be more likely to get them if they were substantially different from the ones already in production (aka the ones I have). Because I have gaints of all sizes, but I don't necessarily want two sets of giants that look pretty much the same in two different sizes.

     

    But hey, I'm probably a minority. 

    I agree with you.

    • Like 2
  4. Great suggestions, that really helps. Thanks. I'm going to give it a good try, most of my painting is all pretty much experimental anyway.

     

    I need to go look up some goblin pictures where the goblins are not green. For some reason I'm having a hard time picturing it.

  5. This is actually two questions, but they are related. Feel free to answer either one or both:

    1. If you were going to paint a goblin mini like a small orc, how would you do it to make the goblin look orcish?
    2. If you were going to paint a orc mini like a big goblin, how would you do it to make the orc look goblin-y?

     

    Are they not both green? Is there a difference between what kind of green they are? If you painted a goblin orc-green, wouldn't he just look like a goblin--the difference in skin color being...either negligible or essentially indistinguishable?

     

    What other things could you do with paint to identify one as the other?

     

    (I've got duplicates of both orcs and goblins. And I was thinking if I just painted some like the other that would give me a greater variety of models for each. But then I got stumped on how to do that exactly. A goblin-green orc is just going to look like an orc. Maybe this idea is not as good as I originally thought.)

  6. Bahanot--or colossal, venerable dragon king

    cyclops

    gargantuan roc

    demogorgon

    a really big mammoth with huge tusks

    displacer beast

    axebeak

    a paladin riding a pegasus

    translucent gem dragons

    troglodytes

    a dragon in flight

    pack horse

    pegasus

     

    dire tiger--saber tooth tiger

    any dire animals would be awesome, especially a really big dire alligator

     

    brigands/bandits/soldiers/henchmen/low-level-guys with some real character. There are plenty of heroic models with epic equipment, but it would be nice to have a few more plain or mundanely equipped characters with some personality and/or in dynamic poses. Examples: bowmen, torch-bearer, slingers, axemen, shortswordsmen, heavy crossbowmen, dagger-men, mace-men, pole-arm-men, and the like. Example models: 02010, 02021, 02022, 02024, 02025, 02026, 02027, 02031, 02032, 02033, 02034, 02035, 02036, 02037, 02045, 02046, 02047, 02048, 02051, 02052, 02053, 02057, 02058, 02059, 02060, 02062, 02063, 02072, 02073, 02084, 02086, 02091
    • Like 8
  7. pegataurs

     

    I don't think I can post the pics I found on Google because of copyrights, but if you search for it there's some good ones. Wikipedia has a good picture of them for the D&D M2 module. The way the pegatuar's hair goes down his back into...like a mane is cool. And the azure one is cool too--in fact, we could use a couple different models of these.

  8.  

    I'm not trying to be dismissive, by the way. I just wanted people to see that there's a lot of things to think about when we create something new.

     

    But I'd like to point out one other difficult thing with the clears. Detail. Man it can be hard to see the detail on the translucent models, people have a hard time with the rotting corpses in the base of the Gelatinous Cube, for example. They'll be hard to shoot, and hard at the table to see the detail.

     

    They'll look hella cool when you're sneaking into the keep though...

     

    There are ways around that ReaperBryan - the Tamiya range of translucent paints can be used to both preserve the transparency, and to define the details.  Specifically, if you did some character models in a clear plastic, I'd thin down Tamiya Clear Blue so that it barely tinted the clear plastic and use that to create a stealthed / invisible character, probably picking out the deep detail with sparing use of blue ink.

     

    As for the issue of transparent characters in general - maybe consider doing a somewhat generic 'sneaking' pose with no weapons, maybe in both sexes and 3 different sizes (human / elf, dwarf, gnome / snack halfling)?  That way with 6 figures you provide a stealth 'proxy' for those who want that sort of thing.  Make the figures hooded & cloaked maybe.

     

    I'm not that interested in translucent figures, but I agree with everything Laoke said here. A very reasonable, and logical case.

    • Like 5
  9. I am amused by the dozens of various lamentations about piles of unpainted minis--or having so many unpainted minis that "Alas, I'm not sure I want to get another pile of bones in Bone III." Isn't that what we are all really after is unpainted minis so that we can paint them! ::D: Very amusing indeed.

     





    I am really looking forward to this, but I have some questions? How does the addon system work and can you have multiple of the same addons, because I really want to get a couple of the pretty 5 headed dragons which might make it into the bones 3 kickstarter.

    For any addon, simply increase your pledge amount to cover the quantity of that addon. We have a pledge manager that allows you to specify which rewards you are requesting for the amount paid.

    As an example, if that dragon is $25, and you want 3 of it, simply increase your pledge by $75. In our pledge manager tool, you will give us your address and specify that you want 3 dragons.

    There are parts of Bryan's statement that tickle me pink!
    • Like 6
  10. Brush on Sealer is also another magic-in-a-bottle that Reaper makes. I mix 2:1 or 1:1 Liner with Sealer to wash my Bones for the first coat. For me it works better because it outlines the detail, and provides a sufficient coverage that I can thin the rest of my paints as much or little as I want then. It does tend to make the model look a bit "dirty" but for what I'm doing I'm really ok with that.

    Could you please elaborate on the Brush-on Sealer. I understand what you are saying about mixing it with Brown Liner (or whatever color liner). But in and of itself what it is used for? And why?

    • Like 2
  11. I'd like to just chime in again and thank everyone for their input, it has all been immensely helpful. And thanks Genghis_Sean for asking key questions, there wouldn't have been nearly as much helpful information with out them.

    • Like 3
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