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Everything posted by Heisler

  1. I’m with Doug on RPGs. I will add Tractics (WWII), Johnny Reb (ACW) and Empire (Napoleonics) for miniature games. Star Fleet Battles didn’t give me any problems but then I played it from 1st edition on and things were introduced relatively slowly, the same with Squad Leader and Advanced Squad Leader. Ridiculously complicated board games would be just about anything published by People’s Wargames.
  2. Heisler


    You need to add an oil slick to your Russian carrier and it could use some tugboats to actually move.
  3. Knuckleduster has some horses from their last Kickstarter that might fit the bill. I checked, in their Gunfighters’ Ball line; bareback, draft, and standing. None art twisted the way you want though. That would be a hard pose to cast.
  4. Anne has patreon page. She might be willing to do that there.
  5. I would like to see a straight on shot. The tree placement doesn’t seem quite right and I think a different angle would help. The trees also look more “unfinished” compared to the rest. The Ettin’s feet are clashing with the ground around them. Pretty minor items in the end.
  6. Glad to be of service. I would agree that the Gold Dragon set is likely to be the one he came from.
  7. I would skip the first one. There doesn’t appear to be anyway to adjust the air pressure and I seriously doubt that it will generate the PSI you will need to make it of any use. The second one is a better choice. Better compressor that monitors the PSI and it’s adjustable. A compressor with a tank would be better but that one isn’t bad. Master Airbrushes are basically Iwata knockoffs. At some point it will just stop working at that point throw it away. It could happen in three months or three years but the o-ring will fail and it can’t be replaced. It’s not a bad starter outfit to get your feet wet. I would take a look at Badger kits they make a better airbrush and compressor and they are often on sale. That being said I have three airbrushes an Iwata, a Harder Steinbeck and a Badger Renegade. I find myself using the Renegade more and more. Try Chicago Airbrush Supply for starter kits from all three of those companies. If you can find a shop that carries airbrushes go in and actually hold them in your hand. One of the reasons I like the Renegade is it is very comfortable in my hand. I don’t like Grex airbrushes is they are to small to hold comfortably in my big paws. Like any tool a good one will make life easier while a poor one will lead to frustration and giving up on a useful tool. Opinions will vary a lot, in the end only you can decide what will work best for you. The Booth is okay, but it’s a bit small which can be frustrating at times when you have something big to paint or you are doing a lot of priming. You might have problems with the overhang if you are doing zenithal
  8. It looks like a Max Carr sculpt. Which would make sense that he looks like a Heritage miniature. Max did most of the Dungeon Dweller line. If it is one of his then trying looking at Custom Cast, Realm Miniatures and Barony Miniatures and maybe go through Heritage again.
  9. I managed to get a substantial amount of time to paint and I feel like I made some pretty good progress. Of course every time I show pictures I see things that need to be fixed. Like the yellow in the neck feathers needs to come down farther on the romance side and not be so abrupt. Like wise I see some pretty hard lines on the money side that need to be much better blended. The paints for this round although I also ended up using Prussian Blue, Cobalt Blue, Pthalo Green and White The romance side, I thought I was finished but I think I'm going to pull the yellow further down now. Starting the body feathers, first row is green, then blue. The shoulder of the wing starts out reddish and goes to blue as well. That blue still needs some highlighting. Close up of the romance side feathers The chest, I brought the green a bit further down here in the front. And the same work repeated on the money side.
  10. A little more work on the head. Money side is basically finished except for some touch ups. The front is also pretty much done at this point and the romance side has been roughed in a bit more. Another hour or two and I can call the head finished and move on to the body. The Money side basically finished The front, also pretty much finished. This shot demonstrates some of the tough lighting conditions I'm working with. The romance side in a roughed in state. Hopefully can find time to finish it up over the weekend. Still shooting for this whole thing to be finished by Thanksgiving for my mom.
  11. I think Doug pretty much nailed everything that we encountered as a group. I started the CMPA after the first Reaper Con in 2004. That first year was really tough, by the next Reaper Con I think I was up to four regulars, including myself. You have to really be persistent and stick to it and have a set time and date and stick to it. I think the big breakthrough was when I took a big gamble and ran some painting classes at Genghis Con, probably in 2006. That’s when the club really took off. Personally I haven’t had the time to attend for a number of years now, which will hopefully change next year.
  12. You are kidding right? War game players are by far the most tight fisted group in the industry. They may be made of money but they don’t want to spend it.
  13. And now the hard part, I started trying to get the color changes and blending in the feathers. I started with the money side, all the important work starts on the money side so you practice before doing the romance side.
  14. Are we referring to the launch platform or the Ordnance itself? If it’s a big rock for a kinetic strike I don’t think it will due to well in the scoring but would technically qualify for the category. The launch platform would certainly qualify.
  15. And a little more work over the weekend. With the body colors blocked in I started blending and shading the red and yellows on the head and crest. In the beginning, just the blocked in color, magenta and raw sienna The reds with more shading and a lot more blending And the beak, a base of raw sienna followed with primary yellow in enamel and cad yellow (non toxic) tube oil The paints. I transferred some of the paint from the quart cans into smaller, easier to manage, 8oz Jam jars. And the brushes being used at this point. Moving away from the house brushes to something more like what we are used too. These techniques are hard on brushes so I went with large but cheap craft brushes and stencil brushes.
  16. And I have finally managed to finished getting the base coat on the entire body. The "horse" furniture won't be painted till I'm done with the body. Time to move on to phase 2 which will be highlighting and shading with a combination of straight oil paint and enamels. I'm about 10 hours into this one at this point. With all the feathers I'm not quite sure what to expect time wise. I'm thinking this one will be quite the time sink. A quick, badly lit, shot from the romance side after finally finishing with the Prussian Blue Another romance side shot, better lit this time, with the legs finished up in a base of Raw Sienna And a final shot from the money side.
  17. It’s pretty common to find a base that’s cool and we want to use it and allow the base to determine the scene. Instead we should be composing the scene and building the base to fit the scene.
  18. Military figure painters have been using oil paints on miniatures for years, however, I think you may begin to run into thick paint issues on our smaller miniatures. Time for a little more work on Chester. Unfortunately I took these photos after I had, essentially, packed the materials away for the day so these are not good pictures. At this point I'm applying Prussian Blue to all the body feathers. I'm very happy with the progress so far but this is still just the basic colors at this point. The saddle and other equipment will be done last so there won't be any paint on that till I'm finished with the rest.
  19. As long as the non-reaper figure is a supporting element rather than a primary it would qualify for the Sophie.
  20. I think it would have been much better on a smaller base with less elements and a bit of backdrop.
  21. I’m curious why you think his game mechanics have influenced any other company or quality for that matter. He is a pretty small player in the game and miniature market.
  22. Working on something the size of Chester requires some fairly serious time. I can't grab a spare 20 minutes and throw some paint on him, I need at least an hour. I took an extra long weekend and managed to block out time to get some of the base colors on Chester. Primary Magenta, note the highly visible brushstrokes, pretty much inevitable with enamel paint (the traditional paint for carousel animals, minus the lead base now). A stippling brush is used to help eliminate the brushstrokes, tedious but required if you are going to have something that looks good. Raw Sienna as the base for the beak. Note the edge between the primary magenta and the raw sienna After stippling the beak is pretty smooth at this point. You can also see some of the initial blending that the stippling provides between adjacent colors. Burnt sienna for the first of the feathers Raw Sienna for more of the feathers. The tail and the body feathers will be painted Prussian Blue for the base color. Paints and tools Oil paints, these will be used primarily for highlights and shadows. The advantage of oils going over the top of enamels is that the oils will dry much faster as they pull the drying chemicals out of the enamel base (at least that is how it was explained to me).
  23. In general MSPs are thinner and designed specifically for a layered painting style. Bones and Pathfinder paints are more highly pigmented and thicker more suitable to a one layer covers style. They can certainly be thinned to act more like MSPs either with water or a flow improver. As always different pigments behave differently so the paint out of a bottle of MSPs or Bones or Pathfinder will not always be the same viscosity as another. Reds and a yellow tend to always be thinner than blues, as an example.
  24. I would say 10 years is accurate based on the last time I got a WnN brush
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