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Heisler

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  1. Talon Games We will be sponsoring a: Best Single CAV Model (Armor/Ordnance) Best CAV Squad (Armor/Ordnance) Best CAV Diorama (Diorama) There will be a trophy for 1st place in each and a medallion for 2nd and 3rd in each with a $50, $25, and $10 gift certificate for all three slots as well.
  2. Graduating from High School, heading off to California for my first semester of college.
  3. There is always the possibility that what you have on the 1/56th kit is a new designer on one of their first projects and its possible that they just made some weird choices. We always think we can design something better than they guys that have designed it before. There are plenty of examples in larger and smaller scales with similar situations, really detailed and fiddly designs that are completely hidden when it comes together, unless your intent is to model the changing of a tire or a track or make something removable so you can see the inside. I love to push Rubicon kits for this reason. They are simple enough to be robust on the gaming table and still have enough detail to satisfy a someone modeling in that scale. I love the design of of Rubicon tracks and bogies because its so simple and leaves out all the suspension detail that we never see. That's not to say that they don't make some odd decisions, their PzKfw VIb King Tiger kit has a full interior. I'm going to build it anyway but what you are going to be able to see through the open hatches is miniscule. Anyway I didn't mean to derail Jasper's thread. Bring on some more armor models!
  4. I suspect that Italeri just took their drawings for their existing 1/35th scale Puma kit, reduced them down to the appropriate size and then simplified somethings because of the size. Just guesses, but basically they too the simplest approach possible which left some weird design choices when it was done.
  5. Because it’s a modeling company first and modelers like that kind of thing.
  6. A couple of things to think about. First I know next to nothing about 3D printing, does it have an option to print to scale? Your PzKfw IV is looking just a little small. The Warlord Games (BA) version is built to 1/56th scale, as are the Rubicon models. Otherwise, knowing the scale you should be able to work out the correct % to print it, it all depends on what "scale" the file was built for then you can calculate the necessary reduction. There is no real reason to use magnets on the upper hull unless you are going to do an interior, so just glue it together. The only place where you might want to use magnets would be between the upper hull and the turret, so I suppose you might want to figure out how you want to do that before you glue it on. I would very much recommend the Rubicon kits over the Warlord Games kits, they are a bit simpler in design and definitely more robust. While Rubicon still is still expanding their range there are a fair number of tanks that are not available through them yet (British armor in general is lacking except for Shermans).
  7. I'm always interested in more information on any of the bombers my great uncle flew in. He only flew in the Vulture once, he flew almost half his missions in Rovin Ramona II/Big Friend. Naming of the bombers is a bit of a mystery as well, I have read in more than one source that the ground crews named the planes as they were "permanently" assigned to each bomber where as crews could be assigned to any bomber for any mission. This makes sense when you look at bombers that had flown a lot of missions. I suppose the pilots may have been able to put "dibs" on a specific plane for a mission, I haven't read anything about it. What you are saying about your dad is interesting. There is usually not a lot of movement between crews. You pretty much stayed with the crew (my great uncle was in crew 08) you were assigned to with replacements coming in due to casualties or furloughs (as an interesting side note there were no casualties to crew 08 during the time my great uncle was part of it, till mission 30 when he was wounded along with the tail gunner, quite the lucky bunch). Cpt Sabel flew missions from 11/43 to 2/44 as a member of crew 4 (13 missions on the Vulture), Cpt Strawn flew missions from 9/43 to 5/44 (19 missions on the Vulture) as a member of crew 7. My g uncle flew from 12/43 - 4/44 (1 mission on the Vulture) as a member of crew 8. So all three of the officers flew during the same period with Strawn taking the longest time to get to mission 30. I'll send an email to you, I would love to have copies of the pictures.
  8. We do try and be available immediately after the awards ceremony on Saturday night. While it is always preferable to talk to one of your judges most of them would be happy to go over your entry with you. Just keep in mind that time is precious and there are a lot of people that are looking to get feedback as well. That being said I'm typically in the vendor hall, herding the cats, so you are welcome to hunt me down for feedback as well.
  9. Some Thoughts on Scores for the MSP Open Painting Competition What follows is a complete wall of text, you have been warned! Maybe it’s your first time entering the MSP Open, or you are veteran that is still a bit mystified by how your entries are scored. Let’s start at the beginning with some scoring basics. Once entry into the MSP Open competition is closed (Friday if you have a weekend pass, Saturday if you have a single day pass for Saturday) we unleash our judging teams. There are multiple teams at work but only one team in any given category will judge your work. Typically, there is one team each for Dioramas, Armor/Ordnance and Open. There are as many as 4 teams for Painter (that’s 21 judges if you are keeping count plus interns, it’s akin to herding cats). All of this depends on the number of entries we receive, so changes do get made. A 3-person team will review your entries, in each category, and then each member of the team will give your entry a score from 0-4. The judge assigns that score based on the criteria for the category the entry is in. If you have multiple entries in a single category only one will be judged and the judging team will make that decision. While there is discussion around which entry to score if you have multiple entries the score a judge assigns to an entry is private. In theory no member of the team knows what score the other members gave the entry. After the scores are turned in, they are added together to get a number from 0-12 which determines what you will be awarded: 0-1 No award 2-4 Honorable Mention (paper certificate) 5-7 Bronze Medal 8-10 Silver Medal 11-12 Gold Medal That’s the easy part! But now you are thinking, wait a minute, the criteria; Difficulty, Creativity, Workmanship, Painting Skill and Presentation all add up to 100% how does that work? Well, those percentages are the judges’ guide to what is important in each category. Since the Painter category is by far the most popular, let’s look at that and what those percentages represent: Difficulty 5%, Creativity 10%, Workmanship 10%, Painting Skill 70% and Presentation 5%. A quick glance at the numbers tells us that, obviously, the most important part of the category is painting, standing tall at 70%. Creativity and Workmanship are 10% each and Difficulty and Presentation are 5% each. How those percentages are used varies from judge to judge which is why a team is made up of three people and not one (in the Open System teams can have as many as five judges but the minimum is three. When there are 3 judges all the scores are used, with four judges the lowest score is tossed out and with five judges the highest and the lowest score are tossed out). Before we go further let’s define what those criteria mean: Difficulty (5%): This is definitely not an intuitive concept in the Painter Division. While the judge is looking at the techniques (including freehand) you used on the miniature. They are also looking at how difficult is the miniature itself to paint. How difficult a miniature is to paint is pretty subjective, subtle shading on flat or nearly flat surfaces is much more difficult to pull off than shading on a surface with more surface texture. Often difficulty is going to come into play when a judge is on the fence between two scores. Creativity (10%): This component looks at use of color, color schemes and freehand designs in other words things that aren’t part of the sculpt itself. This is also where painted effects also come into play, like OSL (Object Source Lighting) or NMM (Non-Metal Metal). This is the component that really addresses your freedom of expression on your entry and how well you bring that across to the audience. Workmanship: While I used to think this was a pretty straight forward component, it does seem to be an elusive concept for some painters. It reflects how well you prepared your model for painting. Any type of non-painting effort is represented here. In the Painter division this includes finding all the elusive mold line and eliminating them, but it also includes assembling a multi piece miniature or executing minor conversions. A well-done conversion or well assembled miniature means that the judge can’t tell that anything has been converted or that it had multiple pieces. A missed mold line, poor assembly or a poorly executed conversion could easily drop you a whole numeric value in the scoring. Painting Skill: This is the whole key to a Painter Division entry, how well you apply paint to the miniature. This is where you are evaluated on the techniques you used and how well you executed them. Tying everything together is another factor, did you create a coherent whole? Everything you do must come together as a whole composition. It is an area where judges need to be aware of everything that is going on and how it is fitting together. While this is the predominate component of the Painter Division it is also the most subjective. Judges must overcome their prejudices about which techniques they prefer. As an example, there is nothing wrong with drybrushing when executed properly regardless of how the judge feels about that technique. Here is a place where a judge needs to be aware of many different styles and techniques. Blending doesn’t always have to be a smooth transition from light to dark, there are multiple different types of blending, it is how well you executed the technique or style you opted for. Do you blend like Jen Haley or like Alfonso “Banshee” Giraldes? They both achieve marvelous blends, but their techniques are markedly different in achieving those blends. One point to make here, while speed painting techniques are perfectly acceptable, they are not likely to garner you a silver or gold medal no matter how well executed they are. These techniques are primarily designed to look good from a distance and in competition painting entries need to hold up to close scrutiny, within a foot or less. And no, we won’t be adding a category for pure gaming figures using fast or speed painting techniques. Presentation: While not the most important component in the Painter Division it is another example of getting the little things right. A nice, well executed base will set the “scene” for your miniature. It can be the simple base that the miniature came on or it can be more elaborate (although I would save the effort on a really elaborate base for a miniature going into the Open or Diorama divisions). This component is another one that a judge will often use when making that final decision between scores, a tie breaker as it were. A key point me is harmony, is your base in harmony with your paint work. If you have beautifully painted miniature and all you did was glue unpainted rock to the base you are likely to pull your score down the unpainted rock clashes with the painted miniature. While there is certainly a place for natural materials, those natural materials in their natural state will often clash with our paintwork. Natural materials really need at least a bit of paint to bring them into harmony with the miniature. Like anything there are exceptions to the rule but when in doubt paint it all! How in the world do the judges make any sense of this! All Michael and I can do is guide the judges but this is how I apply the criteria to an entry. I take the percentages and translate them into numbers based on the those percentages. So, for me the painter category translates into the following: Difficulty: ½ pt Creativity: 1 pt Workmanship: 1 pt Painting: 7 pts Presentation: ½ pt Now I have ten points to work with in my head. This is the order I tend to work through when judging a piece. Difficulty: what miniature did you choose to paint? How hard was it to work with? Does it have a flowing cape with lots of folds or is it a simple cape that is waving a little bit but almost flat. Did you pick a Bobby Jackson sculpt or Kevin White sculpt? The canvas the sculptor provides really determines how difficult (as a side note, I like both of these sculptors, but I would consider Kevin’s work to be more difficult to work with than Bobby’s. Kevin’s details tend to be a bit more subtle and Bobby’s a bit more exaggerated) it is to paint. In general, I’m not going to take anything away from you at this point, just going to put that ½ point in my back pocket for the moment. Workmanship: I come from a modeling background so this is a big deal for me. Get all the mold lines (and if you try and turn a mold line into a scar, you had better make sure it really looks like a scar, otherwise I will not award that point). Quite frankly, your workmanship should be nearly flawless. Did you catch all the mold lines, how well did you assemble a multi part mini, how well does the mini integrate with the base, that sort of thing? Depending on your workmanship I’m going to start you off with either a 1 (you got the point!), 0 you did a solid job or even a -1 (which has the potential to drop you a medal rank). At this point if you did well you have 1 point. Creativity: This is more complex that it first appears. It certainly includes special effects like OSL or NMM. But it also includes freehand and use of colors. I’m looking for wow factor here but I’m also looking for harmony and how the colors lead me through the miniature. Another aspect that I look for is use of materials. There are a plethora of different materials we can use on our minis which would include “weathering” like mud along the edge of a cape or on the boots (leads back to the harmony aspect, as you integrate the miniature into its environment). Much like Workmanship I’ll either start you off with a 1 (well done), 0 you did a solid job or a -1 if there is nothing of note. Potentially you now have 2 points. Presentation: Again, more complex than you would think at first glance. While I typically hold this ½ point in my pocket. This really is a bit about basing and how the miniature and the base go together. Do they compliment each other? Do they form an integrated whole? It doesn’t have to be complicated just a simple base that tells me a bit about where the miniature is at. Or it could be a miniature, well mounted, on a finished block of wood that is in harmony with the miniature. Just remember that if you use a wood block or something similar, judges tend to use these as handles so make sure your miniature is well fastened to it. Painting: I save the painting for last because this is the point where I’m not only looking at your ability to paint but how well you executed any special techniques; OSL, NMM, freehand and/or the application of other materials. This is the make or break point and its worth up to 7 points. If you are hoping for a gold medal, I would need to be able to award at least 6 points right here. First thing neatness counts! If your painting is clean (no paint where it doesn’t belong) and no stray brush marks, I’ll be starting you off with at least a silver so 5-6 points for paintwork. Then the hard part, the special techniques if any (and I don’t down grade you if you didn’t use any) and how well you pulled those off. While we like to see painters push themselves to try new things, sometimes a contest entry is not the right place to experiment with it. I might give you the 1 for creativity but I may well ding you a point on the painting. Things to keep in mind. Working out the numbers All right so here is the running total in my head right now: Workmanship 1 Creativity 1 Painting 6 That’s 8 points for the elements that make up the largest portion of the scoring which means you are sitting at a silver medal and I would give your entry a “3” on the score sheet. But I still have a full point to play with. That point comes from; difficulty and presentation, ½ a point each. If I award no more points you are at Silver, if I take away 1 point you are still at Silver. However, if I award a full point (and in this case only a full point would do it) that pushes your score up to a 9 which would just push the piece to gold and I would score a “4” on the score sheet. Now what’s the final score? Let’s look at some alternatives based on a final score of 8 (“3”) or a final score of 9 (“4”) from me. I would expect both the other judges to score within a point of my score. 1) Me: 3 Judge 2: 3 Judge 3: 3 Total Score 9 that’s a solid silver medal 2) Me: 3 Judge 2: 3 Judge 3: 4 Total Score 10 that’s a high silver medal pushing towards gold. 3) Me: 3 Judge 2: 4 Judge 3: 4 Total Score 11 that’s a low gold medal, congratulations! 4) Me: 3 Judge 2: 3 Judge 2: 2 Total Score 8 that’s a low silver medal with room for improvement 5) Me: 3 Judge 2: 2 Judge 3: 2 Total Score 7 that’s a high bronze medal pushing towards silver If I scored a 4 then cases 1-3 each go up a mark ranging from high silver to high gold. An entry could have a score ranging from 7-11 depending on the other two judges’ scores or high bronze to low gold. Those three scores are what’s really important to you and gives you an idea of where the judges feel that your work currently stands and shows if you are improving. While I realize that getting three straight bronze medals (been there, done that) can be discouraging, if your score is going up by a point each year (so 5, then 6, then 7) you are improving with every entry. Each team has one judge designated as the lead. Basically, the lead will guide the conversations around entry selection, when there are multiple entries in a category, and collect and review the score sheets when the team has finished their assigned section. That review is to make sure everything has three scores and to see if there are situations like 4 and 5 above using an alternative score of 4 from me. These are an issue since my score of 4 is 2 points different from either one (case 4) or both the other judges (case 5). At this point the lead would pull the team back and make sure everyone scored the same entry or at the very least reevaluate their scores. We are concerned anytime one judge is scoring a piece for a gold medal but one or both others are scoring it a bronze. If you made it through all of that, congratulations! If you have questions about it feel free to post them and I’ll do my best to answer them. As I stated in the beginning this is how I do it, I suspect a couple of the other judges do something similar but please don’t take this as the hard and fast way to do judging. It works well for me, but when there are 21 different judges things are going to vary from one person and even one team to another.
  10. Arrangements for manufacturer awards are made by me. I have a list of companies that have previously participated and I reach out to them through email. Awards are up to the manufacturer we have no requirements for what the manufacturer wants to provide. Judging is up to the manufacturer, they have the option to judge their entries themselves or they can have the MSP judges do it. If the MSP judges do it then we basically fall back on how we judge the MSP competition. I can be reached through the forum or give me the contact information and I will reach out.
  11. There are some really nice alternatives to Warlord metal sculpts if you end up looking for some variety; Artizan Designs, 1st Corps. Company B (primarily for vehicles), Rubicon Models (primarily vehicles but some infantry), Trenchworx (vehicles only), Perry Brothers and Brigade Games are a few that come to mind. Rubicon and Warlord vehicles are good match to each other as they actually use the same scale 1/56th. Perry Brothers are also 1/56th scale and have both metal and plastic miniatures. I like their plastics quite a bit.
  12. Somehow it seems that a grenade launcher on a starship is not a good combination.
  13. Greetings! ReaperCon is now only six months away so you better getting moving on those MSP Open Contest entries! In addition to the regular awards given by Reaper, there are also a few manufacturer awards as well. Here are the current manufacturers that will be offering awards for painted versions (yes painted is a requirement) for their miniatures: MidKnight Heroes - The Chibi competition - This sponsorship is open to all Chibi miniatures, regardless of manufacturer. * Adult: This is podium style; Gold for first, Silver for second and Bronze for third. The gold winner receives a $100 GC to Midknight Heroes * Youth: As for the adults but Gold receives a $30 GC, Silver receives a $20 GC and Bronze receives a $10 GC Bombshell Miniatures - 2022 Golden Maelee Award * All Bombshell Entries will be awarded a Gold, Silver or Bronze Dog Tag depending on the level of painting and presentation of each entry. A gold, silver and bronze Maelee trophy will be awarded to the top three paint jobs out of all the Bombshell entries. * Entries will need to feature at least one one or more Bombshell Miniatures as the prominent subject. This can be anything from Babes, Sidekicks, Kritterkins to Robots or busts. Each entry will be judged on its own merit of painting execution, presentation and skill. * Entries from artists who have been professionally commissioned by Bombshell Miniatures are ineligible for the Golden Maelee Trophy at this time, they may still receive Dog Tag awards for their entries. DGS Games * Painter Category; 1st "Gold" coin, 2nd "Silver" Coin & 3rd "Bronze" coin * Diorama Category; 1st "Gold" coin, 2nd "Silver" Coin & 3rd "Bronze" coin Talon Games Talon Games We will be sponsoring a: Best Single CAV Model (Armor/Ordnance) Best CAV Squad (Armor/Ordnance) Best CAV Diorama (Diorama) There will be a trophy for 1st place in each and a medallion for 2nd and 3rd in each with a $50, $25, and $10 gift certificate for all three slots as well.
  14. At the moment things are looking good for us to be at ReaperCon this year, so it will end with the auction. I know there is a vocal bunch that don't like it but Ed likes it. I wish there was a way to control the "cartels" as such but human nature continues to thwart us in that regard. I'll considering opening things up a little differently but we will see how that develops.
  15. For the most part I really don’t do anything different to prep bones for airbrushing, cleaning is recommended especially for a piece like this. I do prefer to prime before I airbrush, it depends on what effects I’ll be adding later on in the process. That being said there is a lot of information about what to prime bones with. Basically avoid anything that is enamel/oil-based, those are the ones that tend to go tacky, stay with acrylic brush on primers or acrylic airbrush primers. I use Badger’s Stynelrez or Vallejo’s primers without thinning (so turn up the PSI). If you don’t prime then that first coat should be with an airbrush designed paint or thinn the paint with an airbrush designed thinner (Vallejo makes one so does Ammo by Mig), to circumvent the hydrophobic nature of Bones. One other thing to keep in mind is that you are dealing with two different plastics on Sophie’s Revenge. The decks and most of the extra parts are a harder plastic, while the hull and upper cabin walls and stairs are bones, in fact the gun deck walls are very “bendy”. Vallejo acrylic paints will work just fine on Bones, it’s enamels and oils you want to stay away from until you have that first coat of acrylic paint on the entire ship.
  16. Honestly, I don't know why anyone would think that kind of hybrid system would work without ticking off everyone that entered. I know it kind of seems like we do that at ReaperCon but the Sophie Awards are truly a medal type competition and its separate from the regular Open Competition.
  17. Just to clarify, when you talk about an Open Style painting competition you are referring to the Open judging system we use at ReaperCon, as opposed to a Trophy type, 1st, 2nd, 3rd place kind of competition. My personal feelings are the judges should be setting a standard to judge to before entering the competition. A competition should foster interest and growth and it needs to evolve if it’s going to grow and, to certain, extent it should be gauged to the painters in the area (you said large convention elsewhere but that doesn’t mean much without actual numbers). When we shifted to Open judging in Colorado the standards were relatively high, the painting group was well established and there were already high level painters living in the area that would compete. It comes down to deciding if you want to grow your event or not. Overly harsh judging will kill off interest faster than anything else. We have been accused that our standards are a bit lax for Reaper Con, although I would personally disagree with that and I think those that have taken years to hit “gold” would as well. An Open Competition should emphasize what you did right and not base it on an artificial standard of “we like person X’s work that’s our gold standard”, that will frustrate people and drive them away. It’s why, at a minimum, a judging team consists of three people and while they do converse they do not actively engage in a scoring conversation. It’s along the lines of “I can score this piece higher than that piece”, once the piece is selected then each judge decides what score between 0 - 4 to award it. They do not review each other’s sheets and won’t know the final score until it’s tabulated. There are no beginner, intermediate or expert levels, that defeats the whole philosophy of the system and makes sure that the same rubric is used is, relatively, consistent to everyone that has entered. That way beginners are likely to receive certificates of merit rather than bronze and experts are more likely to receive silver or gold. I have five or six pinned posts in the ReaperCon section that really help explain what we do and why. I’ll edit this later and add links at the bottom. ReaperCon is big enough that we run multiple teams of judges, typically one team for dioramas, one for armor/ordnance, one for Open and as many as four for painters. It’s one of the reasons that you might see difference in gold, silver and bronze awards, different teams judging different categories. We do try to balance out the teams so you don’t have three tough judges or three softer judges on the same team. I try to mix and match judges when making up the teams and there are judges that won’t be assigned to a specific categories because they it’s not a strength for them, in particular Open and Armor are tough for some of our judges. Not having access to a large judging pool can be a real issue for small shows. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/71583-msp-open-judging-what-you-were-afraid-to-ask/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/82789-judging-the-reaper-con-msp-open-open-division/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/83014-judging-the-reaper-con-msp-open-armorordnance-division/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/82838-judging-the-reaper-con-msp-open-diorama-division/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/82720-judging-the-reaper-con-msp-open-painters-division/
  18. Citadel did become war hammer. Citadel was the miniature manufacturing side of Games Workshop and eventually was just absorbed. Early editions of Warhammer have the citadel logo on them.
  19. I can narrow it down to an old Grenadier or Heritage mini, late 70s, early 80s. Leaning towards Grenadier, more likely to be in one of the historical lines rather than fantasy if that helps.
  20. I started a thread for disassembling Sophie's Revenge (disassembly is now complete). https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/97431-building-the-pirate-ship-sophies-revenge/ I will now be prepping it for re-assembly and, hopefully, adding a lot more detail to it.
  21. There are a fair number of lacquer based paints out there; Mr.Hobby C-series (Mr.Color), Alclad II, Mr.Paint, Gaianotes, SMS, Tamiya Lacquers (also their spray paints) and Zero Paints. I have also heard rumors that the Floquil Lacquer based railroad colors may be coming back into production. I think you are going to be fine order these even with the slow shipping we are experiencing these days, -4 F is pretty darn cold.
  22. And now the Sophie's Revenge is as disassembled as far as I'm willing to take it. I left as many pieces glued together as was possible and, hopefully, achieve my objectives. 1) The hull walls will be attached to the gundeck rather than the upper deck. This way I can fully model the gundeck with cannons in place as well as other interior features. 2) The upper deck will be easily removable which will allow the standing rigging for the lower parts of the masts that are included. 3) A few sails will be added just to imply some motion but leave the decks, relatively, clear for gaming. I have ideas for how to accomplish all of that. However, I'll likely be moving forward pretty slowly, starting with the hull and working my way up. Here are some pictures of the final disassembly: When you have removed all the decks you have very wiggly set of hull walls. I will glue the walls directly to the gundeck, probably using epoxy as opposed to superglue (CA). The forward gunports (far left in the picture) share an edge with the bow section. Because that whole section will need to be removable I'm going to cover up these gunports and reduce the number of cannons on this deck to 8 per side instead of 9. The bow section, there are at least four pieces here and they are going to be a bear to try and take apart so I'm going to leave them as is and this whole section will be removable. This is the only place I decided to cut a joint apart, right at that long very straight section, a portion of which is a gunport. Just a look at the bottom of the bow section This shot gives you an idea of where the joints are and just how hard its likely to be to try and take it apart. I think I would definitely break something if I tried it. A look at the bowsprit. There are at least three pieces here and they are heavily glue together. I'm going to leave it as is. A straight on look at the bowsprit. You can see some significant gaps which will need to be filled and of course plenty of mold lines to deal with. So there you have it, a disassembled Sophie's Revenge! Next phase - Re-building the Sophie's Revenge!
  23. Lacquer based paints might start freezing at -4 Fahrenheit. That's the point the oil paints can start to freeze. I can't find anything specific to lacquer but it is another form of oil paint. With the weather we have been having I don't think freezing is going to be an issue for a while yet.
  24. The third installment on taking Sophie's Revenge down into pieces, big pieces, but still into pieces. One thing to note here is there are actually two different kinds of plastic used on this ship. The two center decks on the upper hull and the two big cross beam supports underneath them are made from a harder plastic, closer to what you would find in a plastic model kit (similar but not the same). I started at the bow, that was the easiest place to get it to start coming apart. Overall the amount of glue on the sides was pretty light with a few exceptions. I started at the bow but the stern is the part that came apart first. I just worked my way around looking for weak spots and joints where I could insert the broad bladed (but dull) sculpting tool The bottom of the rear deck, not the white stress fractures and all the glue at the end where the four support beams were. A look at the now deck less stern And from underneath. Note the large support cross beam made from harder plastic. Another look underneath the aft deck, just to show off all the glue. I accidentally managed to start separating the hand rails. I'll be gluing that back into place right away. And how things match back up with the upper rear decks. Note how this superstructure overlaps both the two rear most decks. Next deck up. The handrails are bones plastic, the deck is something harder. And underneath to show off all those long stress fractures. The only place that I managed to break a piece of the deck. Not much and it should glue right back into place without a problem. And a look at the hull minus two decks now. Two down, two to go...sort of.
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