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Heisler

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Everything posted by Heisler

  1. Finally snagged a little painting time in between building more vehicles to paint. This is the dust stage which is basically anther streaking effect but I included a few more intermediate shots. Here they are after the last time I worked on them and the paint I'm going to use Applying the dots, probably to many dots. This should be a less is more kind of thing you can always go back and do it again to intensify the effect. First pass with a brush of thinner. Its almost a drybrush technique at this point, you should haven't much thinner left on the brush. Just continue to make passes with the brush till you are happy with the effect. All three U304(f)s finished and ready for the next weathering step.
  2. And that’s another good point. If you don’t like it you can sell it.
  3. This one, get this. Masters are China Badger knockoffs but it will give you a much better feel for what airbrushing is really like and if you like it you only need to upgrade the airbrush not the compressor. And while I’m on the Kolinsky side of the coin, a good compressor is really what makes or breaks an airbrush. With a reasonable airflow you can get any airbrush to work.
  4. Then go to harbor freight and get one of their airbrush setups for about $100. At the very least you will come out of it with a decent compressor. I would agree that those setups you are going to look at won’t even give a good first impression of using an airbrush.
  5. Yes, but those are pretty small vehicles. I’ll take a comparison pic when I get a chance. But the technique is the same. I pretty much follow Heresybrush’s style that he uses on 15mm.
  6. For the record, you don’t have to apply a sealer before you use oils or enamels over acrylics. However, if you have put decals on you must seal the decals at the very least. The thinner will eat decals alive. You can see that effect on one of the iron crosses on the WIP I posted. Also most enamel/oil techniques are better done on a glossy surface so I seal with a glossy varnish, usually Vallejo because that’s what I have right now. So I prime, base coat, camo colors, seal for decals, apply decals, seal again, then chipping (acrylic paint), streaking (oils or enamels or both) then weathering with pigments and maybe (and I mean that) seal with a matte sealer. That final seal is dependent on how I “fixed” the pigments.
  7. Streaking effects are always fun. First, before anyone panics, yes you can use oils and enamels on top of acrylic paint, just make sure its dry before you do it. As you have already done, paint the streak straight down from whatever point you have chosen, don't worry it won't look like a streak yet. Give it a couple minutes to dry (varies depends on where you live) now take a brush of thinner (odorless is fine) remove most of the thinner from the brush and drag it down the "streak" you are trying to lengthen and blend it on the vehicle. It takes a little practice. This can be used to represent general grime, rust (just be careful of the color), dirt, dust really anything that will streak from spills or weather. You can look at my WIP on WWII armor the last post shows pictures of streaking effects. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/92704-wwii-german-armor-in-progress/
  8. I have tried the chipping mediums from several companies over the years. I’m just not a fan of it.
  9. It would be nice if all these comments on Reaper Con online were in their own thread. Otherwise they will just be lost.
  10. I have a little more done on these U304 (f)s. This is the chipping stage. I started with the light chips which should be restricted to the brown and green areas. Unfortunately the dunkelgelb I used was probably to light and reads more whiteish than I would like. The dark chips came out much better. I use a torn piece of foam dipped in the paint an dabbed on a paper towel to remove excess paint, think dry brushing. It can be frustrating getting paint out of the sponge so some “chips” are way to big although they don’t look to bad in the end. You can also do chipping with a brush but I have a hard time getting that random look with a brush. Those pictures also show the streaking step which is done with oils and thinner.
  11. Heisler

    Reaper Vex

    Any airbrush compressor will work
  12. I would argue that there is not, nor has there been, anything resembling consistent “28mm”. In fact Heritage, Ral Parthia and Grenadier from the ‘70s are 25mm and they certainly aren’t consistent between each other or even within their own brands. Citadel miniatures from the 80s and 90s might be more consistent but only because they only used a few different sculptors, of course that’s the brand that really launched us in to 28mm.
  13. They don’t have many resin kits, but I have the M32B1 ARV on the way.
  14. The issue with using artist pastels by scraping down or sanding down the stick is that it still contains the acerbic gum that is used to hold it together and you don’t get the even consistency of the bottled pigments. On the other had model railroaders have been using pastel chalks for weathering for 50-60 years. It’s one reason I prefer the Pan Pastel range for my weathering.
  15. Agreed, Trenchworx is very good, Rubicon resin is amazing. If Rubicon makes it, they are my first choice.
  16. Here they are after fading the top surfaces a bit. I’m not sure I’ll keep using this technique since it tends to get lost in the other weathering effects.
  17. I won’t buy Warlord Games resin vehicles unless there is no choice anymore, Mad Bob’s has certainly filled in some the French conversion choices quite nicely.
  18. The problem is that fantasy gamers are pure amateurs compared to historical gamers. For example I am an old Napoleonic gamer, plus ACW and WWII in 15mm. For those periods, in that scale, I have painted approximately 15,000 15mm miniatures. I literally have no idea how many 28mm miniatures I have painted for fantasy and historical miniatures but it’s certainly in excess of 1000. The unpainted hordes are unnumbered at this point but probably exceed 2000 without really thinking about it.
  19. I was in on the knuckleduster Kickstarter. The miniatures are great, they have really improved by leaps and bounds over some of their earlier sculpts. My opinion on the rules is that it’s really just a cleaned up version of their old Desperado rules. So solid and fun to play but with some of those little quirks that drive me nuts.
  20. Despite the claims all of the pigments out there are very similar. I haven’t used Vallejo’s but I have used Ammo, MiG, AK Interactive and Secret Weapon pigments. They all behave the same way. They can be lightly fixed in place with white spirits and most companies have a “fixer” that will pretty much make them permanent. I actual prefer the Pan Pastels which are a bit “stickier” and come in more of a cake form. If you intend to seal the pigments with a matte or gloss coat they must be fixed in place with a fixer or put on really heavy. The force from a can or airbrush can easily blow them off.
  21. Now I understand the question better. Yes the Unic P107 uses Kégresse Halftrack suspension.
  22. Those are U304 (f) halftracks built up from the French Unic P107 artillery tractor.
  23. Leopard spot camo, or so they say, used quite a bit in Nomandy which is the campaign I’ll be playing is set.
  24. Thought there might be a little interest here, just trying to keep busy. These are some odd vehicles used by the 21st Panzer Division that we’re converted from captured French vehicles by Major Becker and his team. I’m posting here at the point where painting, mostly, has begun. For more details on the builds you can check this link on my blog:Wargames & Railroads
  25. I finally finished some of the WWII German tanks that I have in the stash. These are a bit on the unusual side even for the Germans. The 21st Panzer Division was part of the German’s D-Day defenses but had not really been properly equipped. Major Alfred Becker converted Obsolete French tanks and carriers to help equip the Division. These are from Mad Bob Miniatures, they are all resin and only require a bit of assembly. The resin is a bit on the soft side and the longer gun had to be straightened. The castings are a bit rough as well but since they are gaming pieces I didn’t take the time to smooth things out, just normal prep. I would have liked something a bit more detailed but, for the price and the amount of use they will see, they are about perfect. , Here are the ones I have completed so far: Starting off with the mSPW S307(f) with a Pak 40 ATG Then 3 self propelled artillery pieces, SdKfz 135/1 “Lorraine Schlepper” These are relatively small vehicles so they don’t need a lot of storage room. Since they are open topped they will be getting a few crew figures at some point as well. The 135/1 should have a blade in the back to absorb recoil when the gun is fired. I’m still considering scratch building these because they seem a bit incomplete right now.
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