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Steg

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  1. Attempt number 2. Start with Reaper 77015: Bugbear Warrior, poorly painted. Let it sit overnight to dry. Then apply a thin coat of Liquitex Gloss Varnish, and allow 12 or so hours to dry. Being careful to try to put it on very thin and carefully. Then apply a 2nd thin coat of the same, and 12 more hours. Again, carefully. Not much of a difference, other than the photography being worse. But it's there! Lastly, a very careful thin coat of Testors Dullcote Lacquer (1160), somewhat thinned with some Testors Lacquer Thinner & Brush Cleaner (1159). A little but of dulli
  2. Start with three Goblins, painted (poorly) with MSP. (Reaper bones Goblins 20024) Then give two of them two coats each of Liquitex Gloss Varnish - Artist Acrylic 6208, with 3 hours between each coat. Shiny! They're dry, but don't look like it. The spearman is the Control (unvarnished). Next, the Matte sealers. The Spearman is still the control. The archer was given a coat of Liquitex Matte Varnish - Artist Acrylic 5216. The Liquitex Matte goes on just like the Liquitex Gloss, its milky and tranlucent, and prone to bubbling. I have to give it a good coating, then go bac
  3. My attempt at Q-tipping didn't work. I think the key is probably to get a small amount on the swab, then sort of blot at it. I soaked it then drug it across the surface, which just made a huge ugly smear which you can see on the skeleton base. So, skipping that part, I used a normal drybrush to get some 09087 Weathered Stone on the bases, and 09060 Polished Bone on the skeletons themselves. Next I used some 09294 Alien Goo to drybrush on the ghost ladies. It worked okish, didn't really look very green, just got kind of pale and hazy. Next some X-25 Clear Green with X-20
  4. I tried knarthex's Pin-Wash, putting a wash of 09288 LED Blue and trying to just get it in the rune cracks, not everywhere. Worked ok! Later, I tried the reverse, putting a wash of 09136 Walnut Brown over the base, trying hard to not let it go into the rune cracks. Eventually, I'm going to try to dry-brush, or q-tip to break up the stone. I also slathered some wash on the skeletons base because I had extra, and why not. Wet: After it dried a bit: Time for a fire wall. The one on the right is coated with Tamiya X-22 Clear. The one on the left is stock.
  5. I need to get my gloss sealer on there before I handle them too much, but here's the cube with base: Here's the seam where you can see a bit of the superglue in there. But overall, I think it's pretty cool!
  6. I found these guys I started last year. I think it's just a bunch of Tamiya Clear Green on them, with bases done in Reaper Brush-on Primer. I put a layer of 09086 Stone Grey over the primer. Thin layer, it didn't want to go on very well. Needs a bunch more coats, but I don't want to fill in the carved runes. I then put a bit of Walnut Brown wash on the skeleton base, which at the time looked like a cool stone effect, but under the harsh light of the next day just looked bad. The green ladies get some LED Blue on the runes in the base. Then the base gets 09085 Shadowed Sto
  7. The pile of Stuff for the cube base got a base coat of Brown Liner. Lots of details on this mini! I love it. Then I painted anything that looked like it could be a bone with 09060 Polished Bone. A wild mold line appears! I painted the pouch, weapon handles, and insides of the round shields with 09031 Tanned Leather. I painted the kite shield, round shield borders, and weapon blades with 09207 True Silver. I painted the center guy's clothing/pants with 09217 Magma Red, the wizard's cloak and hat with 09016 Sapphire Blue, the hair with 0
  8. I've been painting off and on, taking pictures but not posting or writing anything down, so some of this is kind of hazy now. I should try to post more, smaller, increments. At least something got done! Water Wave guy got some drybrushing of 09288 LED Blue I did... something to Crystal Guy, but didn't write down what it was. I think I probably did the LED BLue drybrushing on him, too, but it doesn't show up very well. Check out the blue base shining through the paint job, though, kinda neat. I wish I did that on purpose, to the whole thing. What I can only assume was a wash on
  9. The gem guy needs some highlights, so I did a bit of edging in 09063 Ghost White. I didn't do very well, it's really sloppy, but the effect has promise. I found it works MUCH better if you do it like drybrushing, don't get too much paint on the brush or it goes all over the place. After the edging, I put on some Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue to try to tone down the parts where I slopped the white all over. Then, disaster struck, and I tipped over the pot of clear blue. I managed to grab the biggest garbage-brush I had and mop a great deal of it up and back in the pot, and the table isn't stained t
  10. Gem-edge and runes in 09049 Ancient Bronze Teeth and eyes with 09066 Blue Liner Teeth and eyes in 09063 Ghost White A little wash of thinned Blue Liner to try to tone down the white and cover some smudges Lastly, a bit of the wash over the bronze and in some cracks and stuff, and I think this one is done!
  11. Some work on the Water Wierd. Crests done in thinned Reaper 09288 LED Blue Tips in Reaper 09063 Ghost White Base in thinned Reaper 09066 Blue Liner Base in Reaper 09085 Shadowed Stone Kinda drybrushed in 09086 Stone Grey Edges drybrushed in 09087 Weathered Stone The edges around the gem things, and the script underneath in 09136 Walnut Brown Next is to put some kind of metallic over the Walnut Brown. Not sure which. Silver looks nice, as evidenced by Laoke's linked earlier. Bronze could be ok, but som
  12. Wolf teeth got some 09136 Walnut Brown (thinned to a wash, but applied carefully). Tentacle bases got a full wash from it, except for (most of) the stones. This is a blue mini, with a full coat of undiluted X-23 Clear Blue, well dried. I put some X-19 Smoke on the cracks and lowest areas. Not bad! Encouraged, I thinned down some Smoke with X-20A thinner, which looked real dark still, so I mixed in some Clear Blue to make a dark, thin, blue washy shadow sauce. It's so hard to work with this stuff, it's like it wants to pool up and then evapor
  13. I attempted to mostly dry-brush the suckers with Reaper 09024 Amethyst Purple. I then put a little dot of 09023 Imperial Purple into the center bits (to mask where I screwed up and got Amethyst in there). I then went back with a stiffer brush and put a little water on then jabbed at the bits I painted in between suckers, the paint kind of broke up into tiny specks then got sucked up into the brush. It's not close to perfect (some of the close up pictures are brutal) but it looks good from a distance. I think I'm pretty close to done with these guys. There's the bumpy ridge
  14. Yeah, the pictures are kind of wierd, and in-person I get painting fatigue or something and they all end up looking kind of terrible. I need to just take them outside or something when I haven't been painting for an hour and give them a good look to figure out what to do next. Sleep on it, you know? In any case, it's better than just a coat of clear, and WAY better than unpainted. I think it would be nice if there was a bit more variation between the dark parts and the light parts, but not sure how best to do that. Maybe (in the future) coat the whole mini in a really thinned down coat, then a
  15. Next, I painted the base of the tentacles in Reaper 09109 Ruddy Leather. It was kind of wierd since it was still slightly transparent. Maybe because I thinned the paint? I did the wolf and ghost base, and the tentacle rocks in Reaper 09086 Stone Grey. I put a coat of Reaper 09037 Pure Black on the batguy's base. It didn't want to go on very well. Actually looks better in the pictures than in person. Then I put on some Reaper 09135 Carnage Red. It also didn't want to work well, I ended up blobbing it on, where it would scoot around and pool up (n
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