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Everything posted by Steg

  1. Attempt number 2. Start with Reaper 77015: Bugbear Warrior, poorly painted. Let it sit overnight to dry. Then apply a thin coat of Liquitex Gloss Varnish, and allow 12 or so hours to dry. Being careful to try to put it on very thin and carefully. Then apply a 2nd thin coat of the same, and 12 more hours. Again, carefully. Not much of a difference, other than the photography being worse. But it's there! Lastly, a very careful thin coat of Testors Dullcote Lacquer (1160), somewhat thinned with some Testors Lacquer Thinner & Brush Cleaner (1159). A little but of dulli
  2. Start with three Goblins, painted (poorly) with MSP. (Reaper bones Goblins 20024) Then give two of them two coats each of Liquitex Gloss Varnish - Artist Acrylic 6208, with 3 hours between each coat. Shiny! They're dry, but don't look like it. The spearman is the Control (unvarnished). Next, the Matte sealers. The Spearman is still the control. The archer was given a coat of Liquitex Matte Varnish - Artist Acrylic 5216. The Liquitex Matte goes on just like the Liquitex Gloss, its milky and tranlucent, and prone to bubbling. I have to give it a good coating, then go bac
  3. My attempt at Q-tipping didn't work. I think the key is probably to get a small amount on the swab, then sort of blot at it. I soaked it then drug it across the surface, which just made a huge ugly smear which you can see on the skeleton base. So, skipping that part, I used a normal drybrush to get some 09087 Weathered Stone on the bases, and 09060 Polished Bone on the skeletons themselves. Next I used some 09294 Alien Goo to drybrush on the ghost ladies. It worked okish, didn't really look very green, just got kind of pale and hazy. Next some X-25 Clear Green with X-20
  4. I tried knarthex's Pin-Wash, putting a wash of 09288 LED Blue and trying to just get it in the rune cracks, not everywhere. Worked ok! Later, I tried the reverse, putting a wash of 09136 Walnut Brown over the base, trying hard to not let it go into the rune cracks. Eventually, I'm going to try to dry-brush, or q-tip to break up the stone. I also slathered some wash on the skeletons base because I had extra, and why not. Wet: After it dried a bit: Time for a fire wall. The one on the right is coated with Tamiya X-22 Clear. The one on the left is stock.
  5. I need to get my gloss sealer on there before I handle them too much, but here's the cube with base: Here's the seam where you can see a bit of the superglue in there. But overall, I think it's pretty cool!
  6. I found these guys I started last year. I think it's just a bunch of Tamiya Clear Green on them, with bases done in Reaper Brush-on Primer. I put a layer of 09086 Stone Grey over the primer. Thin layer, it didn't want to go on very well. Needs a bunch more coats, but I don't want to fill in the carved runes. I then put a bit of Walnut Brown wash on the skeleton base, which at the time looked like a cool stone effect, but under the harsh light of the next day just looked bad. The green ladies get some LED Blue on the runes in the base. Then the base gets 09085 Shadowed Sto
  7. The pile of Stuff for the cube base got a base coat of Brown Liner. Lots of details on this mini! I love it. Then I painted anything that looked like it could be a bone with 09060 Polished Bone. A wild mold line appears! I painted the pouch, weapon handles, and insides of the round shields with 09031 Tanned Leather. I painted the kite shield, round shield borders, and weapon blades with 09207 True Silver. I painted the center guy's clothing/pants with 09217 Magma Red, the wizard's cloak and hat with 09016 Sapphire Blue, the hair with 0
  8. I've been painting off and on, taking pictures but not posting or writing anything down, so some of this is kind of hazy now. I should try to post more, smaller, increments. At least something got done! Water Wave guy got some drybrushing of 09288 LED Blue I did... something to Crystal Guy, but didn't write down what it was. I think I probably did the LED BLue drybrushing on him, too, but it doesn't show up very well. Check out the blue base shining through the paint job, though, kinda neat. I wish I did that on purpose, to the whole thing. What I can only assume was a wash on
  9. The gem guy needs some highlights, so I did a bit of edging in 09063 Ghost White. I didn't do very well, it's really sloppy, but the effect has promise. I found it works MUCH better if you do it like drybrushing, don't get too much paint on the brush or it goes all over the place. After the edging, I put on some Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue to try to tone down the parts where I slopped the white all over. Then, disaster struck, and I tipped over the pot of clear blue. I managed to grab the biggest garbage-brush I had and mop a great deal of it up and back in the pot, and the table isn't stained t
  10. Gem-edge and runes in 09049 Ancient Bronze Teeth and eyes with 09066 Blue Liner Teeth and eyes in 09063 Ghost White A little wash of thinned Blue Liner to try to tone down the white and cover some smudges Lastly, a bit of the wash over the bronze and in some cracks and stuff, and I think this one is done!
  11. Some work on the Water Wierd. Crests done in thinned Reaper 09288 LED Blue Tips in Reaper 09063 Ghost White Base in thinned Reaper 09066 Blue Liner Base in Reaper 09085 Shadowed Stone Kinda drybrushed in 09086 Stone Grey Edges drybrushed in 09087 Weathered Stone The edges around the gem things, and the script underneath in 09136 Walnut Brown Next is to put some kind of metallic over the Walnut Brown. Not sure which. Silver looks nice, as evidenced by Laoke's linked earlier. Bronze could be ok, but som
  12. Wolf teeth got some 09136 Walnut Brown (thinned to a wash, but applied carefully). Tentacle bases got a full wash from it, except for (most of) the stones. This is a blue mini, with a full coat of undiluted X-23 Clear Blue, well dried. I put some X-19 Smoke on the cracks and lowest areas. Not bad! Encouraged, I thinned down some Smoke with X-20A thinner, which looked real dark still, so I mixed in some Clear Blue to make a dark, thin, blue washy shadow sauce. It's so hard to work with this stuff, it's like it wants to pool up and then evapor
  13. I attempted to mostly dry-brush the suckers with Reaper 09024 Amethyst Purple. I then put a little dot of 09023 Imperial Purple into the center bits (to mask where I screwed up and got Amethyst in there). I then went back with a stiffer brush and put a little water on then jabbed at the bits I painted in between suckers, the paint kind of broke up into tiny specks then got sucked up into the brush. It's not close to perfect (some of the close up pictures are brutal) but it looks good from a distance. I think I'm pretty close to done with these guys. There's the bumpy ridge
  14. Yeah, the pictures are kind of wierd, and in-person I get painting fatigue or something and they all end up looking kind of terrible. I need to just take them outside or something when I haven't been painting for an hour and give them a good look to figure out what to do next. Sleep on it, you know? In any case, it's better than just a coat of clear, and WAY better than unpainted. I think it would be nice if there was a bit more variation between the dark parts and the light parts, but not sure how best to do that. Maybe (in the future) coat the whole mini in a really thinned down coat, then a
  15. Next, I painted the base of the tentacles in Reaper 09109 Ruddy Leather. It was kind of wierd since it was still slightly transparent. Maybe because I thinned the paint? I did the wolf and ghost base, and the tentacle rocks in Reaper 09086 Stone Grey. I put a coat of Reaper 09037 Pure Black on the batguy's base. It didn't want to go on very well. Actually looks better in the pictures than in person. Then I put on some Reaper 09135 Carnage Red. It also didn't want to work well, I ended up blobbing it on, where it would scoot around and pool up (n
  16. I have returned with Tamiya X-20A Thinner, which I will use as an excuse for not getting anything done. Attempting the Laoke Method I put down some X-23 Clear Blue in the spots I wanted darker, the cracks and crevices and such. Wave Elemental: mostly on the bottom, underside of the chin, armpits, and some of the deeper nooks. Humanoid Elemental: the cracks between arm plates, the ... belly? Lower back? The part just above his thighs, I guess. Also his feet, and a few spikes up behind his head. Water Wierd: The underside of the eel, the bendy-parts, and the
  17. Very little work, even less progress. I tried mixing up some Smoke, with a bit of water, thinning agent, and Clear. I was hoping to end up with something like a wash I could get in the cracks to darken some things up and provide definition. Here's the wolf, mostly looking at his ribs and arm muscles. and his impressive six-pack. Spectre lady thing got some of her dress darkened, mostly the big folds at the bottom, and a bit on the dangly arm bits. Bat Guy got some attempts at smoothing out the wing mess, and a little bit along most of the lines on his body (down the ta
  18. Here's some slimes. On the Left is untreated (the Cube's dinner), Center is Clear (the 'wave'), and right is Smoke (the puddle). This time the 'wave' was entirely coated in Clear, not just half of it. and on blue: For the wolf, I tried to get fancy. I mixed clear and Smoke on the furry parts, clear on the skin parts, and a tiny dab of blue on the eyes. I couldn't see much of a difference, so I kept adding more smoke. In the pictures it looks much more distinct. I think as it dries, it shows up more? Or congeals or whatever. We'll see if it looks terrible in t
  19. More testing stuff. 'Wave' Slime, half untreated, half with Tamiya X-22 Clear. (Clear is the back half, on the right) Against blue background. (X-22 Clear is on the left side, now.) Purple Shadow Bat Guy with X-19 Smoke on the left side, untreated middle bits, and X-22 Clear on the right. (Smoke is HIS right wing, Clear is HIS left wing) Boy it really looks bad. I think that's my fault, it was all sludgey and not applied well. Group shot: Untreated wolf, Neapolitan bat guy center, and fully clear-coated spectre lady on the right.
  20. I've got the rest all prepped. But it turns out I don't have nearly as many clear transparent bones as I thought. In fact, I've only got one more. (Plus the cube, which I don't plan to experiment on). AND they're not available in the reaper store. Argh. Come on, Reaper, it's not like you're swamped with dealing with multiple kickstarters or anthing ;) I hadn't thought of thinning, that's a great idea. Was 2:1 with two parts water and one paint, or the other way around? Also, I JUST picked up a bottle of LED blue two days ago! Someone had hidden it down on a mystery shelf wit
  21. Today I found all this, and in an effort to clear off some desk space for the project I was intending to work on, my attempt at finishing it. So here's that purple spectre, after being reset by SimpleGreen, with a fresh coat of my brand-new Tamiya X-22 Clear: It's much lighter than before, but still has that glossy candy shine to it, which just looks shiny in the photos, but I think looks pretty nice in person. What I love about the Tamiya clears and translucent bones is how easy it is to slap a coat on and have the mini transformed from plastic to shiny liquid coolness, how extra-transluc
  22. I did most of this five months ago, then didn't quite finish it, then forgot all about it. So picture descriptions are from (hazy) memory. Hopefully it's still interesting to someone. I've got 3 Transparent Bones, purple spectre lady (Reaper 92856 Shadow), clear slime guy (Reaper 92766 Gelatinous Cube), and blue crystal thing (Reaper 92773 Water Elemental). First, I put a little dab of Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue on the purple spectre, just to see what happens. And what happens is it basically covers it all up and doesn't look good. Unless you really want a barely-translucent off-bl
  23. It funded, add-ons available (metal dice!), some stretch goals unlocked, and more info about the game is available. (Also, the mats are quite a bit larger than I originally thought) The KS ends tomorrow, for flagging/thread-locking purposes, since I can't figure out how to do that myself.
  24. kickstarter.com/projects/2025187024/hoplomachus-origins (This isn't my KS, and I'm not affiliated with the creators other than as a customer and having met them a couple times at a convention.) This is the third game in the Hoplomachus series. The first two were successfully kickstarted, and are (IMO) great games. Basically, there's a mat with a hex grid on it, and you play Gladiator units represented by poker-style chips. Each unit has health, represented by the stack of red chips underneath it. There are multiple 'cities' that each have unique units and special abilities. You mo
  25. And here they are, two coats of glossy sealer, and two or three coats of matte. The Liquitex matte isn't nearly as good as the spray-on Testors Dullcote IMO, but it works and I don't have to wait for spring to seal them. The Razor (little one) doens't look as good as the rest, I think, the thicker base coat of red just ended up looking kind of plasticy. I think in the future I'm going to wash them and put dark stuff in the cracks, and try to have the glowing highlights or whatever stand out more. They're a little dull. Anyway, close enough to tabletop quality for me, and the CAV quickstart rul
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