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Everything posted by bushido

  1. Yep...I saw it last night. She's wearin' a bikini. Yeah, you're right. Just saw a more high quality version online. She's wearing light colored/white panties or somesuch. It does look like a pretty good movie though...
  2. Alright, I'm probably over-reacting, but let me set the scene for you: Wed, August 18 7:08 pm EST. So there I was, watching Friends, when a commercial for an upcoming movie- Garden State- comes on. I'd never seen it before, so I was paying more attention than I normally would, and my efforts were rewarded by none other than, you guessed it, frontal nudity!!! Okay, so it was distorted by the water in the pool, but like the title says, it's the principle of the thing. Perhaps we backward Americans are finally casting off our odd inhibitions.
  3. It's not a book, but this site has a large number of artists' works.
  4. That is a lot of metal. Perhaps industrial grade adhesive is in order?
  5. Perhaps, in addition to taking frequent breaks, you should ice your wrists occasionally. If the problem continues, consulting your doctor is probably the best bet.
  6. Well, I've been rooting around this Dickblick site for a while. Thanks for the link. Perhaps I should start another post about this, but what are the advantages/disadvantages of tube paints over the Vallejo/GW type? It seems to me that the tube paints would be thicker and require more work...but also have a higher pigment content...
  7. It seems I've reached an impasse. I feel that I'm as good as I'm going to get using the stuff I am now...so I come to you. What are the "high-end" painting supplies, and is there a decent place to buy them online? I've heard that Vallejo paints are nice. I've also heard that these Winsor & Newton brushes are great, but none of the art supply stores in my area carry them. Suggestions?
  8. Don't put Future Floor Finish directly into Apple Barrel and Delta paints...it makes them smell like rotten milk after about a month...
  9. The problem is (and this is going into the other thread's topic), someone did care enough to remove Zaphod's, and yet this one is still around... If you're going to make a rule, it should apply to everyone equally...and should probably be consistent from one part of the site to another.
  10. This is something I've had a hard time understanding. Reaper produces miniatures with nudity, but then turns around and requests that we either not display them or otherwise censor them. Is it simply becuase they are painted and not just "bare metal?" I understand this is a "family forum" but it seems like a double standard: buy our stuff, but just don't admit to it... Odd... This is in no way meant as an insult to the people at Reaper. I'm grateful for all the work they do to produce and support these minis.
  11. I've been raking my mind for a way to make drake-riding space marines when I came across this: Chronopia Ophidian Does anyone know how big this is? I mean, would a 28mm mini look okay sitting on the back of this?
  12. Apple Barrel may not be the highest quality, but with enough patience, they can produce rather nice results...as the Golden Demons sitting on my shelf will confirm.
  13. I'm in the same boat as Enchantra. I wish I could afford the higher-end stuff...but alas, I cannot. Take Kevin's advice and get the high quality stuff if you can afford it. There's no sense in putting yourself at a "disadvantage" if you can help it.
  14. Looks like he's got you trained pretty well.
  15. I'm not sure about the others, but for the orc one, perhaps you could try using a reddish-brown was after you've highlighted the grey. This will give it some color back and you can always go over top with more grey. I'm not sure if this would work, but you could also consider using a dark brown as your base and mixing in a medium grey for the highlights. I say medium grey because if you use too light a grey, it may act like white.
  16. Here's me...at Gamesday. I don't have all that hair anymore, and I'm working on the goofy grin. Give me a break, it was my first Golden Demon.
  17. Metallics are also subject to the kind of sealer (sealant?) you use. Take this mini, for example. Before I sprayed some Dull Coat on it, the blending on the bolter (aka: big honkin' gun) was pretty smooth. It was only after this that I realized how blocky it looks. Also, Dull Coat will, of course, dull the metallics, while NMM remains constant.
  18. For mine, which I hope to have pictures of soon, I used a dark purple base and mixed in a pale flesh color. This gave it an almost natural look, while still retaining an exotic hue. The hair I painted like a platinum/bleached blonde.
  19. Perhaps you should give us at least one of these theories...
  20. I usually do the skin first, as my technique is rather messy (lots of washes). After that, it depends on the mini. To save time I usually select minis with as little clothing as possible... *ahem* I tend to paint faces last, though I've heard it's better to get this out of the way first, just in case you mess up.
  21. I'm not sure there's any real benefit, other than the "wow" factor if it's done right. NMM is just another technique for an artist to add to his repertoire, like effective drybrushing, blending, and that light-source thing (diagenic? ). It does, however, seem to require a good deal of skill to get it to look right, and that may be why the top artists use it so much. That said, I think painting metallics really well is just as hard and looks just as good, if not better, than well-excecuted NMM. From what I've seen and heard, NMM is either a "you like it or you don't" kinda thing.
  22. I prefer to highlight, then wash, then highlight again...especially on skin. This gives a subtle effect and allows me to better control the end result. Sometimes washes are too unpredictable.
  23. It seems to me like theft would be an issue, what with the nice computer equipment in there... Are you not worried about this?
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