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About BloodRose9337

  • Birthday 11/08/1987

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bryson City, NC
  • Interests
    Gaming, Painting, Sculpting, and Cooking.

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  1. My DM commisioned a few models for our game, but I am completly stumpped on one. He wants a model based on the New 52 Joker, but shirtless. I have been digging for a while and can't find anything. Anyone have ideas?
  2. If you want to go for straght practice, you could use the starter heads. 10 Heads and no messig up a mini. http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bobby%20jackson/sku-down/75010
  3. I still love how much a simple wash can do. Denethor looks much better, and (as my Tolkien loving wife pointed out) the darker look works well for him. You sword cleric looks much better and everything looks much cleaner than before. Your eyes still need work and the tutorial is amazing, if not technical. I don;t know how intentional this was, but Denethor has a nice "crazy eyes" look.
  4. I thought it looked intentional. It does give some definition to the piece. I like the broccoli idea, so that trick will be stolen.
  5. Games-Workshop made a good how to paint video. it covers some very basic painting techniques and is a good place to start.
  6. This sounds odd, but your soap may be the culprit in some cases. Scented soaps tend to contain oils. These oils can affect your paint's ability to stick. I ran into this problem once and the best fix is to use the cheap stuff. No scent, no oils. Uhm, that really odd. Acrylic paint should have dried completely. I've seen enamles stay tacky for a long time over plastic, but never acrylics. If you live in a humid area it can happen. I live in the mountains of western NC. In the summer, it gets very humid and paint can take days to dry if it rains frequently.
  7. I would pin the big stuff, but the small models, it really depends on what you plan to do with them. If they are for display, pinning may be overkill. If you plan to use them for gaming, pinning them may prevent you from re-attaching them constantly. My group tries to be careful, but last week I dropped a friends mini. Model went one way, base went another. Accidents happen, so it is best to plan for them,
  8. I really thought those were traditionally based. Impressive illusion. I think your way is much more difficult, so cudos. My bases look so sad now...
  9. A hollow Kaly could look impressive. Must see where this is going. Eyes and skin are easier to sculpt than one would think. If you stick the the rib area, just lay a sheet of Green Stuff over and set it flush to the model. Use Crocodiles, Tuatara, or Agama Lizards as a guide to give a nice prehistoric look.
  10. I have read that Tamiya tends to hum up a brush. Not seen anything on the Freak Flex used in the video. I have some on order and hope to try it out. If I run into problems, I will update.
  11. I actually trained as a sculptor for a few years. I mainly did earthen ware, so misting is just second nature. Hopefully my local craft store has some sculpey, I have to get some clay in my hands again. May put some of my techniques on here when I work the rust off. All the tools you have up there are pretty standard in ceramics. If live near any large enough city, you can get them pretty cheap. If not, go online.
  12. I will have to borrow that trick from the axe. Gives it a nice eerie look. Would look awesome on the new haunts
  13. Never would have thought to go blue on him. I love the light effect from the blade.
  14. I love these models. It could be the lighting, but your bronze looks to have a patina. Nice look.
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