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Everything posted by CrimsonStar
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Rulebooks are guidebooks and not the definitive answer to any question that may arise during play. The GM is. But you also don't want to run the game with an iron fist. You want everyone to have fun, so think of the game as collaborative storytelling instead of rolling dice and checking stats.
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Bones: The First Coat is the Difference
CrimsonStar replied to Wren's topic in Reaper's Product Lines
I've used Liquitex white gesso brushed on and also have added a few drops of black craft paint to it and brushed it on. In both cases, works great as a primer for Bones.- 247 replies
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- basecoat
- durability
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Fulfilling Reaper Bones 3: Post-Kickstarter Discussion
CrimsonStar replied to Reaperbryan's topic in Kickstarter
Received mine today and everything was there. Like the previous Bones products, the larger minis are great and an excellent value, but the regular sized and smaller ones are on par with the past Bones minis: floppy swords, poorly detailed faces, etc. The Dark Sword DVDs are really excellent though. -
Fulfilling Reaper Bones 3: Post-Kickstarter Discussion
CrimsonStar replied to Reaperbryan's topic in Kickstarter
My package was showing Tuesday delivery, but now shows it's out for delivery today. It's making these last two hours of work difficult to focus on, especially when I live right across the street! -
Fat Dragon Ravenfell Buildings
CrimsonStar replied to Rob Dean's topic in Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain
I'd recommend buying a can of spray adhesive. It'll make it much easier and neater to attach the paper to cardstock. -
I didn't get any results when searching the forum, but has anyone used the dipping method with Bones figures? I have a ton of them left to paint and just want to get them over with to move on to other things and dipping has worked well with other minis in the past to get a decent look with minimal effort. I use Miniwax to dip. Does anyone know whether they stay tacky or have any adverse effects when dipped?
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When I was in my FLGS picking up some of the WizKids minis I had the same discussion about D&D vs. PF goblins with the owner :)
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I kinda liked the dreadlocks b/c it gave them that grungy, funky feel. I like to collect troll minis that are as different from your typical troll. The Fenryll and Naheulbeuk ones are some of my favorites, but these WizKids ones definitely have a place on the table for me.
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I've done the Pathfinder male clerics and the D&D female barbarians and two trolls and have to say, I like them. I just opened them and started painting without any washing or priming and got great results. Unlike Bones, there's no searching around for secret methods to prep them, no boiling to straighten them, they're just great for fast painting to use on the table. I'll still stick with metal for figures I want to display, but these have definitely become my go to minis for tabletop play.
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Got my book last week and minis yesterday. Absolutely love the sculpts. Now to get painting!
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Fulfilling PSI-PALADINS and TECHNO BARBARIANS 28mm MINIATURES
CrimsonStar replied to SamuraiJack's topic in Kickstarter
I back pretty much back anything Damon and/or Andrea put out. Great guys and excellent, unique products. Fightin' Fungi and Project Simian are some of my favorite minis ever. Can't wait for the PSI-Paladins! -
Krylon Craft Foam Primer(update on page 2)
CrimsonStar replied to chaoshead's topic in Tips & Advice: Painting
Has anyone used this to prime Bones minis? I've got boxes of them left unpainted because of how they react to most aerosal propellants.- 23 replies
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- spray paint
- foam
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I wanted to do this on a grand scale, like 300 pieces. I was hoping to use couplings so I don't have to cut that may pieces. ~125 Reaper bottles ~72 Scalecolor bottles ~18 Armypainter bottles ~10 Vallejo droppers ~8 Secret Weapon droppers So 300 spaces for whatever I end up with (and a little expansion). I'll happily take suggestions from the forum folks on how to proceed. If you don't have an electric saw of some kind to cut, get a cheap pair of PVC pipe cutters. Much easier than a hand saw.
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I posted an image of a paint rack I made a while back in another thread recently, but here's the pic again. It's made using PVC, foamboard, and hot glue.
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Here's one of the first ones I built a couple of years ago. Not as clean looking as others I've done, but still functional. Latter ones I've done have the sides sticking out enough to put another piece of foamboard over the paints as a lid:
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I make storage cases for my paint out of PVC pipe and foamboard. I cut pieces of PVC just long enough so that the cap of the paint bottle will stick out. I lay them flat and hot-glue them into rows of about 10-12 and stack them about 3-4 high. Then I use foamboard to make sides, top/bottom, and back. I cut a spare piece of foamboard that wedges over the front for when I want to take it with me. It looks similar to a wine-rack, but for paint. The PVC pipe is about $2 for 8' and a sheet of foamboard is $1 at Dollar Tree, so making multiple racks is fairly inexpensive.
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I'll definitely second Fat Dragon for papercraft. Easy and relatively quick to build. Looks good on the table. If you're interested in making your own terrain check out DM Scotty videos on YouTube or his FB group. I'd also recommend the book "How to Make Wargames Terrain" by GW. I picked up a used copy years ago and still reference it.
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I might be teaching someone... How do I do that?
CrimsonStar replied to Tarsemina's topic in Tips & Advice: Painting
I've held paint nights at my house to help friends get into painting. They will generally have varied experience levels so I always approach it as though none of them have any experience and cover the basics (cleaning and prepping, priming, base colors, washes, drybrushing, then sealing.) One important step I always add is clean up (how to store paints, clean brushes, clean work area, etc.) -
Received mine today and these look great! Perfect for a WEG Star Wars game I'm running as well as a Fallout RPG I'm playing in. Can't wait to get them painted.
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I ran into this problem while assembling minis from a Kickstarter I had backed recently. My usual discount store brand wouldn't bond no matter what I tried. Ended up buying a bottle of Gorilla Glue Gel and in under a minute the parts bonded. Even dropped a mini from waist high to the floor and it stayed together.
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Yep, my missing minis arrived yesterday, too. Finally can check this Kickstarter off of my list
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Tolkien Bones/LE advice and future suggestions?
CrimsonStar replied to Librariarch's topic in Reaper's Product Lines
Regarding official LotR minis, I'm guessing the GW game has lost its appeal for many because a lot of vendors at cons and model shows I've been going to lately have been selling large lots of used minis from the lines (plastic, usually primed or painted to some degree) relatively cheap. I also see many players unloading them on various forums, too. So that may be a viable option. As for actual Reaper minis, I think it comes down to your interpretation of the creatures and characters from the books and/or films so the answer to your question will vary based on everyone's individual thoughts on that. I love the Orcs Reaper makes, but many will say they don't fit the Tolkien look of Orcs, but I prefer them. The same with Reaper's Goblins. I prefer them to the Paizo style ones and don't really care for the GW ones at all. Also, Mossbeard and the Saprolings are some of the best tree people I've seen. -
There are pics of the minis up on WizKids site now. The price range is $2.99-$3.99 which isn't bad considering most will come with 2-3 minis or 1 large mini/monster. Until they're actually released and I have one in my hands I can't give an opinion, but I'm optimistic. Hopefully spending the day boiling minis to straighten them out will be a thing of the past.
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Pictures or it didn't happen... Seriously, post some pics of it because the 'Scenic water' is kind of expensive while PVA glue is cheap. It's been a while since I painted it (from the first Kickstarter package) so this is the only picture I could find of mine. You can't see the PVA effect too well in it. I do remember doing thin layers of PVA instead of one large layer so that it would dry clearer. Although I've never used it, I've seen some people paint the bottom of their body of water and put a sheet of acetate over the top to give it the look of water.