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CliffordHolm's Achievements


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  1. I just had great success at removing the tackiness! I used Minwax, waterbased, Polycrylic protective finish, Clear Matte. My piece was very tacky. About as worse as I'd felt it. I was even leaving finger print indentions in the paint. Now its good to go. Thank you to whoever started this thread because it inspired me to think the tacky problem was curable and thus my experiment that turned out to be successful.
  2. My base coat was tacky. Avoid: Model Master custom spray enamel. Those are actually a higher end, made for models spray paint, so I'm surprised they didn't work with Bones. Solution: I sprayed Armory Clear Matte Sealer all over the minis and now they are not tacky.
  3. Thank you all for the advice. What I did was experiment on 2 minis. First I'll report the failure. I used Minwax fast-drying polyurethane clear gloss and that too became tacky. It was not a shinny tacky. It was out in the sun all day and I waited over night, so I'm sure the tackiness was from a chemical reaction and not a drying time thing. Second the success. I used Armory Clear Matte Sealer and that did the trick. I did have to spray it for 2 coats and any spot that was missed the first time was still tacky. i"m talking about any little knock and cranny. I have now, just seconds ago, sprayed the successful Armory clear matte sealer over all the minis including the failure. I'll check on them this afternoon.
  4. I've sprayed a basecoat onto some bones miniatures and they are tacky to the touch and they've been drying for a couple weeks now. What can I do now to salvage the minis? Can I spray them with something else putting a new layer on? I'm thinking about a spray varnish or matte coating, the type of thing I'd normally put on as the last step to protect my paint job. I used "Model Master Custom spray Enamel" which is a nicer quality spray paint for models but it didn't work out today. In fact I used 3 different colors on different bones models so its not that I had a bad can, the whole line seems to not work with Bones. Any suggestions would be most appreciated Thank you, Cliff .
  5. Thank you everyone. And I know of Army Painter's dip but this is the first I've heard of using woodworking products such as Miniwax Polyshades Tudor or other tinted polyurethane to have the same effect. And I'm an 'above average' woodworker so its just really neat that I learned something today.
  6. I've recently acquired a horde of minis from the 1970's. I've striped the paint off and was wondering if there was a method or product to use to stain the miniatures instead of repainting them. My reasons for not wanting to paint them are I really want to showcase them as a historical item, not display my painting skill. Also some of the sculpting is poor compared to what you can get today, so I'm almost thinking that some not worth the time investment of painting them. Those are the ones I'm wanting to stain. and the reason why I don't want to leave them as is because I don't want them to oxidize (rust). Any suggestion or advice would be most appreciated. Cliff
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