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466 NPC

About Demihuman

  • Rank
    Rabble Rouser
  • Birthday 07/07/1976

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  • Gender
  • Location
    SF Bay Area, Hit Me Up! I can DM! :)
  • Interests
    Long walks on the beach.
  1. Hi Everyone! Hey, I am looking for pictures of a lava themed Nethyrmaul that I thought was in the forums a few years ago. As I recall they had painted the dragon to look like it was also made out of lava. It was many brain cells ago. If any one can point me at that I would be graetful. Attached are some of the usual suspects just for fun :) Thanks!
  2. Ooh I got these too. I need to seriously contemplate them before I even get near them with the glue though. Some of the nicest metal mini (besides Reaper, of course) I have ever seen. and what a deal huh?
  3. Awesome! Great motivation to push it to the limit! Can't wait to not do resin water next year. :)
  4. Liquid frisket is hard to work with. To do a square mask it with it it would be easier to just paint it freehand. A flat #2 white nylon brush is a great way to do this or checkers or whatever. Or try the masking tape again with an airbrush or rattle can just make sure not to go too heavy or the paint will run under your tape again.
  5. Would "from beyond" include elementals? Like a fire giant princess, say? I could get behind that.
  6. I think a different type of resin would work fine. I have not done any research to figure out which one though. Maybe a polyester resin? The lexel stuff is just for sculpting the waves on top, it's too gooey to pour.
  7. That's a fantastic point; never tackle giant female pirates, they will kill you. Or at best offer you up for ransom. Imagine explaining that to the SO... " yeah, Hi, honey it's me... no, no, I am not doing so great... well I got kidnapped... yeah that's right... well I was pretty excited about the new kick-starter and, well, I tackled one of those giant pirates... yes the female giant pirates... oh come on, we have that much in our checking account!" FWIW I don't usually paint units of Reaper minis.
  8. I think limiting it to the figures in the Bones line is fine, but limiting it to only plastic figures is pretty limiting. Also I want to push again for units as I have the Vale Archers and they are amazing!
  9. I vote for "Year of the Unit", Or "'Party' likes it 2016". So 3 or more models painted in unifying manner or theme. So you could have a unit of Ork archers or a dungeon delving adventure party. You could have a diorama category too. I guess there would be nothing to stop people throwing a group of random "adventurers" together, but that's where the judging would come in, right?
  10. Thanks everyone! So the water was Easy Cast Casting Craft Epoxy, but that was probably teh wrong product to use because it required multiple layers and up close you can see a line betwen the layers. especially on the top layer. I made a plexiglas mold and used carwax as a release agent. This mostly worked great but I think could use some perfecting, namely MORE RELEASE AGENT! I tinted it with tiny drops of Golden Acrylic transparent turquoise (Pthalo) ink. I think using a transparent ink was key. The resin is poured in layers that need to be less than 6 ounces at a time, and you need like a 1/4 drop of ink for each layer. It's tough to gauge because you cant really see the ink until the resin is mixed with the hardener. I learned that you can tint the resin first, then mix in the hardener. That is smart way to do it because the reaction between hardener and epoxy, i think, can do weird things to the ink. In one pour I had to pick out hard little bits of ink. I think the reaction kicked the ink off. The other trick, that I learned from Kretcher, is to paint the sea floor as if it were under water to start. I wish I had a picture. I used my airbrush to shade parts of my sea floor with the same ink i used to tint the water.. Darker parts representing 'deeper' parts of the 'ocean'. I think doing that really helps to sell the sea look. The last layer of epoxy did not cure well, I thought I might be able to get a better cure by hitting it with my heat gun. The heat gun turned the epoxy to a very moldable goop and I was able to soften up some of my mistakes and add some pretty flat ripples to the top. I think a better thing to do would have been to monitor the epoxy as it cured and waited for it got gooey thick then come in and add waves. The heat gun only worked on the poorly cured area. So I could have used molding paste for the waves but it would have taken like two weeks to get clear and I only had a few hours so I found this product: http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/ And it is awesome. It's just like silicon caulk - very messy and gooey, but it's MUCH more clear, dries gloss and is paintable in about half an hour. I think for anyone doing a dynamic water scene this is the product to get. It's also pretty cheap. The last step was to add a little white to the crests of some of my waves and that was it!
  11. Here is my take on Jason Weibe's 02911: Colossal Skeleton "...A black flag glimpsed briefly over the horizon, drunken accounts of a sea giant, ravings about the spirits of dead sailors painted across the night sky. Hushed, pleading whispers begging to forget the horror of the Pharaoh's own body guard from beyond the grave..." The Isle of the Colossus: WIP is here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/57198-demihumans-isle-of-the-colossus-wip-02911-colossal-skeleton/ Happy New Year!
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