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Gargs

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Everything posted by Gargs

  1. Oh I didn't mean to imply that somebody would criticize my minis. In fact, I've always seen just the opposite, both here and on other forums. I just meant intimidating because you see so many amazing minis and then you look at your own and wonder when you'll get even remotely decent. Though as Jokemeister says, getting older has helped me not worry as much.
  2. Khanjira is on my "To Acquire and Paint" list, so I will be following this with great interest.
  3. Excellent find! Particularly useful for me since I finally got motivated to restart painting due to Warmachine, so now I can see what colors I already have. :)
  4. As others have said it really is in the eye of the beholder. For me, I just look to "Does it look ok from a couple of feet away?" Of course, since I am a complete newbie painter, my best possible quality is probably at a level that a lot of people here would need to paint with their eyes closed in order to "match". I would help that in a couple of years, my idea of "tabletop" is of a better quality than what my current idea of tabletop is. This is the good and bad of seeing other people's WIP's and Show Off's. On the one hand, they are inspirational. On the other, they can be intimidating. :)
  5. Aye, as a fellow newbie, I can tell you that patience is, by far, the most difficult and frustrating part of painting. Not only do we need to be patient in terms of layers, coats, speed, etc., but we also need to be patient in terms of results. It is pretty rare for a new painter to hit a home run out of the box. I'm willing to bet most of the best painters even on here have had their share of bad results over the years (particularly when they first started out). It is pretty rare to encounter somebody so naturally talented that they just pick it up and immediately get awesome results. If I had to guess, and I am no expert, so listen to the others first, there is probably a good chance that you are simply getting too much material on the mini (i.e. your glaze/layers are too thick). I do know that getting the paint to the proper thickness is one of the most important elements in a good mini, but it also takes time to accomplish. And then you run into the issue that each brand of paint has their own natural thickness and thus, requires different amounts of thinning.
  6. Aye, will be looking into doing some of those very type of figs. At the very least, I need some experience with bonesium. No doubt I will have a wip thread up here soonow enough. Again, thanks for the tips, everyone here makes things so much easier for us newbies. :)
  7. A little more experience is always a plus, but Kaladrax is overall not very scary. Just very, very big. His constituent bits are pretty simple and tame once broken down into small jobs and his fit is overall very good so not many surprises there. Part of the goal of these 7-day challenges is to show that the big models aren't as terrifying as they first appear. When you feel ready for it, you can definitely tackle Kaladrax. I can understand that mentality, I had the same feeling before I painted him myself. :) However, the problem with waiting to paint a figure because you feel you aren't good enough is that it can turn into never painting it, because you never feel like you're good enough! Which is why the speed paint challenge was so good for me, there wasn't any time to focus on worrying. Kaladrax himself really doesn't take anything in the way of fancy brushwork to look good, mine is 90% drybrushed, and for the most part very messily. The base looks good drybrushed as well; again, mine is also probably about 95% drybrushed, just layered with lots of different colors, then smoothed out with a wash. If you stop thinking of him as one hugantic mini, and instead look at him as a collection of parts, he gets a whole lot less scary and more manageable. You have more skill than you know! I believe in you!! Huzzah! --OneBoot :D Excellent advice from both of you, as always. I actually do agree that in many respects he is much more doable than most of probably realize (especially if we don't try to speed paint him). So I do intend to start him sooner rather than later, its more that I have never really gotten fully started in painting at all yet (life got in the way) but I am now in a position to really spend some time on learning some technique and then being able to at least get table top quality which is my goal anyway. Additionally I do have some added motivation in that my very long-running RPG campaign is finally nearing its end (after about 7 years I think) and Kally will make a beautiful end boss for a recurring villain that has been plaguing the party for a long, long time. So there is that. :)
  8. Yikes, that's a lot of painting in 7 days, though the results were amazing. I wouldn't be able to achieve that kind of success with 3 months and proper brushes. :) Though ironically, I did stumble across this thread by virtue of the fact that my Kally has been staring at me from his box, begging to get out for some time and I actually want to try to get him painted up. Right now its more about trying to achieve some actual skill before I tackle such a big (read expensive) mini first though.
  9. I'm super late to the party of course, but just wanted to say extremely well-done One Boot. Unfortunately I only just recently got back online and so missed all the fun while it was happening, but it is truly an incredible feat. Also, thanks for being so detailed in your paint choices. For those of us who are still painting noobs, the notes are extremely helpful. Congrats!
  10. So with a glaze, do you try to apply it evenly by only having a little bit of paint on the brush? Just trying to picture how to keep it from pooling. Obviously you need to be worried about how much paint is on the brush even on a wash (which I've learned the hard way ;P) but just trying to visualize how to apply it differently. @redambrosia: Aye, that would likely work as well. Its just more a matter of I know I'll be buying from Reaper soon enough, and I'm enough of a penny pincher that I hate paying for shipping when there's a way to avoid it. :p Using what I have currently simply helps to get me painting again since there's no substitute for actual practice, and I can always make excuses why not to paint if I really wanted to.
  11. Thanks, this really makes sense! Awesome link! I hear you about the carrot, I was a bit worried about that myself, but at least I can say . . . "Science!" I don't own very many of the HD line paint so I can only look at the color swatches on the website. I would think you could make those work, they do look very orange though. I would add some brown in either to the paint directly or as a glaze all over much like dsmiles said. However if you want to keep it a bright orange red which those colors look to suit very well. I would go just a bit darker with your shadow color and work all your colors until you are happy with the contrast. Then take your Rusty Red and use it as a glaze all over the hair area, bringing the overall tone back to a red rather than orange. I find the HD line to have a bit denser pigment so you may have issues with it thining to a glaze if you have some brush on sealer I would add it to the paint when thinning it so it retains more of its elasticity and doesn't become to chalky. Does that make sense? @LastKnight thank you for referencing the Red Hair Triad tutorial. Its always fun to see someone mention it maybe I should do some more tutorials. I think this makes sense (he says knowing he's still a complete newb :p) Fortunately I do have a few browns from the LPKs. I realize that the easiest thing to do to at least get a passable color would be to simply by the red hair triad, but I am trying to use what I have for now for a variety of reasons. With a glaze, as I understand it, its consistency is even thinner than a wash? Is that right? Perhaps a bit easier would be to simply try mixing in some brown to the regular color. Would you go with a darker brown or a lighter? My gut tells me (particularly for the shade) to go with something along the lines of the Intense Brown. Not as blackish as the Walnut, but certainly a solid brown. There are also the leather colors in the LPK5 which might be a little less intense than the Intense Brown (pun not actually intended :P) For thinning, will the sealer cause any problems with trying to correct mistakes? I ask because I know I'll make mistakes simply by virtue of the fact that I've really only worked on 4 minis previously. Would using thinning medium work? I can use either, so not sure which is better. @redambrosia: Awesome idea, I will definitely add metallic copper to my "to buy" list. Probably won't use it on Mr. Dain simply because I am waiting to place an order at Reaper until I've built up enough funds to make a nice big purchase at once, but that is an excellent idea. To everyone: Thanks again for the tips, I really appreciate it. I realize I could have always just experimented for science! but its definitely a nice feeling to at least have a general idea as to what to go with. And if you have any more, keep 'em coming!
  12. I had asked this question in the LPK5 WIP thread but hadn't heard a response so thought I would toss it out here in hopes of hearing what people had to say. My apologies if the double post is taboo, Anyhoo, the instructions in LPK5 don't mention how to do the hair (likely because it is covered in an earlier LPK -- which unfortunately I only have LPK1). So, for my dwarf, I am considering making him a red head, but have a very limited paint collection. I have LPK1 and 5 (neither of which are any help in the red head department). I also have the first set of the MSP HD colors (1-18 I believe). So my question is whether or not using Burning Orange as the base color with Rusty Red as the shadow and Fireball Orange as the highlight would work? I'm not familiar with how the HD colors work and I know that they are not true triads like in the regular MSP line. Will this come off as too orange? Not shade well? Any other problems? As always, thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
  13. I only have two words to describe this: bad arse. :D Edit to fix autocorrect. :p
  14. As a fellow newbie painter, I'll echo the same sentiments -- though I'll confess to not being comfortable with larger brushes yet. That said, while I'm not comfortable with larger brushes (mainly because I can't ever seem to find a good one available when I also have the cash) I can certainly understand the argument for the larger brush as I spend a lot of time going back to the paint. By far, the most important advice I can give is to simply keep at it and not get discouraged so long as you are having fun. It will be almost impossible for you to come out with an awesome looking mini your first go (keep in mind that awesome is a relative term). Like all skills, painting takes practice. As for actual techniques, I'll leave that to the experienced painters. :p
  15. Well, after an overly long hiatus due to assorted reasons that are not important here, I am finally back to painting. Unfortunately, I am still pretty limited in my selection of paints/minis. I have started in on LTPK5 (and really my only other completed minis are LTPK1) and I have a quick question: Sadly, none of the other LTPKs were available when I got LTPK5 so all I have to draw from is LTPK1. I've managed through the skin (not well, but managed), but my question is with regard to the hair. The instructions don't really give any information on how to do the hair (presumably because they were in an earlier kit). So, my question is what colors to use for the hair? At my disposal are the contents of LTPK1 and 5, as well as the first set of the HD colors (1-18 I believe). For our good Dwarven Friend, I was thinking perhaps using Rusty Red, Burning Orange, Fireball Orange with Burning being the main color and Rusty the shadow and Fireball the highlight. Will this work? Am I missing something? Sorry not at all familiar yet (obviously) with how the colors will play out but it seems as though that should work as a pseudo-triad. For Razia, I'll be honest, I'm thinking of just mimicking the rat from LTPK1 as I am really not sure how to get any other colors (unless I duplicate Dain's color scheme). I think the yellows in the HD kit will be too bright to make for a good blonde hair. On a side note: I'm really impressed at everyone's lining skills in this thread. Not surprisingly, mine suck at the moment, but I'll keep working at it!
  16. Agree with the above posters. Great mini. Makes me jealous since I'm not half as good yet. :p
  17. Not sure quite how often they restock per se, but I can say that I've been watching #4 off and on since December (money's been tight) and I've seen it go out of stock, come in stock, and go back out of stock. So, at least with respect to #4, it seems to get restocked fairly quickly.
  18. Just so I am clear, did you basically just lay down a base coat and then cover that with the tech paint? No highlighting, drybrushing, etc. for the skin? Just asking because that looks really cool and if its that easy to do (realizing of course you still have the non-skin parts to do) then I am even more impressed and eager to try it out.
  19. Personally, and this is coming from a complete noob so take it with a grain of salt, I'd fill it for no other reason than to simply get some practice with filling and/or greenstuff/putty/whatever. While its debatable whether or not this particular mini needs to be filled based on what you intend to use it for, there will almost certainly come a time when you have a mini that simply needs to be filled. /shrug just my two cents.
  20. And here I am currently stuck with 1 and 5. :p In all seriousness though I had asked the same question about skipping #2 earlier and everyone said to go to 4. I may still try to pick up #4 before tackling #5, but not sure it will make a huge difference anyway.
  21. Heh, the old "We can do this the hard way, or the easy way." :)
  22. Let me tell you from experience . . . yes the Anhurian is a beast for a first timer. :p Mine turned out with super bug eyes, and the eyes on this fellow do seem particularly obscured by the helm. As for drybrushing, I think its a matter of just practice and patience. I'm certainly not an expert, or even one to give advice. All I know is that on a couple of figures I recently worked on, I was having similar experience as you, seemed like either too much or too little paint, but the last one out, I was starting to think there was no paint left on the brush and it wasn't doing anything, and then it just suddenly clicked. The paint started showing up, etc. Think its just a matter of sticking with it perhaps? A quick once over won't get it done, but sticking with it might? If that makes any sense. Bottom line though, I think they look good, especially the rat and the werewolf. Pretty much nobody starts out awesome. And if they do, odds are they were already an artist and simply transitioned to minis. Keep at it and continue to improve. Looking forward to watching your progress!
  23. Mixing paints in and of itself is not a terrible problem for me. Though I would obviously want more than just the 5 basic colors for instance. Naturally it will be nice to be able to simply use a bottle without mixing, but I also like the idea of doing some mixing if for no other reason than to get a handle for color theory in practice and how to generate different shades that might come to mind (I figure sometimes I'll want to adjust a shade of blue for example because the unmixed colors just don't quite work). So it sounds as though you might be suggesting getting the HD kits (after the LTPKs -- of which I have 1 and 5 atm) then adding in a few individual bottles of the Master Series for those triads I'll either use a lot or just can't replicate?
  24. This might be more of a YMMV type question, but for the newbie painter (like myself) who is on a limited budget and few paints, would you recommend looking at the HD paints first, or filling out some of the triads after the LTPKs have been purchased? On the one hand, I really like the concept of the triads as it makes it so much easier for a newbie like myself. On the other hand, going with triads makes it a lot more expensive to get a wider range of colors, and that wide range of colors in the HD kits is pretty attractive. I realize too that a lot depends on what I'll be painting, but frankly, I imagine a relatively wide range of Bones figures will be my main focus. Primarily I am painting for tabletop figs to use when I GM (which is what I normally do) but will be looking at plenty of humanoids to add to that and not just monsters. Ideally of course, I'd get the HD kits and a large selection of triads, and that will likely happen eventually, but sadly the funds are a tad tight at the moment.
  25. Dang, go to Chicago for a few days and totally miss out on a ton of updates. :p Actually, I'm jealous at everyone who has time to paint right now as the holidays, work, etc. have totally eaten into all my spare time. BTW, I realize its too late for Mr. Mutant, but with respect to rust, I believe GW has a new line of paints out that they call "techniques" that are designed to produce desired effects (like "fresh" blood, oxidation, and among others, rust). Basically, you slap the paint on and it is supposed to dry to the desired effect. Have not tried them obviously, but have heard good things about them at the FLGS. The pots are a little more expensive than normal, but in general, should last.
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