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Dr_Automaton

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Everything posted by Dr_Automaton

  1. A trick I picked up from @Wren (IIRC) is that Brush-on Sealer can be used to smooth over minor blemishes and rough spots on a mini before painting. It also works as a gap filler, as long as the gap isn't too big. I've used it on some Bones figures to good effect.
  2. Awww, he looks so sad. Like, when he's not busy being a merciless killing machine, he's secretly looking after a little, mewing kitten that adopted him one rainy day. . . . Great paint job and basing!
  3. Hobgobageddon II (The Hobgobageddoning!): Female Hobgoblin Warrior & Male Hobgoblin Archer: Cuz the Legion is an equal opportunity employer (and multiple sculpts make for a more interesting tabletop). Possibly give the archer a crossbow for extra diversity. Hobgoblin Warmage (previously requested in this thread) Hobgoblin Khan/Warlord: An even bigger bad than the Hobgoblin Leader.
  4. I haven't tried it, but I'm not sure how well it would work using the current gloss sealer formula. To achieve any definition, the mix needs to pool in various places. On raised or flat surfaces, it's a pretty weak color shift. For drybrushing, I think the results would be better using a light shade of opaque paint.
  5. Bah! Rules are for suckers. #Calvinball Have fun storming the castle!
  6. I've seen some people apply washes to good effect using Tamiya clear colors. I'm currently painting some of the clear models from the Bones III kickstarter and have had good results mixing ink or paint with gloss sealer, applying it straight to an unpainted model. You can see some results here and here.
  7. Hot dang! Now that's how you make a forum entrance! Great contrast and color choice, and the OSL's darn pretty, too! Even if you don't want to take credit for the palette, the execution is great.
  8. Which is also the onomatopoeia for the sound I make every time I see it. *GUG!* I like the green on the cultists. My first thought when I saw the models was, "oh, well I guess I should paint those robes red or purple." Thanks to the green, I'm suddenly getting a dirty, Hastur Yellow vibe. I might have to get that Mythos expansion after all. . . .
  9. I cut back on the ink for the cleric and am happy with the result. I also first drybrushed him with Polished Silver. the results are barely visible under the ink wash and just doesn't seem to add anything to the effect. I don't think I'll bother in the future. The mix I used for the wash/stain this time around was: 5 drops RMS Gloss Sealer 1 2/3 drops RMS Wash Medium 1/3 drop Liquitex Phthalo Blue Because I'm a fan of replicable processes, I approached thinning the ink by first mixing one drop of Phthalo Blue with two drops of Wash Medium. I then drew some of it into a cheap, disposable eye dropper I found in a hobby shop years ago and added one drop to a five:one mix of Gloss Sealer and Wash Medium. I'm sure that I was overthinking this. . . . The resulting seven drops of wash was just enough to coat the figure. I was a bit worried when I started applying it, but fortunately, it all worked out. The viscosity of the mixture seemed just right for what I wanted. The cleric has a more ghostly quality over his nigh-invisible wizard buddy, which works for me. I'll probably stick with some version of this formula for my other transparent figures.
  10. Paint for the Paint God! Brushes for the Brush Throne! Looks good. I like the color choice (and may need to buy a few of these guys so I have an excuse to steal it).
  11. As an alternative to licking, I use a tip that I think I picked up from an old issue of White Dwarf: Fold your finger inward to create a crease in the palm of your hand. You can then run your brush through the crease, aligning the hairs without getting the brush anywhere near your mouth. As for lint-free drying methods, coffee filters have never steered me wrong. Cheap and easily available.
  12. Those are some wonderfully vivid greens. If that's what the Brilliant Greens triad looks like, I might need to pick it up next order.
  13. I'm down for option 3. I like the idea of having a nice, wide selection of clear minis, but there are a large number of Bones figures where just can't think of a personal use for a transparent variant. I'm not interested in having the entire Bones catalog produced exclusively in a clear medium due to a) the smell (they're pretty, but stinky) and b) it would require me to mask the entire model in one or more solid coats of black paint when painting for opacity. If you've ever just applied paint as normal to a transparent Bones figure and then held it up to the light, you've probably seen a mess of brush strokes and pooling, thanks to the properties of the individual paints used. There could also be the issue of c) making a figure transparent may limit the other additives that Reaper's been playing with to adjust rigidity and other properties of the bonesium on a per model basis.
  14. My first transparent mini: I wanted to try painting one of the new invisible heroes from Bones III the other day. This is super simple paint job where I first painted the base, then masked it with a solid coat of Brown Liner for opacity. After that, I quickly painted the wizard with a single coat of a mixture of: 3 drops RMS Gloss Sealer 2 drops RMS Flow Improver 1 drop RMS Wash Medium 1 drop Liquitex Phthalo Blue After waiting a day (I was worried the ink might leach out of the sealer or something if I tried to work with it too soon), I painted the exterior of the base with Rainy Gray, followed by a coat of Brown Liner magic wash. To finish, I sealed the entire figure with a coat of Gloss Sealer, followed by a second coat of Gloss on the wizard and a coat of Brush-on Sealer on the base. The result was a very blue, almost candy-like mini. I'm happy with the result, but I'm thinking of pushing back the ink next time by at least half to get a lighter tint. The wash went on pretty well, but I might also try increasing the viscosity just a bit by upping the ratio of Gloss Sealer. Overall, a fun and easy paint job.
  15. Although none of the new ones are from the RPG line, AFAIK. I'm pretty sure that the new bases are beveled similar to those from Games Workshop and other manufacturers.
  16. I can see where that would be a problem. Would giving them a light wash to aid the photography and including a "model supplied unpainted" note in the online store work? I know I find the painted variant pics on the regular Bones pretty useful.
  17. Assuming that you're talking about the transparent models, I'm inclined to agree. I think @Reaperbryan mentioned that Reaper has lightened some of the previous models, but "going clear" (begone, Thetans!) would both make the models easier to shade and make them more versatile, allowing us to tint them to be any color we like.
  18. Moar transparent minis! The set from Bones III turned out great. The clear, non-tinted material is the best yet, since we can stain them however we want. Here are some good contenders, in my opinion (a couple having been previously mentioned in this thread): 77222: Aaron the Conjuror 77040: Satheras, Male Warlock 77069: Autumn Bronzeleaf 77441: Ostarzha, Elf Cleric [Bones III 155] 77209: Arran Rabin 77469: Brand Oathblood, Barbarian [Bones III 211] 77418: Xiao Liu, Female Monk [Bones III 124] 77421: Jade Tiger, Monk [Bones III 127] 77072: Bailey Silverbell 77074: Dain Deepaxe 77075: Khael Stonekindle, Dwarf Wizard 77479 Klaus Copperthumb, Dwarf Thief [Bones III 241] 77031: Cassie, Gnome Wizard 77415: Corim the Kestrel, Gnome Sorcerer [Bones III 121] 77165: Hellakin Goregutter, Halfling Rogue 77218: Woody Stumpwimple, Halfling Ranger An evil assassin, maybe 77093: Drago Voss, Male Assassin One or more of the new Cultists [Bones III 337-341] 77280: Lich 77352: Demi-Lich 77265: Drys, Dryad 03653: Barrow Warden Lord [I don't think this is currently available in Bones, but it's cool] 80004: Sascha Dubois 80007: The Black Mist 80030: Sam Ayers [maybe, but that flashlight seems like it could be problematic] 80032: Ninja 80037: Telephone Box [Surely, someone could find a use for an invisible telephone box…] Some ideas for transparent models requiring new sculpts: A not-Flameskull A Goblin backstabber. Also, maybe a Goblin sniper A skulking Bathalian (not so much wizardly, as predatory) Not-Elemental Myrmidons -- Humanoid elementals bound in magical, fantasy-looking plate armor, fitting on 1" bases. The transparent, non-tinted Bonesium would allow the plates to be painted with opaque metallics and the elemental parts stained with the appropriate colors. A set of four, one for each classic element. A set of clear Wall of Force/Prismatic Wall effects An invisible, ghost Sophie???
  19. You can do it, OneBoot! They're already looking good! To time capsule this thread for future forum searches, here are the names of the new Bones III minis (assuming Reaper doesn't change anything): (242) (Dwarf Ranger) = 77480 Durok, Dwarf Ranger (154) (Lady Blademaster) = 77440 Masumi, Demon Hunter (101) (Elf Archer) = 77320 Galadanoth, Elf Sniper
  20. After the first CAV KS, it took something like four to six months for the new paints to make it to the online store, IIRC. I don't remember the exact length of time, just that I was surprised by how long it took to add them to the catalog.
  21. I have a couple of Reaper nylon brushes and they seem fine to me. If you're still learning the ropes, my suggestion would be to start with synthetics and then move on to sable when you find you outgrow them. Personally, I'm happy with taklon brushes and have found the round brushes from Heritage line from Princeton Art and Brush Co. (the 4050R's) to be great for minis. They are durable, take paint well, and hold their point like no other brush I've encountered. Dick Blick Art Materials sells them online for around four dollars a brush. At that price, I think they're one of the better choices at start.
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