Jump to content

E-Arkham

Members
  • Posts

    83
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by E-Arkham

  1. Need an ID on this Reaper figure. Hopefully this is the right category for this sort of thing. I searched the Reaper site, as well as the older catalogs I had, and even eBay. Solid base (hidden under texture) which had the Reaper stamp on the bottom backside.

     

    The one who brings me the name shall gain an entirely imaginary prize of the highest calibre!

     

    Reaper_NunID.jpg

     

    Excuse the messiness; it's obviously a work-in-progress with a good way to go. :)

     

    Thanks,

    -Kep

  2. Been swinging back into a Reaper mode lately, as well as a NMM mode. Seems like I alternate between metallics and NMM, and each time I bounce back to the other, I improve my technique by teeny, weeny, tiny bit.

     

    Anyway, first there's Eredain, Wizard whom I painted up like a Red Wizard of Thay (from D&D: Forgotten Realms).

     

    Reaper_Eredain.jpg

     

    CMON votin' goodness can be done right here.

     

    Then there's Toshiro, Male Ronin, whom I went a little crazy on. I'm very happy with the red and the NMM. I also was originally planning to have Enma Ai from Jigoku Shoujo as the girl staring into the raging sea, but those sorts of details at this scale would be silly (she's just under 5mm head to toe).

     

    Reaper_Toshiro.jpg

     

    Voting happiness for Tanshiro can can be found here.

     

    Thanks! :D

     

    Kep

    • Like 1
  3. Manufacturing in China doesn't indicate the relative size of the company; it just means it was cheaper to produce and import a particular product from China than it was to do in the US.

     

    Dwarven Forge is, no matter how you slice it, an elite product within a niche market. You generally don't move large numbers of units in that tiny of a market, but instead rely on a core of repeat customers. It makes perfect sense that they'd choose to maximize profit of existing sales over increasing sales (which would require faster production, something they appear to be rather slow at).

     

    Of course, this is all armchair guesswork, really, since none of us know DF sales/profit numbers... but this is what I'd guess their rationale is. :)

     

    On topic, yeah, I'm seriously rethinking my decision to attend GD Chicago this year just so I can afford a couple of these new sets. :P

     

    Kep

  4. Oh! Holy cow! I thought you were talking about a new campaign or Live Greyhawk scenario! War of the Dragon Queen is a new D&D minis expansion! I just found out. :D

     

    Yes, I will be on that like "white on rice" as they say. <g>

     

    Kep

  5. Thanks again. :)

     

    Nope, not Dragon Queen. We have a long running customized campaign set in Faerun that's fairly intricate and character-driven, so we probably won't adapt any new events or campaigns. We have way too many options as it is. :D

     

    Kep

  6. I'm using one for a Tomb Kings army and had to get him onto a 50mm base (fun fun fun).

     

    I'm planning to put one on a 3" base (huge size in D&D terms) so it should be about an extra inch to work with... How far apart are the legs unconverted?

     

    Kep

  7. Semi-related tip: if you get superglue on your fingers, dip them into water. This will set the superglue immediately, before capillary action spreads it throughout your fingerprints and it soaks too far into your skin. Then you can take fine sandpaper and gently sand it off so you don't get that annoying "dry finger" feeling. Doesn't hurt at all, and a lot easier to remove.

     

    I have a couple hundred of those M.U.S.C.L.E things up in the attic. Are they actually worth anything? Would have thought they'd be too soft and flexible to paint.

     

    Kep

  8. I have a bag full of cheap sanding sticks called Sanding Twigs by DuraSand. They're surprisingly fine for the price and flexible enough to wrap around legs, arms, torsos, etc. The pink ones are especially fine.

     

    They're basically thin strips of sandpaper on a foam/cardboard stick. Package claims they're washable, but considering you get 20 a pack for $1 at Hobby Lobby or Michael's, I imagine it's kinda pointless to bother. <g>

     

    Kep

  9. Since we're on the topic of paints and quality, I thought I'd ask this. :)

     

    I have a pot of GW Midnight Blue, which is a very dark blue with a lot of purple in it. Occasionally, the purple in it will leech into upper layers, regardless of drying time, and the highlights will take on a pastel purple hue. As a result I avoid using the paint when I can help it.

     

    I've had my eye on Reaper Ritterlich Blue as a potential substitute (probably have to order it, having a hard time finding shops that carrying it and aren't 110+ miles away).

     

    So first question. How much purple does Ritterlich Blue have in it? Any color bleed problems with it or other Reaper paints?

     

    And second, is it even possible to make a deep, dark blue without a lot of purple in it?

     

    Kep

  10. The two Reaper paints I tried were Violet Red and Fire Orange; Violet Red because it's extremely close to GW's old Fire Dragon Crimson (which is no longer made) and the orange because it's hard to find a good orange.

     

    Both had taped-on labels, and both were awful batches. It was like painting with that plasticote stuff you use to dip tool handles. I'd given up on Reaper at that point.

     

    When I saw this thread, I wrote and very quickly received replacements. The new paints are totally different, extremely smooth, and cover well. I notice a different consistency mixing them than with Vallejo's, but it's not a bad consistency.

     

    I've been using the orange more than the Violet Red (on the blade of chainswords, to highlight reds, etc) and it's a really great paint. I'm definitely of a changed mind regarding the line. And if I can find a retailer that doesn't have only taped-on labels, I'll be trying more.

     

    So... yeah, in short, I'm going to avoid the taped-on labels. ^_^

     

    Kep

  11. Hmm. I just checked the Reaper colours I have, and both have taped on labels. These two really turned me off from the line entirely; the paints are almost plastic-like and have awful coverage. Now it may just be a case of having some from the first bad batches, so I probably should give the line another go.

     

    I didn't realize it was possible to return these. Is it too late to do so now? If not, who would I ask?

     

    If it is too late, I'll just find another bottle of Violet Red -- I was pretty pleased that the colour was so close to the OOP GW Fire Dragon Crimson and would love to find a suitable replacement.

     

    Thankya,

     

    Kep

  12. I've tried vinegar, thinned down and applied with a soft brush. It does make the green stuff smooth, but it also "whitens" it while it dries... and takes longer to dry. No fumes I'm aware of, but honestly I find using a plastic bag for smoothing helps more than anything else.

     

    Kinda curious exactly what the vinegar is actually doing to the green stuff.

     

    Kep

     

    Some people use acetone for an extra final smoothing of their greens though. It's not healthy as it produces toxic gases and strongly adviced against by quite a few professional sculptors. Still some people do it.
  13. Also, white glue is water soluble, that's why he mixed epoxy milliput in it. Yours pitted because the white glue redissolved upon being hit with water.

     

    That's what I thought at first, too, but... it didn't do it with the first layer of paint... nor the wetblended highlights. It only did it once I applied the ink, so it had to be something in the ink.

     

    Of course, not the first "weird paint behaviour" ever reported, and certainly won't be the last. <g>

     

    I think as far as availability and convenience for fixing ptis, the best option might just be layer(s) or gloss before priming.

     

    Kep

  14. I read somewhere that Cyril (quite talented French mini painter and sculptor, used to work for Rackham I think, if you hadn't heard of him) uses a mix of white glue and thinned down milliput to smooth out pits. I tried it with just white glue and it worked fine until I used an ink wash -- then the glue itself became pitted for reasons elusive to me.

     

    I tried varnish once or twice, and it never seems thick enough to fill in the gaps.

     

    Is the Vallejo putty no good to paint over? Why the varnish coat over it? Just for added smoothness?

     

    Kep

×
×
  • Create New...