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Everything posted by E-Arkham

  1. Basically the same as buffing a car -- get a clean rag (preferably one that won't shed fibres), put the oil on the rag or on the wood, and buff away. It's been awhile since I've done this and it's not my preferred technique for wood bases, so perhaps someone else will have a better methods. You could also try EnviroTex Lite Pour-On. Makes a rather hard, glassy surface over the wood. I don't know how it'd look over plain wood as I always stain my bases first, but it's worth a shot. Hm, may not be a good idea over linseed oil either, but I can definitely vouch for its beauty when used over stained wood. You can find it at Micheal's. Kep
  2. My eBay bug has been the TSR ADD series that Citadel made in 1985-1986 before they lost the license. You can see it at the Stuff of Legends site which does a great job of cataloging all the old Citadel stuff. They also document a lot of other companies such as Ral Partha and Grenadier, but don't have quite an extensive array of photos for those. The goal is to have at least one representative of each blister painted and on display bases. :) Kep
  3. Full Metal Alchemist: Awesome anime... the ending strays a bit and breaks some rules, but overall a very good anime and one of my favourites if not my most favourite. Full Metal Panic: Fumuffo: Honestly, I didn't like the first season which was mostly about robots and secret army groups and terrorists and tried to be mostly serious. The second season dubbed "Fumuffo" was much more of a high school anime. Great Teacher Onizuka (or GTO): An amazingly good anime, and the manga is even better. No robots, but it's a series you never want to end. Gunslinger Girl: Actually, this one is pretty damned depressing, but I still enjoyed it immensely. The manga is not so great. Chrno Crusade: I liked it, but not nearly as much as the others I've listed. Okay, so maybe I'm listing it only because Rosetta is hot. And the opening and closing themes are great. Midori No Hibi: Only 13 episodes long, but totally hilarious. Has nothing to do with robots whatsoever, but has this incredibly bizarre and extremely funny premise. Rune Soldier Louie: Definitely not one of the best animes of all time, and it has some slow episodes, but I really enjoyed what I've seen. Great chaotic D&D style fun. Samurai Champloo: By the same guy who did Cowboy Bebop, and though I've seen only four episodes, they rocked in ways I can't describe. If the series maintains this level of quality and enjoyment, it's going to rapidly replace Full Metal Alchemist as my favourite anime. One disclaimer: I watch anime in Japanese with subtitles... I have yet to enjoy an English dubbed one, mostly due to really bad voice actors. Kep
  4. Is there a way to get bits that may not be listed in the catalog? I'm looking for the 01408 Xmas Sophie wings for a conversion, but can't seem to find the piece by itself. Kep
  5. It's in French, but the pictures are universal: CreaFigs steampunk style guns Kep
  6. Ebay has always been a bit random when it comes to selling painted figures. I think the commonly tossed about rule of thumb is "expect your work to sell for 60% of your commission prices" so commission work is always going to be a better choice for a painter. I still like putting up a few figures on eBay anyway. Hoping for the odd "big win" due to a bidding war is part of it, but mostly it's fun and stressfree -- I can paint what I want, when I want it, and not worry about a deadline. And if it sells, great. Plus it's additional exposure for commission work... not that I'll be able to take on any new work for at least a month or two anyway, but that's beside the point. Kep
  7. Here they are. There are a couple of larger bases that I didn't squeeze into the photo which are (oddly enough) 8.5x11". SKUs/product numbers are as follows: Small oval (5"x3.25" across center): SKU 177006, 202B (2/$1) Large oval (7"x5" across center): SKU 179382, 302B, (1/$0.99) Small circle (4"): SKU 179374, 371B (2/$1) Large circle(7") SKU -none listed (has a barcode instead), 800BU Demis Small rectangle w/ beveled corners (3"x5"), SKU none (again, barcode), 200BU Demis Large rectangle w/ beveled corners (5"x7"), barcode again, 300BU Demis Large rectangle (normal corners, 5"x7") SKU 179408, 318B (1/$1) I'll have to look into the oak ones at Home Depot myself. :) Kep
  8. I've been using those from Micheals for quite some time now. I love them. Lately I've been using a drill press to carve out slots for round bases so that I can insert gaming figures. As a result, I've even received an odd commission request -- making a base for ten Elves, but no miniatures. <chortles> The Micheals here also has some smaller ones that are two for a dollar. These are great if you don't really want more than one or two figures on the same base (though in one case, I'm cramming three on). Luckily, the one here also has some larger ones which can easily hold a squad of ten guys. All shapes and sizes. I'm betting once Enchantra's store stocks up, she'll have all types as well. Of course, there's also Hobby Lobby, but frankly I despise the fact that they're closed on Sundays as that's really my only free day to shop for supplies. My only regret with the Micheals bases is that they don't come in nicer types of wood. Still, for the price you can't beat it with a stick. And a little stain and gloss and they're an awesome touch for a miniature. Kep
  9. I think that most companies use fine grade talc, don't they? This is the first time I've ever heard of using vinegar for cleaning anything, actually. <g> Lead rot can be truly ugly when it happens -- if you have old figures, I recommend at least priming them to help prevent it. I've got several unprimed lead figures from the early 80's that have califlower growths on them due to lead rot. Icky, icky, stuff. I'm nowhere near them and just talking about them makes me want to go wash my hands. Kep
  10. My response was snarky. It was late, and I misread your post as being a little condescending. My apologies. :) Away from the slight misunderstanding and back to the subject at hand! Rereading the thread, it seems that humidity is a significant factor in how well a spray performs. In fact, I've considered a test of the various common primers to determine which are more apt to fail at particular humidity levels. Unfortunately, I don't have a humidity probe/barometer to really measure what the current humidity and pressure is during a spraying session. Has anyone else thought to run a test like this? Certainly there are product data sheets available, but I have the suspicion that they don't address the consistency of coverage when spraying miniatures. :) My idea is to take several identical miniatures with good flat areas (such as cloaks or shields), spray each one in the same area with a different spray, and then measure drying time, smoothness, coverage, and "rub test" each (basically rub your thumb on a dry coat for ten seconds and determine how much paint has been removed). After each test, jot down humidity and pressure, strip them with acetone and wash thoroughly, wait until the next day that has varying weather conditions, and try again. I still want to try this little experiment, but due to other work it's not going to be a high priority for me. Personally, I think it'd be the holy grail of miniature priming tests, but I also wonder if the information would be closer to trivia than useful. Kep
  11. Yes, I know that they're the same company. Both bottles state it on the bottom back of the label... Kep
  12. I'm back to using GW Citadel White. For years, I used Decrolon (Sherwin Williams), which didn't clog details like Krylon does and was slightly less sensitive to changes in moisture. Krylon almost always goes on so badly it's like spraying the figure with white sand. Then, out of the blue, the Decrolon started spraying on "dusty" again, leaving a fine grit on primed figures. Humidity, maybe (though I spray in a workshop), or perhaps they changed the formula. Oddly, the last time I bought a batch, the guy at Sherwin Williams mentioned that Decrolon and Krylon were the exact same formula, just different brand names -- and now it's behaving the same? Interesting coincidence. I've also tried the Tamiya Fine Spray. It came out of the bottle somewhat heavily (meaning you have to spray from further away when using it), but it's wonderfully, amazingly smooth. Unfortunately, at $6-$8 for a 3oz can, it's too pricey to use for as many figures as I paint in a week. It also rubs off easier than other brands... but... but the smoothness! Model Master goes on very smooth, but a little thick if you're not careful -- same problem as the Tamiya Fine Spray, but significantly more noticeable. Unfortunately, it's $3-$5 for a 3oz can. However, the great thing about Model Master is that it doesn't matter if it's raining outside or not -- the stuff is highly resistant to humidity. Testors is virtually identical to Model Master. It has the same price, same resistance to humidity, and goes on about as heavy and about as smooth. I can't quite put my finger on why, but I'd say the Testor's is slightly better for miniature priming. I think it comes out of the nozzle a bit more evenly. Most of the top painters on CMON say they use the "three light coats of GW white primer" technique, so after probably six years of avoiding the stuff, I bought a can a few months ago. It's far better than I remembered, and the three light coats works wonders. It's not nearly as sensitive to humidity as Krylon and Decrolon are, but not nearly as resistant as Testor's/Model Master. At $8-$10 for an 11oz can, it's probably one of the better quality-vs-price values, however. So... long story short, I've tried several different brands lately and ended up returning to the GW Citadel White due to both economics and resistance to humidity. Of course, I'll never use their clear matte spray again after it gave several figures a frosted look, but that's a different rant entirely. :) Kep
  13. You know... black doesn't have to be boring. You can lighten the tips of his hair with a brown or red, or add in salt-and-pepper colouring over his sideburns. It doesn't have to be the static black-highlighted-grey unless that's what you like. I find giving some of my characters unusually coloured highlights in the hair actually make them more interesting. Of course, now I'm trying not to let all the females I paint look like Rogue from X-Men, but that's a different problem. :) Kep
  14. Don't neglect the value of the trusty hobby knife, especially for bases that are too large for clippers or too awkward for jeweler's saws. The key is to shave away only small sections at a time -- if you have to force the knife at all, you're cutting too big a section. The other thing to keep in mind is that you don't have to shave away all of the base like this; just enough so that you can go back to using clippers or a saw. Kep
  15. Hee. I recently added this rock tutorial to my site and had plans to go through marble and sandstone textures, but unfortunately haven't had time to complete it due to various workloads lately. Two things in particular I wanted to do were to link to Laszlo's site and offer an alternative technique for doing marble, and then to show how to do a true red/pink sandstone effect (I always like to link to the masters for the original technique; after all it is on the shoulders of others that we become better. Or something like that. Plus there's no reason to repeat a lesson when they've done it exceptionally well to begin with. <g> ) For sandstone, the basic method is to basecoat in a shade similar to GW Snakebite Leather, drybrush up to a bone colour, and then use a brush to stiple parallel bands of alternating red/brown colours for the streaks. Finally, you take a finer brush and add some crooked lines of a deeper brown banding. It's actually not hard... you just have to play around with it to get a good effect. The real trick is properly wrapping and scaling it for the rock surface you're painting. Unless you mean sandstone like you'd see in Egyptian excavations... that's basically the same thing minus the red/brown banding and with slightly more yellow highlighting. Hope that helps, Kep
  16. Wow, very nice. I've been making a couple of tutorials as well, and finding they take up quite a lot of time -- especially when you go into a lot of detail and photograph things every step of the way. I was rather pleased with how they were coming along... Then I find this, and now feel rather shamed at my lame tutorial WIPs. <chortles> I'll just call them "Beginner" tutorials or something now. On the other hand, I'm glad he has the same problem with shakiness while taking pictures in progress that I do. :) Kep
  17. Store credit is an excellent option I had overlooked. Very valid point. I was thinking in terms of cash only, in which case most stores (at least those I have ever questioned) just won't offer because the interest wasn't there. I'd totally jump on store credit, depending on the store's selection of course. Kep
  18. I realize that you asked specifically about the old items being worth putting up, but there are some simple things you can do that will help increase that worth. If you have a trusted friend who has an eBay and PayPal account and a fair amount of feedback, it might be better to sell them through him/her in exchange for a small percentage of the final price (after eBay and PayPal fees). Note the keywords: "trusted friend." Not someone you know only from online. :) The photo is what sells. Make sure your photo is in focus, clear, easy to read and is close enough that users can see lots of detail. Make sure the item is complete and that the title and description accurately mention what the item is. I've bought some things at incredibly cheap prices because the person who put up the auction misspelled the title or had the figure improperly labeled. You said they're still in the box, but if you need to identify anything go to Stuff of Legends. Of the old stuff that really sells very well, dragons of all sorts are hits, especially the old "chicken dragon" from Citadel. Some other things that sell for excellent prices are original Battletech figures (earlier in the year, I sold several *loose, unassembled* ones such as the Warhammer and the Marauder for over $100 each). Citadel figures from the ADD line (circa 1985-1986) sometimes sell very well, also, but this is a bit hit or miss. There are a tremendous number of variations of these figures, so if you happen to have one of the hard to find variations, those will go for lots. Githyanki, trolls, and ogres from this line tend to go for quite a bit regardless ($10-$15 per figure for Githyanki, $25-$50 for trolls and ogres). Dragon Snack has already suggested this, but do as much research on your pieces as you can before deciding if it's worth it. One thing I might disagree is selling it locally -- chances are very good you'll get more for it on eBay than locally. With eBay, you're reaching buyers worldwide so there's a greater chance of getting at least two guys who want it enough to bid against one another. Local stores generally are only interested in reselling it, so won't offer you what they want to sell it for. Of course, you might be able to work out a commission deal with one of the stores and let them sell it for you. Anyway, enough rambling. Hope that helps. Kep PS - If you DO have any of those old Citadel ADD figures, let me know. :)
  19. Try drawing it out with a pencil or Micron pen first, then paint along that. Often, it's easier to wield a pen than it is a brush, and as such, easier to get a straighter line. Also, try resting your hand against the desk and lean the figure on a foam insert for stability. Some people don't like mounting figures on old bottles (with a small dab of hot glue), but I found that doing this helps me keep a figure far more stable. For practice, just pick a figure with a large smooth area like a cloak, and paint lines on it. Don't even worry about painting the rest of it... it's just for practice, and you can strip it or paint over it later. There's no quick and easy way short of having a lot of experience doing it. I'm not sure I'd recommend using tape for anything other than vehicles. I'd think it'd be more trouble than it's worth at this scale. Kep
  20. Heyo, I bought some of the Reaper Heroic armatures since I tend to have problems getting good proportions on sculpts. Before I get too crazy with them, I'd like to know what the intellectual property limits (if any) are for these. The question is basically: If I sculpt over these, can I sell casts of the resulting figures? Obviously, this isn't an issue with the other armatures since they would be completely covered during sculpting. For the sake of argument, if I completely cover the heroic armatures, I would suspect there is no problem with reselling these (since technically no IP would remain in the final cast). But what if I don't cover them completely, leaving some of the metal exposed? An example would be a scantily clad barbarian or swimsuit-chainmail wearer. I'm happy for any answers and thoughts on this, but clearly would prefer an official Reaper person so I don't waste effort sculpting something only to find I can't sell it. :) Thanks, Kep
  21. It comes from two words in old Greek. Opal, meaning "pretty rock" and -escent, meaning "smelly." So in short, it means "smelly but pretty rock." Hope that helps! ... No, seriously... it's very close to the same meaning as iridescent. Think shiny with small flecks of multicolour. Oyster shell, for example, or mother-of-pearl. Kep
  22. Wow, that Ikea/Jarna thing is great, and cheap, too! Sadly, the Ikea nearest me doesn't open until next summer. Many of my painted ones are in a six-shelf display case I built a few years ago. It has plastic rather than glass, but it's fairly nice for a few hours' work. The overflow are all along the top shelf of my work desk. I also have a glass-doored medicine cabinet from either Lowe's or Home Depot that they no longer sell. In this one are mostly my old Citadel series (and only primed, at that). Kep
  23. Two 75w Reveals, both on swing arms. One is more or less directly overhead (slight angle from my left) and the other is 45 degrees from my right (since I'm right-handed). The second is one of those types that has the magnifying glass, but it's not fluorescent. For photography... I think they're 100w Reveals, but I'm not sure. They're each covered by a sheet of wax paper and a paper towel to diffuse, and I'm too lazy to look under them. :) Both of these are at much lower angles (about 22 degrees or thereabouts), coming from the front right and front left to where the miniature would be placed. Kep
  24. It's all about breaking up your routine. People go about thinking "Lighter = white and darker = black," and that's not always the case. Quite often, I use Bleached Bone to blend to a lighter shade rather than white, and Burnt Umber or Vallejo Camo Black (which is actually a deep brown) to blend to shadows. I tend to wet blend all my colours, in fact. Limiting your palette not only unifies the colours on your figure, but it also opens your mind to other ways of achieving what you visualize in your head. It teaches control as well, since you're matching colours by effort rather than squeezing a few drops from a pre-mixed bottle. If you want to get down to it, you can get any colour you want with white, blue, red, yellow, and burnt umber. Kep
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