robinh

also check your power supply to make sure it is putting out the needed amperage. Under powered will light up the screen but not give enough juice to cure the resin. A power surge could have damage the unit.

if you have an airbrush the Stynlyrez from Badger work great on bones and come in many colors. This is what I used on the barge and on Baba Yaga's hut.

Thanks for the birthday wishes ... they are very much appreciated. I apologize for not being on that day but I spent it on the golf course and the dying at home form the heat wave. Drinks were had ... to make the heat tolerable.. (that's my excuse at least)

i always pause, pour more in and resume without issue. just pour gently and it should be fine

no problem with the FEP. It gets cloudy after a number of prints regardless. To test the bump just print something small in the area and see if it works. Don't forget to filter your resin when taking it out or placing it into the tank. I would also wipe off the FEP with a clean micro fiber cloth and then lightly grease it with a Teflon based lubricant. Based on your pictures your FEP is almost perfect compared to mine.

and folks he is HOOKED!

is it done yet? ,,,, ,,,, ,,,, How about now?

now use a sharp scalpel/xacto knife to clean up the last remains of the contact before curing or you will have to sand them down later. You also might want to adjust your contact point from the ball to the cone. Leaves less behind when removed.

don't forget you can merge supports into one pillar with only the small contact arm touching the model. Just remember that 30 degree angle and they will work Also try to keep the last part of the support (the touching part) as short as you can as it is the weakest link in the support structure. have fun

try using medium or light supports on the priest while still keeping the heavier supports on the book stand. If you are still printing as solid mini's there may be a bit of suction on the book stand hence the need for heavier prints. Also when removing the supports give the mini a quick soak 30-40 seconds in hot water (from tap not boiling). This softens the contact point and allows for cleaner removal,

Actually Glitter I would start with smaller single models to get used to how to support them and print them before loading the build plate. The more you have on the build plate the more suction it can create on the FEP and thus cause the print to fail. Also if one of the models in the group ends up not being correctly supported you will end up with cured resin floating around in the tank (and you will not see it) that can then cause a puncture in the FEP or block the build or get fused with another component thus causing a failure. Start small, get used to everything and slowly work your way up to filling the plate. If you have a model you want multiple copies of I would create a single print first and save it under another name after you have added your supports, test print and if good then copy it in Chitubox to fill the build plate. Also when in Chitubox and using the sliders to check for island always, I repeat. ALWAYS make sure the slider is fully at the top after slicing before save the file. Always save the file to your hardisc and then use windows tools to copy it to the memory stick. Never save directly to the memory stick as this is a known issue with chitubox. Sorry for the long rant... but my Canadian ten cents (exchange rate) worth based on my experience so far.

I am trying to learn sculptris which is the freeware version of z-brush so please post all of your tips and techniques as you go. I will be watching this intently.

the leggy one comes across as some kind of dancer to me.... possibly a mushroom court jester!

Love the work as usual! Mind you after seeing the faces on the wall and the new collection of schrooms having an undisturbed and quiet sleep may not be possible.

that is one great dino