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About ioannis

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  1. ioannis

    Help Matching 29830 HD "Ruddy Brown"

    I bought them all... If you blend a red with brown, you can do it. I used cadmium red and burnt umber to achieve the exact same hue. I have not been able to find an exact match in the Reaper lines. I hope they bring it back!
  2. ioannis

    MSP Bones HD paints..

    The 'gold' metallics are some of the best paints I have seen so far - and I have seen them almost all. In my opinion, these Bone 'gold' paints are much better than the MSP ones, although I like those too - even though I no longer have them. I have decided on Vallejo Game Air metallics a year ago as my brand of choice, but these new Bone 'gold' paints are equal if not superior. So far, I rate them as good as the old Citadel metallics (in the later rectangular pots) and the Vallejo Game Air metallics (not the Model Air as these are an early attempt that did not produce convincing colors, in my opinion). The 'iron' metallics are similar to MSP ones I had about a year ago: still, too white-pastel for my purposes. Perhaps more suitable for 'silver' cloth lace rather than white real metal parts. I might be using them wrongly, as I do not apply washes. I need to experiment with these a bit more. Any advice is welcomed! I do recall painting a nice helmet using the MSP 'iron' paints, so there is some hope! All in all, I love the new gold metallics and I am not sure about the 'iron' colors, although I am happy to have them again as I sold all my MSP paints deciding to focus on HD. Clarification: I paint 28mm metal figures, by hand-brush, over a black primer, and I apply at least two hands of each layer.
  3. A brief review and a few test photos posted here: http://leuthenjournal.blogspot.gr/2014/12/reaper-hd-paints.html Please, do visit and leave a comment on the blog or here if you have tried this range of paint - I would be interested to know your experiences! Cheers!
  4. ioannis

    MSP Equivalencies for Artist Colors

    Super...yellow ochre is the one I was mostly interested. And the triad is one of my favourites!
  5. ioannis

    MSP Equivalencies for Artist Colors

    Thanks for sharing this information. Are the 12 pigments available in the MSP or HD lines as individual, unmixed colors? If yes, would it be possible to know which are these straight pigments by bottle name etc?
  6. ioannis

    P3 Paint Color Range

    Check eBay.com...there is bound to be a reseller based in the States!
  7. ioannis

    P3 Paint Color Range

    Indeed, Coat d'Arms and P3 are made by the same manufacturer, who also makes Foundry paints and used to make Citadel paints. But, having had similar colors from this same manufacturer behaving differently, I must say, they do have different formulations for different manufacturers. In fact, I believe, and this is only my own experience, P3 have changed their formulas recently to make paints flow better (to the detriment of coverage), but they do behave now more like MSP paints in terms of control, without losing their plasticity.
  8. ioannis

    P3 Paint Color Range

    I believe both MSP and P3 are based on liquid pigments. The difference in medium is what gives P3 paints their 'plasticity'. On the other hand, MSP's medium gives easier control. I use both ranges and I am equally happy! I have long now sold or tossed all my other brands, and I have used them ALL..!!! On the Privateer website there is a mixing guide that provides the shade-base-highlight combinations you need...It's a good starting point and some combinations will surprise you but they do work. The only point to note is that these combinations are not meant to work as the MSP triads (that is, first you apply shade, then you layer on the base and the highlight). The P3 proposed combinations are for you first to select your base color, then you mix in some (say 50:50 is a good starting point, you can adjust in later experiments based on how much contrast you want) of the shade, and you paint the first layer. The second layer can be the base straight, and the third layer is again a mix of the base plus highlight (I use a 75% base and 25% highlight). Mixing P3 paints is fun, and having them premixed in MSP paints is easy...so, I have the best of both worlds!
  9. ioannis

    Venetian red or Bombardier Red

    That's a good one ShadowRaven...I will make sure to tell my wife!
  10. ioannis

    Venetian red or Bombardier Red

    Glad this topic is receiving such interest... Yes, again, I cannot disagree with Doug, and that is why I mention only 'red' as a red-brown, and not the other red varieties. Please, guys, the emphasis is on 'my' understanding of what this red looked like...I did not proclaim myself the 'pope' of colours, I just said I found something that agrees with 'my' understanding of what I was looking for...I even gave it my own name 'Bombardier Red'. "If I am wrong, then I must be an artist, because art is the science of imperfection".
  11. ioannis

    Venetian red or Bombardier Red

    Pingo, I would not disagree with anything you said...this is why I mention in my blog this is just the representation of my understanding of a proper 18th century red color for military use...not all civilian clothing or paints used on paintings. And of course, I do not say this color is the only one used even for military clothing (officers would certainly use a deeper, more expensive red hue), not even the right one, certainly not The one...just my take on it - and I am happy I found it. That's all... As for Venetian red, you're again not wrong...it was a brick red, but who can define the color of a brick ??? We have all seen them at so many colour variations, not to mention the way their colours deepen or fade by age. Ah, it is all so captivating, so fascinating, so subjective...any other way and it would be so boring!
  12. ioannis

    Venetian red or Bombardier Red

    Sorry, I thought the triad was called Auburn, but apparently not...this is just the name of one of the paints in the triad. There is no secret...I used the Red Hair Triad as the basis: Shadow being solid, the other layers very transparent. I even went deeper with extra shadows. This last part can be variable and it's up to how large the figure is and how deep the recesses are). For example, for very deep cuts, Red Shadow works fine, for others, Mahogany Shadow is better. I used a mix also in between these two! As it happens, the larger the figure the more mixes I do between two adjacent paints and this is done by the eye as I have no way how to better describe it. Anyway, the Red Hair triad is what you need, and just keep your layers very transparent or it will end up looking like a carrot!
  13. My search for a truly authentic 18th century red has ended...see results here! http://leuthenjournal.com/leuthenjournal/Index/Entries/2013/12/3_Bombardier_Red__authentic_18th_century_red.html Using MSP paints of course, the Auburn triad being used as the base. Cheers! Ioannis
  14. Any news on when we can order the kickstarted paints?
  15. Many thanks...you're absolutely right. The only way to get this color is to mix, or buy the bottle (again!) I decided to buy it again. Yes, it is to blueish for flesh base when painting high-end figures. But, the end result is very good for wargaming figures that take only three layers of paint and they are to be viewed from 2-feet distance on the table.