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ioannis

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Posts posted by ioannis

  1. The 'gold' metallics are some of the best paints I have seen so far - and I have seen them almost all. In my opinion, these Bone 'gold' paints are much better than the MSP ones, although I like those too - even though I no longer have them. I have decided on Vallejo Game Air metallics a year ago as my brand of choice, but these new Bone 'gold' paints are equal if not superior. So far, I rate them as good as the old Citadel metallics (in the later rectangular pots) and the Vallejo Game Air metallics (not the Model Air as these are an early attempt that did not produce convincing colors, in my opinion).

     

    The 'iron' metallics are similar to MSP ones I had about a year ago: still, too white-pastel for my purposes. Perhaps more suitable for 'silver' cloth lace rather than white real metal parts. I might be using them wrongly, as I do not apply washes. I need to experiment with these a bit more. Any advice is welcomed! I do recall painting a nice helmet using the MSP 'iron' paints, so there is some hope!

     

    All in all, I love the new gold metallics and I am not sure about the 'iron' colors, although I am happy to have them again as I sold all my MSP paints deciding to focus on HD.

     

    Clarification: I paint 28mm metal figures, by hand-brush, over a black primer, and I apply at least two hands of each layer.

    • Like 2
  2. Indeed, Coat d'Arms and P3 are made by the same manufacturer, who also makes Foundry paints and used to make Citadel paints. But, having had similar colors  from this same manufacturer behaving differently, I must say, they do have different formulations for different manufacturers. In fact, I believe, and this is only my own experience, P3 have changed their formulas recently to make paints flow better (to the detriment of coverage), but they do behave now more like MSP paints in terms of control, without losing their plasticity.

    • Like 1
  3. I believe both MSP and P3 are based on liquid pigments. The difference in medium is what gives P3 paints their 'plasticity'. On the other hand, MSP's medium gives easier control. I use both ranges and I am equally happy! I have long now sold or tossed all my other brands, and I have used them ALL..!!!

     

    On the Privateer website there is a mixing guide that provides the shade-base-highlight combinations you need...It's a good starting point and some combinations will surprise you but they do work. The only point to note is that these combinations are not meant to work as the MSP triads (that is, first you apply shade, then you layer on the base and the highlight). The P3 proposed combinations are for you first to select your base color, then you mix in some (say 50:50 is a good starting point, you can adjust in later experiments based on how much contrast you want) of the shade, and you paint the first layer. The second layer can be the base straight, and the third layer is again a mix of the base plus highlight (I use a 75% base and 25% highlight).

     

    Mixing P3 paints is fun, and having them premixed in MSP paints is easy...so, I have the best of both worlds!

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  4. Glad this topic is receiving such interest...

     

    Yes, again, I cannot disagree with Doug, and that is why I mention only 'red' as a red-brown, and not the other red varieties.

     

    Please, guys, the emphasis is on 'my' understanding of what this red looked like...I did not proclaim myself the 'pope' of colours, I just said I found something that agrees with 'my' understanding of what I was looking for...I even gave it my own name 'Bombardier Red'.

     

    "If I am wrong, then I must be an artist, because art is the science of imperfection".

    • Like 1
  5. Pingo, I would not disagree with anything you said...this is why I mention in my blog this is just the representation of my understanding of a proper 18th century red color for military use...not all civilian clothing or paints used on paintings. And of course, I do not say this color is the only one used even for military clothing (officers would certainly use a deeper, more expensive red hue), not even the right one, certainly not The one...just my take on it - and I am happy I found it. That's all...

     

    As for Venetian red, you're again not wrong...it was a brick red, but who can define the color of a brick ??? We have all seen them at so many colour variations, not to mention the way their colours deepen or fade by age.

     

    Ah, it is all so captivating, so fascinating, so subjective...any other way and it would be so boring!

  6. Sorry, I thought the triad was called Auburn, but apparently not...this is just the name of one of the paints in the triad.

     

    There is no secret...I used the Red Hair Triad as the basis: Shadow being solid, the other layers very transparent. I even went deeper with extra shadows. This last part can be variable and it's up to how large the figure is and how deep the recesses are). For example, for very deep cuts, Red Shadow works fine, for others, Mahogany Shadow is better. I used a mix also in between these two! As it happens, the larger the figure the more mixes I do between two adjacent paints and this is done by the eye as I have no way how to better describe it.

     

    Anyway, the Red Hair triad is what you need, and just keep your layers very transparent or it will end up looking like a carrot!

    • Like 1
  7. Many thanks...you're absolutely right. The only way to get this color is to mix, or buy the bottle (again!) I decided to buy it again. Yes, it is to blueish for flesh base when painting high-end figures. But, the end result is very good for wargaming figures that take only three layers of paint and they are to be viewed from 2-feet distance on the table.

  8. I had this problem of cracking paint when I used to apply the MSP paints too thick...but, never since I realized these paints are to be applied in many thin layers. Since then everything is just fine. Never had any problems with HD, even when applied somewhat thick(er).

     

    I also read (now, where was that?) that Reaper paints will crack if they are applied over other brands...my problem happened over Vallejo polyurethane primer. I don't think this is a valid observation - I mean the tale about overlaying, because I keep using the Vallejo primer with Reaper paints without any problems, and I have just a few paints from other brands that I mix and match with Reaper, again without problems.

     

    You will see also cracking if you just apply a dot of paint on your palette and let it dry...it must have to do with the medium and flow improver they use (my unsubstantiated opinion, of course!)

     

    So, in my opinion, if your paint is cracking then it is too thick (unless you got a bad bottle with a problem in the ingredient composition).

  9. I use series 92 and 93, from size 1 down to size 7/0. They are designed to paint miniatures. They have an excellent point, down to their last single hair, no matter how much I use and abuse them. The head is short and this gives a tremendous amount of control, but unavoidably paint accumulates at the ferrule joint and this tends to eat up the hairs, no matter how good I clean them (not!). So, I go through them on a rapid pace! I will be looking for longer heads from Rosemary series when my current stock is exhausted...I have been using them for some 10 years now; before I was a W&N Series 7 brush fun, but those Rosemary I refer above are virtually identical.

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