Ted Kord

A skin color triad (or really just the first two, tan shadow & tan skin) is a good way to go. Most primary colors you can just add a bit of white to to create a highlight color. My advice would be to then get one of each of the basic rainbow colors (dark red, bright red, yellow, blue, blue-grey, brown, then, a dark grey, white and a couple metallic colors, silver and bronze. That would be a solid 12 colors you can mix and match to create what you need. If you are mixing from the same colors than odds are they won't clash too much with the others you mix together.

Thanks. The shield is so nice that it's a shame that the detail is facing downward. I repositioned one with the end of the shield glued to the back so the detail can be seen from behind. I am a big fan of boiling but these were all done with just crazy glue. The guy on the far right has the end of the shield glued right were the strap meets the arm and his right forearm glued to his bicep and shoulder. The second one from the right has his right fist glued to the belt and his left fist glued to his left shoulder.

Painted these two up tonight. Going to do all 4 from KSII with different skin, hair and positions. Just used glue to reposition the arms.

If you have clear gloss those bottles will pop even more like they were glass. Or in the future a tiny bit of platinum metallic in this the color makes the bottles sparkle like its magic. Bottles are so much fun. I did a pirate army once, pirates have lots of bottles. Nice job on the book. Right now his coat looks like it is all the same type of leather and same thickness (very thick and rigid). I would pick which areas he would want thick and leave as is and then pick the areas he'd want more flexible and highlight those more to make them look thinner and less rigid. Or if he is really fashion forward highlight and shade those areas a darker or redder shade so they are not only thinner but two different shades of leather. He has all these leather piece strategically placed like armor but bottom and part sticking out by the armpits I would imaging would be more flexible for movement sake. The different textures would help sell how neat of a design the coat is.

I hope the FBI is keeping a watchlist on any adults that watch My Little Pony.

I used reaper clear colors yesterday and really liked the results. Is there a mixing chart for them anywhere. I just sort of guessed and mixed green and yellow and got a nice Viper Green type shade. Does Reaper have a guide or tips for using them? And are there just the original 6 colors or have new ones been added?

Green stuffing a bandanna is a good idea.

Had fun with this one but when I realized the face was not going to be do-able just settled for a nice table quality. Maybe I will go back and try to do the face some day. Someone suggested painting a bandanna over where her mouth and nose should be. I might try that instead.

I find this guy similar to Oberyn. http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/elf/sku-down/14046#detail/14046_Ardynn_tl He had a ballet gracefulness to him... until his head got crushed under the Mountain. It will take some modifying to change that sword into a spear but it's do-able. And the spear would be parallel with his arm which was more of Oberyn's fighting style rather than the thrusting position most of the models are in.

By thick I mean that (other than on her skin) the paint is so thick that I can see the individual brush strokes. I was wondering if you were doing this on purpose for style or because you wanted it to read from further away or to draw attention to the face.

My tips for beginners would be; 1. Washes are awesome. If you don't want to spend on a lot of them at least try flesh on skin and brown on everything else. 2. Thin your paints. They will be easier to work with and look better. If they run obviously you went too thin. 3. Don't be afraid to highlight. If you don't know what color to use just use the same color with half to equal parts white. 4. If you are near sighted try painting without your lenses in and holding it closer to your face. 5. Invest in paints and brushes made for miniatures. Yes, some of the best painters use craft paints but some of the best drummers can rock a garbage can. Ask for advice and criticism. This forum treats everyone with kit-gloves. There are fantastic painters on here but most will just say "awesome job" rather than point out that you could be doing something better. There are so many simple tips and tricks for painting minis that you might not just stumble on. You will advance so fast if you make it clear that you want to know what you could be doing different or better.

I think there is a teardrop shaped opening on the stomach. I had the same issues with this mini so instead harvested her left hand to repair a great bones mini that was sadly discontinued because her left hand wouldn't form correctly in bones. Juliette 03547 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/juliet/latest/03547#detail/IG_1573_1

Anyone else find the minis in this add-on a bit unsettling? And I don't just mean the weird S&M looking one in the chaps. I really liked the giant were-rat but the rest just creeped me out too much to pick up.

Some questions; Why didn't you straighten the sword before starting? Is this your normal painting style or were you trying something new? It looks good but there is a ton of paint on it. Is it a style choice? What would you say you learned about painting plaid? I still haven't figured out a solid technique for plaid but have been going kind of the opposite way as you did. I have been putting a light off-color base (light tan or off-white) and then working the color stripes in very watered down colors so they show through each other. But then I am limited to lighter plaids. If I start with a color base and color stripes it just looks like a clown.

Nice job. I like the choice of making the spikes bone. I loved painting this guy, it is one of Reapers best Bones minis in my opinion.

The bright colors are awesome.

Why didn't you use a wash or a glaze? A wash on the body and then a clear glaze on the eye would make all the fine detail you put into this tiny guy pop so much.

That mini look so much cooler with green skin.

Nice paint job, it almost makes me overlook how much I hate how awkward this mini is positioned.

I saw an ad for the game Halo and the character had a gold helmet visor which I thought looked cool. Currently my idea for 6 year old rules are, Each turn move one CAV 4 spaces then either move another 4 spaces or shoot at a target within 4 spaces. The dice have miss, 1, 2 and knocked down. Each CAV can take 4 damage before being knocked down. Plus each model has a unique ability (move +2, take +2 damage, give +1 damage, shoot +2 distance, jump over obstacles, shoot twice if no move taken & fix knocked down CAV)

Painted up some shiny CAVs for my nephews. Going to get a hex map and invent some rules six year olds can understand and paint up a blank dice with hit, miss and destroy on them.

I have been using Winsor Series 7 sable brushes sizes 1 & 00 for the last few years but the art store by my house had a sale on Winsor University Series synthetic sable brushes so I picked up all the inbetween sizes that I didn't have (2, 0, 000) just to have them. But I have found the synthetic brushes really springy, like fishing line. They almost snap when I use them rather than being soft. Do the soften with time? Can they be conditioned or is there just a big difference between real and synthetic and I would just have to get used to it?

More skeletons, always more skeletons. Specifically, these; http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/skeleton/sku-down/02210 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/skeleton/sku-down/03481 Not only are they cool they are great if you need to replace a weapon off another mini or want a skull or boney hand reaching out of the ground for a base.

I would put some silver or gold on that chain around her waist.

So you are saying we can expect Reaper to release Bones in the near future that are not part of the up coming Bones Kickstarter?