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DanMayhem's Achievements

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  1. I came home from vacation to find this beauty in my mailbox: (and I found some more photos in this thread: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/55847-metal-and-bones/ ) Thanks Wolfie907! She'll fit right in in the campaign I'm running. In other news, I dropped my exchange mini in the mail today.
  2. Ok, I've been working, just not posting over the last couple weeks. So here's the update. Since the last update I highlighted up the steel, and also shadowed and highlighted the gold. The highlights were blowing out so the last picture I took was pretty dark to try to show them better. Lessons learned - thanks for all the advice: - Find reference work - lexomatic - Shade down (and reclaim areas if needed) - Darkmeer & Willen - Blue liner is too strong - Willen - Glaze don't wash - MonkeySloth Additionally I think I need to be more patient and that will help my transitions be smoother. I'm ready to call Barnabas done so I can start fresh using what I've learned. Please welcome the Battleguard Golem. While this guys is, ostensibly, composed entirely of metal, I'm not going to use metallic paints everywhere. I think I will quickly become overwhelmed that way. Instead I'm going to focus the metallics on some of the larger plates, and do the other areas in non-metallic colors (painted metal?). Once again my focus is to improve my technique not to paint the best ever minis. So here's the golem covered with brown liner: I've also updated the first post with some links to tutorials I've used. There are others, but I didn't have the links handy.
  3. I used POP for a long time when I started with Bruce's molds. It worked fine but when I tried Merlin's magic for the first time I was hooked. MM is much sturdier, cures faster, and pours easier.
  4. Buoyed by Darkmeer's and Willen's advice, I added a balck wash to the deepest shadows. I also let iPhoto "enhance" these pictures, but I'm not sure if it really made them any better. Since these were taken, I've started bringing back the midtone and highlighting up, I should have another set of photos this weekend.
  5. Thanks for the tip. I will give that a shot. I started this thread to try to learn some stuff.
  6. I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this project. I began by applying a very thin green-blue wash to the steel, followed by a darker blue wash, and finally a wash made with blue liner. The first two washes didn't seem to do much at all (which I think was the goal) but the last one turned everything blue (the sword in particular is in bad shape). At this point I got really frustrated and I start building this (unfinished) for a game I've got coming up: I'm not sure what my next step is the thought of starting from scratch is a little unpleasant, but I'm not sure how to "fix" him otherwise. And I think I I just continue I'll never be happy with the result. Another part of me thinks I should set him aside and pick up the golem, as the golem seems to have a fewer fiddly bits, and it may be a little easier to get a good result.
  7. Not much to show in this update - and my lighting wasn't great again. I guess I need to spend some time in the Shutterbug forum . Anyway, this is mostly just showing some touch ups I did on the base coat. I also applied a wash to the leather and some highlights to the red. Paints used so far are: Golden Shadow (for his hands) Oiled Leather (for scabbard, belt, pouches, etc) Carnage Red (for non-metal garments) Grey Liner (undercoat and lining) Vallejo Model Air Steel & Vallejo Model Air Gold for the metallics Secret Weapon Ruby Wash on leather. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow. I've also started shading the steel, and I'll get some pics of that.
  8. I'm glad you got this as this is what I was going for. I figured if I didn't mention the inspiration, and someone recognized it as a Tonberry, I could call it a success. :)
  9. Here's the day's progress. I basically just roughed in most of the base coat. This has been my approach recently: dark underpaint in recess and areas where I may want lining (I did the whole model in this case, because I wasn't sure how the metallic paints would take to bones). Then block in areas of color letting the underpainting show through as lining. Then evaluate the mini to make sure I'm happy with the colors, etc. (this is where I am now). Next I'll go over the whole model and tidy everything up. I painted some things as metal, that I'm pretty sure the sculptor didn't intend to be metal in the interest of the exercise. Photography is going to be tricky on these guys... I've never tried NMM. I just bought some metallic paints when I first started because I didn't know what NMM was. Since then I've always just used metallic paints because I had them.
  10. Not much progress today - I had a friend in form out-of-town. Also - I'm starting with Barnabas, not Almaran. Anyway, her took a hot bath, then a cold bath, then a soapy bath. Then I got him covered in grey liner. My normal photo set up relies on sunlight, so I just took a quick photo at my desk... and I can see that missed a mold line. I've been looking at all the photos of this mini that I can find (good advice, lexomatic). and I'm thinking I'm going to mostly for a well-maintained steel look, with some gold accent pieces (e.g. helmet, gauntlets, kneepads).
  11. I've been painting for nearly a year now, but I've never been happy with the TMM work I've done. This community has been really helpful in giving advice on some other pieces I've done, so I decided to pick out a handful of mini's with a lot metal on them, and put up a WIP. Hopefully, by the time I'm done I'll be much better. The finalists are: From left to right - 77055 - Anval Thricedamned, Evil Warrior - 77094 - Trista, the White Wolf - 77168 - Battleguard Golem - 77023 - Barnabus, Human Warrior - 77058 - Almaran the Gold, Paladin I've started prepping Almaran, hopefully I'll get some time to paint this weekend and be able to get some pictures up. References: http://mainlymedieval.com/ozpainters/viewtopic.php?t=878 http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1232-painting-metallics http://monkeyman7x.com/articles/metals-silver/ [edit 5/16/2014: added references]
  12. I'm not sure how many you are talking about, but I fly weekly for work, and I have about a dozen or so small neodymium magnets in my laptop bag associated with various gadgets (e.g. iPad smart cover, power cables) and I have *never* heard a word about it from TSA.
  13. Willen- the bottles could use more than some shading, the scale is off, and they are too asymmetric for my tastes. I would rather scrap them and start over than try to clean them up. However, I think I'm going to put this project on hold for a bit. I'm out of town this week and when I get home I should have received some new mins in the mail which will pull my attention away from this town square at least for now. That said, I really appreciate the feedback provided here. It's so helpful to me to get a fresh pair of eyes on my work.
  14. The fountain tile is patterned styrene sheet - they are 0.25" squares. I believe this particular sheet was from evergreen, but other companies make them as well. My local hobby store (mostly RC stuff, but they've got a pretty good model train section) has racks of the stuff from evergreen, plastruct and JTT - in all sorts of different patterns. It's a great way to add some detail to terrain or bases without a huge sculpting effort. In this case I had a 6" x 12" sheet, and cut off a 6"x6" sheet for "base" (I used a fancy paper cutter I have for bookbinding, but it cuts easily with a hobby knife and a straight edge). I then cut a few long 1-tile wide pieces and glued them to three sides of some .25"x.25" square styrene rods I had in my bits box. These rods were then glued to the base. Then, because I was sloppy, I filled in the gaps with some modeling paste. I really hate giving a nice sculpt like this the "statue treatment" but I've got a growing backlog of items to paint, and at least this way she'll make it to the table.
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