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About cldudley

  • Birthday 06/22/1981

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    Michigan, USA

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  1. Looks great! Every time I look at this sculpt I wonder what the sculptor was thinking with regards to the anatomy of this piece.
  2. Hi forumites! So with my recently received order of plastic narcotics, I also recieved something new, a bottle of MSP Bones HD in Dragon Green. :) It's a very nice deep green color. Before I washed my bones in warm water with some dish soap, I painted a little line of the green on the plastic toothbrush neck near where the bristles are, where I knew it would spend considerable time in the water for scrubby time. The paint dried wonderfully matte, and was very opaque. I barely needed to shake it to mix, and it came out of the dropper perfectly mixed. After spending around a half-hour to scrub 20-off figures (I let it dry first of course, about 10 minutes), I would like to report that the paint didn't even think of cracking or coming off. That is some serious adhesion there! I even tried rubbing it with my thumb, and it stayed put. The edges didn't even feather or crack, it retained sharp lines. I suddenly believe Reaper's claim that if I use the HD paint as an undercoat, there is no need to use a primer on Bones. Even with the good coverage, it watered down nicely in my tiny amount of testing, so that I think I could use it as a layer or maybe even a wash. Color me even more impressed. So... I'm thinking of buying the one of the HD cases now... Thanks for the awesome paint Reaper, it has definitely made me want to grab more HD colors!
  3. I started watching your videos shortly after I began getting into this hobby, very glad to see a new one! p.s. Also subbed to your YT channel
  4. I hear chainmail miniskirts are all the rage these days. ;)
  5. This intrests me. One of the big claims made for the formula P3 paints is the "liquid pigment" that is supposed to be superior to whatever everyone else is using. Of the current ranges I've used and listed in my top post, the P3 is the only range that doesn't seem to separate in it's container. I can leave one of my P3 colors set for a couple months, open it, and the paint is still mixed and the consistency is good. My other main line, the Vallejo Model Color (and ESPECIALLY the VGC) will separate into what I assume is the pigment and mediums within a couple of hours. I have "almost" the full line of Army Painter WarPaints (I don't have black or white, who needs 8 of those?) and have found them to separate also, although I rarely use them anyway because I've had them become grainy when I water them down. I had presumed that the only difference with the P3 paints was the "liquid pigment" and that kept them from separating like the other colors do, but you are saying it is the mediums and additives instead? Is there an additive/medium/mixture I can add into my other paints to help their separation anxiety? ;-)
  6. I had read that somewhere about the P3 paints being the same as Coat d'Arms, although I thought that the P3 was the only model paint that used liquid pigments? I am seriously considering buying the rest of the P3 line to fill out my paints. I have been using a lot of VMC, but the amount of shaking required, and then it's tendency to separate out on the palette afterwards, is really starting to annoy me. Doubly so when my P3 gets one quick rap and it's perfect for a couple hours on the wet palette with no more muss. Any idea where one gets Coat d'Arms in the US? I primarily buy through Miniature Market and The War Store.
  7. Although I have hated the pots the P3 paints came in, the paints themselves have been consistently pretty excellent, maybe my favorite so far after working with the different sets I've tried (VMC, VGC, P3, GW, AP). I don't know if it has to do with the "liquid pigments" or some other property, but they just seem to cover smoothly and thin down perfectly for me every time, and over the last couple months I have actually gotten accustomed to the paint pots I cursed originally. Now my question. The color selection in the P3 line is a lot smaller than the other lines I am using. At first glance, it looks like all of the critical colors are represented well enough for it not to matter so much as long as I am willing to mix colors, which so far I haven't had TOO much trouble with. I am, however, a beginning painter, and speak from a position of inexperience, possibly ignorance of a lot of topics that will become important as I advance in my painting. Does anyone else use the P3 line primarily, and have you found particular colors or color combinations that just aren't easy to get from their range? This board has a ton of great painters, do you guys normally mix your paints for the colors and tones you want, or do you keep a bazillion colors around to always have one you want at hand? *EDIT* I listed MSP in my "used lines" list, but I meant Army Painter. Freudian slip? ;-)
  8. Hi board! I am making a spreadsheet with color swatches for all of the MSP line. I did the same thing for the Vallejo GC line, but MSP is much larger obviously. :) Everything is going fine, except that on the website a bunch of the higher-SKU triads don't say what colors are in them. For example Old Favorites II and friends. Is there an official list anywhere with all of the triads and what colors each contains?
  9. Thanks for the video to make it clear! Watched both that one and video 22, where he goes over the things he likes about the MSP. Very informative. Also thank you everyone else for the feedback! Guess I will have to pick up a couple triads for the minis I will inevitably purchase during the 12 Days event. :)
  10. Hi forums, Well, back again. My foray into making washes and paints using mediums and Daler-Rowney inks was fun and enlightening, but didn't produce anything worth looking at. ;-) In any case, my current set of paints comprise about 20 Vallejo Model Color, the full set of Vallejo Model Air Mettalics, and most of a set of Army Painter WarPaints. My experiences with these paints are varied, summarised like so: The warpaints are bright and vibrant, but the range is very limited. I can mix colors reasonably, but getting consistent results across painting sessions is really difficult. Also, while the paints seem less apt to separate than the Vallejos, they take more coats to cover, and a lot of them have kind of a "chalky" quality to them. They thin down okay with my thinning mix (50% matte medium, 40% distilled water, 10% liquitex flow aid) but they kind of separate when thinned much with straight water. The metallics from the Model Air series I am really pleased with. They cover very well, are pretty thin from the dropper, and I like the selection of colors. The only real downside with these is separation, which happens in the dropper very quickly, and even within a few minutes on my pallete. These things need constant mixing. I am never entirely certain if I've gotten even the majority of the pigment off the bottom of the dropper because they separate so fast. The model color line is my go-to at the moment when I have the color I want. They are thick from the dropper, but thin down really perfectly, I can go down to ink consistency and the paint still holds together. Coverage is pretty good when not too thin, and while it separates in the dropper, it usually stays together on the palette. My real gripe with these guys are the problem I seem to have with rub-off. The color just comes right off the mini if I touch it with anything liquidy on my fingers, be it water, alcohol, what have you. Even touching it with dry hands it seems to want to come off the edges, and I have experienced some cracks around areas of flexion on my bones minis. I also have a small selection of the P3 paints. The paints themselves seem nice, but I can't stand the pots. I've transfered some into dropper bottles, but the wastage from doing this borders on heart-breaking. All that said, I like to try out different paints and materials to find what I like, and the next on my list is Reaper MSP and HD. But first, a few questions: I read in a review somewhere (I can't seem to find it now!) that the MSP have a lot of flow improver in them, enough that they dry a little tacky and can form cracks as they dry. Is this true, or just some reviewer venting his spleen? With the flow-improver and consistency already adjusted in the dropper, how much thinning to the paints need after dispensing? Is the purpose of the HD line to lay down the basecoat over the primer? Or is it intended as an alternative line to the MSP? I know that all paint separates some (except for the P3 strangely, they claim the use of "liquid pigments" that don't separate, and indeed I haven't had any of those colors break down) but how much do the MSP/HD paints separate? Some of the Vallejos I have to shake until my wrist hurts before using, otherwise I get a blob of binder instead of paint. The bottles in the pictures all say "Made in the USA," does that mean that Reaper actually makes the paints? I have friends who have been burned by a manufacturer changing suppliers in the past, which is why I have the Vallejo paints, but as I am quickly becoming a Reaper fanboi I would like another excuse to send them money. ;-) There are probably more questions, but these are my main ones. Also, the whole triad idea I think is pretty awesome, setting one up for success right off the bat.
  11. @psyberwolfe1 What are the glazes/juices that you are referring to?
  12. Hi board, first time posting here. Just got into the whole miniatures hobby a couple of months back, and I must say it is serious fun. Have been enjoying myself immensely. Right now I am painting my figures with Vallejo Model Color paints and Army Painter Ink washes, but after seeing the instructions for Les' Wash Recipe and reading a series on Warseer about painting figures primarily with washes, a different and odd idea came to mind. Making the washes using Les' recipe seems easy enough, and with the range of colors in the Daler-Rowney line, I could make enough wash colors to paint my minis in washes without being limited to the pallete available in existing wash lines, a huge plus. However...extending that idea... By varying the recipe, for example by cutting down on the water/flow-aid mixture and using more matte medium, does this provide a way for me to bring the thickness up from a wash but just down from model paint, essentially allowing me to make my own set of paint colors pre-thinned for blending? Has anyone tried this? Is there some major point I am overlooking in my newbie zeal? Also: I do realize that the VMC paints are vinyl-y, and that making paints from ink+medium would probably rub off easier than the VMC, but I would put varnish/sealer over the VMC in any case, so that doesn't seem like that would be an issue.
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