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4tonmantis

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Posts posted by 4tonmantis

  1.  

     

    I want this as a mini!!

     

    Death Dealer squirrel on battlefrog (huge pic)

     

    I have this pic as my phone lock screen, along with my cover page on 'book. Love it!

    I think I want that hanging over my fireplace!!

     

     

    I want that as a 54mm mini!!!!

     

    It strikes me as more the sort of thing you have done as a giant bronze statue placed in the most conspicuous part of your entry way. Or.. perhaps as a topiary.. ooh..

    • Like 4
  2. I've got all of the board games.. Haven't gotten through all of them yet though. The minis from the Ravenloft set are among my favorites of the board game figures and are some of the best in terms of quality as well. ToEE and Drizzt have some pretty shallow details and a high number of things to straighten.

    Gameplay is as described above. The mechanics of it are kinda like a mashup of 4th ed, munchkin, and Twilight Creations Zombies game. The core game does change ever so slightly too from what I remember.

     

    I had heard a rumor that there's another board game coming out soon as well. I'm hopeful but hope the minis get back to Ravenloft and Ashardalon in quality.

    • Like 2
  3. There's a company that makes 20mm miniatures in post-apocalyptic styling specifically for hot-wheel/matchbox gaming.

    I can't link directly but just google Stan Johansen Miniatures and add mad max or post apoc or whatever.. it should come up.

     

    EDIT: Just make sure when you find the page that you click the 20mm not the 28mm. Otherwise you'll probably have the same scale issues.

  4. I have.. a LOT of this scale diecast and plastics.. would it be helpful if I posted pictures of what I've got?

     

    Just an FYI. A lot of interstate gas stations and touristy type stops have these types of cars. I have also found them in tractor supply stores, drug stores, hardware stores, etc. I picked up a lawn mower/tractor, a green landscaping cart/truck (kinda like an ATV but with a truck bed), and some other really unusual cars.

    • Like 2
  5. The Wal-Mart here in California had some of those big rigs. I got the cattle hauler and big box truck.

     

    I've been buying up "1/43" cars as well as similar scales.. I've found that a lot of cars marked as 1/43 are actually closer to 1/50. A lot of time the scale is just a guess and the cars are actually built to specific lengths or wheelbases. IMO the difference isn't noticeable until you start comparing though. If you have some here and there on a tabletop or one randomly in a diorama, it'll most likely go unnoticed.

  6. I randomly got a $15 coupon from Warlord and applied that to the main rulebook which is on it's way. I already own a box of the soldiers, which as has been pointed out are more like maybe 25mm. I'll largely be converting mine into hobgoblins and maybe a few D&D style orcs, though I might sculpt the legs out a little longer so they don't look tiny next to human-sized adventurers.

     

    I'm looking forward to the Gnolls as well but between the ToEE plastics and Bones gnolls, I'm not sure how well the FG ones will work if they're vastly undersized. Tre's sculpts are really nice but they tend to be on the big size and the D&D ones are even bigger.  Makes me wonder how big the Hasselfree ones are too..

    • Like 4
  7. Awesome! I met Jim Silke at SDCC a few years back. Got a signed sketchbook from him and chatted a while. Back then I asked him if they ever considered a Death Dealer movie and he said it was too much of a hassle. He doesn't get enough credit for Death Dealer. I love Frazetta's work and even have one of his limited DD statues on my bookshelf but Jim is Gath's daddy. Frank just gave him a badass look.

    • Like 1
  8.  

    Christie-Cleek.

    Sawney Bean and his family.

    Sweeney Todd and the lady that owned the pie shop.

     

    Admiral Lord Nelson.

    Robert Peel.

     

     

    The Auld Grump - In Fleet Street, that's in London Town,

    When old King Charlie wore the crown,

    There lived a man of great renown!

    'Twas Sweeney Todd, the Barber.

    One shave from him and you'd want no more,You'd feel his razor sharp,Then tumble, wallop!, through the floorAnd wake up playing a harp, and singing . . .

    Sweeney Todd the Barber, My God! He was better than the play!

    Sweeney Todd the Barber,I'll polish them off, he used to say!

    His clients through the floor would slopeBut he had no fear of the hangman's rope"Dead men can't talk with their mouths full of soap,"Said Sweeney Todd the Barber....

     

     

    Someone did an awesome conversion of Reaper's Benedict Baker as Sweeney Todd but I can't find the pictures of it. I always forget that they don't actually make a barber of fleet street..

  9. Thanks everyone :)

    Mori - In comic art speak, that's a color hold. I'm glad you like my work :)

    BLZeebub - ToH.. it's not ringing bells. Either way, happy to hear you dig my art. I'm still getting a handle with sculpting in GS/Putty and have done a bit in 3d too.

    Xherman - Thank you!

    The non-NDA miniatures I worked on were a few for Chapterhouse and a dropship from a Sci-Fi KS. I have been and am involved in a few other things but details aren't available on those.

    It is exceedingly hard to find work doing any one type of art I've found, so I've tried to keep a handle on different media. I'm hoping work will pick up so I can get a 3d printer eventually.

     

    Here's some more

     

    DaredevilDrawoff_Colors.jpg

     

    upperbody-study.jpg

     

    study_of_clint_eastwood_by_mantisazure.j

    • Like 5
  10. The Wargames Factory/Warlord Zombie Survivors can be built as civillians. The poses are more action-y though than just some random clix standing in a neutral pose like an NPC. Specter Miniatures has some civilians but.. they tend to be pretty specific to rescue or escort mission type stuff.

     

    If I remember I'll dig out some of my other links later.

  11. Ok, let me ask u this. The paint bottles are 3.125 oz each. How many drops do you think would be enough in each bottle

     

    I think you'd be better served adding it in the pallete. I used to put their thinner medium and slow dry in all of my eyedropper paints and that got expensive fast and in some cases resulted in separation of the different substances including the acrylic from the thinner hardening inside the eyedropper over time.

    You can get little mixing palletes for usually less than a dollar at craft stores or you can make a wet pallete with a few paper towels, a piece of un-needed plastic, a few ounces of distilled water, and a tupperware container (the water has to be distilled).

     

    Craft paints usually come in 3 finishes.. satin or semi gloss, gloss, and matte or chalk or flat. Which translates into shiny, super shiny (and usually thick or hard to thin), and more or less flat. Sometimes it's hard to spot the label as to the finish so examine the label on the shelf and on the product.

    • Like 2
  12. I did a test where I painted one bones with Reaper brown liner.  (newer bottle)  Then I did another with red RMS HD.

     

    I tried the thumbnail scrap on both of them.

     

    The Brown liner came off much easier than the red HD.

     

    I will finish painting them and give them another fingernail test or maybe just leave them with the prepainted miniatures in the travel case.  (A fate worse than death!)

     

    So far it seems like diluted vallejo acrylic varnish seems to be the best protection.  It's 100% acrylic resin so I don't know how it could react badly to anything.

     

    The varnished bones pathfinder goblins are still going strong being thrown around in the travel case without any major chipping or scrapes.

     

    Testors Dullcote hasn't reacted badly for me though I doubt it's as strong as the Vallejo varnish. I'm thinking I might pick up a bottle of that next time I'm in town and use the dullcote to flat it back out.

  13. I learned a trick from a watercolor book. You use the complimentary contrasting color (opposite on the color wheel) to darken the color you want. Use pure black to get it darker though because the darkest you'll get mixing like that is going to be dark brown. So mix a red and green at maybe 2:1 (more red) until it's darkish then add a bit of black. The darker the starting colors are the less you have to mix. So a deep forest green and a deep crimson red will likely get you there faster with less black needed. Hopefully it works. Going really dark like that is hard, tricky, and typically wasteful.

    • Like 1
  14. I've not read through everything here but I thought I would throw my experiences onto the pile.

     

    I used Krylon Plasticoat (Fusion I think is the name) White and it gave me a sticky finish on some Bones. I was able to overcome that with two coats of Testors Dullcote.

    I used Army Painter Green Spray Primer. That can is putting out very rough sprays on everything (not just Bones) but it was not sticky.

    I don't think any of the bones in question were washed and probably had various levels of dust.

    • Like 1
  15. With the demise of the Boneyard, I would like to see a conversion pack focused on the backpacks that have crossbows attached, quivers with bows for being worn on the back, and other things we can add to fantasy troops to give them more of an adventurer look. I was browsing the Reaper site for minis and I kept finding some that matched what I need except they'd have no ranged weapons. Most players I know are in the habit of having a melee and at least one type of ranged weapon.

     

    Ideally..

    Backpack with Crossbow

    Quiver with Bow

    Backpack or satchel with scroll cases and/or wands

    A strip of throwing daggers that are cast on a ribbon of pewter so they could be arranged down a leg or along a cloak or inside of a coat.

    A pack with a throwing axe or just a throwing axe(s) with a loop to put on a belt or bag.

    Double bolt cases with a reapeating crossbow strapped between them.

    • Like 6
  16. I'll be honest, I had never realized how BIG 1/43 cars are  :rock:

     

    A sedan style car tends to be roughly 5"

     

     

     

     

    Is Dollar Tree equivalent (as far as cheap, 1/43 cars go) to Dollar General? I think I've seen 1-2 Dollar General in SoCal, but I've absolutely no recollection where. Dollar Tree, however, are on about every other block...

     

    Dollar General is not a dollar store.. it's kinda like Big Lots. It depends where you are in SoCal. I'm closer to central Cali but I saw a Dollar General out at Fresno. In San Diego I had the best luck finding 1/43 Diecast at Rite-Aid and other general purpose drug stores. They usually have a display on a toy aisle or at the front. Dollar Tree rarely has appropriately sized cars and when they do it tends to be a plastic kinda like tupperware sorta. I picked up a pair of SUVs from an actual Dollar Tree and they're not anywhere near the quality of most diecast. The doors don't open, the wheels are detailed like Happy Meal toys, a lot of details like headlights are actually stickers. Oh.. and.. it's covered in those stickers so that's a bit of rubbing alcohol to clean up. However, they were the correct size and make great wreckage or with a bit of work could even serve as an actual vehicle. (disassemble, insert clear plastic sheet from packaging for windows, paint job, maybe replace tires).

    If you end up wanting to detail a vehicle google up zinge (I think it's zinge industries or zinge models or something). They have a TON of mechanical bits for order, including tires, engines, lights, railings, etc.

     

    Another note.. 1/43 is a very common size for slot cars and 1/48 is an extremely common size for military models, particularly aircraft.

    A lot of construction-type vehicles are 1/50.

     

     

    Be careful with this. Some that are listed at 1/50 are definitely smaller than 1/50. This is especially true for Hotwheel listings that show as 1/50. I bought some of the Elite series 1/50 hoping for some cool cheap cars.. They are so small I am probably going to use them for 15mm instead.

  17. To me, one of the problems with KS projects is establishment of preconceived notions. We see one KS structure this way and another kind of similar and eventually we start to assume that's how it should be. For example, I saw a person flipping out because the rewards for a terrain KS were not the goal of the KS. The goal was to fund a bigger laser cutter and a new facility or something.

     

    This is one specific example but dealing with this one specifically, this is inherent to the nature of KS projects based on miniatures or toys or boardgames.

    People didn't pitch a fit about Megabots offering t-shirts and stickers and posters and stuff as rewards vs the funding goal of funding a giant combat bot. So... that's one thing.

     

    Another is this tendency of creating low-ball projects. Mantic has been REALLY bad about this and CMoN a bit too. Reaper IMO gets a pass because they start off at a point where it's probably feasible IMO. Regardless, we see these KS pop up and they have a goal of like $30k. That includes a game and usually 1 figure or a few or whatever. Clearly not enough to play the game. Then slowly the other stuff gets added... and it's extremely obvious that the things being added were integral to the core game that was supposed to be the point in the first place. It gets worse when companies add KS exclusives that end up on sale later or the prices for the KS end up being the MSRP but during the KS they're made out to be great bargains.

     

    The problem that upsets me the most though is deliveries. Projects never seem to deliver on time (with exceptions, I believe including Reaper IIRC). However, when you mention it in the comments, you get accosted immediately. "Oh, that's just how it is". "Oh you must be new to KS". "Pfff..this is nothing I waited 20 years for my last KS to arrive". People are quoting the messed up way it is now as the way it's supposed to be. That seems beyond backwards to me. What.. since it's been that way we're supposed to just accept that if they tell us 1 year they really mean 3? NOOOOOOO.. I don't think so. This is creating a really bad habit. If a business is going to go into distribution on a potentially wide scale, they need to spend time on the front end analysis and they need to invest their capital in ensuring they are able to uphold their end. Not just pocketing the profit and dragging their feet so they can save money.

     

    The last thing I'm seeing is some of these small companies (not that many anymore, it was worse at first) who pop up overnight. They have some 3d models and some concept art. They get funded and POOF. They run away. People defend them saying "well, it's not a store"... or "you knew the risk when you put your money down". This is a HUGE misconception. These companies ARE held accountable (just not by KS). The BBB has gone after numerous hit and run style KS fraud cases. This doesn't seem to stop people from acting like they're in an abusive relationship with KS and defending all of these horrible behaviors though.

     

    KS really is not a store. However, you're not out of options if you get screwed over by a KS project. Likewise, before pledging to ANY KS, look around. There are a LOT of manufacturers who've been in the business a long time and might be struggling. If a new resin terrain KS pops up, maybe look around at guys like Armorcast, Ainsty, Scotia Grendel, etc before dumping money in something that may or may not arrive and may or may not be what you were hoping. A lot of times you will get a better deal than you thought too. It won't include KS exclusives and free dice towers or dice bags or whatever, but it will come with helping the businesses that have brought miniatures to where they are.

    • Like 1
  18. Kudos on assembling this. I was so upset at the lack of quality in the figs I can't even assemble them without getting thoroughly upset. If they hadn't delayed it to supposedly ensure the quality of the figs it wouldn't have been so bad.

    Anyway.. what sort of primer did you use? It looks like you're having to do a few coats to get your base colors down.

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