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Everything posted by lexomatic

  1. I think from what I've been reading, I do some layering and a fair bit of glazing. I'm planning on trying some wet blending for fur (I'm going to try and imitate my cat, Moose, on a mini), and I think his cow pattern might work better like that. Am I correct to think that I'd want to thin the paint less than I'm used to?
  2. Thanks for this tutorial. I've been looking for something like this for one mini. I'm going to try with what I have on hand, though.
  3. Thanks. The blue was the only way to do what I wanted to do with stuff on-hand. I would totally do it again. This is the fluorescent paint I used. The youtube videos are not really worth looking at, though.
  4. I came across this in another thread. Maybe it could be helpful here? It's about a water effects base, using PVA glue.
  5. I decided to do an ink/matte medium mix on my translucent bones (because I don't have clear paints), because of your green guy. I did a pale drybrush highlight after, and I like it. You can see it here.
  6. These are almost done. 77009 Werewolf: the basecoat reminded me of the maroon and tan Wolverine costume from way back. I promptly got rid of that, but I wish I hadn't. I might try to bring it out a bit at the end. I did blue veins after the basecoat, but they're pretty faded now. The highlights didn't work, but it's a step. I really like the blue eyes - they're piercing... but not too visible from this picture. 77098 Spirit: I wanted to try glow in the dark paint. I based with matte medium. Then I did about 4 coats of glow in the dark paint. It takes a really long time under a lamp to get it to glow faintly. I'm probably going to go for some more coats. It did kinda dry with a cloudy finish, though. Then I saw someone's mini with the clear tamiya, and I decided I wanted to try that. I have some artists' acrylic ink (prussian blue) that I mixed with the matte medium. I used that on the shroud. It looks pretty cool. One thing I love on my ghosts is a pale color as a drybrushed highlight. I really like how the pale blue looks in person. Not sure how close it looks in this photo. This one still needs the plastic base coloured - I'm thinking of trying matte medium with some brown ink I have. Keep things as translucent as possible. I might properly base this one later as an experiment with some Golden Pumice Gel medium.
  7. I'm really happy to see you working on this. It's giving me ideas for the kickstarter version I'm planning on getting. My thought was getting something bigger to work on really figuring out painting muscles on something I can see much more easily. I think that will work, but as you're showing, it will be a lot of work. I think I remembered seeing something about doing the veins early - after basecoat - so that with layering etc, they would be softened but visible. Do you think that would work better than what you did, working on the veins later?
  8. I also like the more animals. I think a lot has been done for the kickstarter II, but yes to animals. I'd like to see more unarmed modern figures - police, firemen, hazmat, something that would be everyday for modern gaming. I would also support diversity of cultures/historic stuff as mentioned above by Stoakley Lloyd. The only stuff I can think of is the Egyptian stuff - some of which was converted for the recent kickstarter.
  9. I was thinking about the white on the forearm fur. It seems like it's drybrushing that's standing out due to the detail of the photo. That's why I was curious how it looked to the eye.
  10. I'm thinning them a lot, apparently. I'm going by something I found online. Basecoats are about 1 paint:1 thinner , layers 1:2 down to about 1:4, washes about 1:5 to 1:10. I start at 1:5 then add a drop until it "looks right." I was looking at the instructions for LTPK3 and it looks like 5:1 in a lot of cases. I'm using the Reaper LTPK brushes, and also a few of these http://www.winsornewton.com/products/brushes/for-acrylic-colour/regency-gold For most of these minis I wasn't doing many coats. 1 of white brush-on primer, a basecoat, a wash, and drybrush. I had too much paint a lot of the time dry-brushing.
  11. I like the wrewolf colouring a lot. Is that white section on the right visible without the close-up of the photo? Do you konw what hapened there?
  12. I looked at that thread yesterday. Very motivational. I wish I had more time to paint. I'm using mostly Reaper paints, but I have a little bit of Vallejo Game Colour (nobody local carries Reaper paints without special order, so I just order directly), which I find incredibly runny - I can't thin it for anything, so I just use it for mixing shades (I used magic blue and ___yellow for the tealon the Anhurian's shield). I also have some Liquitex Flow Improver and Slow Dri (I use thinners, 100% water, and 50% water/25% Flow 25% Slow). I've also used Demco Matte Medium (on Bones, only, and it beads a bit), and Americana by Decoart gloss and matte varnishes, and also fluorescent paint.
  13. Those pictures are huge. I don't know what happened. I'll replace those ASAP. Thanks, Malgus.
  14. Here's the last of this first batch - all done over a week, thereabouts. These are from Mega Miniatures (RIP) I don't remember the exact names and numbers of these - I have to look up the invoice. Got these just before Mega Miniatures closed its doors. The pythia figure (named after a character in game she resembles) was one where I tried doing eyes with a micron pen, and it bled all over her face. I quickly repainted it after cleanup, but didn't feel like trying the eyes again. You can't see it in any of these pictures, but the spearman has some faint dots for eyes. That was my only success with a pen. I found it harder than the brush. I liked how his clothes turned out, but it looks much worse with all the detail. I missed his sack originally, and just left it as was. The thief throwing the knife was a huge pain, because he had a million little buckles on the side of his thigh-high boots. I noticed after I'd finished that I'd painted the metal buckles where the straps were. Oops. I was really happy with the ghost, but he's so shiny in pictures. I had a rough version with a blue-grey drybrush highlight. I thought it was too contrasting, and tried to redo a ton of drybrushing so that the ghost gets lighter the further from the centre you get. I'm happy how things transitioned despite it being more white than I wanted at the extremities (too much paint!). The sassy lady reminds me of my friend Whitney (who is sassy). This was in some ways the hardest mini to paint. Some of the Mega Miniatures had tons of detail, but this one didn't. There wasn't much to work with in terms of muscles, or wrinkles in clothing. I tried some minor layering,
  15. I had problems with pens... resulted in one of the accidents I had to clean up (and one of the things I moved on from finishing). I've been trying something similar to the Bette Davis Eyes - I might've even looked at it before. But I'm not getting it yet.
  16. Auburn Shadow, Carrottop Red, and Highlight Orange... aka, the Red Hair Triad. I will never try to paint red hair with anything else, so help me Bob (although I may experiment with starting lower, e.g. Mahogany Brown, or maybe even starting higher, e.g. using Carrottop as the shade instead of the midtone. Marsya has an excellent thread on red hair here that I would recommend. And this is why Marsya is the Mistress of Crimson Tresses. I like how aged the skeletons look. Also how dark the rat is. I did a brush on gloss coat, then a few brush on matte coats with mine. I waited 24 hours after I finished painting, then a week after the gloss coat, then I just left each matte coat overnight. As for the red hair issue above. I had good success with a "carrot-top." I mixed an orange from red and yellow, did a brown wash, and then added some more orange, and a little yellow as a highlight. I was very happy how that turned out. I only have the one pic uploaded right now. Far Left
  17. Thanks. The green DOES come out thin... but I think in this case it's because I painted 1 coat over the finished "linen." From what I can tell I tend to paint with really thinned paints compared to what's recommended (definitely thin compared to what's recommended in LTPK3). The current batch I'm testing a few more coats and layering to see how that goes.
  18. My current batch I'm redoing the eyes on three of them... if they don't turn out, I'm moving on. I think starting out it's important to be able to take what you've learned and apply it to the next mini... you can always redo it later when you're better. I'm definitely having an easier time, but I don't have the hang of it yet. Last photo update to the main post for today. Mason Rowan, who was the cheapest mini I could find at my FLGS.
  19. Thanks, Citrine. I wanted to try and do what I thought were more realistic colour choices for the Anhurian. I had fun mixing the teal on his shield. I wish I had a better pic of it. The "linen" was a bone colour, unnoticeably drybrushed with pure white, and there's an equally unnoticeable brown wash over it . I thought I did a better job with my linen on other minis in this batch. The green pants were because it was getting too "same-y" with the plain linen. I had a lot of paint on the brush when I was drybrushing this batch. Didn't figure it out until I was working on the ghost monk.
  20. I think the bottle glow on Froschmeister worked great. These are amazing.
  21. I really like that Stone Golem. There seem to be a lot of people coming back to painting.
  22. Hey all, I just started painting again about a month ago. When I was in highschool and a bit younger (too long ago) I tried a little bit - I MAY have primed, and MAY have used more than 1 colour paint... but I'm not sure. I found out about the second kickstarter, and figured I should get some practice in before that. I have the first Learn to Paint kit, and a few mega minis that I grabbed before they closed. There was a lot I found frustrating, and a lot that I picked up along the way. 1) I'm never doing eyes last again. Ever. (They still kill me, even though I've read and watched a lot of tutorials, and I can do it on paper). 2) Taking pictures is a good way to see what you've missed... like painting the pants up under the tunic -whoops -especially when it's not visible unless you look. 3) I noticed mold lines after I started. Some of it I couldn't conceive of removing without damaging the mini. They aren't so visible in person. 4) Some of my paints are waaaaaay runnier than others. I managed to cover up some minor issues but it was a huge hassle 5) I learned when to walk away. I'm doing these for gaming, so they don't need to be perfect. 6) These are much shinier than in person, due to needing flash. Here's a group shot, I took quickly with my phone (all pics with the phone for now) There's something I like about all of these... so I guess that's a success. Now updated with LTPK 1 pics and 02303 Mason Rowan pics When I was painting Rowan, I had planned out a tartan on the kilt. The blue paint ran over everything. I managed to clean it off, but I no longer had any interest in going through my complicated plan. I did a quick fake by just doing a few regularly spaced lines of different colours. It does the job. I had to redo the socks as well, and no matter what I did, I couldn't get rid of the grass stain on his knee.
  23. Thanks ub3r, I was mostly curious about the basecoat, if any, under the wash. I tested a section on mine with matte medium - which beaded a little, but dried clear. I was curious if the poster had used something different that I could also try.
  24. I really like the second ghost (with the sword). I just started the one below it - testing out a few things (also my first bones attempts). What did you do for a base to keep the translucent bits?
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