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Everything posted by redpiano

  1. Yep, Scale 75 and Vallejo MC both nice and thick and heavily pigmented like I want. Thank you.
  2. You're wrong, sorry. Glad to be of help, I like your counter-information, too! It seemed to me you were suggesting that all paint is basically the same, so why bother asking about this. If I'm wrong, my apologies. The " it is just the way pigments behave, sorry." sounded very arrogant to me though. I was reading elsewhere on the topic and Vallejo MC is apparently Vinyl based too whereas GC is Acrylic. Although Vallejo calls all of them Acrylic paints so I don't know where this person got their information. What I want is paint that is consistent across the entire range of colors, dries matte or satin(many of my GC's dry gloss) and paints more like Vallejo's Model Colors. But I don't know, maybe I'll just try more MSP's, all I have is brown MSP HD paints.
  3. Vallejo's GC line is simply not like this, and if you ask most people I think they would agree, some of them are great, some of them are awful. The ones that are great are more like the paint from the Model Color line, the grays, gray-blues, some of the blues, a few of the browns, the purples and pinks, black and white and several of the greens are fantastic and are sort of chalky is how I would describe it, they're thick and they cover great, whereas basically all of the other colors are more like a thin syrup and behave and paint and cover totally different. This is why I made this topic, I just want to hear from people who have experience with multiple brands, what colors from what lines do they prefer over others. Thank you, this is what I was looking to get out of this topic. I will give some P3 colors a shot, what are some of their colors you'd recommend the most, not just red and yellow but any colors.
  4. I'll try a few P3's then. Yes. Whether a pigment is transparent or opaque depends on its molecular structure and particle size. Some pigments will just be transparent no matter what you do. Compared to the absolutely opaque heavy metal reds and yellows of yesteryear, today's synthetic organic red and yellow pigments have considerably less coverage. Even when working with artists paints, I get better results laying down an opaque undercoat of something close in color (for yellow, usually mixes including Yellow Iron Oxide, for red Red Iron Oxide) before painting with one of the modern bright but transparent colors. Sure. But this is distracting from the point of the topic. If you're suggesting that because some pigments just don't cover well, which obviously bright stuff like yellow in general doesn't cover as well as something like a brown, that all paints across all brands are created equal, then I have a problem, because that's absolute madness. Yeah, of course, yellow isn't going to cover black easily, this doesn't mean that yellow from any brand is the same, covers the same or behaves and paints the same, even in my Vallejo exclusive experience, Yellow from Vallejo MC covers and paints better than yellow from Vallejo GC, there is an incredibly stark difference and this is what I'm asking about, what paints specifically from what lines do you guys prefer, if you only use one or two brands of paint, sorry if this sounds rude, but your opinion doesn't carry all that much weight because you've only got experience with a single brand of paint and have no idea how it compares to other brands. I'm also not looking for painting advice, I'm simply asking for people's opinions who have experience with a variety of brands, what paints from what brands you prefer over others. I'm noticing a common theme on this forum the more I post, nobody likes to stick to the topic.
  5. Hello So I'm growing tired of dealing with poor pigmented paints every now and then, I own much of Vallejo's Game Color line, some Model Colors and about 10 Reaper MSP HD colors and with both of these I find some of them to be fantastic and some to be just a pain to use because of how thin and lacking pigment they are right out of the bottle. For example Vallejo's Gory Red is awful, same with all of the Game Color yellows and many of the GC greens as well. I do think most of the Model Color line is great though, although I have limited experience with Model Color. With MSP HD the colors I have all seem okay but not the best, even though these are supposed to be heavily pigmented compared to the MSP line, they seem like a mix between good Vallejo MC colors and bad Vallejo GC colors. So my question goes out to people who at least have experience with a few brands, what colors do you feel are the best from the brands you've used. What I'm looking for specifically is heavily pigmented paint, nice and thick so that it can be thinned down, not transparent and milky.
  6. Has anyone ever had issues where super glue just absolutely refuses to bond resin together? I'm assembling about 30 resin Kingdom Death models right now and I have been constantly battling with my bottle of zap-a-gap super glue the entire time and I'm at wits end with it because now the cap has broken because for whatever reason the top of the bottle just becomes covered in crap to the point where the caps won't even go on properly anymore and I tried to force it on and it just broke so now I can't seal it at all. On top of this sometimes the glue just refuses to bond! My best guess is that it has something to do with release agents on the resin but even when I clean the area with alcohol it still sometimes refuses to dry and I end up having to rig a setup to hold the piece in place for hours until it finally dries. Here's what my cap looks like now, I really do not understand how it gets so cruddy looking and messed up, it's always fine for the first half of the bottle or so and it eventually just turns into a mess. So I was hoping some of you might shed some light on this and how to avoid it and what not.
  7. Yeah they're perfect for my purpose, I've got a big blank white wall to my left so they'll hang there. Much appreciated all.
  8. Pretty much exactly what I want, how do they mount on the wall?
  9. Ohhhh, fantastic idea, didn't even consider that. Thanks.
  10. I have mostly Vallejo bottles and some Reaper MSP, I'm looking for a vertical paint rack that will enable me to see the colors in the bottles rather than the caps, I've seen a few on etsy that were nice but they always disappear when I get the cash to order one.
  11. I don't know, the whole reason I ask is because I think TMM is easier to do well, less can go wrong, it doesn't take as many layers to make it look good, while NMM takes a lot of work and a ton of practice to consistently do well. This particular model I'm painting has just poorly cast trim and doing NMM on it is a real paint so I was considering just doing TMM on the trim and keeping the armor itself a sort of NMM, but I just went ahead and did NMM.
  12. This is why you use normal paints to shade and detail TMM so you can control it and make it be shiny where you want it to be and not so shiny where you don't want it to be, at least that's how I always interpreted it. I've seen people use metallics to shade or highlight metallics and I always think it comes out poorly compared to shading with non-metallic paint.
  13. Your storm trooper example is more what I had in mind, I was just thinking about this and figured I'd pose the question to all of you. I'm painting a White Knight from Kingdom Death for a commission and while I was working on the gold NMM I was just thinking how it might look with metallic gold because the armor is painted more like a storm trooper, like a metallic white, not so much an actual steel or something. I did try it out and I think the gold looked fine, sorry I didn't snap a picture, but it looked alright. I did apply silver metallics to the sword though and that looked ridiculous in conjunction with the NMM white armor. Here is another model I tried it on, I don't really like how the model itself turned out but it's not because of the NMM/Metallic mix. While I'm at it, I'd love some criticism on this paint job.
  14. I wasn't quite talking about using metallic paint and then shading it with normal paint, this is how I do metallics as well but rather would NMM on some parts and Metallics on other parts mix.
  15. So I've got a couple minis that I'm debating what to do with, on one I've done NMM red armor, on the other I've done sort of NMM white armor. My question to you is, how do you feel about mixing NMM and Metallics on the same model? Can it work? Obviously doing steel NMM and then using silver paint would look ridiculous but things like red NMM or any kind of colored NMM mixed with Metallic paint for things that are supposed to be gold or silver.
  16. Yeah I suppose I just need to sit down and time myself while I paint and go from there rather than charge specifically for NMM. Many thanks.
  17. Hey, I have a question for others who are doing commission painting, namely, how do you handle NMM painting and metallic painting, it seems to me than NMM should be a premium price as it takes so much more work than metallics but I somewhat fear doing that because people already don't want to pay much for paint work, adding a more expensive option might just scare people away maybe? I don't know, wanted to hear other people's thoughts on this. How do you charge for NMM?
  18. Appreciate all the input, I've got a bunch of tools already that I need to try out. Although if I'm not doing the onion knight first I don't really have any idea what to do instead. Since I don't drink coffee it's my sweet Aperture science coffee mug full of paint brushes.
  19. What all tools do you guys use to smooth things out, how do you get a round or spherical or even cylindrical shape to be that shape and be smooth without messing it up?
  20. Alright, I sculpted another one out of magic sculpt on a mini I don't like, pretty much the same results although I think I prefer magic sculpt to GS. I'll do one more helmet for now and try the way you suggest and if it doesn't come out better I'll just do some sort of creature or something imaginative for practice before moving on to the onion. And very topical reference!
  21. I'm sculpting just the helmet as was suggested, to get the feel for the putty, using green stuff, it looks real pudgy and soft and not sharp and getting the shape of the helm is real difficult. I don't know how ya do it!
  22. Did you have a lot of experience sculpting before doing the Eye Beast?
  23. Yeah, I put a skeleton on the wireframe last night and picked up some Vaseline from town. The problem I run into with magic sculpt is just how slurried up it can get with a little water on it and it's not very firm, but GS I think is too firm. If I do like a 60:40 mix of hardener:resin for the magic sculpt would it still harden at some point?
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