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Everything posted by redpiano

  1. Yeah I've made a lot of bases and added details. I've done a couple capes for 54mm miniatures, a ton of stone floors, a cape or two for 28mm minis, fixing lost detail on casts etc. etc. I still find green stuff hard to use so I might try magic sculpt instead for this. and thanks for the links and everything, I'll be searching through them!
  2. Hello I've been slowly working up the nerve to start sculpting for something like a year now, I've collected the materials necessary over that time and have found the first thing I would like to sculpt. But I really don't know what I'm doing. This is the thing I want to sculpt, it's the Onion Knight from the Dark Souls games. http://img1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20131219120230/darksouls/images/4/44/Catarina_Armor_Concept_Art.png I've got a lot of problems with sculpting this, the biggest one is drawing or sculpting anything that someone else has done instantly makes me compare myself to them and I'm obviously inferior as a beginner and it just frustrates the hell out of me, so maybe I should not start with the Catarina Knight. But I wonder if other people have this same problem and how you deal with it, if at all. The other thing I'm having trouble with is just getting started, what do I start with, how do I get all those definitive lines and plates of armor, do I need to add little pieces of material bit by bit and get the most definition I can just by adding the material to the model or glob it on and sculpt in the definition. Should I start on the head and work down, the legs and work up? The body? I'm getting the same kind of frustration I had when I used to draw back in high school, if the thing I'm making doesn't look like the thing it's supposed to be down to the tee then I just want to throw it in the garbage, with painting I don't feel this way at all because it's basically 100% creative, I don't follow tutorials, looking at pictures doesn't help in any way, you're just using technique to apply paint to a three dimensional surface, not making something from scratch to look like another thing that a skilled craftsman already made(whether that's god/evolution in the case of humans, or the artist in the case of a drawing or other sculpture, all the same.) Excuse the possible venty-nature of this, but I do want advice of any kind.
  3. Yeah I made that thread as well. It really really really sucks if they're shutting down, I finally was going to order the one mini of theirs I wanted to pick up and now I can't.
  4. Their website is down, their twitter has been inactive for a long time and they apparently either deleted everything on their facebook page(including people asking what's going on) or deleted the page entirely.
  5. I've been having issues with pretty much every Vallejo highlight color in existence, white, off-whites, bright flesh tones, all of it, they all paint like garbage for me. So I'm painting a 54mm Andrea model and the character has a lot of skin showing, I'm using Vallejo Panzer Aces flesh tons this time and everything is fine at first, I start with game color charred brown mixed with shadows flesh, then I move up to shadows flesh, then I move up to shadows flesh mixed with flesh base, then flesh base, then things go completely wrong when I try to mix flesh base and highlight flesh together, I mix it the same as I've mixed all the other coats, thin it just as thin, apply it to the model and BOOOOOM there goes hours of work as the paint dries onto the model the moment it touches it and doesn't flatten out or layer on at all, instead I get tide marks everywhere and harsh contrasts wherever I applied the brighter paint and it looks horrible. I've had the exact same experience with Vallejo white in the past, for some reason it just dries at the speed of light and there's nothing I can do about it, I'm using a buttload of retarder and water to thin it and it just won't stop leaving tide marks and it refuses to be layered on. So does anyone have similar problems with Vallejo white and brighter shades and what do you guys think might be happening here?
  6. Well Trista is one of the few female miniatures in existence I like, so I'd really love to see a metal copy.
  7. Yeah sorry, I thought you were asking if that was intended as a comparison to the actual bones minis I linked, not if I thought it was a bones mini.
  8. What's your point? EDIT: If you were asking if I was suggesting that, that was a bones figure, you're mistaken, what I intended was to use it as a comparison to the bones that I linked.
  9. Yes it is intended to show that. Here's the original sculpt(I believe) if you'd prefer. The nose, the eyes, the sharp points on the wolf shoulder ears and nose, the hair, every aspect of it nearly, just looks fudgy in comparison.
  10. I hope she is on the schedule after that.
  11. I've done this already actually and yes it makes the details pop out more when you can see actual shadows. http://i.imgur.com/FJpYnhb.jpg But the detail on that model does not seem like it can take this level of detail, the nose is smaller, the face just seems round and plump. It's not as bad as I think I believed it was before yesterday when I primed Trista, but I dunno it still seems a little fudgy to me. http://www.reapermini.com/graphics/gallery/4/IG_2702_3.jpg EDIT: Bones are so hard to cleanup too, ARRRGG!
  12. Will she ever make the transition to metal or is she going to remain bones only permanently?
  13. I believe the 'lack of detail' claims to be mostly a myth caused by the difficulty of photographing a bare Bones mini compared to a bare metal mini. ALL side-by-side test thus far have shown that there is very little if any real loss of detail on most figures, although, yes, some figures exist for which translation was not as successful. Can you provide links to any of these side-by-side tests? Maybe it is just that some have made the transition better than others, but some of them just seem really bad. And maybe it's just that the "pro" painters have avoided bones, but most of the bones paint jobs I see are just not great, which is why I wanted to make this thread. There's a lot of great examples here so far though.
  14. Hey forumites, I was hoping I could get your guys and gals' favorite Bones paint jobs, if you know of any spectacular ones I'd really like to see them. I just picked up two Trista the white wolf minis and I don't really feel encouraged to paint them because I haven't had much fun painting bones in the past and they've never came out well, so I'd like to see if others have done a better job with Bones than I have.
  15. Yeah that's working well and thanks for the link to the blending tutorial, always like to see more techniques.
  16. I'm going to try and paint something for this, I've been wanting to paint some Warhammer 40k stuff so this will be perfect reason to finally do so.
  17. Hello again, I'd like to get better at painting small cloaks and clothing, I've got a reaper lady mini who has a long head-dress and cloak and I'm having trouble getting good results from it. Question 1. How do you paint cloaks, thinning ratios, technique and photo examples if possible would be awesome. Question 2. How does one do layering or just super thin coats without getting concentrated amounts of paint in folds and cracks, this is a problem I've always had and it's led to me just avoiding this technique altogether, the paint ends up running down into folds where it all clumps together and then I have a bright line of that color sitting in the cracks.
  18. This very much interests me, I just bought two of the Trista bones minis off ebay. I really haven't liked the bones minis I've handled and painted, they just seem puffier and hard to paint well, but since that Trista mini is bones exclusive I have no choice. So I definitely look forward to your results.
  19. That's some excellent work!
  20. I think it's safe to say that Jen Haley paints better than most of the people here, myself especially, and yet she uses Spotters. So does any of this matter? Opinions opinions opinions. SPOTTER MASTER RACE!
  21. I've only ever seen people using the minis in tutorials and painting videos, the rounds are practically liner brushes.
  22. Reeeally, and here I thought the W&N S7 Mini was the brush people used, that's what I use lol.
  23. I don't think Series 33 is analogous to W&N Series 7 guys, I just got two S33's and two S323's and the 323's are identical to W&N S7 Minis, the Series 33's are more like W&N Series 7 rounds, not the mini lline.
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