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Grumpy Cave Bear

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Everything posted by Grumpy Cave Bear

  1. Seconded. I used it to translate the instructions and box text of some old resin kits and was amazed at how far automatic translation has come in just the last 10 years...
  2. Good idea. I’ll try it when I make a set for my Vallejo colors, and show the results when I finish
  3. Hmmm... Perhaps it’s a rising of undead? No, wait, it’s an exhumation of undead. Definitely.
  4. I built up some good karma with my local game shop(s) this week. I got Boba Fett as a gift and then decided I wanted more commanders and operatives for SW:Legion: I say “shops” plural, because my local shop had the Han, Chewie and Leia commanders, but not Veers or Palpatine, and their supplier didn’t have stock for them either, so no reserving them. Apparently Asmodee is having supply-chain issues, due to internal re-structuring, switching production to hard plastic on sprues, or Chinese quarantine affecting production — take your pick. I decided not to chance waiting several months just to find out I can’t get them anywhere at all, and went to a second game shop closer to my workplace, which luckily had the Imperial commanders in stock! This is kind of taking me back to the nostalgia of my grade school days and collecting the Kenner Star Wars action figures — only this time I paint them, and this time they won’t get buried and lost in the sandbox. ... I wonder if that Luke Skywalker action figure is still stuck 30 feet above the ground, in the crotch of a tree, in a park somewhere in eastern Montana... What an (un)lucky throw that was...
  5. It’s a poor substitute for the palette tool, but you should make yourself one of these: It’s a bunch of old business cards, cut up, painted and numbered with a swatch of each color in my paint box. This ring has all 50 of my Reaper HD colors — somewhere I have another with all the MSP triads I own, and I plan to make up another for my Vallejo paints, some rainy weekend. No more guessing — you can always find the paint color you want, know exactly what it looks like when dry, and know that it’s in your collection. And it’s portable! (If you do make one, also paint the edge of each swatch card. It makes finding a particular color easier.)
  6. I keep a word-processing file with the colors that I used to paint a model, listing what colors were used where, and a digital photo album of the models I painted. Many of those color lists got copied into my WIP threads on this forum. So, if I need to paint another figure in the same colors, or there’s some part I liked that I want to replicate on a different model else, or even if I left off on a model, and returned to it later, I could use the color list... ...Bah! For some reason, I can always already remember the recipes and color mixes I wrote down, but never write down the color recipes I’ll need later. But I long ago memorized Lester Burley’s wash mix: Make a “wet water” mix of 10:1 water to flow improver. Make a wash mix of 1:1 “wet water” to matte medium. Add a small amount of ink to wash mix, about 20 drops of black to an 8 oz bottle, or 40 drops for brown. I’ve mixed this up several times, and adjusted it to be thicker (more matte medium), or darker (more ink), or with unusual colors, as needed. I don’t really need it much any more, as I’ll mix custom washes in tiny batches on a wet palette now. It’s useful for huge figures or armies that need to look the same, though.
  7. I don’t actively hunt for OOP minis. But I like older hobby stuff, so if a bunch of vintage pieces that interest me show up at a swap meet or hobby shop at a good price, I’ll snatch them up.
  8. For RPGs with the kids, I tried using the old D&D Dungeon Tiles, and to a lessor extent Dwarven Forge tiles, but in general found them to be too much trouble to set up for an encounter, and sometimes too fiddly to play on. They looked cool on the table though. Now we use what I'd call "2.5-D" terrain - a dry-erase grid map, but with various key terrain elements like furniture, crates and chests, pillars, or elevated areas, all represented with 3-D miniatures or blocks (or even papercrafted items). For war games, I just can't imagine NOT using 3-D terrain, as line-of-sight is so important to game play.
  9. You have given me the sads. I have a hefty handful of Reaper’s Halloween and Christmas mini’s awaiting a coat of paint.
  10. I guess I’ve underestimated two things: How much Pokémon has pervaded pop culture, and the appeal of Ryan Reynolds!
  11. Mine too! Let’s say they’re about 19 cm (7.5 in) tall in a standing pose, though they can be reposed a bit taller or shorter. I don’t have a Sir Forscale for a size comparison, but here’s a Bones skelly being apprehended by some guy: It’s 1/48th scale, the same scale as Bandai’s AT-ST model, but designed more for handling than display, and with much simpler pose-ability. (That’s a dry fit assembly in the picture, by the way.) Just all kinds of awesome!
  12. Sorry, no offense meant. Just hold the hot, softened items together until they cool and harden into a shape that fits together. You shouldn’t have to force them fit while hot. Then you should be able to take them apart and dry fit them together without problem, because you’ve adjusted their shape. Glue later. It might even reduce the stress marks you made from forcing it the first time, because the plastic has a chance to relax. No guarantee, though.
  13. This arrived from The River yesterday: 3 Star Wars: Legion AT-ST chicken walkers. With a “buy 2, get 1 free” offer on top of the usual discount, it was just too good to pass up! (Yeah, I know that an 800-point army in Legion can only really afford to bring at most two of these to the table... but I have plans for them, after my current project.)
  14. You don’t need boiling water or a big pot. I use a hot water dispenser and an oversized coffee cup. I’ve also used a blowdryer to heat and soften the pieces. I just noticed this is a Bones Black figure. Some other person will have to say if this material responds to heating the same way as the earlier Bones material does. Superglue, also known as CA glue. You also can use a small amount of all-purpose contact adhesive (the kind that smell bad and say “Caution: Flammable”).
  15. Can you do returns? Having seen all three, I can say that only Detective Pikachu is any good, and that’s only if you’re already a Pokémon fan. Dark Tower is sure to disappoint any fan of the Stephen King book series (I am not), as it elides most everything but the beginning and end, and Suicide Squad is just a hot mess. (Unless you’re talking about the animated film, Suicide Squad: Hell to Pay!)
  16. I’d try heating up the pieces in steaming, near-boiling hot water until they are soft, then fit them together. If you can hold them together until they cool normally, they should keep their fit forever. (Wear an oven mitten, don’t be a hero.) I have done this on some of the larger regular Bones minis to get a perfect fit, when they were warped. If that still doesn’t work, then it’s time to start trimming that neck peg.
  17. Um... well... hmm... wait... let’s see... err... I’m thinking... um... hmm... No.
  18. For figure gap filling and sculpting details, I use Tamiya Epoxy Putty. (I have a goodish amount of both the smooth and quick type.) For bases/terrain, I’m using up my large supply of Super Sculpey polymer clay that I bought in a clearance sale. I sculpt and bake that separately, then glue on the plastic bits and bases after.
  19. I remember filling in the numbers on my dice with white-out correction fluid, and carefully rubbing the excess off before it dried. It was pretty durable... That was back in the late 80’s, and some of them still have the white-out markings today.
  20. I aim for a happy medium, which looks clean, without a lot of work. I spend maybe 3 hours on a human-sized mini, or something I can complete in an evening. I try to do as much basic work with an airbrush as I can to save time: base-coating, color blends on large surfaces, varnishing. I’ll layer to do color blends with a brush, but rarely more than 3 shades. And I overly depend on washes and dry brushing to do my shading and highlight for me. When I paint an army or squad, I’ll bump the quality down just a bit from single piece mini, and assembly-line paint them to reduce time spent. That can cut maybe an hour from each mini. I often end up painting multiples — one for myself, one for someone else. As often as not, I’ll paint them different, theirs to their tastes, mine to my own. In the rare case I paint multiples for myself, I tend to paint the minis as stock, without conversions. Since constant creativity is hard work, once I pick a color scheme, I tend to go with it for every mini. I’m a former college instructor. I’ll happily teach anything I know to anyone who cares to listen! I did a painting session at work to help a coworker learn the basics of mini painting. Just setting up a wet palette with paint from dropper bottles taught him something, before I even started.
  21. This is a ditty I made up for my daughter, when she was just a wee little girl of 5 years (she’s now a college senior): It’s the butterfly mermaid dog! Yes, the butterfly mermaid dog! It has butterfly wings, And a mermaid’s tail, It’s the butterfly mermaid dog! There were even some preliminary plans to write a children’s book about it. I will edit this post, if I somehow manage to find the sketch I made of it. The odds of finding it again are very low, though. Perhaps I have found my next figure customization...
  22. Hoo-boy... This comes up just as I’ve been thinking about picking a faction for Age of Sigmar, since my co-workers are getting into AOS and AoS:Warcry. I’ve been eyeing the Gloomspite Gitz, ‘cause goblins are just so fun to paint, and come with so many varied and entertaining sculpts, you could never get tired of them! So if I picked a new faction/race to go with forever and ever, it would be goblins... ...But if you go by what I’ve already bought and collected the most of any single faction, then it would have to be... the Empire! Rows upon rows of Stormtroopers, ready to serve under Emperor Palpatine and Lord Vader in crushing those Rebel scum! Yeah. Always go with the mercenary factions. They’ll hire anybody!
  23. Not for gaming minis, no. There was one approximately 1/8 scale face mold that I once purchased on a lark, but the papier-mâché-like molding material that came with it wasn’t quite up to casting even the simple detail that the mold had...
  24. For me, it wasn’t the paint job, but the removal that failed. I tried priming a figure from the first Bones Kickstarter, and the primer didn’t dry and stayed tacky. So, into the paint stripper the figure went — the thing is, it was the wrong type. A few short minutes in acetone left it slimy, grossly oversized, and lacking in any surface detail. What was I thinking?
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