Angorak

I wasn't just speaking to Dino minis in plastic i was speaking to Bones in general. I actually haven't bought any Reaper in over a year and have painted nary a one in as much a time. They just don't fit into the TTG's I play right now.

Bones... bendy plastic minis.....bleh. I'll keep my addiction to metal miniatures and when everyone stops producing them I quess I've have to go to rehab cuz I'm not interested. Sorry Reaper...you make some good mini's but if they are made in that plastic then you've lost me.

As much as I like the peeps on Reaper forums I really think that going on more broadly visited sites such as Frothers or CMoN and recounting your experience with the "Evil Empire" would perhaps be to more effect. I plainly won't tolerate poor customer service after I have spent my coin especially from an obvious Cromag CSR. But then again I haven't played any evil empire games since Battlefleet Gothic.

Nice figures on Tinman..but the thoat isn't anything like I pictured them...tail too short and neck too long,

There is already a line of mini's out there that are based on ERB's Martian books....green, red martians and also thoats and great white apes. Not sure if there are zitidars or calots though. Not sure if they are licensed though with ERB's estate. Found it...It's Bronze Age Miniatures. The listings are not called what you would think but you can see pics of what would be recognized as being from Barsoom...:)

For me the most useful aspect of LGS is the ability to fill in rough parts of a casting using it and a wet brush. Turns cloaks and robes that would require a fair bit of filing or sanding into smooth surface easily. Vallejo makes a comparable product in thier water-soluble plastic putty.

Played in two weekend betas and loved it. For me probably Jedi Sage and Smuggler on one server and Sith Marauder and Bounty Hunter on another. But I'm so afflicted with altiholism that no doubt I'll have at least one of each basic class toon from each faction eventually. i also played SWG and loved it up to the travesty of the CU and NGE.

Mighty Fine MG..:)

I love the FW stuff. And a great job painting this SK...go Ultramarines..:)

I've never been a fan of bases that take almost as long as the darn mini to complete for models that are destined for the table top so I keep them simple.

Thanks SK :) I just wish I could get the photo fu right cuz these really don't do my brushwork justice. I'm saving up for a real camera and light box set up so eventually I'l get it right...lol

Again I choose to stay with the normal colors with minor variations. I definately need a better camera and photo setup. These images fail to capture all the shading and highlights.

Correct Haldir. Gorilla Glue contians an additive that is rubberish in nature allowing the bond to absorb a certain amount of stress. I have switched to using it exclusively in recent months.

I decided to go with the normal scheme with minor variations.

I would add to this that using an old toothbrush and some dishsoap under some warm water is even better especially on plastic or resin minis. And if you have handled the mini for a time even oil off your fingers can effect things. Doh...slow typing...lol

I seriously doubt you will find a giant medusa in the 28mm range scale. Since Medusa was a human before she was changed due to her bragging about her beauty being greater than even Aphrodite's the only part of her that might be larger than normal would be the lower torso of the snake. I would google 54mm scale Medusa and see what if anything turns up.

I used to be opposed to the dip but have relaxed my opposition to it. After starting a 100pt Cygnar force i came to the realization that dipping the rank and file troops would speed the whole process up considerably. I still hold the line on characters, solos and Warjacks. A big plus for the dip is the rock hard protective coating it adds..that there is a big plus for me. Even after the dip I go over the model with some highlights and clean up but the net result is still a lot faster.

Maybe you just need to bite the bullet and use the Testor's Model Master paint.

The milliput is mixed and then made into a sort of slurry to cover over imperfections in the cast such as pits or cracks. Greenstuff is not water solulable and will not behave the same way.

I'm going with ATM's thought that the agitator is blocking the aperature. The 45' advice will probably slove the majority of it.

Correct..Vaitalla

I'm not a fan of NMM having had to do so much of it on commision pieces. I think Demi-metallics can provide a equally striking result. That being said I think that for a first foray into NMM it's an incredible effort. And like you said it's definately Non-Cryxian...:)

I LIKE IT.. This is one jack that I have yet to add to my Cygnar but it's definately on my list.

I could be wrong but I think a site called Brushthralls has a info post on using gesso. I have on occasion used both white and black gesso as a primer. The best advice i can give is that you really should wait at least 12hrs after primering to start the real task of painting. Gesso draws up in the drying process so don't be concerned too much about obscuring detail in the application.

Wow... I'm very impressed by the manner your skills have increased by leaps and bounds over the time I have watched you on these forums. I love your basework..something that I personally hate spending any time on...lol Great job overall....