Angorak

Where's Thuvia?

The flip lids are easy enough to clean out so that not being able to close them should never be an issue. Since I always use a wet pallette and transfer paint to the said pallette drying is a non-issue...bottle open time is minimal. Maybe it's just me but I despise dropper bottles...clogging/splitting at the tip/the nozzle popping out with just a little too much squeeze pressure.

More accurately the P3 are made by the same company that produces the Foundry System. And they are more like the Faoundry than the old Citadel pots. I use the P3 almost exclusively now the Propaints have been discontinued. And I like the metals unlike Haldir..:P..:)

Those look like the old Grenadier Star Frontier ships.

Sunny but cold here in Idaho. I actually wish we would get some of the snow we used to get...now it just gets gray and dreary for most of the winter....bleh. I used to like walking out in a big fluffy flake snow fall late at night when it was so serene and quiet.

Maybe that they are developed in a basecoat, shade, highlight triad?

Lol, then why are you here posting!~ Sounds like you should be off painting. hehe...merely answering a concern...painting is something I do to relax and I'm plenty relaxed right now...LOL bye

Having used just about every color they produce I can say that I have had no troubles at all.

I guess it's a good thing that a single pot of paint goes a long way then.:)

As I have already posted here, the decision to "change" to another bottle or even an MSP dropper bottle was not practical. It means scrapping and retooling everything from racks and blisters on down to the capping machine and then going through a long and impractical process of "reeducation" and re-branding. This is further compounded by everyone's natural aversion to change. It was discussed at great length. bye Well I guess I just didn't see the other thread entry. Sorry. It really is only a loss to those of us who liked the reformulated Pro's but like I said before it's not too terrible a setback since I'm already transitioning to P3's bye

I'm curious if you didn't like RMS paints in general, or if it was a problem with particular colors. I have a few RMS colors that are grainy or that don't hold together too well, but most of them seem very good to this amateur. Well Ed if you refer to my reply to Serenity you will see one reason why I chose to discontinue using RMS. As far as being "polar opposites" that might indeed be but I had very good results with ProPaints as opposed to RMS. The Vallejo's will always be a part of my palette because I also do military modeling and they are good for that. No guesswork in getting that Dunkelgrau as close as possible. Why isn't packaging the Pro's in dropper bottles like the RMS are already in being looked at (if it isn't) instead of scrapping the whole line?

I'm curious if you didn't like RMS paints in general, or if it was a problem with particular colors. I have a few RMS colors that are grainy or that don't hold together too well, but most of them seem very good to this amateur. I was all gung ho about the RMS when I first had heard that they were coming out. I, in fact, actually purchased the whole first set release. After using them however I met with disappointment but continued to buy select colors from the next sets. I experienced grainy, clumpy and chalky symptoms that others on the forum have described. I guess it was the initial inconsistancy that turned me off and has kept me leery of using them again. When my local game store recieved the promo pack of the reformulated ProPaints I was given them to try and loved them. But now hearing that that are going away saddens me as I will have to shift again to another paint line. Sorry Reaper.... RMS just doesnt do it for me. I'm not going to rebuy the whole collection of RMS if it turns out that the release I had purchased was experiencing production problems or bad formulations.

This is truly sad since the new ProPaints replaced the vast majority of the Master Series I chose the discontinue using..oh well. Guess it makes the decision to focus on P3 and vallejo model colors all that much easier.

Well...if you like the mini but feel you could do a better job then certainly simple green it and repaint it...why not? If you're like me if I repaint a new version of the one I painted long ago, and it's a higher quality job, the old one gets tossed in a box of junk.

Vallejo Model Colors are the way to go on WWII uniforms. Or if you can find them the Humbrol colors.

Niether of these are meant to be adhesives. They will not create a secure bond if that is what you are thinking. They are not like the 5minute 2 part epoxies that are adhesives. They are great for sculpting terrain and bases and filling gaps in models though, kinda like milliput. Well at least magic Sculpt is. Haven't any experience with the Smooth product.

The only tip I can give is to use Isopropyl Alchohol to apply them. They remain workable till you seal the model which is very nice for rust or patinas. I use the Vallejo's myself.

Looks to be slightly lighter than aged bone but thats pretty close.

Thinning just with water can yeild good or bad results. If you live in an area that has hard water you might get splotchy results so you might want to see if thats the problem. I never use tap water but only distilled water you can buy at just about any grocery or drug store. And adding a flow improver is a godsend. I use a mix of 25% Flow Improver 25% SloDri and 50% distilled water.

My first recommendation is ditch the sponge and use white paper towels. The sponge will get nasty and start to break up and paper towels will be cheaper. I fold up 4 or 5 towels and it holds enough water to last for quite awhile. I also use the baking or parchment paper and one sheet lasts me a good while so i't probably the paper you have chosen to use. The paper supplied with wet pallettes are designed to work with the heavier bodied artist's acrylics.

They were made by the old Grenadier Miniatures Company...I had em all....

It's difficult to completely rid the file of metal but what I do is use a dremel and a wire wheel bit to remove what I can.

I only have two words for Armory Primers...total crap.... ok just a few more words....inconsistent in properties... Duplicolor all the way...I use to use Tamiya but the cost is unjustifiable for the quality and quantity.

Depending on the email service you use there is a way to verify the sender without having to click or even hover over any link embedded in the mail. Look for the means to display full header. In yahoo mail its a drop down menu in the actions tab. doing so will display the real sender by listing a return path. I get these kinds of emails on a daily basis...either ones saying that my account is trying to be sold or has engaged in RMT or numerous invites to a Catacylsm beta...LOL

Depending on whether you live in an area that has "hard" water. I don't but I choose to add distilled water to thin and a few drops of flow improver never hurts.