hosercanadian

Since I have so carefully documented my Dr. Doom conversion I thought I would track my Iron Man conversion. To start with, Afterburn scales very well with truescale 28mm, again using Deano from Hasslefree Miniatures to scale. To start the conversion I removed the fin on top of his helmet. I carefully retraced the panel design and ensured the lines matched. After that, I guess it's on to painting. Oh, not much of a conversion, more of a joke. But as I paint him up I will keep track of it here.

Got the chain done and the front edges of his cape. I guess waiting for the cable guy is good after all...a day free to work on a miniature. Once I add his brooches he should be done. I can't decide if his right foot is miscast (as I first suspected) as I keep looking at it and see all the details.

Looking nice, and I like the story.

The bottle is a fairly simple conversion. Find a squarish bead that matches the shape of the lower body then attach a cone of greenstuff to the top and seal the hole on the bottom. Once cured, cut the top flat. To really sell the scene you could make some garbage bags too. Fairly simple project and I have a few exampleso n my blog.

Thanks for all the positive feedback. The hood cured enough for me to move onto the sides. I also fixed the transition from top to peak so the profile is exactly how I want it. Since taking the pics I cleaned up a couple of the marks seen in these pictures. I have never done stage by stage pics while converting or sculpting before and I see it as a huge benefit. Nothing like seeing the figure at 12" to see your mistakes. Once fully cured, I will move onto the collar and brooches. A managed to get a post up with some more thoughts on this project on my blog plus a few other things I have been working on, if you are interested.

I managed to do a bit more sculpting on Dr Doom this morning. I find working on hoods to be difficult except with a dismembered head, so I decided to work in stages. The big triangular gaps will have greenstuff laid over once it is cured. I like the profile, and am very happy with the droopy pointy hood as it matches most of the artwork. I will go back and make it a smoother transition from top to back with the next stage too. Rather than folding it flat against the hood, I wanted it to stand out like it is supposed to be peaked. I did smooth out the rough spots with blade and file on the cape. I decided against making the edges tattered. Although wearing a cape in battle would result in tears and fraying, he is the dictator of a 2nd world nation...I am sure he has at least three staff whose livelihood (and lives) are based on giving him a fresh cloak whenever his becomes damaged or dirty.

So I have dove into the first conversion for my super hero project, turning Dr Dread into his muse: Dr. Doom. If you haven't checked this guy out, he scales very well with 28mm truescale, but would be small compared to some of the more heroic ranges out there. I have included a comparison pic with a Hasslefree mini. Today saw the basic cape added. I have some clean up to do once it cures. I tried to make his cape billow in the same general way the wind has moved his tabard, I think I did capture it. Comments appreciated, updates to come as I manage to find time to post it. More rambling about this project on my blog.

Very nicely done clothing.

I opted to make my own dental plaster. I use 1 part concrete powder to 4 parts plaster. I have used a few plasters but I find the Michael's brand he best. It isn't immune from chipping but it is surprisingly strong.

I saw a picture of a guy in make up to look like @$$face. I didn't know AMC was looking at that series, I know Constantine did an episode similar to storyline.

The scale of the car is 1:43. That particular car is from Walmart, most of my other cars I had to buy ad hoc from manufacturers. I recommend looking it up, it scales pretty good. She will be used in a game of my own design. I developed a dungeon crawl game that worked pretty well and am trying it out as a tabletop game.

Found a bit of spare time to quickly hammer out my take on Silver Sable. I went with a comic style contrast on her and used some lessons on highlighting dark skin I learned doing a miniature over a few months until I got it right. As I want to make her psychic (unlike Silver Sable), I don't think I will do pupils. I also went for a bit lighter skin around the eyes than I normally do to make it seem more "glowy". Anyhow, comments appreciated even though it is just a speed paint. More pictures and rambling on my blog.

This year, my ongoing project is superhero and comic themed. So far I have completed the undead outlaw as my version of the Saint of Killers from Preacher. For the diehard fans of that series, yes I know he isn't undead and he certainly didn't have a skull for a face, but I think this is still a fitting mini for him. For those not familiar, here is a link to a picture that pretty much sums him up: http://i41.tinypic.com/69qj54.jpg I was going for both faded and dusty with his clothing and I think I have captured it pretty well in both respects. Waiting on me to practice my fine detailing more is Nick Fury. I will be doing a SHIELD logo on his itty bitty shoulder.

I like the police vehicle. How was that to assemble?

Great looking stuff there. I really like the bugbear conversions and the giant spider. Nice choice on keeping the oytugh shiny.

More of the superhero sculpts and more variety. With the new plethora of hero movies coming out I see Insect Guy, Blondie (god of great hair), Commissioned National Military Hero, Eagle (the mechanical flying suit), Eye Guy (a shooty type guy), and Galaxy Guy (the villain) are the first list that comes to mind to finish a franchise movie coming out soon. Even random assortment of guys and gals in spandex would work for conversions.

Closest experience I had was an epoxy glue I used years ago that dried clear and smooshy lik silicone. When I painted that I used an enamel spray to prime and it painted exactly the same as my other figs after that.

I don't even know where to start. You capturd the highlights so well and with angle of light and movement it actually seems in motion just looking at it. Excellent work.

I have not been checking the comments on Kickstarter or this thread until recently and I am surprised at the negativity. I will admit there are figures that I didn't care for in the last Kickstarter and a few of the new ones don't strike my fancy. I see no reason to complain...the sum total investment in those particular figures is about the price of a coffee. Now, if it was a complaint on the massive multiheaded herald of doom, that may be different. Bryan, and all of Reaper, keep up the good work, thanks for your professionalism, and fast forward to September already.

That is an amazing scene you hav depicted here. I like how you have shadows from all angles without obscuring details.

Saturate the foam with water no mater which plaster you use. Another option to make it more hollow is to find a cheap cup that will nest inside. Pour the layer most of the way in and push the cup into the mold. Cheaper plaster won't damage it as much but will be more brittle and impossible to remove. If you mix plaster and cement it may just drop out when finished (assuming the mold is a simple shape with no jutting out points on the horizontal plane.

I really like the weathering you did on the shield. Great overall.

Another option to assemble is to "weld" with a soldering iron. A couple of "spot welds" to secure and crude work inside/smooth work outside. Greenstuff and files can cover a multitude of sins. A bit of fumes but less than glue and almost free.

For round I suggest a couple of things. First, compass cutter is your friend. Second, drill a centre hole and then put a pin through. Spin it along the pin and gently file with an nail file (disposable ones are cheap and excellent fine grit sanders). Third (I know, I lied and said a couple) try building it in layers. Round is easier with thin plastic, do a series of thin discs the same size and then glue together with a styrene cement and file the finished circle smooth. The final bit (using a heat gun) is to cut an edge in thin styrene. Measure a strip as long as the circumference (that's the outside distance - look it up for an easy formula) and as wide as the height. Gently heat and bend it around for a nice finished look.

I'm checking out your blog, I was hoping a little less diy as I'm hoping to start the game before Christmas time. BTW love what you did with the cars! Each building takes only a couple hours of work, not including drying time. You can also time save and do multiple at the same time. For papercraft terrain it works on card too. There are a few companies that do bulkheads and buttresses to reinforce.