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Everything posted by hosercanadian

  1. Thanks for the advice, it took only one wash to get the right effect. I was dreading being stuck with a mini I would need to strip to redo the face. He even looks good facing down opposition.
  2. After a very hectic couple of months I have had a chance to sit down at my hobby bench again. The model pictured was left unfinished before the leave of absence from painting and I am hoping for some feedback on the best way forward. The skull is my disappointment. A few errant brush strokes with armour washes and a bit too much white in touch-ups and viola. If you compare his ribs, I was intending a white set of bones but note Scooby Doo white. Any suggestions? I am thinking of a heavy chestnut wash followed by a darker brown wash for the deeper recesses. As proof I can do good bone colour reference the other gribblies painted concurrently (sorry not Reaper minis). Thanks.
  3. Amazing work. I have seen all the miniatures before but was having trouble identifying them separately they are so similarily painted.
  4. Very nice dappling on the wings. It looks very much like taut skin.
  5. On the Hirst Site they recommend against using it. I tried using it years ago as a sheath for castle walls and it was terrible. I recognozie now the walls were probably too smooth for it to stick. Even dragons teeth (the obstacle not the wyrm dental implements) warped and cracked when made from plaster of paris. I haven't tried molds with it except to cast limbs or masks helping visual artist friends. Those needed a fabric to provide structure.
  6. I have a "Not Maj Kusinagi" that arrived in the mail a short while ago. I might see if I can find a "Not Bateau" for a diorama. Anybody know where I can find a "Not Tachicoma"? I would prefer a non-self-aware model if available.
  7. I would recommend looking at uniform pictures in the RCMP Museum or the regulation manuals. The colour midnight blue is much like the blues and greens of CommonWealth military dress uniforms: so dark it looks like black. They did change to black at a later date, but of all the uniforms I have seen in museums I would tell you the pants were black (midnite blue) ;-) The NWMP and RCMP have never had regional differences. From inception the organization has been centrally administered. Equipment shortfalls and supply issue have always been an issue, so if you look at black and white photos you can sometimes tell a few had different gloves (likely brown instead of black) and occasionally different boots. It sounds like you have done some research already. An exhibit that was touring and may have pictures you haven't seen was fron the University of Alberta with several artifacts from Sir Sam Steele's personal collection. Many useful pictures for this project and a few silly stories.
  8. The stick is a pace stick. It goes to military tradition that it is used on parade by a senior non-commissioned officer. The practical use was to measure placement as all regulations are based on x paces form adjacent formation, x paces from dias, etc. It has remained as a mark of authority. In the period in question (in fact right up to the recent past) it was also useful to keep troops in line if needed. Make the guy with the pace stick the most senior or second most senior for your NWMP detachment and you can't go wrong.
  9. I like how you made each dragon unique. Besides colour choices the highlighting styles and coloration patterns evoke two very distinct creatures.
  10. Very nice work. I especially like the highlighting on the cloak folds and the detailed work on the feathers. I always have trouble with feathers, any tips?
  11. Great progress and I must say the garter snake and coral snake are my favorites. The only tips I would suggest is two-fold based on how you want the scales to look. First, try dry-brushing with a very dark grey over just the black scales. It will make the edges stand out. Second, try doing a wash with a dark brown or grey over the black areas. This will make the edges blacker. DON'T try both on the same model. The first suggestion will make the edges look worn while the second option will make the scales look worn near the inside edge. I have seen both types of colouring on reptiles, so it is a matter of personal choice. "Snakes! Why did it have to be snakes?" - Indian Jones
  12. I also have a new model to show. Not quite finished, I think if shows the experiments I did with photography. I tried placing the light source closer and further away and taking pics from above and below. Overall, I am happy with the photography tips. Astrid here will get a touch-up on her armour washes and flocking and her base cleaned up a bit too. Any other comments/suggestions for this classic rock gal?
  13. Doug Sundseth, thanks for the photography tips, I think it really improved my pictures. Here is a re-take of Harley Brimstone that better shows off the failed ambient light effect.
  14. Great set of minis, looks like a lot of fun to paint. Is there a reason you went blue instead of black for the pants? I think this is appropriate: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Wu4krJJkkIs
  15. Amazing work. I like how you made the model so naturally change from a set of dry bones to a slimy skeleton.
  16. I think you used just the right amount of ink. The armour looks a bit faded and worn like I would expect for orcs. The wash you used for the muscles was very well done too. The only recommendation I would make is to try the shaping technique before painting. The models look great except for the bent sword and corner fighting spear.
  17. Thanks for all the feedback. I try to limit the colours to "realistic" when I can. It leaves for a boring palette sometimes. Actually I was looking for the patchy effect. I do a gradual build up to white unless I intend it to look bright. I still am fine-tuning it to get fabric to look textured and off-white. Considering that was my intent, was it effective? Photography suggestions: It looks like your camera is mostly seeing a white background (which is quite bright relative to the miniature) and exposing to get that at about 20% gray. This is expected behavior, btw. If you use a darker background (medium gray works well), you'll get a better exposure on the figures. Your white balance is quite off (you're getting a strong magenta cast to the photos). My best guess for that is that the camera is set for fluorescent lights and you're shooting either under incandescents or daylight-balanced lights. If you set your white balance to match your lights, you'll get a better color. You're using a single light to camera left. From the sharp edges to the shadows, I suspect it'g back a ways from the figure. Recommendations: Use two lights, one from either side of the figure (make sure you're using the same sort of bulbs). Also, move the lights (or light if you have only the one) around more to the front of the figure and push it in until it's just barely outside the field of the shot. This will give you a softer light and more light on the front where you want it. HTH Thanks for the useful tips. I haven't had any advice on photography before. I might need to grab my manual to figure out what button does what to make those changes. I actually meant I am technically impaired and couldn't make them display on the forum posts.
  18. Very well done all around. I personally really like the Halfling and the Gnome priest. The bard just oozes confidence and devil may care attitude. The pink hair is a bit striking, but very well suited with the palette.
  19. Harley Brimstone. I had no idea this model existed until I stumbled across him in the store. Such a characterful model. I think this is the "How my 1st level fighter really looks" picture. I tried doing some ambient light effects and failed miserably. Any tips?
  20. Brother Roberto. This is the best priest sculpt I have come across period. Uploading this picture I see I need to do some touch-ups.
  21. Marius Burrowell, the Gnome thief. I love the character of this figure and he screamed out for bright colours.
  22. I was having trouble getting the pics to display properly, so a few posts will show each one: Anirion, Wood Elf Mage. This is actually the Bones mini.
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