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hosercanadian

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Everything posted by hosercanadian

  1. If you want to add the year, cheat. Make a mold and cast a blank. Sculpt on the year, make a mold of that one. Next year cast another blank, add the year...creatively edit a WIP forum entry to amuse the newbies and show off the next version.
  2. I know it has been said numerous times, but more noncombatant townsfolk, farmers, etc. Most miniature games out there require civilians (or a token) for at least one scenario and don't make their own. Most RPGs have circumstances where there are noncombatants. And personally, I have felt the pain of "I kill the guy with the sword" "that is an unarmed hostage" "I thought the guy with the axe was he hostage". With the spoilers hopefully this will mean more of those folks. And the dressing to go with them: market stalls, wagons, livestock, professionals like lamp lighters, town crier, merchant, carpenter, labourer (to name a few not already covered in Bones).
  3. The blue and yellow is a reference to the Marvel comic book character Wolverine.
  4. Fantastic work as always. I am inspired to do something similar as I was using terrain as a backdrop for some pics, this is a far more aesthetically pleasing option.
  5. Excellen work overall. The natural looking mottlig and patterns is great. My only critique is that the wolverine needs more yellow and blue.
  6. The only thing this is missing is Afterburner by Reaper as the hero facing them.
  7. Ogres always need more layers...like an onion. Looks great.
  8. Wow that is an over-engineered way to do it. I used thin card to break the curcuit with the wires wrapped around the battery. I made the bottom wire stick out a tiny bit so you completed the circuit (turned it on) by putting it down flat. I agree that drilling before anything else is the best thing to do. I also experimented with breaking the housing on the LED. By making it flat the light shone upwards more and diffused better.
  9. I am going to shamelessly steal the wingspot idea for some of my dragons.
  10. Leave this one as is, it looks great. I agree the paint will finish it. The other option is to turn the base into part of the mini. Paint or attach bits to make it look like a pillar or grave marker. Add some ominous runes maybe. As your next light up project: if you feel ambitious, the Reaper bases are big enough to hold a flat "watch" battery. With some fiddling around you can make a light up model on a regular base. but...be warned it will likely take more time than painting the model. I bought a bunch of LEDs with the intention of having glowing balls of fire...stopped after one because I found if fiddly.
  11. I managed to find a bit of brush time and did these guys up just in time for my regular RPG session. Nothing too fancy, and I did rush the stitch golems a bit. I had fun with the flesh golem and making him look cobbled together from spare parts a bit. The Iron Golem OSL I would like some advice on. I got a look I am happy with on the head, but nowhere else. Since it is for tabletop I will settle for now but I would like some feedback to improve. Thanks.
  12. Well the answer to all your questions is wet-blending and very thin coats that leave transparency. I start all my pale flesh as a cinnamon brown. From there I blend that with white. I put on very thin coats that are almost a glaze. After it is completely dry I add in the final paleness (again just blends of the same white and brown just with more white). The fact that the shadows are subtle is achieved by covering the recesses as well and then only focusing on raised areas for the final lightest coats. My red hair method is the same as skin, just with cinamon brown and dark red as the mid coat and the final red is bright red with a bit of cinammon brown. Except for the metal weapons and armour everything is the same brown base, the gold belt included. The contrast I find is more due to the similar base tones than stark differences: the small changes are more noticeable with the subtle transition.
  13. So I have managed to throw some paint around and have a new Reaper Mini to show off. Sadly, with the forum rules I have only one picture as she has some naughty bits showing from the other angles. Visit my blog for more pics: https://hosercanadian.wordpress.com/2017/06/10/fresh-melons/
  14. I really like the edging. It captures the age of what must be an ancient wurm.
  15. If it helps, I am not painting my dragons "canon" colours. Mine will be a brown-khaki dragon. In a game of DnD on the weekend he was a green dragon (I know heresy using an unpainted model). Fortunately the party fled so the dragon still guards the major river connecting city states (ie it will make a second appearance).
  16. My Bones arrived today and all I have to say is thank Cthulu for Bonesium. My box looked like it had been drop-kicked across a room then hit with a bat. The Kickstarter boxes are destroyed but the only damage was detaching one sword from the weapon sprue and a bit of bending on another weapon. Metal or hard plastic I would have needed a drink or two before opening it.
  17. If you don't mind beveling the edges of the piano lid, you could have it glued on the side at a slight angle to be open. I agree it is too thick, maybe try sanding it thinner or use thinner MDF. Either way, be ready for toxic dust.
  18. Excellent conversion on the half-orc. I really like how you did the rapier.
  19. Amazing non-metal metal on those. I really like how they seem to share the same light source in terms of point of glare and shine.
  20. where did you get the wee baernes? I haven't seen the baby fish monsters before...
  21. And avoid having a smoke in the painting room while you wait...
  22. Really nice. I like the wolverines transitions and the Peryton is overall great.
  23. Very good shading for just starting out. The muted tones are sometimes tough to make stand out but you do some nice blending without the chaulkiness that sometimes results when lightening some of the more neutral colours.
  24. Wow amazing work. The foliage provides an excellent way to bring the whole piece together. Unity or cohesion or whatever the fancy artist term is.
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