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hosercanadian

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Posts posted by hosercanadian

  1. I know it has been said numerous times, but more noncombatant townsfolk, farmers, etc.

     

    Most miniature games out there require civilians (or a token) for at least one scenario and don't make their own.

     

    Most RPGs have circumstances where there are noncombatants.  And personally, I have felt the pain of "I kill the guy with the sword" "that is an unarmed hostage" "I thought the guy with the axe was he hostage".

     

    With the spoilers hopefully this will mean more of those folks.  And the dressing to go with them: market stalls, wagons, livestock, professionals like lamp lighters, town crier, merchant, carpenter, labourer (to name a few not already covered in Bones).

    • Like 9
  2. Wow that is an over-engineered way to do it.

     

    I used thin card to break the curcuit with the wires wrapped around the battery.  I made the bottom wire stick out a tiny bit so you completed the circuit (turned it on) by putting it down flat.

     

    I agree that drilling before anything else is the best thing to do.  I also experimented with breaking the housing on the LED. By making it flat the light shone upwards more and diffused better.

    • Like 1
  3. Leave this one as is, it looks great.  I agree the paint will finish it.  The other option is to turn the base into part of the mini.  Paint or attach bits to make it look like a  pillar or grave marker.  Add some ominous runes maybe.

     

    As your next light up project: if you feel ambitious, the Reaper bases are big enough to hold a flat "watch" battery.  With some fiddling around you can make a light up model on a regular base.

     

    but...be warned it will likely take more time than painting the model.  I bought a bunch of LEDs with the intention of having glowing balls of fire...stopped after one because I found if fiddly.

  4. Well the answer to all your questions is wet-blending and very thin coats that leave transparency.

     

    I start all my pale flesh as a cinnamon brown.  From there I blend that with white.  I put on very thin coats that are almost a glaze.  After it is completely dry I add in the final paleness (again just blends of the same white and brown just with more white).  The fact that the shadows are subtle is achieved by covering the recesses as well and then only focusing on raised areas for the final lightest coats.

     

    My red hair method is the same as skin, just with cinamon brown and dark red as the mid coat and the final red is bright red with a bit of cinammon brown.

     

    Except for the metal weapons and armour everything is the same brown base, the gold belt included.  The contrast I find is more due to the similar base tones than stark differences: the small changes are more noticeable with the subtle transition.

    • Like 1
  5. If it helps, I am not painting my dragons "canon" colours.  Mine will be a brown-khaki dragon.

     

    In a game of DnD on the weekend he was a green dragon (I know heresy using an unpainted model).  Fortunately the party fled so the dragon still guards the major river connecting city states (ie it will make a second appearance).

    • Like 4
  6. My Bones arrived today and all I have to say is thank Cthulu for Bonesium.

     

    My box looked like it had been drop-kicked across a room then hit with a bat.

     

    The Kickstarter boxes are destroyed but the only damage was detaching one sword from the weapon sprue and a bit of bending on another weapon.  Metal or hard plastic I would have needed a drink or two before opening it.

    • Like 17
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