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Everything posted by hosercanadian

  1. If you feel like challenging yourself maybe OSL on the bases...but that only works well on the wizard.
  2. I really like the dwarf with the book, do you have a product number for that one or is it a non-Reaper?
  3. Something I haven't seen any comments on yet, is the stone debris. If she is shedding the stone like a skin, shouldn't there me more of it around her? Or was that your plan after the painting and basing was done?
  4. I personally enjoy blending and mixing colors and I have to say you have a nice natural tone going here.
  5. As with the comments above the gear time can vary. My commentary follows based on the type. When familiar with your rig, it can be donned very quickly. Of the pattern I am most familiar with, it took me about 30 seconds to put-on/take-off. I didn't put it on the "proper" way, I kept most of the straps done on one side and pulled it over/on and tightened it quickly. It is tricks like that for each type that matter. That was the more complicated armour, the "simpler" armour took at least 2 minutes as it had zippers and other fiddly straps you could not leave done up. To echo above, if you are given new armour for the first time and told to figure it out, expect 10 minutes and comical moments with at least one guy putting it on backwards, another with something inside out, and a third guy licking a window in the background. Or at least that is my experience - new kit makes people lose 20-30 points on the IQ scale. The tactical rig/vest/web-gear/pouches that go over the armour are a different story entirely. A simple vest takes 2-5 minutes depending on what is loaded in it/pouch configuration to get it to rest properly. Modular "bib" chest rigs go on very easily (the few seconds to pull on and tighten) unless you went overboard on the side pouches. Web gear (the old US army model from Korea onwards) was 50/50, if you got it on right it was like a vest. Get it on wrong and you spend minutes untangling it. Interesting enough, the zipper model armour above worked best with vests as the vest could be kept attached to the armour so it was one thing to put on/take off. Shin/knee-pads might not be removable (some uniforms issued now include them in the pants/boots). I know I kept shin pads on at all times (when I wore them) because they were a pain to put on and I avoided wearing kneepads. The only thigh/groin armour I wore was always attached to the body armour, hanging down to cover the lower body. The last piece, the helmet is not worth mentioning. Much like my comment above, once you are used to wearing it, a second at most is all it takes. I have slapped on a helmet and goggles on in the time in takes to say "suit-up". You have a very diverse level of experienced people on the forum, if you showed a picture of the type you were referring to, you could probably get an exact answer.
  6. Very stylized to match an old fashioned map but still clear enough to read. I am sure your players will love it.
  7. I use a sewing pin with round plastic ball end. After using fine grit sandpaper/files to smooth the mold line of the ball it is my best smoother. The edge of the pin is straight and works for hard edges with the point good for detail work. I dip the pin in the water every two to three motions to keep it lubricated.
  8. If my spamming of the board wasn't a hint, I managed to get some brush time today. I quickly pushed through these wolves using nothing but wet-blending. I know the shadow hound is supposed to be used for transparency effects, but I think it looks look as a less super-natural more unnatural beastie. Tip for those who haven't learned it yet: if you let your base-coat/primer fully cure (2-3 days minimum) it won't rub off when you do wet-blending and heavy dry-brushing. These had been sitting for a couple weeks primed while the other projects today were not cured yet. Comments appreciated, rambling and more pics on my blog.
  9. A model I have been working on for a couple weeks finally got finished today. I really like the details on this model as you can see all sorts of viscera and there are bandages to try to stop it from further falling apart. Very characterful. Still undecided on the base yet, likely will get my cobblestone treatment. Comments appreciated. More pictures and rambling on my blog.
  10. So for the RPG campaign I am running, I decided to throw paint on one of my two otyughs to make the players hate me. A quick bit of wet-blending transitioning browns of various colours with blue eyes and purple tentacles because...well why not. Basing not finished yet and I am not sure what I want to do exactly. Any comments or criticisms appreciated. More pictures and rambling on my blog.
  11. Much better. I light the transitions even more when more visible. The mix of natural and artifical light can cause some issues. Try using indirect natural light or take pictures as night with artifical light.
  12. Very nice blending of the purple and black. my only criticism is the lighting...can you take a picture without harsh lighting?
  13. Very nicely done. The shadows on the crossbowman read very natural.
  14. Hey doll derry doll... that mini is great though very small
  15. I did a quick conversion for a player in an RPG game I am running. He wanted to play a Dragonborn paladin, and this was the closest mini to what he wanted. Before I painted it, I decided it needed the weapon swaps to match the character load-out and I also added on some plates to give him platemail. Fairly rough sculpting on my part, if you want to convert this guy, I recommend cutting off the arms at the shoulder-pads to give to access to do a good job. Anyhow, used green to highlight the black and spent only a couple hours painting him up. As he isn't sealed, it looks like a bit of paint rubbed off. I also added in the rest of the party as I know he is quite big and I haven't seen many scale comparisons. Any feedback appreciated. Looking at the big pictures I see I need to do a lot of touch-ups on the tabard, I really just mailed it in at that point.
  16. I managed to throw some paint around and get this guy finished as nameless mook number 3 for an evil overlord with an army. I really like this model, very characterful with plenty of options for conversion, so I may end up getting a couple more down the road. Any comments or advice appreciated.
  17. Been a very busy few weeks for me, so sadly not a lot of work to show. Here is the latest layers on the purple, getting closer to where I want it, and I am ready to start lightening the layers and do the gradual transition to read as transparent.
  18. Very nicely done. I just hope it doesn't migrate seasonally like the butterfly wings pattern suggests.
  19. I really like the gradual transitions that the iridiscent paint alternates between showing and hiding.
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