Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by hosercanadian

  1. I will recommend wood filler for the bad joins. Cut first, then apply. It even sands roughly like the foam. I used it on my bigger projects to blend in joins and cedar wood chip rocks. As price is a factor, it is also very cheap.


    Just make sure you get the non-shrinking kind...or it will dry smaller and pop out.


    As for gluing together I used hot glue and PVA for my hills. Works well with plenty of weight (much more than you put on - 50 lbs plus normally.

    • Like 3
  2. If you have ever seen Disney's Sword in the Stone, I think a small tower screams Wizard's Tower.  Merlin's tower was very small outside, and even smaller inside due to the stacks of books, over-laden book-shelves and assorted doo-dads.


    Now, to keep this a playable piece you don't want to lose all the floor space, so I would recommend a bit of clutter and/or shelf on only one wall section per floor.  You lose minimal space but it evokes a cluttered and full tower.


    As an example of some quick and dirty shelf dressing here are a few examples I did on my library module from my modular dungeon.  The scrolls are rolled strips of paper, the books wood with paper folded over to create a cover.  Splash on some paint and done.



    • Like 15
  3. Trick to help keep flock on the tiles: hairspray.


    Yes, hairspray.  Obviously not aerosol (as it may dissolve the Styrofoam).  I find a good "strong hold" or "bold" or other silly adjective meaning it keeps hair in place really good works the best.  Wait until the glue is dry, gently tap off the excess then mist with hairspray until it is damp.

    • Like 2
  4. The candelabras turned out very well.  The attention to detail there is your strength, as fiddly as some parts can be, try the techniques you used there on some of the people.


    Great start overall, looking forward to seeing you progress.

  5. You want to use a sheet of plastic and make sure you have some epoxy and tape to attach it.


    If you go to the Hirst Arts site, they have a good tutorial on how to add water to some of their tiles (including a modular sewer system).  Very simple step-by-step process.


    Works better than how I fumbled through it years ago.


    Big lesson I learned is to pour in stages, and very thin.  If you pour too much it stays hot in the middle and eventually melts the foam.  I had a complex swamp tile I did where I go lazy and poured the main water body all at once...and the ground started sagging and pink pits opened up near the shoreline.  Pretty much unsalvageable at that point.

    • Like 3
  6. A bit more colourful than I would choose but it evokes a quote from the old Steve Jackson OGRE:


    (paraphrased):  In the day of advanced sensors and optics, camouflage is about electronic signature and less about colour.  So if a 1000 ton AI warmachine decides it wants to be pink, you just decide on the right shade. 

    • Like 3
  7. I agree the shape isn't quite right but I will see how it plays out. It is too big for the short guys but too short for the big guys. So Juggernaut and Wolverine are both out. I have considered a short Sabretooth.


    I know the face will require quite a bit of work. The chin/jawline needs more work than the brow as the shape of the head cuts down to neck too sharply. On the otherhand, I will use this as an attempt at a new face technique. I have 8 heads WIP right now and several donors if I feel lazy.

    • Like 2
  8. I notice it has been a while since I last posted on Thor, so there are a few updates since last time.


    Boots roughly shaped out, first stage of his left hand is done, and the first stage of his face.


    I am trying to do Chris Hemsworth, although the nose is way off I think the eyes are nearly there.


    Anyhow, comments appreciated.  More rambling and pics on my blog, as usual...including the WIP for Mjolnir if you are interested in that.



    • Like 4
  • Create New...