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Guindyloo

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Everything posted by Guindyloo

  1. Guindyloo

    What Happened to the Pathfinder Range of Paints?

    That is totally a colour that I'll enjoy painting with! Thank you for restoring it to its proper name, I'll forgive Reaper and Paizo for misspelling Guindyloo, I suppose. Incidentally, it occurs to me that Grindylow may be why I have heard people insert an R into their pronunciation of my name from time to time.
  2. Guindyloo

    Summoning A Dragon bust

    That's the way to do it! Early and as stress free as you can manage! I "finished" (I have maybe an hour worth of work left to do) my Painters entry 3 months ago and now I'm using the remaining time to see if I can put anything together for any of the other categories. Much less stress to not leave it to the last minute! Last year I was repainting half of my Painters entry the night before we left for Texas because I'd "ruined" her (it really wasn't that dramatic, but you know how it goes ) and finished up my Diorama entry in the hotel room the night before the entry deadline. It was way too stressful so I swore I wasn't going to do that to myself again!
  3. I'm glad you like her, she's such a cute little (54mm) lady! I'm a big Ouroboros Miniatures fan. I don't think that they have a reseller stateside (they're in the Netherlands) but their official UK seller is Mr. Lee's.
  4. Guindyloo

    Summoning A Dragon bust

    You have been putting in a lot of care and work on this and it shows! The face paint is better than before - it looks a lot more delicate now. I love that you used your own skin as a real world reference and I think it was the right call, her skin looks more natural. Isn't it funny how adding a purpley white, of all things, can make skin actually look more realistic? That's a great example of why it's so important to try things and experiment because you can stumble upon something unexpected that you find works really well for you. Also, btw, I love her lipstick colour, it's a perfect nude lippie and I want it for myself. I think that your gut has been pulling you toward a blue glow for a while now, so I really think that's the direction you should go in. You feel more confident about how to approach it and in my own painting experience, I feel like it's always best to go with my gut. Even if it doesn't turn out, at least I've followed my own vision and I think that's really important when you're approaching something from an artistic viewpoint rather than a utilitarian one. We can paint gaming figures and armies all day long to the specifications of how they're supposed to look, but when you're making individual art, I think it's more important to follow your instincts. There's nothing wrong with wanting to paint something the same way that someone else painted it and even (or especially) without a tutorial, that can be a great way to learn different techniques and styles. But there's nothing quite like following your own vision. The only other thing that I would suggest is that it might be a good idea to paint the flames/dragon first so that you know for sure that works for what is really the first thing the viewer is going to see on this bust. If it were me, I would be concerned that I might paint in the OSL, love it, then go to paint the flames/dragon and end up not liking it and using different combinations of colours and therefore forcing the OSL to not work as a result. But if you have a plan of attack already in mind, go with that. Anyway, I think she's looking really great! Are you bringing her to Reapercon?
  5. Every year I give my mother a painted figure for Christmas. One year I also painted one for my father, but he didn't seem to care that much. My mother on the other hand, despite our lifelong strained and fractured relationship, has always been a supporter of my painting. The handiest pics are of this past Christmas' figure, but I can't figure out how to get them off of my instagram so I'll just link to the post there. https://www.instagram.com/p/BsEssTLHXvB/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet I had forgotten to take final pics, so the pics there were taken by my mother so they're simultaneously better quality pics than my usual cellphone nonsense, and yet worse simply because she's not used to taking pics of minis. But they'll have to do! 1. Scantily clad thicc ladies. I care about artistic gear and proportions in my art, not realistic ones, and the female form is my favourite canvas. 2. Anything with large enough eyes that I can paint in a lot of detail. 3. Nice, billowy cloaks are always a good time.
  6. Guindyloo

    ReaperCon 2019 Class Tickets Go Live June 8th!

    That should be Growtix's tagline.
  7. Unfortunately, it's generally only other artists who think it's important to support artists. People who don't know what kind of blood, sweat and tears go into creating something by hand have no context for the value of such things. That's why the laughable sentence "I could make it myself for cheaper" often gets uttered in such instances because they think that they know but they really don't. I'm reminded of sitting on the curb at the Venice Beach boardwalk with a "friend" under an artist's umbrella, petting his dog while he painted portraits, really good portraits of this "friend"'s dogs from pictures on her phone. I don't remember the exact price, but he charged something to the effect of $30 per portrait and had offered her a discount of $50 to do two portraits. She haggled him down to $40 for both even though $50 was literally nothing to her. We weren't friends after that trip and that particular instance was one of the reasons for that.
  8. Guindyloo

    Nocturna N-Paint & Fantasy Figures

    When they go to retail, if they sell them the same as their Vallejo branded paint sets, they are unlikely to break them up out of the sets. I obviously can't promise that they won't and I really wish that they would, but it's something to consider and maybe ask them about their future plans in the comments. If they plan on breaking them up, then you'd probably be better off waiting for retail to just pick up the paints that you're interested in. If they're not going to break them up, then you're just weighing whether you'd rather pick them up via KS at a possible discount (I didn't see if they said if they're discounted) or just at retail price. Yeah, as far as I know it's all the same. I should have said the same people who make Coat d'Arms rather than made by Coat d'Arms.
  9. Guindyloo

    Nocturna N-Paint & Fantasy Figures

    I'm tentatively in and it was this that sold me: "But the greatest quality of N-Paint is not in its physical characteristics, but in what it allows you to do chromatically. The mixes made by Jesús Martín, who created the colors of Vallejo Acrylics Fantasy Pro line, have exceeded expectations, achieving a balanced range of colors that will bring you closer both to Nocturna painting style and the extremes of the most radical painting you can think of." I'm a really big fan of Nocturna's current Vallejo Acrylics Fantasy Pro line, I use paints from those sets very often incorporated in with my other most used paints. They're really unique colours, well coordinated and really nice to work with. This part: "The N-Paint colors have been manufactured in the UK by the best modeling paint developers in the world, with more than 40 years of experience, authors of the most famous paints you have used during your life." Leads me to believe that these paints have been manufactured by Coat d'Arms, who previously made the original Citadel paints before GW started making their own. I have a bunch of Coat d'Arms paints and am pleased with them, so I'm pleased with that partnership. That would also explain why they went with those particular paint pots rather than dropper bottles.
  10. Guindyloo

    Places To Eat Near Reapercon

    Cane's is one of my favourite fast food places. Fortunately, they're local to me so while we hadn't meant to get any food at Reapercon that we can easily get here, we did still end up getting Cane's one night because it's just so good. If you go to Cheddar's, which I do recommend, make sure you get the Honey Butter Croissants. The closest Cheddar's here is an hour away, so I've been looking forward to getting those croissants again at Reapercon. @Doug Sundseth and @buglips*the*goblin - what was the Italian place we went to? The food was really good there and it wasn't too far of a drive, but definitely a drive. Ooh, I've always wanted to check out a Daiso Japan. But what I would most like is to go to a conveyor belt sushi place. Are there other dishes served there that aren't sushi for certain goblins that prefer their food to be cooked? Or will I need to make a Taco Bell run immediately afterwards?
  11. Yeah, it's a strange habit, holding my breath while I type. In space, no one can hear my keyboard scream.
  12. That's hardly even my largest post and usually they're solid walls of text.
  13. No, as a millennial, my number one hobby is ensuring that my smart phone is in my hand at all times. Joking aside, painting miniatures is definitely my number one hobby and beyond that I play video games, watch youtube and occasionally binge watch a show. Is this a riddle? Because I mean, obviously paint, right? I have not, but I'd be interested in trying it. I'm fairly certain that I have Reaper's elf ranger flat somewhere, but I doubt that I'll get around to it anytime soon. I have, yes, but only for specific ones. I have no interest in holding onto blister packs and in fact, I unbox blisters and transfer minis to baggies. But for the couple of Kingdom Death figures that I have managed to get painted so far, I have held onto the boxes. I might not always, we'll see if I get annoyed by empty boxes stacking up somewhere. Painting is hands down my favourite part. I hate prepping models, I especially hate working with green stuff, and basing is not even remotely my thing. I like the idea of elaborate scenic bases, but I don't have the patience for them, though I'm trying to get better about it. Although, at the same time I've also been working on busts and loving that partially because I don't have to make a base for a bust. I do not game, I never have and I'm not going to say that I definitely never will, but I don't have a ton of interest in it. I didn't know that "making army lists" was an aspect of the hobby, I guess if you enjoy making lists, idk, and no to creating dungeon maps as well. I have not and don't have a tremendous amount of interest in painting historical figures simply because my interests and style of painting trend toward the fantasy side. However, I have seen some historical busts, WWII related included, that I wouldn't be opposed to painting someday. I've bought a lot of little groups of minis that were intended for smaller projects like diorama ideas that I've never gotten around to. They're just boxed up with everything else. Some of them are grouped together in cases where I was feeling ambitious about "if I put these together then surely I'll get back to them..." but mostly the ideas have been lost to the sands of time and either the individual minis will get painted or they'll find their way to a new home. I've used some weathering from time to time. I believe for this guy I used Secret Weapon's rust colours. It feels like it's been a lifetime since I painted him. Related to above, I've also used dry pigments for giving some things a dry, dusty look. I don't have any pictures handy. I like pigments, I think they're handier for people who do a lot of vehicles and terrain, which I don't, but I really like how they look on bases. One thing to note is that they are VERY messy to use. No matter how careful you are, you will probably end up with pigment everywhere. Yes and no. I wouldn't mind one day selling miniatures that I've painted and I wouldn't mind doing the whole tutorial thing. That side interests me, I just don't have the time for it currently. However, I am not interested at all in not having a choice in what I paint, so I wouldn't want to do general commission painting. I would not do well with someone telling me what colours to use or wanting me to repaint something or anything where I would have to give up the rights to my own expression. Aside from that, I don't paint anywhere near fast enough for commission painting to be worth my while.
  14. Guindyloo

    First time at Reapercon

    There's a thread with more info about them here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/86313-reapercon-2019-ribbons/&page=1
  15. Guindyloo

    So... who's ready for ReaperCon 2019?

    You are trying very hard to lose your ice cream privileges, mister. Are you lactose intolerant?
  16. Based on my experience previously entering and subject to change this year because I am not an official source: That's supplied when you enter. They'll ask for your name, the manufacturer of the piece(s) and whatever name/title you would like to give it and they will put that information into their database and print out the barcode sticker and put that on the index card for you. You'll be given a receipt copy of the barcode that you'll present to pick up your piece. Then they take your piece (or pieces) and photograph it/them, then you're sent over to the display area to put your piece(s) in the applicable section. If you have additional information that you would like viewers and/or the judges to know about it, I would suggest bringing your own pen to write additional info on the index card or alternatively if it's more info than will fit, you can print up something ahead of time with info and/or pictures to accompany your piece.
  17. Guindyloo

    So... who's ready for ReaperCon 2019?

    Alternatively, you could dip people who don't take your class in molten metal. My blood is corrosive acid, so, do I even have a heart? I don't think anyone wants to find out. Better to just keep on pretending that I believe in friendship and kindness and whatever other nonsense it is that people like.
  18. Guindyloo

    So... who's ready for ReaperCon 2019?

    Well we're not monst....ok, we are, but we're relatively nice monsters. Relatively.
  19. Guindyloo

    So... who's ready for ReaperCon 2019?

    You're definitely walking the plank after you've finished your ice cream though, Doug. Fair is fair.
  20. I totally understand you being reluctant about it, that's why I said to just take it as a note for the future. Once a figure has had a frustrating "disaster" like that, it's very easy to become completely frustrated with the figure and either never finish it or strip it and I think it's more important to finish and keep moving than to revisit that frustration and have it sink in even deeper. Lining is an especially nerve wracking process without there being any other issues. So I absolutely think that it's the right choice to move on and try again in the future. Ah, no airbrush here. But I have experienced a lot of resin and plastic figures rejecting just primer by itself. Was it beading up? That's what happens to me and it makes no difference how much I scrub it with soap, some figures just act that way. The addition of the Brown Liner solves it for some reason though. Condolences on the sanitizer mishap - I definitely would've cried! If you're nervous about that, practice on paper or another surface first. If you're having a particularly shaky day, then put it off until your hands are feeling steadier. I have to put off finer details from time to time due to carpal tunnel issues. I don't blame you, that's a difficult thing to envision. I wasn't even imagining the proper shape, I thought it was more of a diamond. I tend to paint my leathers very worn so I'm not sure what the answer is for that shape. Hmmm...I'm trying to find a reference for us both but I'm coming up empty. I imagine that they made it that shape for it to be painted as a see-through glass mug. That wouldn't make it any easier though and I think that you should go with what you've envisioned. Someone else might have a much better suggestion than my "Idk, I'd just play around with it" unhelpfulness.
  21. I like this figure a lot and I think the work you've done on her is really smooth and lovely. I think your shading on the skin could go just a touch darker but just take that as a note for future models if you're having issues with the paint on the skin on this one as she looks nice as is and it would be better to leave her alone than cause a big problem. Likewise, lining between her skin and clothing would make things pop, but again, if you're having trouble it would be better to take it as a note for the future. I have always used Brown Liner on resin and plastic figures, however, I didn't like to start figures that have so much skin with such a dark undercoat, so now I typically mix in some of Reaper's white brush-on primer. The Brown Liner helps adhesion but the white primer turns it grey so that you're not starting off with such a dark undercoat and then I just play with the brown liner/white primer ratio so that I don't end up with the exact same tone as the resin itself. Eyebrows are typically naturally a bit darker than the main colour of the hair, yes, but that will definitely vary from person to person and whether their blonde was actually a colour they were born with. Also, most girls with lighter hair are using makeup to deepen the colour so that they're more defined on the face. In any case, you don't want to go any darker on the eyebrows than you have for the darkest shadow in the hair, otherwise it's going to look very harsh at this scale. I'd start there and if even that colour is too dark, you can go over it with the midtone you used for the hair. Mostly it'll depend on what material you mean for the mug to be made of. I assume you're not going for a metal or glass look but rather perhaps a leather mug from the colour that it is now. In that case I would highlight it consistently with how you've highlighted the boots. I would highlight the outer side that's a bit more raised a little lighter than the side that faces her. If you intend for it to be a newer polished leather, then I wouldn't pay any special attention to the edge that goes down the middle of it. If you want it to be a more worn leather, then as a part that juts out, it would get more wear than the smoother areas.
  22. Guindyloo

    Summoning A Dragon bust

    Testing directly in your well palette was a great idea! Incidentally, I'm working on a troll faery figure right now with a cool purple skin and while I've used a blue for the actual skin shading, there are scales on his back that I'm shading with green and then his wings feature a lot of MSP Mint Green, which is much brighter and a touch more blue than Phantom Glow, but they're definitely in the same family and all of those colours are working well together. However, if you're really tempted to go down the Phantom Glow route, definitely do more testing with it first because it might be a much harder sell as osl over the green cloak as it might start to look more like you're highlighting the green with it rather than casting light from something else. I worry that because Phantom Glow has a lot of green in it that it's going to be too close to the same colour family, whereas a more contrasting colour is an easier sell to differentiate that it's meant to be a light from another source. It'd definitely be worth testing though, it's a beautiful colour and you've got good instincts. I think it's always a good idea to explore any colour that suddenly speaks to you while you're working on something.
  23. Fun fact, I first started what is now the Reaper forum Google Hangout for the Memorial Day Paint Binge Challenge 2016. I accidentally on purpose lured in a Buglips and we've been happily driving each other crazier ever since.
  24. Guindyloo

    Summoning A Dragon bust

    Ok. Well I'm going to disagree with a lot of what was previously said. Most importantly, please note that you have NOT ruined your bust, it's not beyond hope by any means. It's just paint, it's not the end of the world if you didn't use the exact formula that someone else has found works for them. The answer is never not to try. The reason that experienced painters are experienced is because they have experienced things for themselves and found what does and does not work for them. Getting advice is great, tutorials are great, but at the end of the day, you need to put the paint on the model and experience things for yourself to get the experience, just like with anything else. Furthermore, there is no rulebook when it comes to painting. There is what works for some people and what doesn't work for some people. There are, indeed, "rules" regarding colour theory, composition and certain techniques, but these are still just guidelines and generally just based on personal experience, opinions and preferences. Do what works for you. You do not need to learn all about anything before attempting anything. If you're concerned about how one paint will look on top of another, then test it before you put it on the model. If you're interested in colour theory, it is definitely a great tool to have in your kit, especially as you progress in your own personal painting journey, but there is no theory or technique that you must master before you put paint on something. If what you're interested in is making sure that your bust adheres to colour theory, cool, refer to it and let that guide your choices. But there's nothing wrong with making a choice based on intuition or just something that you think will look cool. This is your hobby, your bust, your paintjob. Now, it seems to me that you never intended on a really drastic lighting situation like James Wappel's version of this bust since you selected different colours for her hair and eyes and lips. It's not a problem to not do something so dramatic as more subtle osl can look just as beautiful and convincing. So in this case you're going to have two different light sources. A neutral and somewhat ambient light source coming from above (I would position that coming from above and directly in front of her) and then the osl coming from the dragon fire (or dragon spell fire, idk, whatever you want to call it) so all you need to do is just stay consistent with that. The dragon spell fire is going to emit a ball of light and you just need to decide where that ends. I would do the back of her in darker colours, but not just completely blacked out since you have the upper light source that's going to throw a bit of ambient light. I like the freehand detail that you've put on her face and, in my opinion, that is not going to complicate things any more than having red lips, red hair and a green cloak complicates things. If you were to do a very complicated and intricate freehand pattern that required a lot of really close detail work in the first place, then yeah, that'd be a little bit of a nightmare to take the plunge to do osl on top of that and get it to look right. That doesn't mean it's not possible, it's just a lot more work and with experience, you tend to learn what battles you want to fight and what you don't. Realistically, you're probably looking at some trial and error here. There's nothing wrong with that. That's how we learn and, in my opinion, that's half the fun of painting is figuring that kind of stuff out. So what I would probably do here is just dive in with a glaze. Now I'm very comfortable with glazes because I've had a lot of experience with them. You might not be so that might be a frustrating path for you. Whatever colour you pick might not play well with the colours you've already put down. You might put down too strong of a glaze and have to scale things back. These things are all fine, they're all learning experiences. If you're a little less stubborn than I am, then you might consider getting a sacrificial Bones model to practice the same colours on to do some quick tests or if you have some thick paper like watercolour paper you can try that as well. Sometimes I test colours out right on the back of my hand just as a quick way to see if they're going to play nicely together. I did a very quick and super crude mockup of how I would approach the osl based on what you've already painted. Hopefully this gets the point across as I'm honestly not sure just how crude this is going to be as I'm on my 4th day of a migraine and have my monitor brightness literally set to 0%, so hopefully this is useful in some way. I chose purple because I thought it would work the best with your existing colour scheme and incidentally, colour theory would back me up there, but you can obviously choose whatever colour looks good to you and works with the vision that you have in your head.If you go in the purple direction, it's going to depend on the individual paints you use as to what approach (ie. glazing or mixing paints to layer) will work best for you, especially with the green as that has the potential to become a bit murky. I would either use the suggestions I made above and test things out on a Bones figure or paper or test things out directly on her stomach where most of the surface area is going to be hidden by the dragon spell fire itself anyway, in case of any mishaps. The areas closest to the lightsource itself are going to be the most intensely and brightly coloured and the further away from the source you get, the lighter the intensity should be. I think that on the face you can likely (but not 100% certain) achieve this with a really light/thin glaze that just barely tints things one brush stroke at a time. Take it easy and slow and start in the area that's going to get the most intense colour (ie. under the chin) so that if it's too intense to start, you can scale it back. Flipping the figure upside down will help you to map out what areas would receive the most intense concentration of light, as well as more reflective surfaces - like the eyes will reflect that light really intensely even though the eyes are further away than the nose because skin is not as reflective as eyes. I would reflect it more intensely on the hair than I did in the above example as well, as hair is also a very reflective surface. As you can hopefully see though, we can still capture a perfectly fine osl look despite the freehand on the face, you just need to find the right balance. As long as you're not going too intense, you don't have to disrupt the freehand very much and a light glaze over it and the skin should work out just fine. The good news is, as the person painting it, you are in complete control of how intense the light is - the important part is to remain consistent. Also important to note, the placement of the intense light will probably vary from my example because of the actual placement of the dragon spell fire. I think I probably placed it a little too low on her chest. The way that you paint the dragon will also obviously affect the intensity of the light. I didn't do a mock up of that, but I wouldn't paint the entire little dragon as the lightsource like James Wappel did, I would paint only the fire part as the lightsource. The lightsource itself will have the most intense colours and also go much brighter than any reflection you put on the lady but since you're going for less of an intense glow, you don't want to use too much white so that we can temper the eye's expectation of how bright the light is meant to be. Play around with it, most importantly have fun with it and don't give up. You're doing just fine.
  25. That's a nice twist of fate that you were assigned to my box then! I'm glad I went back and looked through a couple of the expansions to put things in the box. They're cool models, but not my thing painting-wise. Glad to see them go to someone so happy to receive them.
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